(Topic ID: 106728)

ALIEN PINBALL - Game Over, Man, Game Over

By HeighwayPinball

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 27,001 posts
  • 1,037 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 minutes ago by delt31
  • Topic is favorited by 274 Pinsiders


Linked Games

  • Alien Heighway Pinball, 2017

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Topic index (key posts)

53 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #9151 Insight from Alien's programmer on tournament mode Posted by Ferret (3 years ago)

Post #9234 Update on distribution Posted by HeighwayPinball (3 years ago)

Post #9660 Here we show you a short clip from the 'Ambush Multiball' mode Posted by HeighwayPinball (3 years ago)

Post #10128 Photo of Alien at UK Trade Show Posted by unigroove (3 years ago)

Post #10230 game play video from EAG UK tradeshow Posted by Join_The_Cirqus (3 years ago)

Post #10231 game play video from EAG UK tradeshow Posted by Join_The_Cirqus (3 years ago)

Post #10914 Alien ships Posted by ZenTron (3 years ago)

Post #10916 Alien ships Posted by HeighwayPinball (3 years ago)

Post #11230 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by ezeltmann (3 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#22259 2 years ago
Quoted from Waldo:

Anyone know where I can find the 1.2 game code. Apparently my google Kung Fu is still asleep this morning.

Ferret posted a link on the previous page.

2 weeks later
#22311 2 years ago

metallica.. shaker all the things! #kidding

1 week later
#22408 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Also noticed last night that it shipped with a broken plastic. Guess it was just a matter of shoving these out the door before they were locked.

True.. but if that’s all you have to deal with consider yourself lucky. You could be reverse engineering boards and alien heads.

#22418 2 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Got an LE coming my way!

I’m out

#22421 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

I'm still pissed as I was supposed to have LE number 2 and my order was never fulfilled but I had paid. I so want anyone associated with Heighway to fail.

I don’t blame you, but the only person to despise is Andrew. I can tell you after having torn apart several of these games from prototype to production there were several people who wanted to bring us an amazing game, as the game improved dramatically over time. Andrew cheated them and us.

#22464 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

+1...throw away factory balls immediately...carbon only for this one....

If you’re talking about high carbon steel (I.e. silverjet) with the magnet in this game the balls will retain magnetism and stick to each other and other metal on the game. It would be best to use regular balls.

2 weeks later
#22540 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

I cant.. I can't sleep, I can't focus. This pinball stuff has taken my energy. I may go as far as make my own plaque and put it on the machine # 1 of 1

Everything that's on an LE can be re-created, beacons, powdercoat, side lit rails, and even the plaque.

#22553 2 years ago

We have successfully reproduced translites also.. not a big deal

Also, many of the late run production games came with lit side panels for some reason. There is no rhyme or reason to anything that came out of heighway. 200 games 150 variations and configurations.

#22559 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Wow that’s it ? That’s including both le and se?

I’ve seen the thread about only that many molded toys being made, but sources within the company say it was more like 200.

Let’s not discount the possibility that Andrew could have had China copy the molds and produce them for cheaper, everything else was outsourced there.

#22572 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I know serial numbers of some of the last individual games to be built and they fall in line with what fits the #s of the last container that went to AUS.
It also matches what previous Heighway employees said to me personally. (yes, I spoke to some of them pretty regularly and even developed a friendship some of the good guys)

There are other previous heighway employees that contradict what you're saying.. My sources say less than 200, more than 120.. either way, its limited. In my opinion based on the serial numbers I've seen, they aren't necessarily sequential or indicative of "how many". Many games I've seen even have full throttle stickers on the back of the cabinet.. The lack of organization and consistency within heighway makes determining this number correctly, very difficult.

#22603 1 year ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

Weird the pinball bros. have yet to speak on their own behalf of what the fuk is going on already ! Seems like it's been a while.. crickets

I see a little silhouetto of a man

#22643 1 year ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

With which game you can compare the flow of Alien machine? That can help me to know if this a fast game, medium or stop and go machine.

Personally I would say STTNG

#22654 1 year ago
Quoted from Bartzenegger:

Those look real good. My question is I’m assuming it’s not tied to the game by coding so are you just gonna have them on the whole time ?


#22659 1 year ago
Quoted from sed6:

Anyone have a good phone number for Heighway? The number on there website doesn't work. I've ignored this thread for months (too depressing), I'm still waiting for my game to ship. I wonder how many people have gotten theirs in the last 3-4 months?

Fry-can-t-tell-meme-generator-not-sure-if-sarcasm-or-serious-e14739 (resized).jpg

Heighway pinball is bankrupt, the factory was cleared out.. all the IP assets were transferred to "pinball brothers" who are radio silent now.. if you don't have a game in your possession, you unfortunately will not receive one.

