I’m sorry I meant 1.3. No need to be a jerk.

Thank you. I miss typed. I meant version 1.3. I fixed my post.

No problem, we should just avoid that a rumor is started that there is a version 1.4.
Be patience...

I appreciate Brian providing 1.3 as it was substantial in other polish areas (and I don't complete Tunnel Hunt that often anyway).

All of his efforts are above and beyond, imho. Greatful, and there was no rumor last time as he posted himself (as it should be).

When (and if) he provides another rev, I'm sure he will do the same.

it was a reference to someone else's post. As in a joke

Request for the next update: remove the repeating sound while ball save is active. It is especially annoying during the wizard modes. Just let the two “shoot” and “again” inserts flash while ball save is active. That provides all the info needed.

Brian is working an version 1.4 and there's no doubt about that he's doing a very grateful job under all these cicumstances.
But we have to wait until all our suggestions and tests will be implemented and compiled into the new code.

Seeing that you are in South Australia if you want to save on shipping something from the usa and print it yourself. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022038

Unsure if will fit those exact targets but you can resize them yourself.

Do you guys know the breakdown of numbers on LEs and SEs? I know it's in here but the math didn't seem to make sense with the blue LEs, green, etc.

Here's my 3D-Print version of the Airlock frame and some decals from Ebay.
First I have to polish the frame and do some airbrush with the matching colors in a light grey tone.

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Looks great! I just got my airlock frame also. Where did you get those stickers on eBay? What are they called?

Just finished installing the last of the toys I want to install. The pictures really don’t do it justice. Looks fantastic! This thing is going to really pop once I get the strobe lights installed.
And I got my 3-D printed airlock cover. Thank you! Can’t wait to decorate it.

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You can get the water decals from here. they also have the numbers etc.

You need to prime the surface with a grey acrylic primer. Add the decals and then spray with satin clear acrylic.

Look up modeling decals. They are a bit fiddly to put on but look great after clear has been applied.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hazard-Stripes-Waterslide-Transfers-Decals/353051498846?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I pulled the 6V regular light bulbs from the extra ball, start and launch button at the cabinet front. They become too hot. I tried 6V and 12V leds but these all melted immediately or were toasted directly. Any suggestions? Should I use regular 12v small light bulbs?

I need an Alien expert!
I have a machine and it seems to work perfectly...except for the coils.
When no coil has fired, the next coil fired is strong as it should be...but if you fire another coil immediately, it's very weak and if you keep trying to fire one (like a flipper) they become weaker and weaker.
If you wait a few seconds, the first coil to fire is strong again.
I've replaced all 4 USB cables with double shielded and ferrite.
I have also done the capacitor mod.
I appreciate the help.

So I ended up printing them out on photo paper and sticking them on. They look great! Here’s the new airlock. Thank you! My personal hint is to use double-sided tape to attach it over the existing screen. First of all, the screws don’t lineup exactly. Secondly, If you unscrew the existing screws, you’ll damage the decal on the existing screen, It’s painted on there using an inkjet and it scratches very easily. Using double-sided tape to stick the new airlock on keeps everything original and you can’t tell the difference!

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For the first time ever my Aliens went nuts. Just froze with no flipper controlled and did a reset. Any ideas? Turned it off and on it has been fine since. Maybe it overheated or something?

My opinion is that bottom line, it’s still a PC. And PC’s freeze up On occasion. I don’t think it’s anything to worry about unless it continues. But you should at least check your cooling fans and make sure everything’s working. And make sure you’re in a cool room. If you’re outside in the garage and it’s 100° out, a computer can get really hot.

Are the capacitors too large? . Are the wires from the 70v power supply upgraded?

I'd probably pull the capacitors first if the problem just popped up. Might have a leaky/ faulty one that is sucking the PS down.

Thank you to ChipScott (decals) and Vimtoman (3D print) for your great work !!

Looks superb !!

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How can I get some of those decals? I like em!

Contact ChipScott ... he will send you the files via EMail.
Let them print in a online store as a sticker and cut them out ... easy doing. I like them because the graphics are very well done, fits perfect to the machine.

I also have a set and they look great.
The door is a perfect choice.

Agreed. Decals look amazing!!!!

Thanks guys, I am so glad you dig them!!
When I look at archive pictures of my machine and the ramps as they were before, I've gotten so used to the decals being there that the ramps look bare naked without them!! haha.
I am so glad that they made it safely to all that got them and/or downloaded the files...and I'm so I pleased that everyone is enjoying them
It was a fun endeavor!
-Chip

Can I get a set? Can you email them to me? [email protected]. Thx!

I got in touch with an expert.
He had me do lots of testing and his assumption is the 70V power supply may be going bad.
He's looking for a good substitute.
Does anyone here have a lead?

Meanwell makes many solid units. Hit Mouser or Digikey to grab appropriate model.

