Sure wish I had 27,000 bucks to throw away. This would also be at my house, LOL. It’s for sale!

Replace the stock cables with any good quality cables. More important: move cables away from amplifier on bottom cabinet.
Also support the cables near the port of the IO-boards. Especially IO-board 1. The one at the rear end of the playfield.

Hi all,
I've had my alien se for a few days now and all is well except for the xenomorph lower jaw seems to be malfunctioning. It does not go up and down but hangs up and just winds the motor. When I wiggle it, it moves. I can move it up with my finger when its winding and it stops but after a few seconds the jaw seems to fall a little and start winding the motor again. The ball grabbing inner jaw works and goes in and out and grabs the ball so the problem appears to be with the hinged jaw not moving right. I'm running 1.2 code. I tried disabling the xenomorph but that only seemed to affect the ball grabber and not the hinged lower jaw because it's still trying to move. Any ideas?

Possibly a bad mouth servo? Not sure if anyone else has experienced it and has a better solution. But I’ve got plenty of servos if you need one.

Yes. I will take you up on that servo. Maybe message me and we can set it up. The lower jaw definitely does not want to bring itself up to the closed position. Its stalls just before it closes and keeps running. If I lift it a bit. The motor stops but soon it drops a little and stalls and the motor keeps running. When I power it off the jaw drops all the way down and the process repeats when I power it on again. Bottom line... the jaw is not opening and closing but it's trying, stalling and the motor keeps running even after I disabled the xenomorph in the settings. Thanks for any ideas

The infamous stepper motor issue. Can you take a pic of what is in your game now? Early ones had plastic gearing...there are 2 metal geared ones that both work great. Super cheap. To do it right, I'd recommend pulling the entire assembly off (only 4 screws), and you can rebuild/ test as required. I actually made a little jig to put mine above the backboard (easy) so I could actually plug it in and cycle on the game. Wanted to understand how the thing worked (early days) and really helped me dial in the jaw so it behaved.

Not as scary as you might think......

So problem solved, issue was somewhere on power supply board. Swapped it out with my spare and good to go now.

Thank you so much! I’ll give a try. Also thanks to Faust for your quick response ! You guys rock !

Could be too as dumb as loose cable (if iM not wrong). Cable behind backboard doesn’t hold very well. I would check first.

True...worry about the "hearing motor still going" comment though. Hope you are right..

Update on the light mod:

Pistenking was closed until last week, I’ve ordered the necessary lights now finally.

PCB production is slow: they are hand made so will take a few weeks to finish all (sorry for being slow).

I will post PCB design for those who want to do it themselves.
I’m not taking anymore orders for the light mod, because I’m out of time.

Thanks to everyone. I will remove the assembly this weekend and take a look. The jaw is definitely trying to move up and down but not moving smoothly or staying closed without dropping slightly and then the motor starts again. Motor only stops winding when I assist it up with my finger a little but then drops a little again starts up again. Its constantly running when the game is powered on unless I jiggle it and assist the jaw up to the closed position, then it stops running for a second until the jaw falls a bit. It feels like maybe a sprocket is missing some teeth causing it to not achieve it's full up and down positions. I went ahead and ordered the complete xeno assembly from pinball life just in case and for reference.

To remember, servo drive should be changed to better version with metal gear inside.
The driver board should be modified to interchange the servo drive without changing the connector.
Improvement of the gear "tongue" is recommended and some xeno boards are needed for spare.

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Awesome. I ordered a bunch of parts off pinball life when I was waiting for my machine to show up, but i did not see any xeno boards. Do you know where i can purchase?

I have two quick questions about how the xeno jaw should operate when functioning properly. Can someone tell me how it is supposed to behave? Does it open and close just once to allow the "tongue "to go in and out or does it open and close repeatedly in a chewing type motion?
Btw, this is my first time ever using message boards so please educate me if my etiquette is lacking. Thanks again everyone

There's two boards behind the backpanel... the xeno servo board and the other board for the tongue stepper motor.
The small circuit on top of the stepper board will be often toasted due to a bad working gear.
I'm not sure where to get the stepper board, but you can get the small circuits on EBAY... very cheap.

Search for:
A4988 Stepper Motor Drive

But there's an issue you have to take care to, the heat sink must be glued because it may move due to high temperature and short circuit the board!

Also, is it normal that my jaw still wants to move even after I disabled the xeno in settings. I'm guessing that disabling the xeno only affects the extending "tongue" ball grabber. Lmk . Thanks!