#22688 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys I just realized my shaker motor wasn't working and when I opened the coin door its was unplugged.. does anyone know where it connects to?

On the board just inside the coindoor is a connector that says “shaker motor” go figure..

EFDB044C-6569-4EB8-A357-AC39F36BF309 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#22987 1 year ago
Quoted from Bartzenegger:

IS this the latest code loaded ?
Thank you!!

Yes. 1.2 w/ the I/O boards at 0.9 is the latest.

#22997 1 year ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

Can you just give me some quick answers? I don't have time to read 460 pages

Here are some quick answers..
- do I have to put some mylar on the playfield? (scoop, magnet,..)
Nope, nobody can make you do anything. But you should put some mylar on the scoop and buy/install a cliffy.
- Is it better to remove te post under the upper right flipper?
No, don't do that.
- Can I adjust my popbumpers? The doesn't "pop" a lot...
Yes you can, its the same adjustment as any other pinball machine.. The spoon switch.
- Can i buy a lock for my backbox?
Yes you can, they are available on amazon. amazon.com link »

#22999 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Is getting a lock for the backbox optional for some versions of Alien? Because my SE has like two locks

I dont know about that, but they aren't keyed alike.. so I replaced all of mine so they are all the same key.. Also, I didn't have the keys for one of the games..

#23054 1 year ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

are those illuminated inside panels and backboard an LE option?
I have a SE with these panels.
I also have the large screen in the backbox and the LE topper

They were not exclusively an LE option. Nearly everyone has the large screen in the backbox.

What is the LE topper, the beacons?

#23073 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Finally got my Xenomorph tongue working but the jaw is just stuck in the open position and won't move. During test it's unresponsive. Any tips greatly appreciated!

Has it ever worked?

Does it make any noise during power on or calibrate in the menu? This would indicate that power is getting to it but it's mechanically seized.

Verify that the three wire connector on the back of the jaw board is plugged in, (usually a lighter green, has a large AMTEL chip on it, and doesn't have the stepper motor daughter board). In my example it's the one on the right. Also, the servo motor wiring is sometimes backwards.. verify top to bottom it's red, brown orange..

IMG_6084 (resized).jpg

#23083 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Thanks for the tip... checked the clearance and it seems to not be touching the targets.

The jaw is attached via a wire to a servo arm that swings back and forth. You can try to move the wire back by hand effectively closing the jaw and moving the servo arm back to see if this frees it up.

The servos that originally shipped with the game we’re plastic and sometimes become stripped. It would account for the intermittent behavior. There is a replacement metal servo, but it only comes in a 4 pack as far as I’ve found.

RioRand 4 x MG90S Metal Geared Micro Servo For Plane Helicopter Boat Car New amazon.com link »

On mine I had to enlarge the hole in the servo arm slightly, and flip the red and brown wires in the harness for it to work.

1 week later
#23165 1 year ago
Quoted from Bartzenegger:

Hey guys I just got my cliffy in. do you know the easiest way to install? I’m concerned about breaking the plastics.
Thank you to all and all to scream again.


#23168 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys Ive noticed that some owners.. their xeno head jaw is completely closed then opens with the tongue/magnet. Mine is always open, opens a little bit more when it activates. Which one is normal? Does that mean my jaw is broken?

Probably just means that your servo is either broken (the originally gearing was plastic but they make metal ones you can buy from amazon). Or that the actuator arm from the servi is incorrectly aligned.

Unfortunately you need to take the head off to inspect the servo underneath the jaw.

#23173 1 year ago
Quoted from cyber-greg:

can we adjust the opening range of the mouth? and the closing position of the mouth?

The range of how much the mouth opens is already pre determined. You can adjust where closed is by unscrewing the actuator arm from the servo and setting it to where you want. Again the head needs to be removed to do this as the servo is underneath.

1 week later
#23266 1 year ago

PSA: just a reminder to not use high carbon CHROMIUM steel balls (silver jets) in games with magnet features...

Now back to your regularly scheduled program..

#23284 1 year ago

tomdk I need the bottom most plastic pieces on the Weyland and Yutani returns. Mine are the original teardrop shape before they changed it to circular and my left “Weyland” one is broken.

Any way that you could run just these?

#23341 1 year ago

join_the_cirqus haven’t attempted this yet.. what did you do to get your assembly out?

#23360 1 year ago

Speaking of parts.. I just ran through and did an inventory of parts.. I may have something here if you guys need it, or possibly can find it.

Anything you guys are missing or need a replacement of?

#23361 1 year ago

In single lamp test on your games does C-X6 Top PF. Lights do anything? Our games don’t seem to do anything..

#23365 1 year ago

SDPinballer I don’t have the ramp flaps. But I would suggest removing the ramp and using scotch brute pads and a lubricant to remove the surface rust.