Get a robust 12v supply as well while you're there... existing unit is undersized and crap

I put this up in the other thread as well

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32812372400.html

I believe this is the updated 70v psu. (oem?)

Upgrade the buss wiring for 70v to a heavier guage, if it has not been done already..

7a @70v?!? No wonder the cap mod works. Good grief

( Gotta pop the top tomorrow night and check mine...changed my 12v some time back)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000816881141.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.644af23eYOH3cH&algo_pvid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022&algo_expid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022-3&btsid=0ab6f82215946062214358804e3b21&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Would 21A be enough juice for you?

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I've been considering....

There is a sea of options ...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2039198445.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.644af23eYOH3cH&algo_pvid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022&algo_expid=de42e2b3-3747-4b4c-8fed-e96283b8a022-25&btsid=0ab6f82215946062214358804e3b21&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

So I installed some mini beacons in the existing holes where they are presently mounted. They are 4.5v-6v beacons. The LEDs throughout the playfield appear to be 12 V. Anybody know where I can grab 4.5-6v power on fhe playfield to light them up?

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Now we're talking..

Contact Faust as he has a great pcb mod for triggering these off switches etc
Not sure if they work on a 5v beacon so ask.

Thank you! I actually want them to run the entire time because I think they look cool and add to the game. So if I could just find a constant 6V power somewhere, that’s what I’m really looking for. I’m going to trigger the strobe lights pointed at the 2 aliens using the same power from the beacon lights.

So I bought a USB powered fan and my theory is this. By placing it on the left vent blowing outward, it will pull cool air in from the right hand vent, technically go across the computer and cool it and exhaust that air. Thoughts?

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Another question. Is the extra game knocker supposed to work on these machines? My machine is obviously set on free play so I’m not sure if it only knocks when in regular mode or not. When I win a free game by getting a high score, knocks through the speaker but the actual knocker in the machine does not go off.

Mine does. I think there is a setting. Someone here will know.

And don’t bother replying on my cooling fan post. It does absolutely nothing. I checked it with air blowing in and air blowing out and there was not one bit of temperature difference on the processor

In addition to trying to find 6V power, now I’m having a problem with some LEDs. I just created a YouTube video so that it would be more understandable. Its below but basically whenever I click the right flipper, and only the right flipper, the lower LEDs flash briefly. The left bumper changes color each time I press the flipper. Checked all the wiring and made sure all of the LEDs were tight. You can tap on the board, tap the playfield and nothing happens. It only happens when you click the right hand flipper button. I’ve been playing the hell out of this game lately and I’ve put probably 300 plays on it since I’ve owned it. Just noticed it happening. Not a huge deal but I don’t want it blowing out LEDs with that random flicker. Ideas?

Shhhhhhh. Guess who's back!

My beloved alien. Missed you. Still my favorite game to date.

My game is on 1.2. I think 1.3 is official with 1.4 recently released. Is 1.4 the one to use now and if so, where can I grab that?

Excited to be back.

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Welcome back! I’m Dave. Only had my machine for about a month or so but I’m liking it more and more. I have 1.3 on my machine and I think 1.4 is in the pipeline but not released yet. We’re not supposed to talk about it, LOL. Check your inbox. Thanks!

Hardware knocker works fine, but first you have to switch off the software knocker in the menu.
I have rebuild the enitre knocker assy because most oft the ALIEN machine doesn't have it.
Just to know, the bracket is the same as the one from the shooter lane.
The hardware knocker was installed in Full Throttle machines but later droped in ALIEN machines due to cost reduction.

Play the ALIEN with software version 1.2 - the 1.3 has some issues and is no more available to download.
A new final version is in progress, so be patience.

Flickering LED were caused by interferring coils, version 1.3 has an entry in the menu where to swap slingshot and flipper coils (wiring need to be changed).
It doesn't work properly yet but with the next update this issue should also be fixed.

Great info. Thank you. So the software update will fix the flicker? What setting do I change and what wiring has to be changed?

If you have installed software version 1.3 look into the coil settings.
There's an entry "Swap Slingshot...", toggle the value to "Yes" and swap the wiring under the playfield form the left flipper coil and left slingshot.
But take care, version 1.3 is not working properly, wait for the final release!
Brians intension was to eleminate the "Beep" while left button is pressed, but the result wasn't as good as expected.
After testing a while we found some more issues in version 1.3 so it's strongly recommended not to install version 1.3!

If anyone has an extra pair of side pf lights to illuminate the inner pf art, pm me. Will pay well and asap.

Just checking before I end up buying it from the vendor and doing a custom install.

Also same for the PCB top middle and lower boards. Would be interested in buying them.

Thanks

Thanks. Should I downgraded version 1.2 until 1.4 is ready? I just don’t want to burn any LEDs out. How do I downgrade?

You officially back in the club??

yep. I've always checked the thread but I wouldn't post b/c I didn't own it. I'm back in!