What was the "insider" rumour "Pinball Brothers Alien" all about? ... a few weeks ago. I never heard the specifics.

Correct

For more info read here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/balls-and-magnetism

You want standard pinballs, (carbon steel).

"Bling Balls" might be nice and shiney for those whom like shiney things, such as Magpies, but I would never put that junk in any of my machines.

Wow that doesn't look good. If that is flaking chrome plate, that stuff is sharp and it slices like a knife! ... If they are pitts then replacment was overdue.

Oh Wow, really? ... those are the New balls?? .... if so they are not suitable for pinball, send them back!

I was assuming they were the crapped out balls that came out and chucked in the packaging.... sorry.

That's shocking!

BCPrecision huh? .... looks like about the standard I'd expect from B.C. (Before Christ)

Look for "precision carbon steel balls" in the part description. I notice the part description there is missing the word "precision". "Mirror" or "polished" as well... but the "precision" would indicate they are suitable for ball race bearings and so not permitted to have such manufacturing surface defects. Reject ball bearings get sold as cheap pinballs by some, it seems. Oils ain't just oils, Balls ain't just balls.

You want the term "precision" in the title/description. Also "Carbon Steel", along with "mirror finish" or "polished". Avoid the term "pinball" being in the description (this only suggestts they are Reject industrial ball bearings).

They are separate items. Not sure how easy to remove playfield lens though.

Here too! ... everyone's bought up all the stocks and put them in the cupboard.

You cant install an .iso to a drive that the OS is currently operating on.

To install the .iso onto the PC on board SSD, I put a Bootable USB with Ubuntu OS on it. Put that directly into the PC motherboard. When the PC is rebooted it should give you the option to boot from the USB drive, using keypress. There are directions on the source website regarding the required commands to apply the ISO. Also put the USB with the ISO directly into motherboard slot. Hubs for Keyboard and mouse if necesary.

Those mini warning lights are cool!

Most orange flashing lights I notice in the film are mounted to the celings and point downward.

How do you think it would look if they were mounted to something overhanging, so that they point downwards? ... I think if this shed the right amount of light onto the playfield features, in the right locations, it could create a really awesome effect! . Instead of flashing in your face they more splash the effect across the playfield?

I'd be in for a set!

Shouldn't it be more like 2mm? ... 1mm SS plate is a bit flimsy. I think the thinnest I've seen knocker brackets would be 1/16" (about 1.5mm)

Just that 1mm sounds too thin to me?

Only thing puts me off Sterns of the last handful of years is the apawling "cheap" feel/build quality/cut corners. Alien is a very solid game compared to stern effort. No comparison in my book.

"Oh they aren't plug and play"... well, name any pinball that had a prototype identical to the production?. Late run Alien are as reliable as anything else out of the box these days. Its just that the production never came into full swing. All we needed with the SE we had was the metal gear servo to be installed. Stellar game!

JP2 looks like a fun game though. Might even buy a premium for a fairer price in a couple of years, after the hype is passed.

Please put me down for two of these!

I could get my guy across the road to do them, for us in Oz. Obviously you have the dimensions recorded? ... I could strip and measure a local game, but if you've already done that...

Thanks! ... that's awesome

Metric is the standard here now, so all good! . BS and AF are more like redundant legacy here these days, only used for stuff like pinball, most tyres/industrial belts, and old industrial plant... historic stuff like cars etc as well. The fun of being in engineering in Oz, when doing stuff like screwcutting or other bespoke work on mismatching equipment, having to be apt and well practiced at converting between Metric and umpteen variations of Imperial! ... in your head on the fly Lol

We have lots of imperial history from both Brit and US, mix that with Metric now being standard = pita

I'm fully stoked it is in metric!

Looking at the dimensions of things it appears many are very Imperial-ish... I think DE#535-5203-03 measures up pretty close apart from the slotted hole spacing of 11.3mm (which I equate roughly to 7/16") on your bracket drawing, where the DE part is 3/8" (about 9.8mm). Maybe new brackets could use this slotted hole spacing so that this part could be used? . The plunger centre height seems about 0.3mm shorter than your drawn frame centre height, but this is rather close.