If that doesn’t work you can try soaking them in evapo-rust.

Additionally you could contact Cliffy and see if you sent him your ramps glad as a template if he would stamp out a few new ones. Although I know he’s pretty busy these days.

As a last resort maybe there are some parts on pinbits that you could buy/mod to suit your needs. They sell a variety of ramp flaps for games.

#23369 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Thanks for the comments and "in´s" !
knockerlover : Can you post some pics from your "early" ramps ? We were discussing this today how this looked !! Due to the rivets on the lower layer of the ramp to connect the wireramp we did not swap this on my machine.

The metal ramps are the same, just the plastic returns at the inlanes are different. Early runs the cutouts were teardrop shaped, they later made these circular and moved them back to prevent this from happening like in the picture below.

BED9854A-241E-443E-9F2A-C98F7DE875A3 (resized).jpeg

Here’s a picture of the other side.. note the bottom plastic of the 3 layers isn’t broken.

88C8C0E3-8703-467C-9B38-647F522187C4 (resized).jpeg
#23382 1 year ago

timebandit woot!

#23387 1 year ago
Quoted from tatapolus:

I just removed the beacon lights due to my low cellar ceiling. I wanted to install the lights somewhere around the Alien LE. First of all, those lights are not meant to be easily removed. I thought it would just be a few screws. But I had to move my pins to remove the entire backbox and so on. But we made it.
Now I am a bit disappointed because the lights are not very bright and are moving a bit slow. They don't seem like in this old Heighway video and I wanted to ask you if yours are looking like in the video or if you can confirm that the lights are a bit dimm, slow turning and quite noisy. Many Thank!!!

Neat! In that video you can see a light bar at the top of the playfield, and I think that’s the very early prototype with the alien in the box vs the airlock display. That could be one reason it’s different.

My aftermarket beacons don’t move that fast, and they aren’t as bright. Take a video of yours?

1 week later
#23425 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Anyone sell the xeno assembly with the metal gear instead of plastic one? Dont need the big black head

Why not just get the cheap metal gear from eBay and install it yourself?

#23431 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

If the old gear doesn't slid off, then you can whack it with a chisel and hammer (Or torque it with some pliers) and it'll crack right off.
Normally, I like to keep the parts I remove, but in this case the gear is garbage.

A little bit of heat should free up the glue, scrape the residue off with an xacto knife.

Or you know, spend $460 on a new xeno head..

#23468 1 year ago

I have an original wound transformer.. it doesn’t fix the HF issues, and I can’t say there is any benefit. I actually think it may be causing problems with the later model xeno heads. But just a theory at this point.

1 week later
#23518 1 year ago
Quoted from PinBackpacker:

I’d be in as well!

me three

1 week later
#23547 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Sensor update. Closer attention with the scope has led to a nice breakthrough. Micro is not needed at all. Quite a few parts can be left off and it seems some future ability for the switches is built in that was not realised on this machine. My replacement will not have a micro and will be simple and cheap. Give me a couple of weeks to test prototypes and they will then be available along with the other parts.

Woot! But what the heck additional functionality were they building in?

1 month later
#23629 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Working. Demo below.
[quoted image]

This is amazing work.. A single bad switch can render a game absolutely un-fun, thanks for helping to keep these games running for more years to come!

#23653 1 year ago

I posted this lamp matrix on pinwiki, http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair#Lamp_Matrix. These lamps work in a chain, and if one bulb is out or broken all the lamps after it in the chain will not work. In this case it looks like somewhere in the chain 1-A may have a bulb broken or missing. In single lamp test follow that chain from the beginning and see where the fault starts. If you don't have any extra LED lamps to test with, grab one from another string temporarily to test replace to see if you can find the culprit.

#23663 1 year ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

The first thing I would try is swapping the I/O board. Much easier to get to.

Honestly, I wouldn’t. It’s likely not the cause of the issue, and you risk breaking the fragile usb connector and header pins. (I’ve broken two)

My advice would be (with the game off) to unscrew the board from the playfield just enough so you can reach the light..

Also pull a bulb out from a different I/O board that you can easily reach by removing a few screws..

Plug that known good bulb into 1-A1 and see what happens. My guess is the string will light up, but if not slowly work up the chain plugging that known good bulb into each socket up to the pops.

I doubt the pops themselves are the issue, but it’s possible.

#23664 1 year ago

One other thing, as ferret eluded to the traces in the earlier PCBs are.. delicate to put it nicely. So if wiggling a socket causes any change (flickering/solid lights) you may need to reflow the solder for that socket or even add a jumper in some cases.

