I’d like a set, or a couple of sets
Don’t mind helping out the community if you need me to send these out for US owners,
Nice setup Averell!
Nice to see someone else watching F1 too
I’d like a set, or a couple of sets
Don’t mind helping out the community if you need me to send these out for US owners,
Nice setup Averell!
Nice to see someone else watching F1 too
Quoted from Averell:Solved the problem with the noisy beacons today.
Use these grommets between BB and beacons and now the mechanic is super silence.
The conclusion is, no belt driven version necessary.
Also swapped to screwable caps and LED-Bulbs.
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BB is finished...
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Installed Slingshot Protectors (1,5 mm Vivak) and new LED for Slingshots made by Twister.
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My beacons attach to the back box with magnets. Anyone else have this type of setup?
Quoted from Twister:I made the LEDs, but I don´t write often here, because my english is not the best, sorry for that.
My Alien was a early prototype, so I needed spare parts. I remade the slingshot LED, the normal Insert and GI LED, the target switches with LED and the bumper LED.
I made them mainly for my private use. But I know, other Alien owner will also need it.
For the slingshot LEDs I made a batch with 100 pieces full assembled and soldered PCBs, they are all sold. They are with two front and one rear LED.
I am also working on a tester for Alien components. You can make different tests on LEDs, Switches, JAW servo, stepper motor....but more info when it is done, if there is interest.
I don´t have the time to manage orders, shipping etc. And I have no commercial interest, I do this for a price that only covers my cost. For example the Slingleds were 4$/piece.
Also at the moment, the shipping cost to US is very high.
My suggestion would be , that I can order one batch of all my PCBs (fully assembled and soldered), when I have also finished my tester, and if there is also interest. Then we can make one group-buy, and one package to every country/continent. The distribution in every country/continent have to make a Alien owner.
Sascha
I would certainly be interested in purchasing those as well!
Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:I would certainly be interested in purchasing those as well!
Im in for 2 sets also. Im in the UK.
Quoted from dts:What happened with the hypersleep chamber mod? I remember seeing a prototype but not the final version.
I started Elite Pinball Toppers and got distracted :/ sorry guys! Just started tinkering with it again!
Quoted from Averell:Another ALIEN inside... I like this open egg.
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The open egg with the facehugger looks great - wish they done something like that on the new PB machine but the photo they shared the other day had none open
Quoted from Manny65:The open egg with the facehugger looks great - wish they done something like that on the new PB machine but the photo they shared the other day had none open
They're also the same price as the standard closed egg, and the same supplier. I don't see a reason that they wouldn't include them in production...
They also aught to put a jaw on the tounge, even if it's plastic instead of the Ni-Cr Steel that I used...
For benifit of new buyers hopefully they also had the foresight to fix the vent 2 shot.
Shame about the screen, as it seems it was a key part of the game to most, especially the players of the game.
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Nicely done - I think PB's should hit you up for some
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It would work well with Averells magnet upgrade. In it's austenitic (annealed) form the 316 is non magnetic so does not interfere. 316 is also relatively quite soft and tough (malleable), so the teeth would be unable to damage the hard pinballs. The teeth will eventually "form" to cradle the ball at multiple (teeth) points around. It can feasibly replace the rubber, as a rest to hold the ball from being too close to the magnet (held too strongly), and can be adjustable using a grub/set screw holding the desired position/distance. I had to cut away a fair bit of rubber to put it where I needed. This one has no grub screw yet but is held firmly along with the old rubber using super-glue, but this is just for testing atm.
The tongue jaw also protects the magnets from being struck and broken, it is locked to the gear rack (tongue).
The downfall to produce as an item is that it won't fit a standard head. I took the arch in the nylon recess out to a square shape, gave it much smaller radius corners. Not much material really. Otherwise the top jaw had to almost not exist. So there's that. Looks like it's only an arch due to cutter shape, simplicity of production, need. I should filter through and post some more pics ...
I done it using a cordless drill and regular drill bits. Having said that, I am a machinist by trade so it isn't something for everyone.
It is made from 5x25mm flat bar, and 3x20mm flat bar, 316ss. Crafted, then polished. Teeth first. Then TIG welded together to form a box having a 12x6mm orifice. I used the actual tongue rack to jig and carefully weld this. Then the middle teeth were formed around to shape (they were welded in sticking up at about 30 degrees from the tongue line, bent down later), and then some more TIG welding. Then finish shaping and fitting (grinding down the out side faces to give my desired clearance), followed by a final cut/smooth, electro-polish and buff over.
I was going to use a grub screw in the side from the start, but turned out it glued on there solid with the rougher surface finishes inside... like crazy glue. When I finished trimming the rubber down it was basically falling off, so I put it back in place with "super glue". I slid the jaw up for a test fit when this glue was half set, and did not intend for the jaw to stick there. With the tiny amount for it to stick to, I needed a hammer to get it off again!. So I figured, jeez, might as well just go with the super glue and see what happens for now.
Ultimately I think I will end up with a locking grub screw as well as super glue... and no rubber, with Averells magnets setup. Adjust to good position with grub screw (ball to magnet gap), then lock in that place with super glue ... bare magnets and bolt visible like a little inner tongue.
The reason my tongue was jamming up....