Also thinking, if the retainers crack down the track (as they can eventually on other games), does this mean there would be no bolt in replacment available for the launchers either? .... maybe it would be worth making some for both uses if the same part is not already available off the shelf. Curious if it isn't an off the shelf common item not directly associated with a specific manufacturer, like the DE/SEGA "homebrew" pop bumpers that the game uses?. Might just be something a little harder to sift out from the interweb?

Or, if the slots were made 0.6mm wider, towards each other on the inner sides, then both could fit.... ? hmmmm

I have wondered about this myself... thought it seems possible the board may have originally been intended to mount under the xeno head, local to tounge rack. ? ...

You are having a pretty bad run aren't you. There is a ball serve update to make the balls come out reliably, I think it was in one of the other threads... involves a small post and trimming the lane protector plate. Another helpful fix was to put the fuzzy side of vecro on shooter lane wall to prevent balls bouncing back into ball serve.

Seems local games here haven't been having anywhere near the degree of issues you're describing. Maybe it's just that we recieved all late run SE games in our container, or perhaps blind luck... who knows.

I hope it all comes good for you there!

These look pretty sweet! ... how many of these are you planning on having produced?

Been considering that it might be just as straightforward to have your guys make them (since the look very professional and clearly have great equipment) ... would order a bulk lot for the locals and split up the freight. We would go 6x between us.

Great work you are doing there!

Is there any chance these would also be able to be tweaked to solve the shooter lane coil, instead of using packing etc. ?

Indeed, but my guy across the road has no laser cutter, he would send off to the big smoke for that, or probably just cut by hand in the end anyway.... but seems like you have one stop shop right there. Either way would be cost effective as the other. Just thought if you planned to make a few it would be just as straight forward to order a couple of yours and pay shipping. I already downloaded your .pdf from the page before. Just having these dimensions/drawings is great anyway, Thank you!

+1 here too!

Does anyone know where to get a PETG plastic set for Alien?

TomDK is all out of sets. So is Daniel, and not likely to be getting more he says. Are there any other sources?

Trade off is the belts perish in time.

Can also connect two in series, this would be efficient.

Try looking through the "Weland Yutani" thread on saving 3 aliens, and the "Heighway support thread"... alot less to wade through there..

Sounds like a few possibilities from my understanding:

I/o Board hardware version?

I/O Firmware version?

USB cable integrity/quality

...maybe some other possible causes too.

As far as I know the tone (beep) that comes with the left flipper press is a design/allocation shortcoming. Architecture used, the allocation of it, allows audio interference from left flipper press. The chanels/devices used were somehow not assigned optimally, would require major code work (at least) to eliminate the cause of it.

Good quality Shielded USB cables is one of the improvements.

I would be very keen for this also if available in PETG!

If you find someone willing to produce more PETG plastic sets, count me in as a number... I have hunted high and low, all sources seem to be out of stock. We're down for two sets here if/when they are run again!

Looking for PETG plastic set if anyone has them or knows where to buy.

Went out the window 14 hours ago here!

Yes

Remember when installing new USB cables, very important to execute good strain relief, retention, and cable management.

Secure cables just back from the connector, so that the connector can not come out, and in a way so that the connector is not under strain.

Also run cables, retained, and away from interference sources as much as possible.

Good example a little way back, where the USB cable running around the sound amplifier seemed to cause the game to malfunction.

*Also agree that the drop coil sleeve is installed backwards.

I agree.

Keep in mind the tips all still apply. The strain relief is also about protecting the board and socket. Some cases these have come away from the actual board. Of course a badly attached socket is a fault, but still everything that can be done for "insurance" is surely a good idea.

It's a great game, so it's worth it!

USB is one of the big "heels" of the system, do the cable managment of course ... but it is a good idea, I think, to do everything you can as well, including better quality cables (fitted with care).

+1

I've been hunting, asking and searching the planet... for nearly a year....

I wonder can the Eddy sensor be pulled out from the board socket a little maybe? ... allowing it to sit slightly closer up toward the playfield in the recess (and in this way perhaps giving slightly longer activated duration)

Also I think it might have been TimeBandit developed a version with a trim pot. ?

Lol

Seems alot of these people are referring to a Heighway Alien not being remade, emphatically... which is probably a fair call. It is possible they are mostly owners and want to see the game they own continue to be rare, among numerous other possible reasons. It is a good game to play when it is working, so makes sense to continue production. May not be possible though.

A well manufactured and designed (ground up) Aliens would sell like hotcakes, if the price is right.