#23667 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

That's going to be my approach...in my case, the concern is all of the led's light in the GI (white) only, so in single lamp test, they all just stay on. In theory, A1 could still be the problem, but also suspicious of the pops. Changing (touching) those I/O boards makes me nervous for the very reason you state. That connection is so poor....
It amazes me how some areas of the game are over engineered, where other, very basic concepts (connectivity) where not. Those ramps had to be crazy expensive to make and assemble, yet the Apron is the worst I've ever seen (1 example).....we stay the course.....

I think the playfield glass is the most prominent example of over engineering.

#23673 1 year ago
Quoted from bcd:

The single lamp test only uses the preferred color of the LED. GI is normally white and the pops are normally green.
If you want to test all the lamp colors, use the All Lamps Test instead. This will cycle through the R, G, B components. This can be helpful in isolating a fault that only appears with certain color combinations.

What I really want on the next code release is an option to turn off the timeout in lamp test..

#23690 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Is this what you used to replace A1? Im confused.. thanks

Those are the correct insert bulbs, but they come in strips that need the header pins soldered on.

1 week later
#23705 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Does anyone know where I might find a new PF LCD? I assume mine is shot since it's behaving very strangely. Images are blown out and seem to overlap with each other very slowly.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

See this post..


#23707 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I would love to own one of these but seems it many were produced due to heighway going under. Did we ever get a total count on machines made?

150-200, sources close to Heighway state closer to the 200 number.

#23747 1 year ago
Quoted from pinghetto:

Any idea where they are getting the gear from? This is the last hiccup I have in my game (at least for now)!!

Assuming you have the later run stepper motor with the larger 5mm shaft (black square box vs metal with 12vdc motor) this RC car part will work.

ebay.com link

I should also note, replacing this.. sucks. Removing the head, taking the chassis apart, removing the old glued on gear.. take lots of pictures and make sure the kids aren’t within shouting distance or are wearing earmuffs.

2 weeks later
#23776 1 year ago
Quoted from SunKing:

A couple weeks ago I received a tracking email from Cointaker. Hmmmm, I don't remember buying anything recently. Another drunk purchase perhaps?? I just got Iron Maiden so ....maybe I bought a mod I don't remember??
I was really surprised when the package arrived, and it was filled with spare parts for Alien. Well, I *had* been pestering Heighway and Cointaker for spare parts since I purchased an Alien prototype off the floor of TPF back in 2017. But since then Cointaker replaced my proto with a true production machine, and I eventually sold that and moved on. I'm guessing they were cleaning house and found the parts with my name on them.
So anyway, I have two original Heighway Pinball I/O boards (ver 1.4b), a complete Xeno head assembly with motors, some spare induction switches, and various LEDs. Since the I/O boards alone are going for over $200 - I think it's fair to ask $500 (obo) for the lot. PM me if you're interested.[quoted image]

I mean.. theoretically you should pass these on to the owner of your original machine..

1 week later
#23791 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

lost my airlock lcd last night. on reboot, saw it flash, but then dark (tells me I have power but no signal?)....
tried just swapping outputs on cpu, but neither of the other 2 screens got image from that dvi port. is the resolution the same for all 3?...going to swap the dvi cable tonight, but wanted to run by community first....have a spare, but figured I'd start w a question.
my main image on large and pf screen also developed a slight white image on the right side....wondering if my video feed is dumping.....any help appreciated.
going to monitor the cabinet heat in these cabinets.....curious how warm it's getting down there, and if this could have a long term role in any component failure.....game has been basically solid for around a year w some tweaks....has anyone done this yet?...thanks...mark

The resolution is not the same for all three screens, and because of this all of the screens have to be plugged into a specific display port on the computer. Assuming you have the "China PC" vs the Zotac, here are the appropriate connections.

Motherboard connectors (resized).jpg

I would check to see if the playfield display image shows up on a regular computer monitor that can auto-detect resolutions to make sure the cable works and you have signal, then try swapping cables with that display and go from there.

It's also worth checking the connections at the display. Use an 11/32" nut driver to take the 6 nuts out from behind the screen, and then you can de-case the display through similar nuts on the back side.

With regards to the playfield display, the ribbon cable on the inside is very cheaply made and the connection can come partially loosened. It's worth dropping the playfield display out, and de-casing it to check this connection (carefully!)

3 weeks later
#23835 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Hey guys!
Got my Alien SE today, it's running the latest firmware (1.2) with updated IO boards.
I am having a problem though (shocking right). Most of the time when hitting the pops it seams like all the coils are turning of (or maybe just the flippers) making the ball drain, they start working again the next ball, until I hit the pops again. I tried pushing all the connectors under the playfield with no success.

Usually this is due to poor usb connectivity. The game shipped with literally the worlds cheapest cables. Consider replacing them with nicer cables that have ferrite core/chokes to help reduce chatter/noise interference.

