(Topic ID: 106728)

ALIEN PINBALL - Game Over, Man, Game Over

By HeighwayPinball

9 years ago


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53 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #9151 Insight from Alien's programmer on tournament mode Posted by Ferret (7 years ago)

Post #9234 Update on distribution Posted by HeighwayPinball (7 years ago)

Post #9660 Here we show you a short clip from the 'Ambush Multiball' mode Posted by HeighwayPinball (7 years ago)

Post #10128 Photo of Alien at UK Trade Show Posted by unigroove (7 years ago)

Post #10230 game play video from EAG UK tradeshow Posted by Join_The_Cirqus (7 years ago)

Post #10231 game play video from EAG UK tradeshow Posted by Join_The_Cirqus (7 years ago)

Post #10914 Alien ships Posted by ZenTron (7 years ago)

Post #10916 Alien ships Posted by HeighwayPinball (7 years ago)

Post #11230 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by ezeltmann (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#25445 4 years ago

Question for the group.
I noticed during gameplay today that first the right, and then the left green inserts on either side of the airlock were out in random ways during gameplay today.

This game is somewhat new to me and from what I noticed, those two inserts by the airlock, the green insert in front of the xeno head and the closest pop bumper appear to run on the same solid green light during the game and attract, while all of the other lights will cycle variable colors. In that game, the green insert by the xeno head and the close pop bumper were still green. I checked out the boards housing the lights, they looked unremarkable.
So, I rebooted the game. When it does initial cycle through all lights upon start-up, both green inserts on either side of airlock show brief strong light. Started a game and on that game only the right green insert next to the airlock that was unlit. Tried to play a game with glass off. Left green insert stayed on, couldn't do any move/shot to make right insert turn on. Turned off and on. Next game the opposite, i.e. right green insert next to airlock on, but the left was off??? Otherwise, gameplay itself did not appear to be affected.
Maybe I'm missing something gameplay related? Thoughts/insights?
Thanks!

#25482 4 years ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

The LED modules are crap, basically. One goes out and stops the data reaching the rest in the chain. To finally sort my game out I replaced 14 of them recently and now I see the top two eggs are stuck on green so it's off with the pcb again and order up some more LEDs. Fortunately, they are fairly cheap to buy.
mike.

Thanks for your reply Mike.
I was hoping this was not some unusual issue, which it sounds like it is not. I was hoping to hear that it was just the LEDs that needed to be replaced, so I very much appreciate your response.
I have been trying to read up, and it seems as though one of these LEDs may go off thus disturbing a chain of lights. Seems like it is trial and error to find out exactly which one. How much of a pain in the ass is it to get the board off? Any tips to avoid pitfalls with that? is it relatively easy to replace these LEDs?
I messaged Mike from redshift LED and it seems as though he is making more of these LEDs and will notify when they are available to purchase on his website. Unfortunately, I do not have any extra LEDs at the moment or I would love to try and replace them this weekend.

#25483 4 years ago

If I can ask a simple question...
As this game is new to me, I played many games right off the bat since getting it. Last day or so I've been noticing a lot of balls being dumped consistently into the shooter lane inappropriately. Im not so sure it's an opto issue, although I will investigate further. Of note, these were the pinballs that came with the game from the previous owner (so they are used, not new), and when two balls come out at a time (which seems to happen 50%of the time now) they look almost as if they're stuck together...i think they may be magnetized? I have new balls on the way.
Has anyone else noticed that the balls get fairly magnetized on this game? If so, how often are folks finding that they need to change the pinballs out? If it ends up being an opto issue, how often have folks had to change out the opto boards? I see that they carry them at PBL.
Thanks.

#25508 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Work on cabinet and backbox is done.
A lot of things have been improved... Connectors (especially mainboard), Wiring (Cross section), Ground, exchanged bass, electronic coin controller, Decals, Screws, Knocker Assy and many more.
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Next step is to improve the playfield and all the parts beneath... Plastics, XENO, Fingers (ALU), Assemblies, Connetors, Wiring, Mods, and so on.
Man, I love this machine.
regards
Averell

Looks awesome.
I noticed your inspection sticker too!
Nice work.

3 months later
#25915 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Xeno-Head is also finished with a bit more authentic look and is really badass.
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Badass is right! That looks awesome!!!

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#25921 4 years ago

With some contemplation, downsizing and a trade, I am excited to report that I am back in the club!
This game is so great and I have wanted one ever since I let my last one go.
Picked up an SE and its playing great! ...has some neat little toys scattered around, little beacons on the pf and even has Averell's clear speaker panel set (which looks really sharp!).
Yup, Im stoked!!

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#25922 4 years ago

Figured out and got past my first Alien issue with the new game....ah, Alien issues...

Playing a game and thought I smelt smoke, simultaneously noticed the right upper flipper wasn't working, so I powered down and lifed the playfield.

Right upper flipper coil was hot as hell, so hot it bubbled the coil sleeve and the plunger couldn't even move. Noticed the right upper flipper coil was a newer American-style coil (but had been playing fine for last guy and me for at least 30 games) so I didn't think that would be the issue. Also noticed the 3rd 6.3V fuse on the board at the base of the cab had blown. Replaced the fuse and powered on and smoke and hot again. Thought maybe the crimped connectors on the wires to the coil were bad, as they were dark inside, so I snipped them off and did the traditional hard solder to a brand new coil (which the game came with two replacements of the coil that was installed)...same thing, immediate smoke and hot as hell coil and another blown fuse.
So I disconnected the wires to the coil altogether and powered on. Nothing funny, no smoke. Touched the wires to the coil and noticed that when touching/connected, the right upper flipper would immediately fire. Damn, there's unbridled power coursing through these wires! Grabbed the volt meter...there was straight 65v of steady power running through those wires! Checked the resistors and diodes on the boards at the floor of the cabinet, first at the area of the blown fuse and all the others....everything checked out fine. Checked the physical nature of wires themselves, they were fine...checked the molex connector that the wires went to and all looked ok. Started examining the I/O board and I could tell it had been messed with in the past as I could see some evidence of prior work, and also noticed that one of the chips was lifting and looked a bit burnt underneath. So then I started thinking that maybe there was no I/O communication with the aspect relating to the right upper flipper power. Fortunately for me, the gentleman I got the game from had a spare I/O board that the game came with, so I swapped out the current board for the new board. Re-tested the wires and on game turn on there was no immediate steady current at the wires anymore. Ok, good start. So I re-soldered the wires back onto the new coil and powered on...waited, waited, ok, no smoke, pressed start game...no smoke, hit the flipper buttons...and, I'm back in action

Let me ask the group a question.
First, does anything ne have any extra extra I/O boards that they would sell (obviously don't need one now, but to have as a spare)?
Also,
I see that Pinball Life has the high- and low-powered coils for sale. I went ahead and picked a couple extra of each. Does anyone see any reason that I should immediately change the current coil for the Heighway specific coil (again, the current American-style coil had worked well for the last fella and for me for at least 30 games, and now seems to again be working perfectly fine), or just leave the current coil in place? If I were to change out, I assume, at least by the current size of coil and in looking at available under-the-pf pics of other Alien pins, that it would be the high-powered coil. Any confirmation on that??

#25928 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Please can you take a picture of the burned area of the damaged IO-Board?
I'm interested in, if the power protection SMDs (4 upside and 4 downside) had already been bridged with a wire jumper for zero ohm measurement, or not.
[quoted image]
It's also useful to know, what software version this damaged IO-Board had... 0.8 or 0.9.
As Brian mentioned it's uninteresting if the IO-Board used on the Powerdriver is 0.8 or non bridged, but the three boards beneath the playfield should have the bridged SMDs and the latest software version 0.9.
The different between 0.8 and 0.9 is the setting against ghosting LED, but the bridged SMDs should protect the high power source of the coils to prevent damage to Q6 and other parts.

Yes, I will definitely check and take a picture and post.

Interestingly, when I got the game, which was recently, there was a sticker on the other I/O boards (placed over the taller capacitors, probably best place to put it) that had a big "check mark". The one that I exchanged did not.
Curious about this bridged area???
Also interesting is that the larger black board that the I/O fastens to, there was a small bridged component just an inch up and to the left of the I/O board hook-up. A component that caught my eye and wasn't present on the backup larger black board that also came with the game.

The I/O board that was removed was reportedly updated to 0.9. I dare not put back in now to check as it was a potential fire starter. One thing is for sure, with the new I/O board, there is no longer any inappropriate power surging through any wires. All appears cool and quiet.

