Quoted from VividPsychosis:Well, in my video from previous owner, I was looking for it and it wasn’t nearly as prominent as it is now.
May be that the video was not an accurate representation. LED brightness can look different in person.
Quoted from VividPsychosis:Well, in my video from previous owner, I was looking for it and it wasn’t nearly as prominent as it is now.
May be that the video was not an accurate representation. LED brightness can look different in person.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Someday I hope to own Alien! As for TBL being “available very soon” unfortunately I am nearly certain you are wrong, unless by available you mean 10 or so more games get made by Barry, because from everything I have seen and heard that is all that we will see made.
Limited yes but available in month or so
Quoted from Kneissl:I miss my Alien.. what a game. If they ever remade it I’d have another go.
Original owner. We miss you....
Quoted from VividPsychosis:Can I wrap the flipper mech in tinfoil lmao.
You could try this just be sure to insulate and secure it from all nearby points of shorting out. I don’t think the coil itself the source of the issue though, my money is on the control lines in the PCB/IO board and headers going between them. I think the high voltage traces are too near the lighting traces and when the coil fires just enough inductive EMI hops over to cause an LED to flicker slightly.
There’s also a design issue with the protocol they built between the IO board and the game code that can cause a coil to get stuck on the “flip” vs. “hold” mode longer than it should as the timing is done in game software rather than the IO board firmware, and it’s root cause seems to be USB comms breaking down due to interference, which is why the better quality USB cables are important to try and prevent this issue from being apparent. It actually causes the main voltage protection circuitry in the IO board to flap, and in turn causes the flipper to “warble”. I have oscilloscope images of this “bug” and was going to document it some day best I could, but really the only way it could get fixed is a re-architecture of the IO board firmware and game code so flip to hold timing is done on IO board and not dependent on the USB communication staying 100% reliable.
Quoted from Kneissl:I miss my Alien.. what a game. If they ever remade it I’d have another go.
Hope you do! Don't worry your original one is being babied and playing like a champ!
Quoted from Averell:This week I took a closer look to the tongue and the mounting of the small magnet.
My ALIEN was also damaged there and the magnet was already broken and just held by the shrinking hose.
I think about another solution with a screwed magnet that can easily changed when damaged.
There're loads of magnets in the market, but first the gear rack has to be modified.
The idea is to drill a thread into the gear rack and use a small magnet with the same specification of the old magnet but screwed to the gear rack... no glue or else.
Here's an example...
[quoted image]
Very nice idea. My magnet came also down and brought chaos in the ball through due it stucks between two balls.
The magnet was glued and shrinked to the gear rack as you wrote. I just remounted and shrinked in with 2 layers. Maybe it holds.
However .. I have also a old style Xeno here, on this there was a special rubber to hold the magnet !
Watch out with this new super magnets, if it holds the ball to tight the ball will magnetize faster and the gear will get problems to remove it !
We have to test this and first find the perfect magnet. The mounting is not the main problem.
If the gear rack have to be modified it must drilled very precisly in a lathe machine.
I'm gonna try the old magnet and see how much power it has.
Hello, i'm new on board of the Nostromo and i want to thank everyone here for the great job that has been done on all aspects (software, hardware, schematics, mods ect).
This game is a must have, and i was looking for it since the very beginning. I'm now so happy to own one.
I'm a little bit lost in all the posts of this thread and looking for some alternative facehuggers for the slingshots, they're almost broken. Could someone help?
Quoted from Pinballoo:Hi AdreXis,
you can get some at free-play.se
Problem is the replacements will break very easily too. I had a spare set get ruined by forgetting they were in the cabinet and placing something ontop of them. Long term would do us well for someone to make a mold of them.
Quoted from dung:Problem is the replacements will break very easily too. I had a spare set get ruined by forgetting they were in the cabinet and placing something ontop of them. Long term would do us well for someone to make a mold of them.
Yes they are pretty fragile. During gameplay one of the legs just snapped off and landed in the middle of the playfield. I was like what the crap. Then I launched a ball and a spider came out alive on the launcher and got squashed by the ball. Weird shit happening with this game.
Quoted from Averell:We have to test this and first find the perfect magnet. The mounting is not the main problem.
If the gear rack have to be modified it must drilled very precisly in a lathe machine.
I'm gonna try the old magnet and see how much power it has.
I've had zero problems w my magnet coming off the tongue. The natural magnet has plenty of grab for the ball. I put a small spot of KB weld on mine, and new shrink to seal the assembly....Don't see a problem here....Over 1000 games and solid...