#23868 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Am I the only one who is not a big fan of the "scream again" ball save sound?
I think it sounds like a wookie from star wars and thats the completely wrong franchise.
I wish there was either a human or a xeno screaming instead, the rest of the sounds are great but the "wookie" scream takes me out of the immersion a bit.

The video media and sound files are all on the PC filesystem, you can easily change them.

#23871 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

So I am now having trouble with a bunch of lights.
Som times som are stuck on in one color, others can be off at the same time.
See images from the test mode below to see witch lights are affected. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]


The Lamp ID is based on the following sequence [IO Board #-Chain, Lamp ID]. Translated, 1-A1 would be IO Board #1, Chain A, Lamp 1. One thing to note is that these lamps are serially addressed, which means that if one LED fails or is missing, all following LED's in that chain will not work correctly (locked on, off, flashing, etc.)

Find the earliest Trouble LED in the chain and try and reseat it slightly. You may need to reflow the solder underneath as early PCB traces are weak. Do this as a last resort.

#23874 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Scratch, that, not sure it's the cable, the same problem is back with the (new) replacement cable.

In your case I would slightly tweak/reseat" 2-C8 Left Orbit Lower", and "2-C1 GI Right Orbit Lower" you can sometimes do it without loosening the screws for the large PCB board, but in most cases you have to take a few out to slightly lift the board away from the playfield.

#23881 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

To fix the lights I have tried the following.
1. reseated some of the lights including 2-c8 & 2-c1.
2. Replaced the I/O board usb cable.
3. Tried a new usb port on the CPU.
4. Swapped I/O board.
Nothing have helped.

The picture you posted before. Did you plug something into that LED_Chain_Out-2A socket? That could be the source of your issue.

If you take out the lights that are causing an issue and plug it into one of the little green free standing boards in the GI, does the bulb work as expected? I would keep testing individual potentially problem bulbs like this until you find the culprit. You may need to reflow solder on the LED or find a replacement. You can move problem bulbs to the end of the chain for the time being to minimize the impact.

#23889 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

I have no also taken out the through emitter board and reflowed solder on all solder points, I am still getting the same problem.
What I did notice (maybe) is that the through kicks out balls until it has cleared all 6 balls, I am not sure about this, I need to test this some more.

Usually it does this if it detects a jam.. the higher LED.

image (resized).jpg
#23897 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

That was one of the things I was suspecting so I took a little paperclip to each ball, even though some of them was a tiny bit magnetically charged it was not enough to hold the paperclip.

Make sure you aren't using silverjet's

#23904 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I have mylar and a cliffy around my magnet. The magnet catching the ball is not 100%. Probably around 60-70% for me. I though I read that the cliffy has some affect on that, but I haven't bothered to remove it yet. I don't *think* just mylar would have a major impact. Sometimes the ball is just moving too fast for the magnet to grab.

Later versions of the code 1.2 I believe utilized the magnet a little heavier (more action). You can also increase the magnet strength in the menu.

#23909 1 year ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

So I was adjusting one of the switches in my left sling as it was stuck on.
Doing that with the game on was not a smart idea, I managed to short the LED behind the switch.
It's not totally dead, it's more like mortally wounded, shining the wrong colors and blinks a lot.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? Freeplay don't seem to have them in stock.
Kinda idiotic to leave the LED board exposed like that, just a matter of time before they get shorted just from balls hitting the switch and pushing it back into the LED.

timebandit makes a replacement that is even better than the original. It has two LEDs around that are mounted so they aren’t behind the rubber or switch blade. It’s much better and brighter.

#23958 1 year ago

Talked to DylanFan71 on the phone. All the LED's for the 70v (high power) are on when the game turns on, but after maybe 20 seconds the HV cuts out. All the LED's in the 70v section slowly fade off, and then there is no high power.

If someone can take a picture of their coin door interlock wiring that would be helpful so we can verify.

1 week later
#23986 1 year ago

A common issue with Alien is the left return lane plastics breaking and cracking, in later runs Heighway attempted to correct the issue by changing the design, but it still didn't completely solve the problem.

This is such a long run, the ball builds up momentum and all the force of the impact either hits a thin piece of plastic in earlier designs.. or a post that eventually breaks in the same way. Combine this with fragile Lexan that all games were made with (vs stronger PETG), and this is a much bigger problem.

Fortunately, Cliff and I have been working together on a solution and after a few prototypes and lots of back and forth these are now available, and highly recommend for everyone with an Alien. A large piece of steel, a little thicker than your average cliffy that installs underneath the return lane.. with a small vertical tab that comes up through the ball drop hole. These are $18, and can be ordered by e-mailing Cliff Rinear at crinear@comcast.net

Here is a picture of it installed on my game.