In light of everything seeming to work perfectly fine right now, should I absolutely update my system to ensure this new board is 0.9? I did play several games since changing the board, the games went/played fine, no obvious issues, and after the games I lifted the pf to check everything out and all seemed normal, cool, quiet, etc. Not one issue to find.

To be honest, i've never had to update this game (have now lucked out twice to have the game with newest code installed already). Is that a fairly easy update? I suppose download newest code from a website to a FAT32 thumb drive and place in an available USB? Anyone have a link to the 1.2 / 0.9 code and a brief fail-safe tutorial for downloading and uploading the code.
Thanks!!

#25929 4 years ago

Also, any consensus on whether for not it's imperative to have the Heighway specific coils on the game? As opposed to not. ...and if so, the right upper flipper should be a Heighway high-power coil, correct? I do have some of them coming to me from Pinball Life website that I'll have available to me soon, if needed.

#25930 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Please can you take a picture of the burned area of the damaged IO-Board?
I'm interested in, if the power protection SMDs (4 upside and 4 downside) had already been bridged with a wire jumper for zero ohm measurement, or not.
[quoted image]
It's also useful to know, what software version this damaged IO-Board had... 0.8 or 0.9.
As Brian mentioned it's uninteresting if the IO-Board used on the Powerdriver is 0.8 or non bridged, but the three boards beneath the playfield should have the bridged SMDs and the latest software version 0.9.
The different between 0.8 and 0.9 is the setting against ghosting LED, but the bridged SMDs should protect the high power source of the coils to prevent damage to Q6 and other parts.

For my own future knowledge, would you be willing to take a picture of your I/O board? I'd love to know if they are supposed to be bridged, and how that's supposed to look, if so.
Thanks!!

#25932 4 years ago

I see now the "bridged" area that Averell was speaking about (can see in the pics).
I took pictures of the board (front and back) that was causing the trouble. You can see the bringing area Averall was referring to on front and back. In the pics you can also see a close-up of the component/chip that was burnt-appearing and lifting (near the small capacitors). The SMD area with the "bridging" looks ok.
I also took a pic of the new I/O board which is now installed. Looks like the bridging across those SMDs is in place. Sounds like that is a good thing to find! (thank you Averell for bringing that up, as I assume there must be some out there without that).
Interestingly, I also showed the small component on the bigger black board just above and left of the I/O board. Says JP201. Has some solder bridging on top as you can see. Interesting. Also interesting is that this component is NOT present on the "spare board" that came along "NIB" with the game. Wonder what this part is and what it's for???

Faust Thanks for your reply. I don't seem to have a flicker problem, which is great, so ill leave the updating alone for now. Again, I appreciate you response.

I will keep the old board and try and repair this burnt-appearing area. Anyone know exactly what part/piece that is that looks bad?
Chip
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#25935 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

J201 is missing on the big PCB, it's a replacement part from Pinball Brothers.
Coil should be used as recommended, so use a Heighway Coil like in the other Flipper-Assys.
[quoted image]

Thanks for your reply. I wonder what the role of that replacement part is (JP201), and what the outcome would be if it was not installed, like on the newer larger PCB boards.
I do have 1.2 installed, so I guess if I wanted to it's all I/O board updated from the coindoor selection buttons, am I understanding you correct on that?
Thank you for the coil recommendation. I had figured as much. I noticed that the two lower flippers use the larger, high power coil, or so it looks, on my game, there appears to be a smaller lower power coil for the upper left flipper and a larger sized coil on the right upper flipper (the one in question). I assume that it is going to be a larger, Heighway-brand high-power coil replacement on the right upper flipper (same as lower flippers) am I correct?

#25940 4 years ago
Quoted from Per_:

Some time ago, I published the following documentation which describes the functionality and components of the I/O board:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ao2CbfOvs38FoTiS5es_TYa7KBCl
The burned transistor Q12 on your board is switching the current for the Coil 2 Output. It is a n-channel MOSFET PSMN039-100YS (100V, 28A). Unfortunately these transistors shorten when they melt, causing constant current at 70V through the attached coil - which is not healthy.
As the general 70V coil power is supplied by the transistor Q1 (an FQB22P10TM p-channel MOSFET), this one also becomes (too) hot and melts.
I saw (and replaced) some melted coil transistors on I/O boards. Sometimes the protection diode (here D18) is also dead/shortened.
The cause is unknown - due to the circuit design, various options are possible:
- Shortend output, i.e. the wiring from the board to the coils is damaged
- Unsuitable transistor, there are similar models which can manage higher currents and voltages
- Bad control circuit, leading to unhealthy transitions during on/off switching (which happens a lot as the coils are pulsed by PWM), see post above.
- My guess is the fact, that the transistors are fully controlled by the I/O board CPU, so finally by software. If the I/O board code stops working as intended (for whatever reason) the transistor may be switched on too long. There are different security mechanisms to prevent this, like a "whatchdog" which restarts the CPU if the program code freezes.
And there are hardware overcurrent protections for the coil transistors and also for the 70V general power implemented on the board. Both do not work as they should, as your board shows. Ironically the coil transistor protection was disabled with the bridging wires (and 0 Ohm resistors) - obviously it made things worse!
Lots of unnecessary/wrong components - what's so bad about good old fuses? There are even nice small SMD types, JJP pinballs are using a lot of them...

Per, that is an amazing write-up on the I/O boards.

#25947 4 years ago
Quoted from Toppers:

I’m officially apart of the club! Just got an alien and I’m having problems with the APC drop targets. They are going up and down rapidly and aggressively. See video link. Thoughts?

Congrats on the new game!
Agree that the coil sleeves look to be in upside down, and thus they are falling/slipping down. I would disconnect the coils, take out the sleeves, put the sleeves back in so they're coming in from the top, reconnect the coils, test and report back.
I'll check my targets and their configuration tomorrow and take a pic if it's any different.

1 week later
#25996 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

It's done - after 7 month the Alien is back in action.
• Acryl laser Speaker Panels
• Airbrush Xeno
• ALU-Flipperfingers and buttons
• Bronce bearings
• Cliffy's
• Coin controller
• Custom made decals (cabinet, ramps and fingers)
• Electropolished stainless steel parts
• Knocker Assy complete
• Mini-Beacons
• Modified and screwed magnet on the tongue (no more loss)
• Mylar protected areas on the playfield
• New cabinet wiring with better diameter
• Non-reflecting glass
• PET-G Plastics and PETG-Backplex
• Reinforced jaw servo
• Signed plastics by Dave Sanders
• Strobe lights
• Visaton BG20 Bass
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Wow. That looks amazing.
Would you be willing to show exactly how you ran and connected the wires for all of your mini beacons??
Thanks! Looks great!

2 weeks later
#26123 4 years ago
Quoted from Faust:

I'm also announcing my next mod: improved airlock display.
I was thinking of making a display enclosure looking like the prototype. I am curious about your opinions[quoted image]

That looks cool!
While I do t have a 3D printer, I always thought it would be a cool idea to also create some sort of dome-like sleeping chamber to lay over the back left plastic, give that area some dimension.

#26134 4 years ago

Thought I'd share some additions I made to my Alien.
Added a Derelict Ship in the back right, a face hugger coming out of one of the pop bumpers, a Drop Ship by the left ramp and an Alien creeping out of the duct work in front of the sleeping chamber. Depending on the game lighting during modes, each addition has a very cool and sometimes very creepy feel.

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#26140 4 years ago

Just completed the Loader Battle mode for the first time last night...what a rush...just awesome!!!! Such a very cool mode

1 week later
#26180 4 years ago
Quoted from Faust:

I made 3 resin 3D printed hypersleep chambers... Will need some work to make the acrylic cover and finishing it up. Its a little rough finish now[quoted image]

Looks really cool!!
Can't wait to see the final result!
If you made a few, I'd definitely be interested in picking one up.

#26181 4 years ago

Question for the group.
Relates to the scoop.

I know that having more than one ball in the Airlock scoop during multiball has been an issue for multiple owners, as it relates to having them kick out in a timely fashion (if at all or completely sometimes in those situations)....which then, if all the balls do come out via ball search coil firing, has a tendency to enter into that bug in the code where you're on a forever ball saver, for the most part.

Not so much a question of that code bug, but a question of what can I do to get that scoop more reliable...
I did go to the settings and increase the scoop coil power by 20%.
I have heard of placing some type of insert inside the scoop to help the balls "line up better" ?
I have heard talk about manipulating the roof of the scoop that shows at the playfield and bending it back some ?
I've heard talk of changing the coil spring at the scoop to a less powerful spring ?