Only occasional hiccup w tongue is it " floats "above the drive gear, and will occasionally drift down a bit. I'm drilling a small hole in the back of mine and using a tensioner to insure the teeth stay engaged, and detent remains in reliable fashion ( crucial to my strobe working correctly...)
The assembly has two screws next to the servo drive, I think it's possible to adjust the gear rack.
These two screws just need to be glued to be fixed when the gear rack is working properly and maybe there's no modification needed?
I will check this...
Quoted from Averell:The assembly has two screws next to the servo drive, I think it's possible to adjust the gear rack.
These two screws just need to be glued to be fixed when the gear rack is working properly and maybe there's no modification needed?
I will check this...
I adjusted those, then picture ( took it completely apart to understand it even though mine was fine). Very rarely does it happen, but a slight tensioner ( spring) would ensure the tongue shaft doesn't "drift" down during play, and gear mech stays engaged.
It will generally happen after a long evening on the game, but still rare. Important for me now as that switch will also trigger the strobe, so don't want it moving.
Link your findings....
I did another improvement today at the eject hole.
Drilled the two outer holes through the playfield and use drive-in nuts to ensure the bracket doesn't loose again or the screws pull out of the playfield.
The drive-in nuts are countersunk 2 mm so that the eject assy doesn't collide.
This is the same crap Bally, Williams and other manufacturer already have done.
Quoted from dung:Yeah. sorry but we lost each other. I am not some diaper wiper who thinks everything has to be perfect. things break and being someone who collects the rare and obscure, so what?
This is a toy. A big, expensive, toy. It is nothing more. It is not an art piece. It is not a museum piece. It was an amusement device intended for kids to beat the snot out of. The only thing we can agree on is that only the weirdest pinheads will understand you.
Quoted from dung:Problem is the replacements will break very easily too. I had a spare set get ruined by forgetting they were in the cabinet and placing something ontop of them. Long term would do us well for someone to make a mold of them.
So why give money for such a useless mod ... its just a pinball machine and it will play with or without a facehugger with a tail .. or no tail.
So read this thread .. I found on ebay some cheap replacement, does not look like the original but good enough ...
Quoted from BladeFury:Went with 3 of the mini beacons! Love the little added effect of these beacons and also during attract mode
[quoted image]
Those are bad ass. Where did you get them and what part #. Trying to figure out where these could be used on Metallica !!
Quoted from Franking1302:I order here, perfekt lights 1:12, Averell says right, there only work with the topper-beacons, very easy to install.
https://www.pistenking.com/shop/product_info.php?info=p112_rundumkennleuchte-in-1-12.html
Quoted from Averell:Scale 1:12
[quoted image]
Regarding the mini beacons there's still to check the power supply.
As the user PER mentioned, the BB beacons are operated with PWM and it's not ensured that the mini beacons can work properly with PWM on a long distance.
Their specification is 4-12 volt with an integrated eletronic circuit.
I will start a request to the manufacturer to make sure how to intergrate the mini beacons properly... maybe a relais is required?
The manufacturer (Fechtner) already answered my question.
Mr. Fechnter said that the mini beacons had been developed for 12 volt direct current only.
They give no permission to use these beacons under PWM-current.
"Hallo,
wir können dafür keine Freigabe erteilen.
Die RKLs sind für die Versorgung mit Gleichspannung entwickelt worden.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
(Kind regards)
Fechtner-Modellbau
Frank Fechtner"
Quoted from Averell:When disaster strikes...
... just wanted to clean the playfield and then I found THIS!
USB-connector fell of the IO-Board... WTF!
[quoted image]
It happen to me too with a usb cable too tighten. I ve tried to resolder but the board was still not working.
Quoted from noitbe1:It happen to me too with a usb cable too tighten. I ve tried to resolder but the board was still not working.
Re-flow the paste & then provide strain relief. Bonza.
I will send the board to an expert here in Germany, he's one of a few people who is very familiar with alle Pinball systems and I'm sure this small connector is easy going for him.
But I'm very upset about the quality...
I'm certain this has been discussed many times but can someone point me towards how best to install the Alien LE Beacons onto an alien standard?
The next modification on the Xeno Servo-Board.
I have unsoldered the three pins from the JAW-Connector because it's a bad and non standard "solution"!
I have drilled an extra hole for a three-pole connector (2.54 grid dimension) as marked and soldered the new connector.
Now the Xeno Servo can plugged directly to the Xeno Servo-Board without glue or similar with ensured function due to a better standard connection.
On the backside there are two bridges needed and the three-pole connector is connected to the ground soldered through the extra hole.
Thanks to user PER for this easy but very effective modification.
