Why couldn't "use same parts everywhere" be more suitable leaf blade type setup on the lit standups? . 9 in total now they have. . Robust, tried, and true. Some of the targets they have now lit take More of a pounding than the Xeno targets! . That green one to the left of the right ramp sure takes a solid pounding!

These tiny SMD buttons are for the front of your friken DVR or the old telly. Not meant for a heavy steel ball to pound on at velocity, repeatedly. Some of those been lucky to make a couple of hundred games. I'd even speculate this turns into a bit of a warranty/recall issue for Pb. The leaf setup may cost slightly more, but at least they will work for a reasonable time. False economy. I guess they only need them to work until warranty runs out.

They could have very efficiently just added leaf switches to the regular slingshot RGB PCB post, stack in front and connect to it's header, done. All the same around the board, works better, more reliable, more durable, cost effective. Happy customer.

Sure smells a bit like the pantyhose principle to me.

I have a collection here in a box with blown out switches from getting smashed. I'll be trying some things out with those. The RGB's were all still working fine. The lit standups switch choice, by heighway and Pb, would have to be one of the stand out worst things about these games. S#itty fu@#en switches?!?!. :3

You are spot on. The narrower face on the weapon targets amplifies the issue as the switch board just barely fits within the width of the face. If it rotates slightly, which happens easily, the switch becomes even more flakey. 3 out of 5 needed adjustment after less than 50 plays.

Given that the leds are not even connected they should just replace these with standard leaf switches, which have worked for decades.

Because it wouldn't be suitable for all positions.

You keep trying to make this into something nefarious - vs the simplest answer which is simply 'inexperience'. You think Heighway was designing for planned failure of parts too? and PB just wanted to be even more greedy and expand the gaming of these parts?

Come on man... PB isn't banking that selling $10 switches is their path to glory.

Nothing nefarious, and would certainly believe PB has some sort of experience, correct? They did stamp their name all over every piece of the original game, along with assembling the pieces of Heighway and selling NIB, correct?....this was the machine 2 years in the making that walked on water (?)

I think a real "come on man" is in order......I hope every person involved w the first round makes money they are owed through sales of these, but to pretend it's not a VE version of the original (which they chose not to work the bugs out of) is dilusional. Alot of the "amazing new features" came from original owners having to figure shit out on their own (PETG, metal apron, locking connectors, though I think I still saw USB facing up in the backbox....genious).

Actually...you are correct....PB doesn't have experience when coming to building pinball machines (reading what I just posted, realizing what a journey this whole thing has been). Crazy.....

The point on HP was: They brought so much innovations in the pin that they also had the feeling to "innovate" simple standup targets with microswitches. I did not realize this, mine are just working fine. But I think this was the point .. bringing new (maybe bad) ideas up. So the switches were no good idea. But must be possible to convert to "old style" targets.

New Part for 3D printing.
I try to make a matchtng spare part for the Hypersleep Lock plastic.

IMG_20210517_132422 (resized).jpg

Very interesting. Will you have the 3D file available to download when finished? I had to remove mine as it was from a prototype and the new PETG I installed did not quite match. Also, does anyone happen to have a closeup picture of that area and how it connects?

Averell Cool thank you

You Da Man! I've been waiting a long time for someone to make a 3D Plastic of the hypersleep chamber. Can't wait to see the final product. Thank you Sir!

I know there're different parts form very prototype machines later productions.
The first machines had parts made of plexi with different measurments to the later final parts.
I redesign matching parts for the later production, so early machines or prototype versions have to be modified somehow.
The files will be able to download from flipperforum.de

Sure ??

Ah, only members have the choice to download from the "Howto".
But if someone needs these files, he can contact me by PN.

Here’s the second draft for the hypersleep lock.
I will print a proof tomorrow to see how it compares to the original part.
Luckily we have another part in spare, then.

pasted_image (resized).png

Very nice as always!!!! Had a good evening (late) with mine last night.....such a great game!!!! I swear I felt warm when destroying Queens nest...eggs on fire everywhere...lit up the room in a creepy way.....

Is anyone getting parts from gameroom.no? Ordered spare Xeno targets about 2 months ago.....no confirmation...zippo

I ordered about $500. worth of parts several weeks ago and have made several attempts to get some sort of update. I’ve received nothing. No parts and no reply. I was a little skeptical all from the start. Hope they come through with something soon...