Seems my game certainly has an issue if there's more than 1 ball in the scoop at one time, and id love to resolve this issue.

Is there any sage advice and/or consensus on what is the best, most reliable thing to do to address this issue?
Thank you everybody!

#26183 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

A little confused...are u referring to the scoop, or trough, ball launch?

Airlock scoop

#26186 4 years ago

Thanks guys.
I'll keep fiddling with settings.
MK6PIN , I sent Kneissl a PM to see if he had any of these capacitor mods left around to help out with the potential ps issue experienced during mb.

I know I'm not alone with this issue and it certainly is a PIA... sometimes I find myself just trying to avoid the scoop at all costs during mb as a result...

#26189 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

It makes a world of difference, and adjusting settings isn't going to help the inherent ps sag issues in this case. He did a nice drawing w part #'s of it in the thread somewhere...try searching his avatar name here for his posts in this thread...I'll be at my computer tonight ( easier than my phone) and find it to repost...inexpensive, very effective fix..

Thanks! That's great. And I appreciate it! Probably help the "power sag" I notice with the right upper flipper as well... as I notice that "increasing coil power by x%" to the right upper flipper does not routinely give enough power to reliably make it up the hypersleep ramp, which is also annoying...

Edit: Kneissl did pm me with some pics of his capacitor addition, but I'd still really like to see your post of that as well as it's not entirely clear to me how to connect all of that....that said, it's great to hear it solves the ps sag issue!!

#26196 4 years ago

Update:
So i investigated yesterday, and it looks like the previous owner had already done the capacitor mod addition!! (see below) I looked back to the Pinside market ad and sure enough he even commented to it (I just didn't know what that was, but I do now).

One thing that happened early after getting this particular game (which I posted a few weeks ago with pics) was some chips on the center I/O board fried and took the right upper flipper coil with it (in smoke). Fortunately the seller included another I/O board, I exchanged it and changed the right upper flipper coil and coil sleeve and have been essentially good to go since. One thing I noted at that time, was that the coil for the right upper flipper was different than the others (non-Heighway, see attached picture) and there were replacements of this style coil in the goodie bag of things from the seller that I was able to replace with.

So, I will say, all in all, the game plays well (outside of typical things we all seem to experience). But, this still leaves the problem of the scoop being unable to reliably kick out balls if there are more than 1 ball in there (during multi ball), AND the power for the right upper flipper is just lame (can almost never get the ball up the left hypersleep ramp).

Seems that the scoop issue is mechanical in some way, Im just not sure how to solve the issue and would love any additional advice.

AND, after exploring around the machine yesterday, I think the issue of the right upper flipper power not getting the ball up the hypersleep ramp may have to do with the coil itself....it's a non-Heighway coil so maybe the style is just a bad match/replacement choice?? (Note, I did explore the coil, coil sleeve, coil stop and wiring, and all seemed fine, smooth, attached and clean).
Ive tried to find the higher power flipper coils (CO10), but for the very few places that sell Alien parts online, it seems they only sell the low power coil (CO30) and a high power alternative (CO20).

Any suggestions regarding replacement alternatives to this right upper flipper coil?? If the Heighway CO10 coils are not available anymore, does anyone think the high power CO20 would be an ok alternative? If not, does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a better alternative coil to what I have in there now?? Id really love to resolve these two issues....

Thank you all.
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#26198 4 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Did you get that from bladefury? My gut is telling me that was my Alien. (pink ziptie around those caps.) Are you sure your replacement io board was 100%?

Yes sir, I did. Good eye!!
The I/O board replacement that came with the game looked new-ish and I couldn't see anything grossly wrong with it. I put it in after the first one fried out some mosfets and no more smoke, blown fuses and everything worked/fired smoothly since. Just these two remaining issues...
I did pick up an extra I/O board since that time (at an uncomfortable price, but hey, when you need one you need one), and I suppose I could try and install/swap that this afternoon and see if that makes any difference...if that's what your thinking...

I've noticed that the Heighway coils have no diodes (all diodes are soldered on the powerdriver) and I'm curious if the diodes on this current replacement coil are somehow preventing the full potential power of the coil at this flipper? I suppose I could test this by swapping out the coil from the upper left flipper to the upper right and see if that makes a difference...

#26201 4 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
You can maybe ball park your way to a good replacement with this or something similar, check resistance and maybe the # of windings can be found for the Heighway coil? I forget if they were labeled.

Well, interestingly, I did a swap out for the newest I/O board that I received recently and did some test plays with the glass off...and, wouldn't you know it...not perfect, but much better performance to that right upper flipper. Made it up the ramp 30% of the time (which beats <5% of the time)... temperamental I/O boards I tell ya...but a definite difference.

Thanks for your comment to the flipper coils, I will look into that.
That said, it would be nice to see what folks are exchanging their CO10 flipper coils for when replacement is needed since it seems those could are no longer obtainable.

#26202 4 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
You can maybe ball park your way to a good replacement with this or something similar, check resistance and maybe the # of windings can be found for the Heighway coil? I forget if they were labeled.

Btw, that is a seriously awesome flipper coil chart!!! Thank you for posting that!

#26205 4 years ago

Thanks Kneissl and thanks Manic

I do think there may have been something not quite right with the original I/O board replacement, as this newest one I just popped in does seem to carry a bit more power...
That said, I'll also probably try that WMS coil as well to see if there's a notable difference and report back. If it works well, then maybe that might be a replacement that could work for others should the need arises to replace any failed Heighway CO10 flipper coils.

Thanks again for your time and comments!!!

#26211 4 years ago

Just completed the Self Destruct mode and OMG is that mode awesome!!!! I hadn't completed it before, and had no idea it had a second half to the mode where you blast that hitch-hiking alien into space then do a victory lap across all shots for extra points....so cool!!

#26237 4 years ago

So now that I know I have good power supply as it appears I have @Kneissl's capacitor mod already installed, any ideas on how I can improve my Airlock scoop??
Again, as soon as more than 1 ball gets in there at one time (during mb), there's a 85%+ chance neither of them are coming out...and then after it stops trying on ball search, I have to magnet them out.

I've tried increasing the scoop coil power incrementally, but similar results.
Has anyone installed a different scoop altogether? Has anyone tried a different coil?
Could it be that the balls are not lined up well in there (i.e. staggered) and that's the issue? I know some have added an insert, but it's not clear to me...
Any suggestions??
Thanks!!

#26240 4 years ago

Thanks for these suggestions, I will definitely check into these things. Good thoughts. And I have a spare I/O board, so I can test that as well.

No insert in mine, best I know of. But I've heard of this insert and if everything else checks out ok, I'd love to know how to add that and just what that insert is to try that possible solution.
Thank you again for the suggestions.

#26249 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I'm sorry if I missed it, but what is happening when trying to kick out a ball when there are multiple in there?
My scope, didn't eject well when I first got it. I played around with settings and stuff and the thing that helped mine was to bend the top curved part up a but and then the ball , mostly, eject fine. I get a couple of hick-up occasionally still.
For reference mine doesn't have the plastic part in it.

The balls in the scoop, when the coil fires, make it almost to the top (before they would curve around to fire out)... I can just about see the top ball when it happens, but it just doesn't make it out. I too have called it "ball hiccups" when the coil keeps trying to fire to get them out to no avail...single ball in the scoop, never a problem.
I have a spare I/O board and coil with coil sleeve and I'm going to try and exchange these items at this location at the next opportunity in hopes of better performance per @MK6PIN's suggestion.

Thank you for your suggestion regarding bending the top of the scoop back, I though I recalled someone saying that in the past.
What did you use to bend the top curved part up a bit? Would you be willing to show/post a picture.

(Pinball Life and FreePlay low and high power coils are the smaller coils...it's turning out that no one at the current time has the larger CO10 flipper coils available, which is a bummer)

Thanks again everyone.

#26251 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I just used some regular pliers and I had some rubber (like garden hose type rubber) acting to protect the metal.
Here are a couple of pics, not sure how helpful they will be, but.. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Appreciate you posting the pics! ...wanted to get an idea of how high you bent the top part back.

#26264 4 years ago

My first Alien was a later build LE, which I ended up selling. No issues with multiple balls coming out of Airlock during mb. My new game is an SE that has had a few owners before me. I'd have to check, but think it's a bit earlier build. And airlock scoop with greater than 1 ball is trouble.

For anyone with this insert and 3D printing capabilities, I'd be more than happy to do business to acquire one of these!!

