Averell, congrats with the finished machine. Your work and posts have been a great source of inspiration!

Good luck!

The switching power supplies (70v and 12v) both had challenges outlined in the thread referenced prior (inrush on 70v, and lack of amperage on 12v). They simply don't behave like transformers. Many new machines use similiar power supplies but sized proper for application.

Increasing wire gauge certainly doesn't hurt, but will not cure the problem. The euroblock style connector used on the motherboard was also identified as a poor choice...Loctite on the set screws cures the woes there, if you don't have a crimper available....

Your game looks beautiful, btw.....

Thank you

apologies if this has been covered before, I am looking for a replacement for the 7" screen which is embedded into the playfield.

Does anyone know the manufacturer, part number, companies who may have these in order to obtain a spare.... many thanks

Update regarding the speaker panels: at series per 1 or 2 sets they cost EUR 60 per panel to make.

Then adding shipment it will be around EUR 120-150

As this is too expensive for most, I can make a list and if there are 20 or more orders have a full batch made at a better price.

Also the current design is a copy of the wooden design and could be simplified.

-The 2mm deep machined out spot for the grill could be left out
-thinner material
-cheaper transparent material

I’m aiming then for EUR100 including wordwide shipment.

If anyone is interested at this price, PM me and I put you on the list

This link was posted a while ago for thedisplays: https://m.aliexpress.ru/item/32812494499.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail

After discussing with Averell I decided to keep the design identical to the wooden panel:

-Not having the machined out 2mm depth for the grill may result in being too close to the backglass and cause damage.
Although there is now a few mm space, this will de decreased to almost zero.
Alternatively I could move to thinner acrylic (12mm), making up for this but would also require to move the 2 bottom holes off center.

I will keep a 1-1 exchange with the wooden panel so there is no modification or adjustment and it stays as it is.

I'd be interested in two or three kits. Maybe more if this is something folks would like to pick up at shows.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Concerning the speaker panels:
You should only offer shipping with UPS ! As you remember I started selling a batch backboards made out of PET-G. I shipped most of them on december 17. 2019. From 6 boxes 3 are still in transit with no movement. I am happy that all the buyers are patient and wait for delivery but for me it is a nightmare. At least in Germany you have nearly no chance to get money back if boxes are lost. DHL does everything not to pay your lost !
So far I asked for a investigation for the 3 boxes. This can take up to 8 weeks to get *ANY* information. IF the boxes are lost it will take month to get maybe some moeny back.
For me it is for sure that I will payback the people, but this would mean that I tried to help the community with this backboards but will have a loss of 450 EURO if someting went wrong.

One other box was send out december 1. , 2 weeks ago I payed the money back, 2 days later the box arrived. So we will see. But I will never ever sent to the US with DHL. A box to Australia made it within 2 weeks.

Some Pinheads asked me to show some pictures how I did the wiring for the mini beacons.
The cables must be led through the openings under the playfield.
But in such a way that the PCB can still be dismantled.
You need a cable distributor, a capacitor (4,7uF / 25V) and a blocking diode (1N4001).
As a precaution, the mini beacons only receive rectified voltage as they are not specified for PWM.
Take the power from the connector in the backbox and led the cable into the cabinet.

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Thanks for sharing. Doing this myself soon with some Amazon beacons. How/where did you feed that power strip from.

I'll report in this thread how the first two sets fit. It all works out I can order immediately a batch that will take 1-2 weeks to produce.

Just got my acrylic panels in and wondering where we ended up on the best configuration of the LED strip in the back box. I've seen conflicting results and patterns.

Do it as descripted in the manual...

Installation Instructions_ALIEN Clear Speaker Panels_Averell's Limited Edition_ENG_2019-08-10_22-22-21.pdf

So is CGC going to make these?

Im redoing the entire playfield and came across this:

Should I move the target to the left or not (so it doesnt get hit by the ramp).

Also this ramp has no flap. I got some from Cliffy so I could add one. Recommended or leave it as it is?

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The target shouldn't touch the ramp.
Loose the nuts of the ramp beneath the playfield and put some foam between the wooden part of the playfield and the edge of the ramp to get a smooth transit to the ramp.
Otherwise very slow balls get stuck at the right edge of the ramp and the game will interrupt if the CPU detect a lost ball!
Also use a small strap of Mylar in front of the ramp to protect the edge of the playfield... the clear coat may break if the ramp adjustment isn't correct.

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thanks for the tip.
So I can also move the standup target a bit to the left? Can you post a picture of yours?

Take the screws out, drop of loctite blue on them, reinstall, position target as far to the left as possible ( it does have tolerance) to clear the ramp, tighten...Done.

That target gets hit a lot on the left side due to gameplay, hence your issue.

I personally wouldn't use foam there, as it might impede the switch as not much of a gap.

Move the left metal flap from the ramp to the inside, you need approx. 2 mm besided the ramp and the target.