Quoted from TomDK:So why give money for such a useless mod ... its just a pinball machine and it will play with or without a facehugger with a tail .. or no tail.
So read this thread .. I found on ebay some cheap replacement, does not look like the original but good enough ...
I don't find such cheap facehugger on Ebay, do you have a link?
Check this thread, I posted a link already here. They were a little smaller and from China but for the cheap-guys a good replacement.
EDIT:
ebay.com link: Alien Covenant Movie Toys Alien Chestburster Alien Facehugger Action Figure
Sorry ... 9 dollar, hopefully not too expensive for just a toy.
8,54 Dollar:
ebay.com link: 4in Toys FG028 Alien Facehugger Model Fire Girl Toys Action Solider Figure
Joined the Alien club yesterday and became the proud owner of an Alien LE in green. Have been busy fine-tuning for two evenings and all goes well sofar.
One problem I cannot solve: the right beacon is on but doesn’t turn. The left works fine. The first day both beacons worked as they should as far as I can remember, but now not.
Checked the wires but all seems connected. Haven’t checked the power on the wires yet. Any advice how to continue my check is kindly appreciated.
Seems like if I want to remove a beacon dome I have to take out the monitor, since that blocks the screws that attaches the beacon to the top of the backbox.
Quoted from adamross:I'm certain this has been discussed many times but can someone point me towards how best to install the Alien LE Beacons onto an alien standard?
Can anyone direct me to where this may have been discussed? How to attach, and where best to connect?
Quoted from adamross:Can anyone direct me to where this may have been discussed? How to attach, and where best to connect?
check out the members club thread and search for my name and libtech. also sweeny provides some pics as well. It's all documented in there:
good luck
Quoted from Maurice:Joined the Alien club yesterday and became the proud owner of an Alien LE in green. Have been busy fine-tuning for two evenings and all goes well sofar.
One problem I cannot solve: the right beacon is on but doesn’t turn. The left works fine. The first day both beacons worked as they should as far as I can remember, but now not.
Checked the wires but all seems connected. Haven’t checked the power on the wires yet. Any advice how to continue my check is kindly appreciated.
Seems like if I want to remove a beacon dome I have to take out the monitor, since that blocks the screws that attaches the beacon to the top of the backbox.
did you get it used or NIB Alien LE?
Just curious
Quoted from delt31:check out the members club thread and search for my name and libtech. also sweeny provides some pics as well. It's all documented in there:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/get-away-from-her-you-bitch-alien-club-all-members-expendable/page/4
good luck
Awesome. Thanks Delt
Quoted from iceman44:Patience.
Turkey day is near! So is some major excitement.
U mean a new alien pin Announcement right after Christmas story on tnt ?
Quoted from Oneangrymo:U mean a new alien pin Announcement right after Christmas story on tnt ?
LOL, yeah prob before that. Xmas story starts running right after Halloween.
Quoted from Maurice:did you get it used or NIB Alien LE?
Just curious
It’s a NIB LE green. Very lucky to get this one of the last ones.
I got one of the last NIB LE greens, love it. And will probably get the new version coming soon.
Quoted from iceman44:I got one of the last NIB LE greens, love it. And will probably get the new version coming soon.
The new version ??!! When ?
Quoted from iceman44:Stay tuned. Soon.
I’ve been waiting since u posted about this nearly one year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:I’ve been waiting since u posted about this nearly one year ago
Well you don't have to wait much longer now. I'm not making them myself.
Quoted from iceman44:I got one of the last NIB LE greens, love it. And will probably get the new version coming soon.
X2 I am also in on this new model that I have heard is coming.
Quoted from iceman44:Well you don't have to wait much longer now. I'm not making them myself.
What r u going to do with ur green le?
Quoted from iceman44:Stay tuned. Soon.
Oh god, not this song and dance again. I had a buddy call me a week before expo saying that it was going to be announced. That their source had already put in a pre-order. Expo came and went and again no announcement. Either put up some evidence or shut it because the horse is not only dead, its corpse so damn decade there is nothing left to hit.
Quoted from dung:Oh god, not this song and dance again. I had a buddy call me a week before expo saying that it was going to be announced. That their source had already put in a pre-order. Expo came and went and again no announcement. Either put up some evidence or shut it because the horse is not only dead, its corpse so damn decade there is nothing left to hit.
+1
Quoted from Oneangrymo:What r u going to do with ur green le?
Keeping my Green le but getting another one for different location
“Shut it” Dung? I don’t give a flying F what you think. The evidence will be the game and then you can stfu.
Omg people need to stop talking about TBL Dunger, oh yeah nvm, that happened before this didn’t it
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