The look and sound of the "hiccup" of the balls in the scoop when the coil fires to try and try and get them out, looks like the balls are disorganized in there...makes me think that there's definitely something to ensuring they are 'lined up" well in there when there is more than one.

#26270 4 years ago
Quoted from ORF:

Had a lot of problems like yours. They became more and more bad until it was not possible to play multiball without removing glas and fish out the balls.
My MAIN problem was a bad bent switch lever.
This lever made a shelf for the ball aprox 15mm over the scoop bottom.
When the next ball went down the hole it placed it self halfway in the side scoop stacking them at 45 degree angels, witch meant that al the force from the coil punch was moving the balls in all directions but upwards. Also the plunger only hit the ball in the very end of it's stroke weakening the push even more.
Second problem was the plasticpiece. This does make the balls stack up but it also moves the ball away from the centerhole in the bottom of the scoop wich in turn prevent the plunger from hitting the ball correct and instead, when hitting off-center, makes the ball spin like crasy comming up on the playfield.
Also when the first ball get all the way down to the bottom the stacking is no longer a problem as second ball is preventing anny ball
from the side scoop to block the way up.
I made the following changes to get all this fixed:
- New placement of the switch and also exchanged for a "fork-style" making it more robust and also more reliably.
- Rasped/filed down the plastic so the ball will acctuallly get all the way down in the cut-out in the bottom and also get the maximum force from the plunger and does not spin nearly as much when coming up on th playfield.(compare it to the picture from faust)
This changes gives me a perfect function in the scoop and even a couple of times has been able to push out 4 balls in 2 atempts at -20% coilpower.
I would advice you to check the switch lever first thing...
I do not tink that a 3d printed piece can handle the force from the plunged balls...
ORF...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for this detailed explanation!!
I will certainly add looking into that switch.
That fork style looks very cool...not sure I've seen switch like that before, but I like it!

#26291 4 years ago

So with the "Alien" mode inserts on the left, and the "Aliens" mode inserts on the right, i opted to place the respective spacecraft placards on the front of the cabinet (The USCSS Nostromo on the left, and the USS Sulaco on the right (attached reversibly with double sided tape)). I think this adds adds integration of the ships into the game and gives a cool look to the face of the machine.
Also I wanted to share a couple other playfield additions, namely Jonesy the cat hovering over on the right mocking all the shots you miss while you try and catch him, and a Micro APC vehicle that i attached to a hovering aluminum strip above the APC targets.
I think these additions look cool, are non-obstructive to gameplay and add some additional integration to the whole experience.
IMG_20200314_180311 (resized).jpgIMG_20200314_180311 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200314_180347 (resized).jpgIMG_20200314_180347 (resized).jpgIMG_20200314_180416 (resized).jpgIMG_20200314_180416 (resized).jpg

#26293 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Here's my solution for the problems with the scoop in the airlock.
I will cut a piece of stainless steel with a 28 mm hole and weld it by laser to the small support ramp to close the bracket on top.
Then it's impossible that the balls may fall back from the top into the support ramp even if four balls were inside.
[quoted image]

Looks cool, and good idea!
With this idea, one thought to avoid the chance that the ball from the xeno > scoop doesn't gets trapped at the lower sides of that circlular cut, is to keep the circular arch up top (which satisfies the idea you had in your earlier post to keep the upper most balls in the scoop from falling into this ramp), and bring that cut straight down (forming a shape like an arch).
You can still add that piece of plastic at the base as you mentioned in your earlier post, allowing ample room for the ball to pass from the xeno to the scoop, while still preventing stacking balls in the scoop from falling back into that xeno platform.
Keep us posted!!

#26297 4 years ago
Quoted from Faust:

Ive added the spaceship in this corner.[quoted image]

That ship looks cool there!

#26302 4 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

You could maybe try a WMS FL 11629 coil. These are the hella powerful blue ones and it's a dual-wound with three lugs and and two diodes like the one in your pic.

This was the ticket!!!!
I received the game with Heighway style coils on all but the right upper flipper, and in it's place was the red FL-11630. I was having the most difficult time having enough power to get up the middle ramp and it was driving me crazy. I did exchange an IO board and I'll admit it did help a smidge, but still not great.
As suggested by Manic I tried the blue FL-11629 coil at that site and that did it! Getting up that ramp 100% now (and with this coil, it's gets up there with a purpose!)...and that also means that for the first time ever I entered into Hypersleep multiball!!!
A whole new world has opened up for me now!
Have it on factory settings strength, but could probably even dial it down a notch... Just awesome. Thx again for that suggestion!!!!

Regarding the scoop issue I was having (more than 1 ball in the scoop = trouble/not getting them out during multiball)...
I ended up disassembling the scoop mech and taking a close look...

Turns out I do have the plastic insert..ok, good, got that mystery solved. Scoop itself (shape, welds, etc) and insert both looked in good condition. I then examined the balls as they fell into the scoop and they all line up well. I noted that the balls fall all the way to the end and the lowest ball sits evenly at that hole at the bottom (so the plunger does get a dead-on hit) and the plunger looked fairly centered (was not hitting the ball off-center). So on exam, nothing obvious at the scoop mech itself...

Regardless, per some good recommendations over this past week here in this thread I made some moves... I did bend the roof of the scoop back a hair, and then I went ahead and changed out the coil for a new coil and coil sleeve. I paid attention to the switch at the bottom of the scoop and it did seem pushed in a bit more than it needed to be (maybe that was causing the second ball to be misaligned somehow), so I brought that switch out a bit to give more room but still easily triggered.

Now, all that said, I did notice one other thing...a possible obstruction. The Cliffy that was installed had a torn edge on the right that leads into the scoop and as a result was bent to hell with a projecting lip sticking out about 3/4 of a cm...and on the left it was not torn but was also bent to shit with a lip sticking out about 1/2 of a cm. So I just took that Cliffy out, contacted Cliffy and have a new one on the way.

With all that above, I now have a scoop that seems to be finally functioning well. 2 balls in the scoop, no problem!! ...more than 2?? I don't know yet!! I'm just happy as hell I haven't had to magnet out balls from the scoop this week!!

#26303 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Can someone tell me what Paxton and Matthews are saying at the end of acid rain mode when failed?
Thanks

At the end of "Acid Burn" mode (when/if failed), the character Dallas is with his crew at the lowest deck after the acid from the alien burnt it's way through the floor(s). He examines the burnt ceiling with a crew members writing pen...when he's done poking around, he gives it back to that crew member and says "...here's your pen back."

#26309 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Maybe I’m mistaken about end of the mod, but what I want to know is what Paxton is saying and then Matthews (sergent apone, the black guy with his cigare) which some words seem to be only readable on his lips (coz inaudible)

Ah, yeah, if you fail during Combat Drop...Paxton says "how do I get out of this Chicken-Shit outfit?!" And then it frames over to the Sergeant who says "get over here...come here!"...then the clip goes on without sound for another second where the Sergeant is still saying something else/finishing his rant to Paxton....I can't quite remember what is fully said during that non-audio portion....I would have to see the movie to remind me.

#26314 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

After testing a while here's my final solution for the airlock popper issue.
It's a piece of POM in 10 mm screwed to the bracket.
Now it works perfect with normal settings to eject one, two or three balls.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Well done man. That looks awesome. Elegant solution.
I may do the same!!
Btw, can you tell us the exact dimensions you used in the final product...and what tool you found best to cut the plastic? Thx!!

#26316 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Is there some cool mods for this one? Just wondering.
And why this game has not a club thread?

This is the club thread, welcome!

As far as mods, most have added ships, APC vehicles, characters, etc from online toy stores carrying Alien(s) movie toys (there are many companies through the years have made them, lots of choices online).

There are some folks/owners on here that have made some great additions, however, such as clear acrylic speaker panels and Xeno flashers to name a recent few...just have to peel through the thread a bit to find a lot of great ideas....there's a couple guys now that are working on creating a hypersleep chamber (and I can't wait to see their final product, cuz I want one!)

#26317 4 years ago
Quoted from dung:

Hrm, no luck with my drop targets. Plugged in or unplugged it now registers all three as active. Worse i think one of my io boards failed. Game is cursed....

Do you have a spare IO board to try out?

#26319 4 years ago
Quoted from dung:

I do and swapped it in. However 1 io board and 1 computer failed on this pos and not making much progress on getting it working.

Did you get the pictures you needed from the earlier post to compare with what you are looking at??

#26324 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Good job. However what was the issue?
What are the built date of your games guys? I think I have one of the last one built, don’t know if some issues were fixed with time and issue reports.