4qG+0t1UT%CDgWsWRYvRlA (resized).jpg

This looks a little different because I have an earlier run game, but was given a lower plastic piece from a later run game, so the top two pieces are missing the post.. but the bottom has a post hole.

Here are a few pictures from the bottom, and one view of the early run (without the front post hole..)

Later Run..
O9HY42W4SZqCTpDCVWuYRA (resized).jpg

Earlier Run
2PwuYjTqSGKlG+yzp441mw (resized).jpg
dCH8JYKNQ5e2hSHaiTNLOg (resized).jpg

To install, remove all the nylon nuts from the left inlane..
xM9vM%IUS+OKznviMDXC2Q (resized).jpg

Remove the top plastic, and all of the plastic spacers..

Carefully remove the second layer plastic, and all of the next level of plastic spacers. Then remove the few metal posts loosely placed in the sidewall, as well as the few wood screws.
3eZtyZXLRoO1Xb9Gce9Jxg (resized).jpg

Remove a few of the remaining posts that keep the plastic in the game.
mp7wGqtDRVeraCQCif50uA (resized).jpg

With the plastic removed, remove the posts with nylon nuts underneath, documenting where they were installed . install the cliffy underneath with the tab facing up.. and reinstall the posts that attach with nylon nuts underneath.

Then reinstall the lower plastic, wood screws, posts, spacers, etc. in reverse order.

LOVCwcfJRk+1kTkAe3qvVw (resized).jpgali+iWf2RmWSFO9rZFuyyg (resized).jpgcHd2utRRSgON3tWqx0w3iQ (resized).jpg

1 week later
#24032 1 year ago

Cool that yours say Alien. Mine said “Full Throttle”.. lol

#24046 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

I'm speculating not 100% on that...

Before I replaced the jaw board, I would check and see if you have 15vdc coming from the top pcb it’s a two wire black/yellow wire near the bottom left next to the other 7 wire harness.

Then I would make sure you have continuity on all the wires in the wiring harness from the jaw board to the top pcb..

Then I would buy a 4-pack of the metal servos on amazon, and change the wiring to match the original. (Swap orange and brown I think) and see if they work.. you should put one of these in anyway.

OctagonStar 4 Pieces MG90S Metal Geared Micro Servo For Plane Helicopter Boat Car amazon.com link »

Unless of course you have an oscilloscope and can monitor the servo outputs from the jaw board for signal.

#24049 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Thanks for the links. Is the servo plug directlly same as before or do we need to do something with the wires? I m not sure for the wire color code, is everything the same?

Two of the wires need to be flipped..compare the one you have.. I think it’s orange and brown but forget.

#24050 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

I bought this one - still good right
amazon.com link »

Yeah still good, just out of stock..

#24086 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

bought this SERVO, swaped the brown and red wire, plugged it: worked in test mode and then unplugged and plugged it back: ,never worked again.
The motor seems locked. I checked the board tension which seems OK...
so this one to be avoid maybe....
amazon.com link »
edit: after another test, I see the inner mechnism which work but the whole thing is blocked so it doesn't work properly.
I've ordered the MG90D, hopefully this one will work

I've put the MG90S without issue in several games, could be a bad servo.. that does happen from time to time. Likely though there is some other issue. The xeno wiring harnesses use very small connectors and are very fragile. This is why I suggest checking the harness for continuity to make sure you dont have a break somewhere. Intermittent or poor connection can cause the issues you describe.

#24091 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

I checked the wire, everything seems OK. The servo no longer work so I'm out of idea.
I need to test with another one and hopefully it was a bad servo.

Just to be clear there are two wiring harnesses, they run from the “Top PCB” to the jaw controller board and to the tongue motor controller board.

The jaw controller board is connected via a 4 wire connector w/ 3 wires (usually blue) connected to a port on the middle right hand side labeled “modes” if you have a letter rev top PCB. Also a 15v 2 pin power connector (yellow and black) on the bottom left. I suspect this could be the source of your issue.

There is also a 6wire (rainbow) connector that goes to the tongue board, and do the tongue switch on top of the Xeno head. But it sounds like your tongue works fine.

Mk6 brings up a good point about the hot glue. The board manufacturer actually installs a smaller connector where the servo motor connects. This wasn’t pryed off at Heighway, the servo wires reversed, then hot glued onto the jaw board. (High quality)

#24095 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Thanks. Yes the tongue works fine and the whole game play pretty solid since i have it.
I ve checked and I have those 2 wires to control the jaw on the side (yellow and black) my board has the last rev. I tried to test it and maintening it by hand with the plyfield on top on test and it was still not working.
My board used to have glue on the jaw connector which I removed (no choice) to test new servo. Anyway that s a good idea to secure those connections with that.