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Very clear thanks.
Now would it be a good to add a ramp flap then to this ramp?
I have stainless steel rivets and a fitting ramp flap.
It will make it smooth at least, although I have not had ever issues with shooting it through.

Recently the playfield monitor turns red. It happened several times. I switch the machine off and on and problem gone. What can cause this and how can I prevent it from happening?

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Same here. Hope there is some advice on this.

Not sure if your pinball was turned on for a while but the heat generated under the PF could cause this.

Not sure if it's a voltage thing or what but mine would only do it every so often in the winter...when it does it you can open coin door and reach in there and unplug power to screen and plug back in then fine...

Same happened to me, had to replace the LCD and issue was gone.

Connectivity/ sync issue (my case)...unplug and re-seat connectors.

@yelowbird, when did you join the club? Just noticed you posting as of late.....

Isn't the target supposed to cover the left edge of the ramp so balls will impact the target not the ramp edge?

Would it help to install a fan somewhere if heat is a problem?

In general of you google on lcd display turning red, the general info says a connection problem.
It may have a flatcable somewhere that is not that good connected.
The problem seems to occur at many machines, but I doubt its the lcd display itself.

The displays can be found on Alibaba on the link I posted a few posts back. I will order some just in case

Yes maybe, I dont know.... Mine was installed blocking the edge of the ramp

Loose conection in the / or the cabels to screen screen is probably causing this.
Typically happens when dropdown targets get reseated because of the slam the coil delivers (in factory settings you can se the pf jump in that area!).
Had it happen several times but not since i reduced the coilpower -20%.

The standup target shouldn't touch the ramps edge!
A flap is not necessary here, just put some foam beneath and it works fine.

nope

There is definitely an air wall impeding proper convection style cooling (holes cut on underside of cabinet directly feed topside vents, not allowing the hot air from the forward components to achieve circulation of cooler air).

Easily heard in my machine, as I installed a robust switching 12vdc ps that has a variable speed fan.....

My inspiration for popping the top on this game and correcting/ adding a few things is here (I think)....and will post some things as I go through the next round (correcting cabinet ventilation without drilling holes, actual Xenon Strobe add, new PETG (similar) backboard plastic (thanks @tomdk..the unobtanium finally made it stateside ), and metal apron on the list.

Metal cover is very interesting... maybe it should be made of clear parts to have a look to the beautiful apron beneath!
If this part is polished it looks really cool.

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You are correct. I feel a bit silly, as I thought this was like a bunch of other games where the target is there to protect the ramp. But, I just took a look at my game and sure enough both the right and left targets are just to the outside of the ramp, so they do not hit it. The more you know!

I know I’ve seen this in a much earlier post, but could you tell us the replacement lcd to order?

I posted the link one page up

Reduce the power of the drop target coil and fix the hollow plug of the LCD - that's it.

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Have wanted this amazing game for some time. Preferably without to many issues. Lucked out and worked out a deal with #del31 for his amazing game with his hoard of replacement parts. Absolutely an incredible game. No question game of the decade in my book 2nd possibly only to JJP POTC. Glad I found the opportunity and Del31 had an amazing example.

On the very random static screen I am certain it’s not the mini display as I have several new backups of those plus on occasion the primary large display does the same. Reset game and it’s fine. My guess is some type of high voltage interference with one of the video cables or connections to the output board.

Glad to hear that game found a great home.... cabling, and connectivity (or lack thereof) are everything on this one. Mine was definitely the connection at the screen itself, as I could recreate the problem. Given you see it occasionally on the big screen as well, you're probably on the right track. Being I'm an A/V guy, all the infrastructure cabling got replaced and routed properly early on, so I'm confident it's a minor thing for you.

Alien (the machine, not company) is in a league of its own....let my JJP POTCCE spot go...twice (a painful experience, but not for this thread)....congrats and welcome to Alienland.....

Sincerely appreciated. I will dive into it tonight and see if I can route stuff better and tighten it up. Or..... as usual I’ll just play some awesome Alien and worry about it some other day. Lol

Lol...Story of my life with these sometimes..Have had the strobe done for months...I look at the game and just push "start"

Congrats and welcome to the club! I can’t seem to ever get tired of playing this game.

My friend has an alien and the jaw is no longer moving. The tongue works fine but the jaw doesn't move in game or test mode. Anyone have a suggestion?

Stepper motor or board is a good guess, depending on what build of the game he has...

Congrats! So does this mean we can expect some awesome New mods for alien in the near future!

Also, anyone have the issue with the ball ejecter being to strong? When the ball is ejected into the shooter lane it literally bounces off the wall and goes right back into the hole and then is ejected again. I’m get and over until 5-6 tries later. It’s especially noticeable during multiball. Should I bend the valve of the kick out? I’m on code 1.02 and I’m aware I need To update. I’m an you adjust coil strength in new code?

Yes, you can adjust the coil strength of every coil via adjustments. You can reduce the power of the Trough Release coil to help resolve this problem. Much easier and safer solution than bending any physical objects.