The issue that Averell is adrressing here is a not a uniformly experienced problem, but a known issue that has been experienced by some when there are multiple balls in the scoop at one time (encountered during multi-ball).

The ramp/trough from the Xeno (when he eats the ball) leads to the scoop, directing the ball to the scoop. The pathway of this trough is rather large and tall in comparison to the ball itself.

When there are 3+ balls in the scoop, there is the opportunity/potential for those stacking balls to "fall" laterally into the Xeno trough as opposed to directly out of the scoop (which may inhibit balls from routinely and reliably ejecting from scoop, and rather "hiccup" in the scoop in a disorganized manner when the coil and plunger fire). This insert that he created is at the end of the Xeno scoop and essentially shortens the Xeno 'roof" at the end of the Xeno trough and acts as a continuation of the side/wall of the scoop to prevent/inhibit any stacking balls in the scoop from falling laterally...all in an effort to more reliably have multiple balls eject during multi-ball.

It's a great solution he came up with. As a matter of fact, due to his above post, I went ahead and ordered a 10mm piece of POM to do the same in the event I too notice issues with 3+ balls moving forward.

#26337 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

I have made a few games tonight and there is no more interference at all.
The Airlock works really great now and every Multiball can be played out easily.

That's awesome to hear! Again, nice solution with that POM

#26339 4 years ago

Vent 1 activates Sentry Guns...so let that area be dedicated to the effort!
Wanted to share some non-obstructive, reversible items I recently added. With light out and game on, it all looks really cool!
IMG_20200319_213424 (resized).jpgIMG_20200319_213424 (resized).jpgIMG_20200319_213357 (resized).jpgIMG_20200319_213357 (resized).jpgIMG_20200319_214443 (resized).jpgIMG_20200319_214443 (resized).jpg

#26342 4 years ago
Quoted from Faust:

Nice, where did you get it?

Hey Felix, thanks! I picked it up here:

https://toywiz.com/neca-aliens-uscm-arsenal-weapons-7-inch-accessory-pack/

I opted to shorten the tripod of the Sentry Gun a bit to get the height I wanted, and I double-sided taped the computers to a thin strip of aluminum that I hung under a hex bolt from the left ramp.
I really like how it turned out!

#26349 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

You’ve added 2 orange bulbs at the end the ramps on the plastics? Where did you connect them?

These mini beacon lights were purchased and attached by the previous owner. There's a third one also above the Airlock LCD screen. The wires to these smaller beacons run through and under the playfield, are connected in a series to each other (sort of daisy-chained) via tertiary wire that ultimately connects with the large beacon lights that sit on top of the backbox.
In this thread, about 10 or so pages back, are some posts with URLs to websites that carry them...I think they're from Germany.

#26357 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Any questions regarding rules of the game can be answered with the latest rulesheet.
This is also available at IPDB ALIEN.
[quoted image]

That's just such a great compilation of information...from movie/Alien facts to detailed info of the pinball machine itself...just awesome.
Thanks so much for creating and sharing that!!!

#26359 4 years ago
Quoted from BackAlleyMatt:

I just finished making the open eggs version. Same material we made the originals out of and same wash on them.[quoted image][quoted image]

Badass. I ordered 2 of em.

#26365 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

In fact I do not understand if it is for replacing bumper one or to sit as a decor?

Its a decorative pop bumper cap that can be placed on any of the three pop bumpers.
On one of my pop bumper caps I have a small facehugger coming around the top of it. It looks cool, but will make a lot more sense now than I'm able to get an "open egg" one!

#26369 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I decided on one to start. I think having 2 "unhatched" with 1 hatched and ready to attack brings even more life up there. Can't wait to see it in person..

Completely agree and thinking the same.
Figured I'd put one in and keep a spare for future use if ever needed. So used to collecting "backup parts" for this game, it's become a habit!! Haha...

#26383 4 years ago

Open egg!

IMG_20200323_194523 (resized).jpgIMG_20200323_194523 (resized).jpg
#26388 4 years ago
Quoted from Indypin:

Does the new open egg come with the facehugger attached, or is that an added mod?

Was a facehugger I attached on with glue. I think it really gives a cool look!!
Can get it several places, but got it from this creature pack:
https://toywiz.com/neca-aliens-30th-anniversary-7-inch-deluxe-creature-pack/

The clear washer was attached when I got the game...I figured it was some form of airball protector from the pops.

#26395 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Yep...do you have kneissl's game? He's the first to do that, I believe...

Yessir, this was originally @Kneissl's game. I acquired it relatively recently from a fellow Pinsider. It's my second time to own this title and this specific game has been great. The only real change I had to make was to change the replacement coil at the right upper flipper to the stronger blue WMS FL-11629 coil (dialed in at 10% less strength), and now I'm hitting that hypersleep ramp like a champ! I'm really grateful for all the thoughtful care that went into this particular game before I acquired it. This is such an awesome game, and I absolutely regretted selling my first one. I'm so happy to have this game back at the house... I don't think I'll ever let this one go!

#26409 4 years ago

OK, so i was inspired by that open egg...so here's an idea that I had to try.
The pics don't do it full justice, and while it does obscure a portion of the right back wall picture, at the helm you can still see the LV lanes and the orbit nicely.
Hard to tell from these pics, but the contrast and placement of everything in this right back corner is better appreciated in person and in the dark with the game on it's scary looking and bad to the bone!
So try and burn those eggs!!!

IMG_20200327_133237 (resized).jpgIMG_20200327_133237 (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#26411 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Nice buddy...but it becomes a bit cluttered for me

I hear you, and while its hard to fully appreciate from the pics, in person it looks well positioned and proportioned, insane and cool.
At least for right now, I'm really digging it )

#26418 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

It's the little things...Matt is amazing!!!
Forgot how complex and well made they were!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The open egg looks amazing in the back right, especially with those lighted side blades! Very cool!!

#26425 4 years ago

Just a couple pics of the Queen under the playfield lights. Scary and creepy!
I like the way the color of the pops bounces off the palms of her claw hands...
I like how it almost "disappears" in the blue light...then BAM!
IMG_20200328_054046 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054046 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200328_054135_1 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054135_1 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054131 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054131 (resized).jpgimage-2 (resized).jpgimage-2 (resized).jpgIMG_20200327_233514 (resized).jpgIMG_20200327_233514 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054044 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054044 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200328_054055 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054055 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054120 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054120 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054020 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_054020 (resized).jpg
#26426 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Agreed...I'm trying to keep the character in theme with the movie...did the facehuggers come out only if a host was available, or after awhile just creep out on their own, looking for victims?
I can't remember off hand. Seems I remember seeing them in the open egg moving under a thin membrane then bam. Any help appreciated on this trivia question.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Agreed...I'm trying to keep the character in theme with the movie...did the facehuggers come out only if a host was available, or after awhile just creep out on their own, looking for victims?
I can't remember off hand. Seems I remember seeing them in the open egg moving under a thin membrane then bam. Any help appreciated on this trivia question.

Good question.
These are some "Fandom" facts...

Prior to detecting a host, Facehuggers are actually inert and lifeless within their Ovomorph. When the Egg detects a host nearby, it will transfer all of the remaining bio-electric potential of its acidic blood to the Facehugger, and it is only then that the creature becomes "alive". The Egg will then open and the creature will launch itself at the victim.

Once outside of the Egg, Facehuggers use a similar set of thermoauditory senses as the adult Xenomorph to track and close in on their prey. Typically, Facehuggers rely on the curiosity or ignorance of the potential host to draw them near to the Egg prior to release, thereby allowing for a lightning-fast pounce that gives the victim virtually no time to escape. However, they are more than capable of pursuing a fleeing host, an act they will carry out with relentless persistence; Facehuggers will chase down their prey with little consideration for their own safety or survival. They are adept climbers and jumpers, using these abilities to quickly overwhelm their victims before they can react. Although Facehuggers can survive outside of their Egg without implanting for a period of time — up to 120 hours has been recorded — this is not thought to be common.

#26439 4 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

With all this time at home, I finally had a chance to deal with some of the issues my game is having. But after replacing the USB cables, and swapping out an IO board, I am still having issues with a few lamps in the upper playfield that do not light. And the middle pop bumper doesn't fire most of the time.
The lights do not work in lamp test, but the pop bumper coil does fire in coil test.
The image attached shows lamp test.
Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Gabe[quoted image]

There are several "chains" of lights that when you go to lamp tests are numbered/lettered 1-A, 1-B, 2-A, 2-B, etc. There was a post a while back that had them listed, but this can also be seen in the individual lamp test.... I do wish I could find that post. But essentially the very first LED in that "chain" that fails to light/work is usually the culprit, and it has likely gone bad and needs to be replaced. Replacement of this LED (which is very easy, if not done before, just need to loosen or sometimes remove a couple of the screws holding the board to the playfield near that light to gain physical access to that light, the LED slides out and the new one slides in, there's only one way to go in so you can't replace it incorrectly) usually will fix the issue for that light and the other lights on that chain. Sometimes (infrequently) it's a couple LEDs within that chain (note that all it takes is one LED on that chain of lights to mess the whole chain up/interferes with the communication along that chain).