Those two wires are just the power, the signal comes from the three blue wires labeled “modes” on the right side. You should check continuity through that harness to the jaw board.

#24144 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

The only absolute miss and fail on components would be the acrylics......huge problem, and will absolutely destroy the games if not replaced, as hard, sharp beads will invade everything as they crack (all of them crack).....they could have saved a ton of $$$ if they just used wireforms, or plastic ramps w decals as opposed to the nightmare they created there. Impressive when upfitted, but a massive over engineered thought, imho...

That’s why you need to buy the Cliffy for the left lane return, if you haven’t already!

EA445354-0276-462A-B5E4-2D02492133E1 (resized).jpeg
#24219 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys how do you have to the save newt multi ball? I have never seen it.

On the display there is a lifecycle hud. You need to complete the lifecycle twice, hitting each phase in order (egg, facehugger, chestburster, then Xeno). There inserts light up also as you progress.

#24252 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

yesterday got two balls in the airlock and took about 2 minutes of continuous ejecting for them to finally come out. Never had that happen before, must have been the angle they were sitting in there.

What version of software are you running?

#24276 1 year ago
Quoted from Per_:

My favorite, the JJP Hobbit

I’ll take “words not commonly said together” for $1000 Alex..

3 weeks later
#24433 1 year ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Anyone in the PHX have an Alien to play? I really believe this pin in a HUO setting has to be one of the most immersive pins ever..

It is

2 weeks later
#24498 1 year ago

Haven’t been keeping up.. but friendly reminder not to update code on the Zotac PC. And the bios settings above will only apply to the Zotac PC (enclosed) not the High Praise (open under lexan) PC.

#24524 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Do you have any idea what could cause reset randomly during the game?
I ll looking for any clue to help me analyze my issue. The log didn’t helped that much and everything seems to work fine... tks

Did you happen to notice if it corresponded with a replay? That was one weird situation that happened to us.

#24530 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Could you please tell me more about the replay? In the log files it mentioned a bonus award which could have cause that. From the log file It caused a infinite loop with this onus award and crashed.
Also it always happening when I have a lot of points (long game with 3 or 4 sequences acheived)

I think we just disabled the replay award..

#24535 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Hello all.
I have a strange behavior and i wanted to know if anyone share this or have any idea what s going on:
During game play when i pressed the flippers some if the leds bright when pressing the button, like this.
Any idea what could cause this?

The “disco” effect.. helped some by replacing usb cables with better ones.. but mostly helped with latest code.

I believe it’s caused by cross chatter on the I/O board..

#24548 1 year ago
Quoted from megaladon:

I have a prototype alien starting to upgrade it, love the game but someday upgrading/trading to a le would be nice! Get a cliffy on that magnet! Just curious, where do you get a NIB alien?! Do vendors even have them lol?[quoted image][quoted image]

You should replace or file down that magnet core.. and make it more level with the playfield.

Upgrading from an early run game to a production game.. you have a long road ahead of you buddy.

#24581 1 year ago
Quoted from cyber-greg:

finally, the rarest are the SE

I would say the rarest are the legitimate prototypes.. with the squarish ramps made out of stacked lexan..

F404241E-FFAA-4989-BB1A-73FAF80696F1 (resized).jpeg
#24585 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

This one is the rarest among all![quoted image]

no full display, and next to a TBL.. very rare indeed.

#24598 1 year ago
Quoted from gold1:

I actually asked whether you have played Alien? Perhaps have a child read it back and explain it to you.

Both you and dung take it to PM please..

#24608 1 year ago
Quoted from dung:

The troll aside...
For anyone with the older style inverted logic drop target board Freeplay has a couple full drop target assemblies. Bit pricey at 130 shipped, but after recieving pics it is very obvious that it is not using a williams/bally drop target board like mine is. Have not found another source for that board and wondering if once they sell out anyone else needing it to upgrade will have to design their own?

I’ve never had hands on the original problematic drop target board. But the way it was explained to me is there is something reversed. So the game is constantly trying to put the drop targets into a state they are unknowingly already in, and get stuck in a loop.

I would *think* this could be hacked to work.

2 weeks later
#24696 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Yeah that is notorious for being overpowered.
Is it ok to increase strength via the menu option or will that cause problems with the game?

Overpowered in most games, perfect for alien.

#24727 1 year ago

In find Jonesy.. “Brett” can be heard saying.. “Here kitty kitty..”

1 week later
#24827 12 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Am I the only one thinking.. There is a company selling Alien playfields.. hmm... Cabinet over there, a P-roc.. here..

Have fun writing the p-roc drivers to interface with the Heighway I/O boards. Also, many things that should have been handled by those I/O boards are hacked into the game code. That should be fun too.

#24849 12 months ago
Quoted from jwilson:

I don't think anyone said Open Source. The source exists though, multiple people have a copy. Just throw up a torrent, BOOM.