If it turns out to be the upcoming CGC/Spooky/Heck title, then it won't be seen at TPF. Later in the year possibly, or 2021.

Seems to me the only scenario where "Aliens" could be at TPF is if Deeproot has been working on something with Pinball Brothers... (or on their own)

Even if the codename for AP Aliens is "Hot Wheels" Lol ... AP surely doesn't have it ready for TPF with what they are up to atm. It would be the kind of thing they need, but doesn't seem they'd be in a position to bring it just right now..... ?

No one man knows everything, though.

I'd agree that the coil position could be optimised. The VUK assembly could be improved alot as well. For some time I have been pondering this, and do have some ideas but none on paper so far.

Basically have a pseudo "trough" (no switches) in the bottom of the assembly so that balls can settle horizontally and the VUK only ever needs to shoot out one ball at a time...

2020-03-10 17.31.57.png

There is a Very rough and ready improvised digital sketch of the direction I was thinking...

I did draw the baffle plate a bit too long there, vision it extending 5-10mm past the scoop hole, enough to prevent two balls heading up and trying to fit out of the scoop simultaneously and getting wedged or causing damage. The "baffle" could also incorporate above it some kind of mantis style hole edge protector. Filling the place of the top part of the plastic insert, in a way.

The yet to be determined angle of the "trough" would be critical. With one ball on the VUK against the back face, another ball on top of it will always roll off because the back face leans forward at the same angle as the pitch of the playfield. A protector "baffle" plate would be needed to protect the underside of the playfield, for when the coil fires and a second ball is partly rolled off.

Will probably just be making this off-hand sometime, and see how it goes.

A couple of times the airlock hicups happened to us, every time there were 3 balls in there. Happens very rarely. Still.

+99% of the time the Airlock works great even with two balls in there. Scoop has insert.

It's a one percenter...

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair

The ball should not push the switch skirt down that far ? (unless the switch doesn't work or the coil doesn't fire)

Does it get stuck like that from the ball during gameplay? ... or only when you press it down past normal with your finger?

I probably have to install one on my mates machine while lockdown is happening. Haven't seen the item yet, but don't see an issue in the pics there at all, really ... ?

Is "very close" too close? .... if gap is too small, the switch may not be opening every time. The coil will not fire if the switch is already closed at rest (sometimes, hence 9 out of 10). Maybe the gap needs to be slightly wider, and/or , spoon not centralised with the pin.

I see the stuck down skirt in the picture. The blue ring should never get pushed down that far by the ball, is what I mean.

I can only see any issue if the pop bumber isn't firing... but that would mean a bumper issue to me, not the protectors problem.

Yep, and if there is any possibility the game has "Super Jets" or "Ninjas" (or any other plated ball) installed, you wanna get that junk outa there, Immediately!

Except if they are plated balls which magnetise Very easily.

If you want to mimic output of the "Lock" insert: Could be done with an optical gate (transistor) or a LDR (light dependant resistor) in a basic circuit. This would "detect" the light being on, providing a signal that can be used to control a relay (or similar) for any voltage supply you desire.

Actually... isn't there a kit in this thread already, for this actual purpose?

I'd be down for the 3 bed camber setup!

Indeed the light driver mod I seen here was based on switches, not LEDs.

The Sensor would need to go in the gap between LED and the insert, so that it can activate at a distinct threshold as the lock insert is lit. It can be remote (wires) from any circuit board.

It's broken.

Where it has that rough shape on the end, it once was a hole in the shaft for the retaining pin. It looks like the plastic end of the plunger (the post) from your up post/diverter in the top of the orbit.

The other piece is probably still in the end of the metal plunger. Only difference with gameplay would be shooting for eggs in the lifecycle and the ball goes all the way around, instead of diverting to pops.

You should be able to see without taking the glass off. Usually the up post top face will sit flush with the playfield. Look at the playfield ball runway in the orbit, where that broken part pokes up from you should see a void instead of the top of a post.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-a-17767.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-04-10291.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-02-4668.html

With a little homework and/or a phonecall to Margaret (or pm to Scott), I am certain you will find one of these is the exact same part.

Never had that happen? ..... maybe never played so much (and give an up post such a smashing) before Alien came to be!?

I would start with those 3 links I put there, I'll put my bottom dollar on one of those. They are all the same aside from lengths.