I remember on my last game, I had a light on this very chain go funny (would only go green, never color change, from the Super, across the scoop stand-ups, the Xeno to the close pop bumper), and if I remember right, in my case (much like on yours) it was the LED at the Super insert light (or maybe the light just to the left of the Super by the left far ramp?)...but right around there.

Would recommend replacing that first non-functional LED, and work your way along that "chain" if needed (but it very well may be just that one LED). Again, it will make more sense - these "chains" of lights - once you enter into the individual lamp test.
Keep us posted!

Edit:
Found the post with the lamp matrix, it's under the technical subsection:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair

#26448 4 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

Thank you very much for this, I forgot to look on pinwiki!
I can try swapping out LEDs, but I don't think that is my issue. I booted the game up this morning and went into lamp mode, and all the lights are working in test. But when I play a game, they work sometimes, they show the wrong color sometimes, and frequently don't work at all. The lamps that are usually having issues are 1-B8 through 1-B20.
And also, the middle pop bumper usually doesn't work during a game, but works in test. Which kills Queen's Nest, one of my favorite modes.
In this picture, the stand up targets at the scoop are blue when they shouldn't be.
Could the issue be the playfield board that the IO board plugs into?[quoted image]

Yeah man, this is probably going to be a problem of a single LED. I know it's hard to imagine and I had a hard time wrapping my head around it too. I had almost the same thing happening. What you want to do is find that first LED that's not changing colors appropriately (might be able to see during attract mode) on that chain and then change it out.
In my case (similar to yours) one of the LEDs on the left on that farthest board (that houses the Super insert) was the culprit.
Find that first LED (sounds like it may very well be 1-B8) that's not changing appropriately and change it out...bet that takes care of it!
Please keep us posted!

#26452 4 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Ok thanks
I think pinsider Timebandit builds them too, doesn’t he?
Where is he?

https://redshiftled.com.au/Store.php#!/Alien-Standard-LED-replacement-8-pack/p/152413052/category=31425757

Australia. But unfortunately it looks like he is out of stock right now, but you can always send him a message and ask.

#26477 4 years ago

With the "Alien" modes on the left, and the hypersleep ramp on that left side, I wanted to add the Narcissus ship which Ripley escaped in and floated through deep space in hypersleep until she was rescued. So I decided to optimize the area in-between the left ramps that was otherwise filled with a blank plastic.
IMG_20200403_124035 (resized).jpgIMG_20200403_124035 (resized).jpgIMG_20200403_124018 (resized).jpgIMG_20200403_124018 (resized).jpg

#26489 4 years ago
Quoted from Faust:

I made something new I want to share.
I added lamps on the unused metal ramps (I tried some different colors).
Now I thought it would be a good idea to have a small print that turns these lights on for a specific time when the switch on the top of the ramp is triggered.
So I made a miniature print with my friend that you can hook up to any switch in the game (blue wire).
I added for example a light on the hypersleep chamber 3D peinted unit that lights when the switch is triggered and lights on the 2 ramps.
But you could use this to hook up ligjts or mods to any switch in the game.
Its miniature and also simple (no multi input). With a screwdriver you can tune the ‘on’ time.
[quoted image]

That's awesome!! Great use of those unused ramp flaps!
Are the blue lights connected to the blue wire (under the playfield)...or do the lights connect to that small board and a separate wire comes from the board to the switch? In any event, I like it!!
Would you ever consider bundeling that package to sell to other Alien owners (with various colors)???

#26492 4 years ago
Quoted from Faust:

The lights connect to the small PCB.
It has 1 input wire (blue from any switch) and 12V output.
So you could also hook it up to the switch in the scoop or another ramp.
The blue lights are just an example, you could take also the orange lights or connect to another switch.
I will probably make some kits for the community, but I need some input in what people would like to have.
I will post tomorrow a video of the light in the hypersleep chamber I made, this may be a nice option

Thanks!
Look forward to your video.
Yes, I'd be in for a kit, I'd probably take two of them for sure. This seems like an excellent way to utilize those unused ramp flaps! Also, light in the hypersleep chamber sounds very cool.

#26500 4 years ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

If the shooter coils fire, maybe the pin things there is a ball stuck in the shooter lane. Did you check the shooter lane switch was working properly? Maybe it’s always closed

That's a good suggestion.
Agreed, would check the shooter lane switch, esp if you're hearing firing in-between, maybe some adjustments at that switch may help this problem.
If not, maybe issues with the IO board associated with those coils? Have you tried switching out one board for another and see if the problem persists?

#26506 4 years ago

The flippers going briefly dead is certainly unusual...Have you swapped out for a different IO board to that area, even if it's just to take one from the back and temporarily move to the front, to see if problem persists?

11
#26523 4 years ago

Wanted to share some "sheltering in place" results, haha
So I really wanted to do something for the ramps...
So I traced the ramp bases, created some pics on photoshop of corridors inside the Nostromo, made some vinyl sticker prints, placed mylar over those sticker cut-outs and put them in their place...along with a pic of the LV-426 system at the center plastic in between the left ramps.
I think it turned out pretty cool.
IMG_20200406_132240 (resized).jpgIMG_20200406_132240 (resized).jpgIMG_20200406_140903 (resized).jpgIMG_20200406_140903 (resized).jpgIMG_20200410_213846 (resized).jpgIMG_20200410_213846 (resized).jpgimage000000_14~2 (resized).jpgimage000000_14~2 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_094229 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_094229 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153146 copy (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153146 copy (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153322 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153322 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153225 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153225 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153227 copy (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153227 copy (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_162259 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_162259 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_162228 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_162228 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200413_153326 (resized).jpgIMG_20200413_153326 (resized).jpg
#26526 4 years ago
Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:

Those look fantastic, I’d love to buy a set as well if they were for sale...

Thanks guys! After a tedious tracing of the base of the ramps, a buddy of mine and I put it into CAD, and then we transferred those spec outlines into Photoshop, where we took pictures of Nostromo corridors and doors and chose which images we thought would be best. We chose an eerie grated design for the left and a more sterile clean and reflective corridor for the hypersleep ramp, and it seemed perfect to have a standard airlock door at the right horseshoe ramp. With those pictures we altered some colors and warped and twisted the designs so that they fit nicely and matched cleanly with the angles of the ramps from the player's perspective and worked well with the colors of the surrounding playfield, or so we felt.
Interestingly enough, I was able to get some high quality vinyl sticker printouts right at my local FedEx. I got a big square sheet of mylar from Marco, outlined the mylar, cut it out and then applied it to the top to protect the graphics (also gave it a nice shine). For the center plastic art, I actually used that same type of vinyl sticker and placed it on top. I know there's a lot of ways to "recreate" plastics/plastic designs, and I suppose getting a reverse printed sticker that has top adhesive and put that underneath could certainly be a nice option too, but I just chose to do it this way as it seemed to be the easiest and it doesn't stand out as unfitting when you look across the playfield.

If you guys would like a set, I'd be happy to make them for you à la carte, just give me a PM and I'm sure we could work it out. Alternatively, anyone who wants just the files (which are to scale and can be directly taken/emailed to your local FedEx or other store capable of printing on adhesive vinyl), let me know and I'd be more than happy to email those files to you.

#26529 4 years ago
Quoted from Nethawk86:

Holy crap is that playfield dimpled!!!! WOW!

Hahaha... Yeah, that one shot taken low to show the horseshoe ramp really caught the light and really made the playfield look insanely dimpled. I totally agree with the visual on that, and on those particular pics I noticed that too! Fortunately, when you look at the playfield itself it looks smooth, clean and gorgeous. But yeah, even though this game sees a fair amount of action, I agree, that picture really makes the pf look like a pothole fiesta!!

#26538 4 years ago

That is badass and I'm down for some single chamber action.
Great work! Count me in!!!

#26551 4 years ago
Quoted from ulmpharmd:

I could talk to Matt w Backalley creations to do a group paint job on the sleep chambers if y’all want?

Oh heck yes...