Ugh....same here

I wrote an email two month ago regarding PETG-Plastic set... they answered last week... I declined their offer.

If there's an ALIEN to be resurrected somewhere outside... here are the redesigned rating plates.
Find PDF file attached...

pasted_image (resized).png

Typenschilder Heighway ALIEN.pdf

3D Print file for hypersleep lock is ready.
The part fits 100 % to the original one.

Final Hypersleep Lock (resized).PNG

Will you be making and selling these? Regardless, I can't wait to see your finished product.

I can send you the 3D file and you can go to your local print shop.
This is working online, also... find a shop, upload the file and they print and deliver for you.

Mine is half destroyed by sack trolley moving, before I acquired it

The choice for placement was bad.

Then you can use the PDF and edit the Serials with acrobat... print - done.

Question for the club. I was curious how often the Xeno grabs the ball accurately and took the glass off to check. 80% of ten tries on my machine, missed a couple with hard fast shots that bounced back. The magnet was pretty warm, is this typical? I let it cool off and did one Ambush, still warmer than I’d think it would be, but completely functional.

Use the recommended settings of the rulesheet - as well for the magnet.
Sure, the magnet might get warmer as often it's activated... it's also a coil!

Very normal for magnets to get warm...quite warm during extended gameplay....there's the occasional miss (think I stated better than 75% grab in the remake thread which I still stand by). Some nice adjusdtments in the menu which make it do some cool slings, etc. as well (as Averell mentioned).

Does anyone have a link to version 1.4 of the software? I have 1.2 and would love to upgrade. The old site/link seems to be broken.

Thanks for any help!

There's no link... I will send you the update file later this evening.

We should ask IPDB to upload all available updates and change logs.
Again a bad support from PB... why on earth don't they provide us the updates for download on their homepage?

Send them to Jay at IPDB. I am sure he will upload them.

Why on earth aren't you employed by these brothers, brotha!?!

I wrote an email to Jay... maybe it's possible to upload the update files and change logs to the IPDB?

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone involved in the 1.4 update and for sending it Averell. Immediately after installing I noticed the flickering LEDs when pressing the right flipper button and the ball launch delay mentioned previously were fixed. My machine was originally a prototype but everything is running great now after the upgrade and the new update. The only three main things I have left are reattaching the magnet to the tongue, installing the ball lock, and installing the awesome apron that MK6PIN made. I was holding off on installing the apron until everything else was in working order. Didn't want to introduce too many new variables. It was pretty amazing playing games tonight with everything working. I will never sell this pin, ha.

Another suggestion from my experience... change the 12 Volt power supply!
Otherwise you will have resets, because MK6PINs amazing Apron needs ~1.2 Amps addionall current.
If you still have the weak factory wiring you will get in trouble sooner or later.
My ALIEN is working very well with all mods and imrpovements, but the 12 Volt power supply is on the limit right now and I had a reset also.
I'm investigating for the right power supply and then I will change that.

Can't be overstated enough ( regardless if you have the apron or not). Top 3 imho of things to address...

Plastics
Power issues
Proper lacing

Depending on what run of the few you have would determine a Xeno deep dive or not

You address the top 3, add 1.4, then the game is quite stable....the little but important things

Ahh, very cool. I replaced the old xeno with the newer model and it seems to work fine most of the time. The magnet and boot attachment came off so I will just need to reattach it. I lost the boot so I will need to come up with something. I replaced all of the acrylic plastics with PETG and upgraded the original high voltage power supply with the help of a friend. I would definitely be interested in upgrading the 12 volt supply if you end up having info on the model in the future. I have had the pin for almost two years now so it has definitely been a process.

Is there any particular wiring you recommend replacing?

Thanks!

Sure... this is the most important improvement at the PC-Mainboard.
Don't use that wimpy plug anymore, use that Molex-Connector directly on the board.
And use both terminals plus and minus to decrease the current on the terminals.
Remember, double cross sections cause in half of the current on each terminal!
And use wiring with cross section of 1.5 mm.

DSCN8673 (resized).JPG

Captured some skilled use of the revive area by my mate there, also goes through all the regular "Alien" modes on his way to a 183M game.