JB weld may work, likely outcome is that it will eventually come astray again though. They are getting bashed sideways, and take some stress down inside there, on that skinny bit of shaft and pinhole.

Some kind of adhesive when installing again, to fill the clearance, may help prevent a new one frome breaking in the same way again.

*Heighway used a mix of component sources from what I've noticed. Many from the "homebrew" catalogue. Alot of Bally/Williams spec stuff, mixed with other such as DE/SEGA pops. My bet one of those B/W plungers listed can be a direct replacment.

A little smaller maybe?

Instructions/pricing?

Would look cool though!

Myself.... and a number of others afaik

Perhaps most are never going to see public use, but that is not "all". They were still intended to be commercial machines, I believe.

Also, the game is too great to keep locked away for only a few to experience

Mine will be used for tournaments as well as the "good" public locations. Definately gunna be glad to have those PETG plastics when it does go out mate!

Is fine though, if the remade apron ends up with no card slots, I am in a position to make my own.

I'm fortunate to have a couple of pretty respectful/appreciative locations. Not all have caring patrons though, so a rare game will only go to "good" places. Also I'm relatively rural, my games at home get played almost as much as when they are on locations Lol.

I am amassing parts like best USB and other upgrades, haven't had major problems so far but Alien is in the hypersleep chamber, for now anyway.... I intend to go all "Averell" on it's arse in the near future...

It's not going out before I have all updates/upgrades in place, have very good reliability, the PF protector is on it.... and somewhere appropriate to put a pricing card

Can be as big or small as desired really. DE/SEGA cards were relatively small.... Gottlieb had some bigger sizes.

Can put something on the factory apron of course... but it only would look "tacked on". Even just one, on one side would be suficient... home use can just have instructions there. Lots of instructions to list though, I agree with Averells WPC ideas. 2 cards. My 2 bobs worth lol

In the past week I have recieved the clear speaker panel sets you sent, thank you! ... and, a couple of days ago our shipment of open eggs finally arrived here from US as well. They should not be too far away...

How did it go from 13k to 14k?

On his thread here in pinside, yes it is coming. Also Twin RGB sling standups, and eddy switches.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ramp-lighting-in-your-face-st-pro-brought-to-lifevideo/page/44#post-5661397

WIP ..... he's sorting some "total lightshow" stuff first from the sounds. I found a link and put in the previous post.

I'm planning to get some EL panels happening in there myself. The light from the side art seems to make quite a difference, even the back panel illuminating the very top.

Looking is good but sometimes reading is required...

"Most of the Inverters have a choice of power input. This can be mains electricity (UK, US or Euro plugs) or 12V input."

I don't see "Australian" listed (240vac @ 50hz), but that isn't a major problem either since I can simply cut off the non-compatible UK plug (still UK has essentially the same Mains Supply specs), and wire directly to fused AC mains power inside the machine.

Alot of these (most) have an input range of 110-250v and 50-60hz, making them universal.

There is a better than average chance you'd still be able to cut the plug off and hard wired to the game.

Do you have the specs of the particular inverter, or model number?

My planned approach is to install an easily removed plexiglass baffle.

The baffle would extend the Full Width of the cabinet internal, and to the back wall, essentially sealed without gap. The front edge finishes at about the Cabinet I/O board just behind the cashbox.

The baffle sits as low as physically possible, and forces the air path over the cabinet heat sources. The air then does a 180 at the end of the baffle, moves back to the rear of the cabinet taking disipated heat with it, up and out of the backbox with the help of the convection.

The added bonus of this I thought would be like a catch nappy for stray turd screws or hardware that might come astray and fall down. With a slight gradient down to the front, then screws and stuff would also tend toward the front of the cabinet. Bonus. Obviously needs to be easily removed.

But, having seen this solution here, it is more straightforward, and is effective. I like it!

In dealing with the "air wall", and with the resulting increase in heat dissipation, I see that as intensifying convection, and therefore flow with that.

As long as warming air is not required to flow Downward, I don't think it would be much different than your ducts for flow overall, but possibly the overall dissapation and therefore convection may be less with my setup due to being less directed at the heat sources.

The tubes you have used will certainly provide greater resistance to Flow than just a plexi sheet, but they do have the ability to direct the air Onto the hot zones. It seems these ideas may be around equaly effective, just with subltle differences in the end.