1 week later
#26588 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

So...just an informational for all regarding the LED serial problems (if you encounter it):
After replacing my broken up-post (easy) I suddenly lost a string of LEDS several games later (think she was laying in wait...it had been so long since a problem).
Fix seemed easy enough - single lamp test, find the offender (first fail) and replace it or the one just prior. I've done this twice in the past.
This time, it was A/1 string, fourth in, I believe. Lives on the huge, center, unobtainium. PITA to remove board. Anyway, got to it, changed the "dead" one...nothing. Changed the one before it in the string, nothing. Scratched my head, and decided to start swapping several in the string at different points. Still couldn't get them to light past the original 3. Started to panic that the board itself had a broken trace or something...time for a break.
On my 4th go at it, I decided on a whim to take a known working LED from ANOTHER string and just start working down the path. When I got to the 10th LED in the string (well behind the "failed" one) the board came back to life!!!!.
Before I smashed the offender, put a meter on it, finding a ground short.
Moral of my story - There is a chance the failed LED can be anywhere in the string, not just in proximity to the "last good bulb" in test mode.
2nd moral of the story - Anytime you work on your properly laced game (USB), remember to relace everything as prior. If not, you may leave a loop dangling, which could catch on the PC plexi cover shield when relifting playfield - ripping the connector off of an I/O board (ask me how I know....actually, don't ask as I'm still pissed).
She's back up and running (had a spare I/O board), playing great. Guess it was a friendly reminder of "who was boss".......another lesson in Alienland....

Excellent info...can't believe the offending LED was so far away from what would have been the suspected culprit!! You mentioned you found a ground short...how and where did you diagnose and subsequently address/fix that? (for future knowledge). Also, what a gutwrenching feeling that must have been lifting up the pf and hearing a board component rip off...ughhhh!!!!! I get a feeling in the pit of my stomach just hearing that story, man...I'm so sorry that happened!! Thank goodness you had a spare IO board!!
Anyway, so happy you got the game back up and running!!

3 weeks later
#26642 3 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Have installed 5 mini beacons. Really cool effect...just frustrated that beacons use is not more integrated in the game.
Can someone tell me when they are used?

For sure in Queens Nest mode, and I believe during Self Destruct mini wizard mode. There may be more, I'm sure others will chime in. But yes, very cool effect!

1 week later
#26668 3 years ago
Quoted from TomDK:

I have such a 3D printed hypersleepchamber but the cover I made ... uhmmm .. looks pretty cheap and is .. lausy.
Someone has a nicer idea ?![quoted image]

Chamber looks great! I've wondered how folks would make a clear lid for that sleep chamber bed...i have seen some videos of people making there 3-D objects, so cool....seems they do make different colored plastics/resins though...do they make a clear plastic/resin? If so, you could make it separate and then glue the two together...if not, maybe a darker grey color to at least visually separate the two pieces (chamber and lid).
Anyway, looks real cool!

2 weeks later
#26722 3 years ago
Quoted from dpeck3:

And my final question and I think I’ve got it covered for a while. What’s the local equivalent on this coil? I need a few. Or do I have to order them from Sweden also, LOL? Thx again.
[quoted image]

Also, the low power coils can be gotten either from free play, or from pinball life. The link to the low power coils at pinball life are below

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PB-C030

Sounds like when your game is in a attract mode all the lights work except at the l and v, is that correct? Most likely, this will be a single LED problem. Note that this also could have happened anywhere on the playfield. One thing that you will notice when an LED goes bad is that either the light won't come on or it will stay just a solid color, I've noticed it's usually green. This most typically indicates that the LED has gone bad, and it will affect the rest of the lights on that chain. Very unlikely that this is a problem at the actual board. The LEDs are available at Free Play, The link is below.

https://www.free-play.se/en/led-lamps/misc/alien-full-throttle-single-led.html

There are particular chains of LEDs that have been well documented and have resurfaced recently. I believe that the most recent Alien document by Averell has included it, but it's also been posted on this thread relatively recently. When you go into the light test, the first light to not function well on a particular chain is usually the culprit. Isolate that LED and change it out. These are somewhat different looking LEDs, but there's only one way to put them in and take them out, so don't worry, you can't mess it up. While usually it's the first malfunctioning light on that chain that is the culprit, on rarer occasions there have been a few of us that have noticed that it's actually a different light on that chain. Changing that bad LED, again usually the first malfunctioning one that doesn't light up appropriately, usually will fix the issue.
Keep us posted!

#26729 3 years ago
Quoted from dpeck3:

The eggs in that area are also a solid color when it locks up. So it doesn’t appear that an LED is out because as I said, everything works fine right when you boot it up but then stops after a couple of seconds. If I start the game quick enough after reboot, they function normally for five or 10 seconds but then lock up. Tried a different I/O board and the same problem. Nothing changed
[quoted image]

Yes, that looks like typical symptoms of the LED chain there in the upper right. One of them has gone bad. By loosening a couple screws on the associated PCB and maybe having to take out one or sometimes two screws, you should be able to get to where you need to get to to change out that light. You won't need a lot of room to slip a light out and a new one in. Shouldn't have to disassemble much if anything at all. Just remember that if you do, to take pictures of where everything is at first, so you put everything back in correct order once your done. Don't worry, once you do this once you'll feel much easier about it moving forward, and you'll have it done and the game back to full LED display soon and you'll be happy you did.
Keep us posted!

#26749 3 years ago

That post of the retrofitted EL panels behind the side panels and back panel from SunKing looks awesome!
I took a look at the site he got the panels and inverter from (is a company in the UK). Looks like there are splitters and extenders that can be purchased along with the EL strips such that you can double up and connect side to side, etc. The inverter that the panel wires would then plug into looks to have a wire coming from it that then plugs into a direct power source... but the plug from the inverter is designed for UK power supply (UK Main power plug).
Anyone know if there's a way around that for here in US, or an alternative suggestion to give that inverter power on this particular machine?

#26754 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Looking is good but sometimes reading is required...
"Most of the Inverters have a choice of power input. This can be mains electricity (UK, US or Euro plugs) or 12V input."
I don't see "Australian" listed (240vac @ 50hz), but that isn't a major problem either since I can simply cut off the non-compatible UK plug (still UK has essentially the same Mains Supply specs), and wire directly to fused AC mains power inside the machine.

I appreciate your reply, however on that site, for that inverter, US plug is not an option, only UK main, that's why I asked

#26760 3 years ago

Thank you all for your replies. Looking back at the recommended inverter that SunKing used and posted, that particular recommended inverter only has UK plug, although it may be able to be hardwired. That said, there appears to be some other options out there to evaluate. I have an SE, and would love to get some EL lights on those panels. Such a great look. Looks like I have some new direction and will keep you all posted.

1 week later
#26823 3 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

Considering that bcd was kindly updating the firmware for us I was going to release the 3Dmodel for all that have a machine so that they could make them up themselves.
I really don't want to manufacture these for sale etc.
Also not to be mass produced for profit. This is for individual owners of the machine. Thanks
https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/games-toys/game-accessories/alien-pinball-display-bezel

Looks awesome. I'd be in for one for sure. I don't have a 3D printer, but if anyone was willing to make one and ship it to me I'd be more than happy to cover the cost.

2 weeks later
#26976 3 years ago

Thanks guys, I am so glad you dig them!!
When I look at archive pictures of my machine and the ramps as they were before, I've gotten so used to the decals being there that the ramps look bare naked without them!! haha.
I am so glad that they made it safely to all that got them and/or downloaded the files...and I'm so I pleased that everyone is enjoying them
It was a fun endeavor!
-Chip

1 week later
#27061 3 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

Have just completed a proto of a Motion Tracker mod.
Sits on the shooter box and has a spinning Weyland logo.
When a ball is placed in the shooter lane a Motion Tracker animation is set off.
Boot sequence
Ingame sequence
[quoted image]

That looks absolutely amazing Andrew!
Seriously cool idea!!! That spinning Weyland/Yutani logo is badass.

1 year later
#29459 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

A perfect end cap
[quoted image]

Wow, that's a beautiful room ya got right there!!! Be hard to leave a room like that!
....I miss my Alien.

1 month later
#29505 1 year ago

If you check post #26395...
After discussing with several individuals on/off pinside at that time (couple years ago) and also needing a replacement coil which was not available, I ultimately replaced that upper right flipper coil with a Blue WMS FL-11629 coil (at 10% less strength on settings).
It was a good replacement and proved durable until I ultimately sold that game (and now have a PB version, but still miss my OG...suppose third time's the charm, such a great game!!).
This above coil was a touch stronger then the original, but that said, even at 10% less strength on settings, it certainly helped with getting the ball up the hypersleep ramp, which was a nice benefit.