Cleaned everything. De-burred all the sloppy nylon burrs that had clogged up with grease. Cleaned some more. Brushed on small amount of graphite powder to the upper portion of the rack (top and bottom) before installing. Good to go!
More on Main jaw counterweight...
In the first pic is seen the original arch shape of the top of the tongue recess, re. tongue. The jaw counterweight plate slots in between the jaw frame and sculpt there, can go in just far enough (on the jaw I have) to get a hole in it to locate with pivot bolt. I had to thin the plate to a slight wedge shape around the hole to get it in far enough though. It has a little slop as shown in the pic where I push it up, but rests well with gravity. It is 4 layers of lead sheet with the carrier being 1.6mm ss sheet material. I know right it's a bit hard to spot with the black cammo effect Lol ... soz
The tongue jaw other pics....
I guess those are all kinda self explanatory....
Back a couple of pages is more details on the jaw; the servo-saver, crank, and relocation mods.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-pinball-official-game-thread/page/559#post-5981359
Can someone please post some pics of the top left corner of the playfield? I took the hyper chamber plastics off and the plastic with the ramp switch and like and idiot didn't take any.
Thanks
Quoted from fossmin:Can someone please post some pics of the top left corner of the playfield? I took the hyper chamber plastics off and the plastic with the ramp switch and like and idiot didn't take any.
Thanks
Here you go
Quoted from Olaa:Does anyone know the length of the usb cables? I need to order new ones.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-pinball-official-game-thread/page/512#post-5261026
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-pinball-official-game-thread/page/514#post-5282148
I can send much more pictures in detail and in dismantled view later this evening.
As mentioned some posts before, these plastics don't fit properly and need some fixes.
And take care, the micro switch is in a very bad position and if you pull the playfield it can scratch the side blades.
Quoted from EalaDubhSidhe:All coming together now...
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We miss only the cabinet and backbox art now... and the prices ...
Quoted from thewool:PF looks really nice without the LCD, just saying...
Only time it looks better is when the game is off...
Quoted from Averell:I can send much more pictures in detail and in dismantled view later this evening.
As mentioned some posts before, these plastics don't fit properly and need some fixes.
And take care, the micro switch is in a very bad position and if you pull the playfield it can scratch the side blades.
Thanks. I need to see down one more level.
Quoted from Averell:Some spare for the future - complete mainboards with SSD and HDD.
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Wow, I'd just like one extra!
These are not for me alone, I keep one in spare and all the others will be sent to other ALIEN owners who ordered them, too.
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Awesome thanks!
Quoted from Averell:These are not for me alone, I keep one in spare and all the others will be sent to other ALIEN owners who ordered them, too.
Yes indeed here too we ordered a group batch for aussie owners. Good to think ahead.
Quoted from EalaDubhSidhe:All coming together now...
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I’ll admit that I would prefer the display on the PF but the art looks way better without it. So I could live without the display.
I can not miss what I have not got.
Funny ... to me the art eliminated by the display is actually profoundly dull. Subjective thing though of course.
Remember when you guys all gave me a bunch of crap because this game was “never going to happen”? Go read my post again. I described it just like they built it.
2136977A-3F73-44EF-8ABC-1B3D54563855 (resized).png23A3F6FB-EBFA-4A8F-8D22-64370105336D (resized).png29A4CFC6-BE48-43AA-8B76-A20282E3D80A (resized).jpeg57A1DA23-8F5A-4339-A6F2-4331D9AEE1EE (resized).jpegD9141F97-71DE-4187-A6B7-3CFD92F8A63F (resized).png2C4E6273-8CC7-4E10-B16E-C1571648AE60 (resized).png
6B82BCC1-1C3F-4747-84DF-39BBC3D3860E (resized).jpeg2A6C877D-B62F-4BBD-A308-39A02724E070 (resized).jpeg171C1359-425B-4EAA-994F-0BEF7B6457EB (resized).jpegQuoted from dpeck3:Remember when you guys all gave me a bunch of crap because this game was “never going to happen”? Go read my post again. I described it just like they built it.
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I've known about the remake for a year and a half now from two direct sources, and knew there wouldn't be a playfield LCD for over a year, but bought an original anyhow. Based on what I'm seeing, I made a good decision. The cabinet, LCDs, and illuminated side art take the game to the next level. Glad there will be more out there regardless.
Quoted from dts:I've known about the remake for a year and a half now from two direct sources, and knew there wouldn't be a playfield LCD for over a year, but bought an original anyhow. Based on what I'm seeing, I made a good decision. The cabinet, LCDs, and illuminated side art take the game to the next level. Glad there will be more out there regardless.
I’m sure the LE will have more of what you’re talking about. Check out the link I posted above. It will be out later next year.
Quoted from dpeck3:I’m sure the LE will have more of what you’re talking about. Check out the link I posted above. It will be out later next year.
Not sure why I need to check the link above as I've known Melissa for years, but ok? Still won't have the cabinet, side panels, screens, etc. Shoulda kept your original!
The original was great but having a company still in business that can give you technical support, firmware updates and a steady supply of parts is priceless. I have been known to MOD my machines a lot better than they could think of at the factory. Just like some of the guys in this group, it will be made better by the users. I’m excited. I ordered one.
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