Your setup will be more straightforward and less invasive to install. My setup will require at least Some screwing but might seem more "oem", and can catch loose falling hardware... it may be one of those personal preference things, in the end.

Both seem to be good viable solutions. If the plan I made does get implimented, I'll be sure to do some testing and post in here with the results.

* MU/TH/UR !

6000

That computer built in, within the machine there.... with Ducts, running either side of it!!?

One of the bits mentioned that doesn't work in 1.3.

There was an assignment balls up where the left flipper and sling were each prescribed the unintended different style of coil control for each other. It is this that causes the "beep" while holding Left Flipper. The setting is to swap Left Flipper and Sling devices to solve the squeal, which is from driving the flipper through components intended only for the sling. It is caused by Flipper Hold Pulse Width Managment operating through a non noise protected control circuit. Requires swapping wires as well... but doesn't quite work yet anyway. Corrects the assignment balls up and resulting squealing noise, when finished.

ie. if you were to activate this without re-wiring, Left button would then fire sling, and Left sling switch would fire flipper.

From the questions I asked, this game is in fact ALE#350, only with a different plastic plaque to put on the front. None of the other labels are provided to go with it... which is not quite what I assumed the ad was saying.

Could anyone be certain what is actually inside the unopened box, as well? .... It could be super rare Blue, even though it was shipped as green? ... that could actually be a kinda cool surprise!

Hate to be a stickler meeseeks, but since the thing has got all rolling now, might as well follow through!!

My mate had a bit of trouble way back, as well, although the whole thing is a bit grey and causes confused discussion since it seems to be the case that "Mother" is used as a written nickname for the AI Lol . As it is with the Insert on the Playfield.

Here is a Video of us playing some earliest games after getting the Aliens... Notice Rocket Pointing Out each letter when Mother is being awarded! Ha ha

So now there is need to have another go at updating postie for "accuracy sake"!

Lol ... soz

My silly getting off track appears to have Added confusion.... the bit I was looking at was actually only the "/ER" instead of "/UR" in mu/th/ur.

I guess.... things come in threes Lol

Love that sequence though... such a great game! .... even greater in the right setting!

I've seen a solution someone had for this, but can't find where ... it was a year or two ago.

williams green translucent 3-D retangular target (resized).jpg

It was a plastic (3dprinted) shim with edge lips both sides, on both sides. Fitted in between it maintained vertical alignment, to combat this very issue. I think maybe the stack ended up bolted together.

That is another option.... just lose the rivets, and try bolts, using a bit more tension than the rivets can provide.

Yep something like that!!

https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-green-transparent-standup-target-3-ddeep-rectangle.html

I believe Heighway just used that Whitewater part.

Possibly why they are aplenty again, perhaps?. Couldn't get hold of them so easily there a while back, either. Was that because they were populating Alien playfields?

RIP or URIP (Unofficial Ripley edition)

Or "KIT" for kit games.

Are the capacitors too large? . Are the wires from the 70v power supply upgraded?

I put this up in the other thread as well

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812372400.html

I believe this is the updated 70v psu. (oem?)

Upgrade the buss wiring for 70v to a heavier guage, if it has not been done already..

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000816881141.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.644af23eYOH3cH&algo_pvid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022&algo_expid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022-3&btsid=0ab6f82215946062214358804e3b21&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Would 21A be enough juice for you?

H57c4622962ed4f129e3a24c77c18c18fN (resized).jpg

I've been considering....

There is a sea of options ...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2039198445.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.644af23eYOH3cH&algo_pvid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022&algo_expid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022-25&btsid=0ab6f82215946062214358804e3b21&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

I would think most are just wiring the mini beacons to the same power control as the main beacons? (12v in parallel)... so that they operate together. There should be plenty of circuit capacity on the solenoid drive that controls the beacons for a couple of comparatively Very low power demand LED arrays (the mini beacons) to be safely connected.

You *could* connect pairs of mini beacons in Series, to simply utilise the main beacons controlled power. Each would then have 6v across it. 8v is a rather odd voltage for them to require?. They will work across a voltage "range" of some degree. 6volts should get "8volt?" led mini beacons lit up, I would think.

Yep put me down!

PM away!

My view is that Some mods need Switch activation, but others are much better activated with Inserts activity.