The jaw is controlled in different ways... just open to catch the ball, or breathing while playing.
You can test all these functions in the service menu.

The entire assy needs to be adjusted very carefully and the drive motor needs to be calibrated, otherwise it will crash the game.

Also:
If you press the jaw down by hand, the servo pushes it up again (when functioning normally), I think also when you have disabled the xeno.
So you will feel counterforce if you press on the jaw (unless machine is switched off or cable unplugged of the xeno

I think Averell means it is nice to have some of those spare chips, because they may break (heatsink can fall off).
The complete boards... in my opnion you don't need them.

The chips: I have 5, Averell has a bunch. I think if one breaks and you post in the forum you get a new one from one of the members. They are cheap.
I can send you 1 if you want (no costs).
If anyone else wants one too, PM me. I got 5, can give away 4.

You're doing just fine Carry on

Did you check stand-up targets don’t block jaw move?

Yes. The jaw is making contact with the stand up target. But doesnt seem to be catching. When the machine is powered on the jaw stays at its lowest position. Then when I start a game it raises up 2 0r 3 millimeter till it is just above the stand ups and then it stops there and the motor keeps going with the jaw never going any further up into the closed position unless I help it with my finger and even then when I bring it all the way up it only stays for a moment and drops down 2 millimeters and stalls with the motor running. Thanks for all the feedback. I'm going to hold off on trying to describe this problem better until I can open it up. Thanks everyone. I will also ask some of my more tech savvy friends to read through this so they can help me in person.

She is definitely not "breathing" right

Maybe a video here might help....

Agreed.....snatch that thing out and repair/ adjust where you can actually get to it...not hard to get it right and kind of cool to have the xeno up there watching it "eat"...lol...2 types of metal geared stepper motors, btw. both affordable ( 1 overkill..metal casing).

Post your findings...another Xeno to be conquered!!!!

When disabled in the settings, the game code running on the CPU board won't send commands to the controller. But the controller itself is totally unaware of this, and might be trying to calibrate or initialize on its own.

Also note, even while disabled, you can go into test mode and run the diagnostic commands to test the different functions (some that are jaw only and some that extend the tongue).

Sounds awesome. Thanks. So when we open it up we will want to determine if it's a metal gear or plastic? If its plastic i need to order a new stepper motor with the metal gear? No problem. Do you know where I can buy one? The original owner of this game told me this was a later production machine from cointaker, if that means anything. I'm working on video of the problem now and will open it up this weekend when my complete xenomorph assembly arrives in the mail from pinball life. If I dont need the new xenomorph assembly I will just add it to the bin of parts for this machine that I'm assembling for down the road if needed. Thanks !

Ohhhhhhhkkkkkk. Are you saying that with my xeno disabled in settings the jaw is not being instructed to move so the attempted movement and motor running is not being called for by gameplay and may be a recalibration attempt because of malfunction or breakage? Thanks. This is good stuff!

You may read here some servo background details: https://www.jameco.com/jameco/workshop/howitworks/how-servo-motors-work.html
The interesting part is, that the motor moves the gear with the attached mechanics (in this case the jaw) and the build in sensor (potentiometer) is constantly checking if the requested position of the output shaft (given via PWM by the controller) is reached. If not the build in electronics powers the motor.
So, if there are problems with the gear (worn out plastic teeth) or the mechanics (tight or too heavy parts) preventing the whole construction to reach the intended position the motor will be trying and running all the time.

All Alien (old and new) came with plastic gear servos: a Tower Pro SG90. Replace it with a new one or with a similar model with metal gears like the MG90S or MG90D (double bearings). But they have slightly different sizes - some adjustments might be needed. I even had one servo which was running in the wrong direction...

Spot on @Per!!..

Good, but scary times back then, as we were all learning to a degree.

Yep, loosen 2 screws on either side of head top ( that has to be aligned correctly btw on reassembly...easy but don't forget.

The new stepper motors have 2 wires swapped..pay attention to color of original and your good ( if not, tongue goes out the wrong way...from experience).

Whole assembly comes out w 4 screws ( pay attention to spacers labeled under the back 2). Carefully lift the beast and you can then adjust, test until you've nailed it.

Biggest thing really is the actuator wire in reference to the slotted blade. That's why I ran mine outside the game as I thought I had it right ( twice) until reinstalled.