What people have in their games isn't source.. What people have is compiled code, libraries, and media.

#24854 12 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Correct me if I'm wrong, the game OS has a Linux foundation does it not?

Yes, the O/S is a Linux variant of which parts are open source.. And that Open-Source O/S is running an application (the game) that is not Open-Source.

#24856 12 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

It would not be profitable for a company to make wholesale hardware changes midstream, a hobbyist with time on their hands is a different situation.
People said cracking a certain manufactures software for fuel injection wasn't possible either and yet I helped develop tools with a group of people to just do that. Made a nice living tuning cars and burning custom calibrations.

Academically speaking, it's "possible" for someone to recreate the game using P-ROC and the Peripheral boards. Here are some top of mind challenges..

While the playfields are available, people have re-created plastic sets, and the Weyland-Yutani team (myself, mavantix, etc.) have sourced replacement parts for many components.. there are still:

Ramps and Wireforms, Major Assemblies such as the Hypersleep lock and the skeleton of the alien head, Molded Plastics like the Alien Head and Jaw.

The playfield is built to work with Heighway proprietary pop bumpers and flippers (that pull in whole out from the playfield) so a drop-in replacement (WPC) could not be used and those would need to be fabricated.

The media files are compressed images and movies that are available openly on the O/S, however the game code/rules, etc. would have to be re-written and would be an "emulation".

In my limited experience with the alien code, the line between what hardware the game code controls and what hardware the hardware firmware controls is VERY blurry. So I don't believe "porting" alien code would be an easy feat..

#24862 12 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

Today I received the panel prototypes and I did some improvement on them.
I wonder why left and right panel are not in the same position, they are nearly mirrored but they have different measurements and the holes for the pins at the left panel are 5 mm more to the left.
I hope that all the ALIEN are the same in that spot?
By the way, what are the two holes in the panels to the center are used for?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

doing gods work..

#24912 11 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys so after replacing the IO board the two back eggs are working better. They still flash when I first boot up the machine and during gameplay they are 100% fine. But its very rarely maybe once every couple minutes they will flash or be out of sync. Do you think it could still be the pCb board? My tech is convinced its a software issue

I would say more likely you're dealing with a flaky bulb or trace.. the bulbs are serial, so likely an issue in the chain prior to the left/right top jet series. Take a look at http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair#Lamp_Matrix and maybe try swapping out some of the bulbs prior to the jet bumpers and see if it helps.

I would bet that replacing the I/O board is a red herring, and more likely you manipulated some light or trace to behave differently when messing around in that area.

3 weeks later
#25203 11 months ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

I'm taking my Alien to a show next week and, after spending several hours replacing umpteen failed LEDs, I was hoping to get the xeno going (it's never worked properly) but so far the only solution for the gear slipping issue that I've found involves glueing the gear onto the shaft. I haven't been able to make that work... Has anyone got a different solution?

Assuming you have a later production game with the larger black/square digikey motor.

Requires pulling the Xeno head off the playfield and mostly disassembling.. then install this..


it's a Pinion gear with the specs of 5mm bore (shaft), 32P (pitch), 28T (teeth).

#25240 10 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Yes I think you are right. U guys r going to think I’m a weirdo but my wife and I had a hard time conceiving so we hired a shaman . He came to the house and wanted me to get rid of all my pinball machines and said there was a vortex in the basement . He said there were also unwelcome people in the backyard . He did a ceremony and ever since then my wife and I don’t have nightmares anymore and we have a baby now . When I used to be in the basement I would feel like
Something was behind me and this cold wind would be on my neck . Made me shiver . Ever since his ceremony it went away

That is the most elaborate way for a wife to try and get rid of pinball machines I've heard of yet..

2 months later
#25685 8 months ago

A version of Alien will be made by pinball brothers, and likely CGC will be involved. It won’t be a remake though, it will be a totally new design. I don’t think even the team making it has a real schedule yet.

#25697 8 months ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Same game with some refinements and a standard cabinet is my guess.

Likely a new design.

#25739 8 months ago
1C392566-F5B1-4030-87B6-1B3A92202A50 (resized).png
3 months later
#26166 4 months ago

Spare parts if anyone is interested..

Archived after 0 days
Not sold
Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “2 Pop bumper eggs, new unused 1 Small section of LED light strips from the factory for side blades or backbox, wired/soldered with right connectors 5 replacement metal xeno jaw ser...”
Warrenton, VA
40 (Firm)

I also have about 50 five SMD tower LEDs and two of the very early tongue motors. If you’re so unlucky to have one of the games that can use these, I will send them to you for free.

D0AE09A9-3B8C-41EA-9741-FDE615420B50 (resized).jpeg
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