Quoted from TomDK:

Ask for whatever you payed, that would be fair. I am sure all parts will be sold soon.

Quoted from Jvspin:

I'd say ball park of about $2000 to $2500.

Quoted from Jvspin:

Note, that estimate was for the original cost which may be different than their worth.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Congrats and welcome to Alienland!!
As with any club thread, you'll be able to decern pretty quick the valuable info vs. silliness contained here.
Alien has a long, and unpleasant history at certain points (stated as a week 1 adoptor). I distance myself from commenting on certain posters intents, opinions, or statements (though some are 100% spot on) as it doesn't help the community. If you've been in here long enough, you know exactly what is going on. You learn to bite your tongue and move on, as there are also some amazing people who have contributed in large part to keeping these games whole, original state, and living.
Keep your stash of parts - you may never need most of them, but they retain value for those that have different versions of the game. Highly recommend putting on the ENTIRE set of PETG plastics however...very important. If you ever decide to sell any parts, I'd suggest identifying Pinsiders that are truly vested in the game and plan on keeping it. You will still get top dollar, and not contribute to the growing culture of FS ads "works 100%", knowing full well it was cobbled from parts. Just my take.
Alien is a one of a kind, amazing game, that deserved a company to see it through. Didn't happen, but it got close enough that the final run of games were (are) mostly trouble free.
Enjoy!!!!....mark

Quoted from MK6PIN:

I'd listen to it first...best fidelity of any game I own ...bass shakes machine already

Quoted from MK6PIN:

You can clip on to the cabinet sub to an external sub if you'd like at your own risk . This game has a nice drive system already.
Adding the sub will certainly create massive bottom end...enjoy!!

Quoted from manadams:

All of my flippers died during ambush multiball and looks like all coils in test are not working. Coils will just barely move in test. I re-seated all usb cables and looks like some have been upgraded but not all. Here is a video of driver board and farthest transistor to right is blinking if that means anything. Any ideas what the problem might be?

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Not sure where you are measuring, but be careful please!!
"Big" supply is a switching 70vdc output
"Small" supply is a switching 12vdc output
"L" and "N" is 115v AC in the US. That will light you up, so suggest you avoid those.
just put your DMM on DC voltage - red to +, black to -. You can read the voltage, amperage, etc. on the sticker on the side of each unit....thinking you might have your meter setting wrong....

Quoted from manadams:

Meter is set to DC voltage. On the Big supply I am measuring +60v on each red/white stripe wire to ground, is that too low for the 70v system? The small supply I get +6.23v on each of the yellow wires to ground, I'm guessing that they are added together for the 12v.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Just measure + to - at the supply. Black and yellow give you 12v, red white strip to green for 70v.
Silly question ( which I forgot to ask other guy w flipper problems) are both voltage selector switches set at 115v? ( PS and driver board)...I'm sure you'll get it...

Quoted from manadams:

All of my flippers died during ambush multiball and looks like all coils in test are not working. Coils will just barely move in test. I re-seated all usb cables and looks like some have been upgraded but not all. Here is a video of driver board and farthest transistor to right is blinking if that means anything. Any ideas what the problem might be?

Quoted from Vimtoman:

I was having issues with the inserts on my machine and found that the IO connector on the main led pcb was riddled with dry joints.
As the coils also attach to this pcb maybe take it out and resolder all connection on the led pcb.

Quoted from Jvspin:

I usually like to start troubleshooting at the point of the problem and work backwards. For example, start at the non-functioning or partially functioning coil.
In your case where coils driven by multiple I/O boards are not working but some are, I suspect the problem is a blown fuse or lies in the connections between the power supply board and the I/O boards. It's also possible there is more than one problem.
Have you checked the fuses on the Power board (board in the bottom of the cabinet)? If not, remove the cover and check that all the leds are on.

Quoted from Jvspin:

I just took a look at my machine, as I haven't had to do any electronic troubleshooting yet on a Heighway game. The first thing I noticed is there is no common ground like a ground braid, running throughout the machine. This makes it difficult to connect the (-) probe of your meter to measure individual voltages. To fix this, I added a wire to a ground point on the I/O board of the coil I wanted to check. Note, I checked that the gound of the board I was looking at was connected to the ground of a different I/O board so you only need to connect the (-) terminal of your meter to one ground point for all measurements.
[quoted image]
If you don't want to add a wire, you can also pick up ground at pin2 on the THROUGHPOWER connector. If you do this, I would recommend clipping pin1 or putting some electrical tape around it to keep from accidentally shorting it to ground.
[quoted image]
Back to the coil problem. Although I doubt you have an individual coil problem, here is some general information on how to troubleshoot a coil issue. Excuse me if you already know this as it may help someone else.
Coil operation: 70V (purple wire) always on when the coin door is closed (both terminals of the coil should measure 70V). Control line of the coil momentarily pulled to ground when the coil is activated.
I can think of the following reasons why a coil won't work correctly:
1 )70V power not getting to the coil.
a. broken or poor connection from the power supply to the I/O board.
b. broken or poor connection from I/O board to the coil.
2) Broken or poor connection from the control line to the coil.
3) Coil filament broken.
For your issue, I would start with one of the partially functioning coils. Put the game in test mode and check the voltages at each terminal of the coil with respect to ground when not activated and when activated. Remember to close the coin door when making measurements.
The 70V on the purple wire shouldn't drop much when the coil is activated. The voltage on the control line should go to 0V but this is hard to measure with a DVM because the pulse is short.
If it’s not clear what is wrong, repeat the process on a working coil and compare the results.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Update the "IO2". They should all be running .9 Pretty easy through settings menu.

Quoted from manadams:

All of my flippers died during ambush multiball and looks like all coils in test are not working. Coils will just barely move in test. I re-seated all usb cables and looks like some have been upgraded but not all. Here is a video of driver board and farthest transistor to right is blinking if that means anything. Any ideas what the problem might be?