Truthfully not hard after the fear is gone, and a small dab of hot melt on connector after reseating=done. I've got the D in mine as it wasn't discovered until after the normal one was found...

Here are pictures of the 2 replacements (label in different location on the pro)

Enjoy!!!!

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Here is the prototype apron, because I got some PMs asking if I actually made something.
It will be very cool with the acid burn holes.
I'll post again when it's finished. I need no deposits for orders by the way.

As I announced several weeks ago it fits Vimtoman's mod or can be bought as a kit (to save shipping).
I will make 1 run only because I'm very busy with work, then it is up to the do-it-yourselfers.

Keep en eye on the forum, when the final unit is ready I'll collect some orders.
I mentioned the pricerange before a few pages up; currently still actual (150-300)

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hi at all, I also have my mod tracker alien Vimtoman that I installed its makes well, next investment the apron as I could read the 2 are well I'm in a hurry to see the 2 once finish and make a choice in any case great work, congratulations to you. I'm also interested in the Cliffer of Averell and I'm also considering, has the future of a purchase for the hypersleep chamber super project. I'm waiting for my per package that I ordered and that's lost en route a month ago it takes care of everything, the mod flasher ramp is ok, these are the connectors of the cables extension cords for LEDs - foam protection integrate. I hope the package will be found.

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you see in the photos attached the square foam protection sticker at the launch of the ball, this was installed 1 year ago, saved my wood, before a rule was taken out for the settings of the coils power thanks again for that and at the level of the ball capture left mistery mother you have a metal stop the ball goes every time hit this one to dampen its speed I strongly advise you to put a protection at this level to avoid wearing your balls

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this is cheap does not cost expensive in the meantime, after there are the cliffer of Averell that are super steel they arrived bravo for this idea I advise you too

I answer to the person who was looking for the ship USS SULACO has less who got it already? if not it's on eaglemoss shop I show on the photo how I fixed mine

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I have an idea that has been working for me for a while I must say, if someone has thought of finding a project for the speaker grids even though there were the color grids of Faust and that's great I also own, but to make a decoration for example on the grids directly a theme that relates to the Alien Sigourney?a ship? or others? as STERN often does on these speaker grilles

I still wanted to say that I often hear people who still have problems with their Alien, USB cable link problem head of the Xenomorph, ect. I wish them that you will find solutions to this. For mine, it works very well I must say the update is made also1,4 no problem when I had bought mine in April 2018 nine modifications had been made as an addition of a cliffer around the air lock and the mechanism of the head of the xenomorph plastic gears were already replaced in metal in any case its a very good pinball

or can we find a link to order the Averell cliffs bundle? are there any available for sale?

Vincent, the Cliffy protects you have to order from http://www.passionforpinball.com (it's a little retro website, but it works).
I think for the Europeans we can maybe bundle some orders.

I also recommend you get his protectors for both ramps and for the airlock.

Exactly, all the protectors I have in my ALIEN were developed and improved together with Cliff and some other Pinheads.
You can order a complete set which include all protectors you need.
The two woodrail protectors are custom made and not part of Cliffy's.
Also the airball protector at the airlock is not a part of Cliffy's.
Ask Cliff for the two ramp flaps, because the original parts are crap and begun to rust.
Once you remove the ramps, change this!!!

I also bought the fantastic Motion Tracker Mod (MTM) from Andrew.

But I did not like the mounting place directly on the shooterlane cover so much.
The MTM is partly covered by the PF frame and the frame presses a little bit on the MTM.
As an alternative mounting place I used the shooterlane.
I like it better like this

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yes it's also a good idea location of the motion tracker mod it does not touch the glass there is enough room to sneak it underneath

wow thats living on the edge man.

thank you felix for your link to get cliffers yes it would be interesting to make a grouper order for Europe but it would take the exact measurements of cliffers too

I have had my Xeno apart for about 3 months. I didn't think it would be this long and now I forgot how to put it back together. I know a lot of people have worked on this. What does this hook on the lower jaw attach to? Anyone have a pic?

Thanks

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The hook goes on the servo. The servo, if I remember correctly, has its arm on the LEFT side when you are looking from lockbar position to the alien.]

Edit: Let me search through my picture history. I took pictures disassembling.
One tip: I made all the metal parts black; looks a bit better (in my optinion).

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Here's my solution how to use the speaker protection board.
It works with a 4 second delay to eleminate disturbing "cracks" while switching On and Off.

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