The original barrel connector on mine turned out it was causing resets on my game, bad connection. I replaced with more generous gauge of wire and a proper connector from an ATX power supply as you have here. Resets solved!

2021-05-23 12.00.21.png

2021-05-23 12.01.43.png

2021-05-23 12.01.00.png

8ffe07e868b280cd48d51bb4bc18ebce8a242f0c (resized).png

Cable managment and convection path also been sorted. A 120mm fan helps keep the flipper coils and that bottom i/o a bit cooler with more circulation there.

3 hours constant playing last night and no fade or flipper issues.

Do have a pesky intermittent "launch all my trough balls in regular play" fault that presents iself Very rarely, I still have to try and pinpoint the problem that is causing it to happen.

Interesting... Did you relocate your CPU to get it over to the side (mine's in the middle)? Hard to see, but believe you have encased the 2 side chambers completely (?) creating 2 air ducts bringing all the cool air to the front of the cab (?). What before/ after temp measurements did you capture w this method at the CPU?

I've been toying w other machines lately but will post the negative air manifold design I'm having made for mine at some point (ties into me dragging the air to the front via tube's as shown earlier). Convinced the only way I want forced air moving in there is out.

My machine has been virtually trouble-free for what seems like forever after the prior work (should never had said that... ) except one of my $%#&! Xeno targets will stick on occasion. Going to sort that once and for all w a leaf switch solution at some point. Never had flipper fade and it's been played non-stop by some Alien guests several times throughout its life. Actually have to turn my settings down as the snap on those things are vicious in factory mode.

They used several W/B and Stern parts on the original...always wondered why they didn't use one of the beefier trough assemblies as well...mine works, but really enjoy the more solid sound/ feeling of the other mechs.....guess bending unfinished metal was their thing back then, lol...

For an effective cooling of cab an BB you just need this!

DSCN8319 (resized).JPG

DSCN8340 (resized).JPG

Elegant as always!!! Doesn't address the air wall created w air entering directly below it in cabinet bottom. Exactly what early WOZ faced w cabinet mounted electronics.

I think if I took that approach dung nailed it w putting holes in the front underside of cab, blocking the rear, then letting convection take over, drawing the air front to back as it warmed...

Avoiding hole saw if possible...

The main problem is the accumulation heat that rises to the top and can not leave. Then the circulation in the cabinet fails.
With the ventilation in the BB convection occurs as in a fireplace.

For best efficiency the vents at the back of the main cabinet are blocked off. This has the effect of increasing head and potential pressure difference.

When vents are added to the backbox, they are replacing the rear cabinet vents as the upper (or exit) vents. Leaving the old upper vents open will reduce convective effect for the same heat dissipation.

Only block the rear cabinet vents if new vents are added to the backbox.

Correct. It is still important to get the intake air to the front of the cabinet to draw it through or the air will simply enter the bottom, heat slightly, and go straight out the chimney, bypassing all electronics in front as an air wall will be formed.

Am sure this was all covered prior so don't want to put redundant info in. Even with using the existing vents I was able to lower the temp around 10-12 degrees by simply guiding intake...was verified and posted w my thermal measuring device...

Upper exhausts as shown by Averell vent the back of as well, but not much heat up there except the monitor....

Every bit counts

The path to the front was why I moved the PC to the side, so that it could be within the duct, and then also leaving the clear channel up the middle for the cable management. So now for my cabinet the air coming in the back at the bottom vents must come all the way forward to the front boards laterally, and then it can move upward once it gets to the cover piece over the Cabinet Power Board and Power supplies. This is similar in effect to the hose duct upgrade but with a duct of much larger volume and a little less resistance to flow.

My choice for where to put a fan for most usefulness was right behind the coin door pointing at the lower flipper coils. Helping to shed heat from flipper coils and that hot lower I/O board. Went through a 3 hour Flip Frenzy the other weekend without flipper fade or heat issues.

The only issue was one instance of regular play launching all of the balls onto the playfield. I reset the game, wiggled connectors on the ball trough, and it didn't happen again.

I still have to put vents in the backbox and close the vents in the back of the cabinet. That is about to happen now as well. It is time to strip it down to sort out the wobly playfield protector, a thorough clean, and apply some mods that have been waiting.