The switches seems to be sorted out here thanks to Felix (some of those here please!)... but all it still needs for a fantastic kit, is the LDR/optic sensor switch to run from an Insert, and activate the beacons on the specific ramp! . 3x Switch + 3x LDR in the kit.

Why can't you use an opto-couple? ... decouple the led from any electical connection at all and just run from the light source? . This would be most prefered for the system, surely?

I was about to pull the trigger and pay to purchase this, having an invoice and all, last minute I discovered it is really 350 only and there are no serial numbers for 426, just the piece of plastic. Lost in translation I guess, but build #426 was a Main Driver for me, so I had to pull out given All the info. The point is that my questions were answered, Kenneth was straight down the line and good to deal with, but the particular game just wasn't for me. Also a premium price, and with no significant spares. I digress.

Also it was (supposedly?) green trim... I too prefer the black SE look, including the Egg art over the Alien on the backbox, I'll just stay with that.

Later the physical knocker was deleted. To me that is One Thing Every Pin Needs.

For mine I chose neither of those.

Playfield Protector is definately the best way to go I think, providing one can handle the installation job.

https://www.playfield-protectors.net/products/alien-2017-highway-all-versions

1245_540x.jpg

The playfield protector also makes some cliffys redundant, such as one for the magnet. Just adjust the magnet core height to suit the protector.

Actual Acid!? .... .......

Can it be CNC milled?

If it's an option I would prefer not to have acid burn holes as well. The "Alien" in the middle I prefer to the Weyland-Yutani logo. Like the acid burn, I feel like there is enough of it in the game already.

No acid and "ALIEN" will look clean and finished. Factory (but not using temp cheap plastic kinda factory). I am also going to need somewhere for pricing/instruction cards, but I guess that can be sorted with or without providence.

img_4146 (resized).jpg

I'm thinking of these covers... but the price!

Either way, I'm going to mount the beacons inverse, pointing downward, so that the light is shed more across the playfieild than upward.

If switches must be replaced, opto gates would be far superior to mechanical switches. I have a teardown in my future, and a spare p/f ... I've though of recessing the switch slightly further into the playfield, just the smaller diameter nub part. To leave only max 3mm or so of playfield thickness for that 12mm dia spot. Undecided. Converting to opto switches would be most reliable I think.

That looks cool!

Like on Mr Squiggle though... upside down!

The plastic gear inside the servo is stripped. It is trying to get the internal pot to it's desired position and just keeps homing but because the gear is stripped can never achieve the set position (in this case jaw closed).

This is why the servo motor stops "chasing" when you manually lift the jaw closed to the position the software is trying for. Stripped gear just doesn't let it happen, so servo is stuck trying to move to a physical position, keeps trying till it gets there, but never does (unless you help it).

I believe so. It is a bit of a fidly job to change, remove the head from the playfield. The servo body just bolts into the lower frame. Can take a bit of tweaking/adjustment to get the jaw positions right, but it's not too bad.

On Friday I received a new (to me) Alien, SE#65

Collected from the customs depot... and glad to have it in one piece, no forklift tynes through the side thank goodness!

20201018_120034 (resized).jpg

Very impressed with EL side blades! . Some Xeno work to do, but was aware of that.

I don't quite get why, but the main score always shows Zero? ... scores still come up in player positions, but... yeah. Maybe corrupt code somehow? . There is also some odd lighting behaviour, like other than hardware/firmware... ?

20201018_123717 (resized).jpg

Code version says: V1.4B2

Biggest issue would be that I'm going to have to work out what to do with the pretty badly damaged window frame, which was obviously bent by strapping across it to the pallet with some amount of skewed tension, and so bent in shipping with the cargo movement/kinetics.

20201018_115214_2 (resized).jpg

It's more than 1/4" bend, I don't think I'll be able to straighten it without cracking the coating .

Might look at getting one made from stainless steel maybe.

Is there an easy link to information on serial RGB assignments/strings, for troubleshooting LED inset problems/faults??

I thought Averell had included something in his great game instructions, but maybe not or I don't have the newest version?

Found it!

Excellent info! ... thank you very much!

Question: That link takes me to a page that gives me a .upd file? ... which I assume is an "update" rather than an "image"?

Should I be locating an Image file? ... or should I be trying to apply this update?

I have installed images before, so that is no problem if recommended, and if I have access to an image or .iso file.

Or, would the linked "final" code update include these video updates from 1.3 as well as game?