That said, that's a good suggestion above. Might be worthwhile to also send a query to the pinball brothers support desk and ask if the current coils that they are using would work well on your game. All just food for thought.
But I also agree with above, likely need to identify what caused that coil to blow less it happen again.
Hope this helps.

It's been a couple years since I've been routinely on this thread.
When I had my last OG, it had really been tailored up nicely by some prior owners from a electromechanical perspective. I remember doing some cool mods to it, and at least at the time, one thing I did I hadn't seen anyone else do, and it's something that I also did on my current PB version...added the Queen in the back right guarding her eggs!!
Reason I bring this up is, number one, I think it's just cool, but number two, wondering if this picture is familiar to anyone who might currently have this HW Alien game, as I'm just curious how the game is doing!??
IMG_20200327_133303 (resized).jpgIMG_20200327_133303 (resized).jpgIMG_20200327_134552 (resized).jpgIMG_20200327_134552 (resized).jpg

#29507 1 year ago
Quoted from offworldon:

ChipScott Sweet Vasquez that queen mod is UNBELIEVABLE!!! If I can get this thing back in action - you will have to sho me how to do it to mine! I did more digging last night and found that post and ordered the FL-11629 coil - the R flipper one is totally locked impossible to move at all - some of the other coils are out too - the APC drop target and some other ones I cant remember- HOPING I blew a fuse and it saved the i/o board but from what I'm reading that is wishful thinking. Do all the I/O boards need to be on the same version number or can i mix em? Thanks for the replies, I'll keep you posted!

It's been a while, but I do remember back with one of the HWY aliens I had there was a time when I saw smoke, powered off, noticed I had a burnt coil and then had to replace one of the I/o boards. It was like striking gold, even finding a new i/o board then, I can't imagine what it's like these days. Some of the current owners will probably need to chime in on that.

#29512 1 year ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Oh I still have it and that mod is definitely the bomb! Sadly may have to part with this game soon. I've loved it for awhile now but just running out of room and might be time for someone else to enjoy it. 2 huge boxes of every spare part and an extra playfield is SO nice to have. That being said, not had one problem with the game or had to replace anything in owning it well over 2 years
[quoted image][quoted image]

That's great! So glad you've enjoyed it. It's a pretty bulletproof game and sounds like it's held up nicely over the last couple years. Yes, I had accumulated A LOT of spare parts and pieces! Lol

12
#29514 1 year ago

Sure. Happy to.

First off, I would say that I thought that the OG cabinet really looked sharp (esp in all black, imo) and with the lit sides, I think that the OG version from a cabinet look standpoint wins. Sure, taking the whole playfield glass and side rail thing off was weird at first, but you get used to it pretty fast.
Back box monitor, I think having the bigger monitor on the HWY version was great. The PB version is smaller. Bigger than stern for sure. I'd say that with this title, bigger is better and so I would give a smidge towards the OG for the larger monitor. Terms of quality of screen projection, I think they're both about the same.

As far as the overall back box, I think that PB seems a lot more sturdy and I like the more traditional size, but I think that this falls more to preference. I remember the locking mechanisms for the head were a bit different on the OG version. PB is just a simple latch in the back. So I'd give a smidge of the vote towards PB on the actual back box.

As far as under the playfield (boards and wiring,etc) the PB version seems to me significantly more cleaned up and refined and I give PB the win on that one.

As far as playfield differences, best I can tell it's really just two main things. The magnet in front of the chestburster shot and the sneak into the scoop from the super jackpot shot. I think that these two really do add a fair amount and I give a hats off to Pinball Brothers for adding those two things. I do think that that is a nice plus towards PB.

As far as the xenomorph action, they both feel about the same. Upon boot up the tongue makes a uncomfortable noise as the magnet tongue is coming out and going back in before the ball one starts. Same, same. I think as the code increases, maybe the chance to capture the ball increases, but for any of us who have actually owned the game, it's a smaller magnet and if the ball is ricocheting around after a xenomorph stand up hit, chances that it actually captures that ball on that magnet can be slim at times, and I think that is just the physics of that shot. So I would actually say that comparing these two versions, it's a wash.

I do think that the scoop functions much better on the PB version. I remember on both OG's I had, sometimes you would have more than one or two balls in the scoop, and the width of the scoop allowed the balls to stagger a bit. This would sometimes result in not all the balls being kicked out and odd numbers of balls and play and sometimes games that would seem to go on for forever, lol. I've not had one issue with the PB version scoop. So in terms of overall scoop, mech and function, I would give PB the win for that.

As far as flipper strength, I would argue that both can be dialed in equally to play the way that you want. So I think that an overall strength and flipper feel, I think it's a wash between the two.

As far as the overall playfield design as it relates to the in playfield LCD, I thought that was absolutely awesome. Especially for the ambush multiball, but in general, sometimes there can be so much going on so fast, it was convenient, at least for a guy like me, to have that visual without having to look up at the monitor. I think that it was a huge miss not having the in play field LCD screen, but I can understand that losing it minimizes the amount of additional issues that that new company would have to deal with. More money, more problems kind of mentality I guess. But a loss all the same. I give the OG 2 big thumbs up for the in-playfield LCD screen. I do suppose that it is convenient to see the weapons lit though, I will give credit to a good decision if a decision had to be made to fill that area with something, I think PB chose wisely.

As far as targets. The first iteration of the PB stand-up targets had a lot of issues, but they have refined them. I believe I'm currently using what they call the "third generation" stand up targets and they've worked great and I've not had any issues whatsoever. So with this new iteration, I think stand-ups comparing the two is a wash.

I think in terms of overall sound. I think that the inherent sound of the OG is superior to the pinball brothers. That said, as soon as I added an external sub to the PB version, I got the sound that I was looking for, but initially it wasn't anywhere close. So for base/stock sound system, I give the OG the win.

As far as the ramps, all those weird nubbins that are coming off the sides of the unfinished metal ramps on the OG always were a bit perplexing...as if they had originally designed them to have posts and locations that did not make final production. The PB ramps do not have this and look more sleek and streamlined, not to mention that they are super crazy, shiny and polished. For the ramps, I give PB big win.

I suppose another playfield attribute that is different is the actual lock mechanism for hypersleep ramp. I'm indifferent about this, although I suppose an actual physical lock is pretty cool. As opposed to dropping down through the hole and onto the left orbit like the OG, when you have not completed the APC targets, it shoots it up to go on to the left ramp. I actually think that this attribute is much cooler and I give PB the win for that.

The small square stand up LCD screen is same on both, so that's a wash.

One other thing that I noticed, and it's probably not even a play field design change, but for whatever reason when balls would go out the right out lane on my OG, some nice timed nudging would save a lot of balls and bring it in, whereas it seems as though I get a bit more drains out the right out lane on the PB version. I don't know if it's just my game setup, but if not, I would give OG the win on that.

I suppose one of the thing that I've noticed is that I think that the plastics are a little bit more sturdy on the PB version compared to the stock plastics on the OG version. I know that there are some PETG plastic replacements that you can get for the OG, and that's what I did, but I think that the stock plastics are a bit more hardy on the PB version. So I would give PB the win on that.

In general, pound for pound (for me, and this would be in an idealistic scenario where both games were playing just as absolutely perfectly as possible, and ideally there was a company that was alive and well and willing to talk with you about any game issues, etc, etc, etc)...if I had to pick one game versus the other, I would go OG. I would make that decision based on the in-playfield LCD screen, the larger back box monitor, and the overall cabinet look. Either way, it's a badass title, but in terms of just being straight-up bad to the bone, OG is one bad mama that probably hunts and eats PBs for breakfast, lol (don't tell my current PB version, haha).
But I will say that it is a much more secure feeling with this PB version knowing that there is a company that is alive and well and working through the issues, and it is that fact, and that fact alone, that led me to feel encouraged to pick this title up again (and it was that fact and that fact alone that led me to sell my last OG).
So these are just my two cents on the matter off the cuff. Certainly, anyone that has the chance to own an aliens one way or another is a lucky individual!

4 weeks later
#29533 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Up post question / issues
They don't seem to work in game. In test mode they fire off really quick. The test mode does register the ball running around the orbit (as shown by a counter going up) but the post does not activate unless I tell it to, and when it does it's lightning fast.
Any ideas? Nothing is diverting the ball into the pops, it's just an orbit shot every time.

I could be wrong, and if so I apologize, but I think your question relates to the PB alien. I sent you a PM.

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