I just fixed issues with the slingshot led not working properly because the « special » led was down which made all the line to fail. I’ve found this issue easily within the test mode so it was well done. Maybe your Led issue is the same thing.

Freeplay was fixed by a software reset.

I have all switches working except 4. One is the right ramp and it seems like i need to replace it and adjust the armature (does not always work when depressed by hand). The drop targets register in test, but not in game. They register as active when up instead of down, which is weird? APC lights do not come on, ever, no sounds in game. I will have to test the apc lights in test to see if they work but I wasn't paying attention when I was doing it earlier.

The display issue was that the power for the airlock lcd comes from a usb hub under the playfield (really terrible design). I reset the connections and that is fixed.

The leds are a bigger problem. The center pcb for the game has one spot target soldered directly to it. Several of the lights in the game (mostly around the side ramp) flash white and pink when they shouldn't. The rollover lanes do as well. This happens in test, attract, and in game. Something is off and wondering if the boards has issues.

I will fix it and I am in it for the right amount to be happy, but I have an inkling that had I been in less of a hurry some of this would have been pretty apparent when I picked it up. When we first tried it switches and coils were out. After that I was tossing the ball around to see if it was working and said good enough since I had 10 hours driving ahead of me. Oh well.

0.94 was a special release of code made for some games which had drop target boards with inverted switch logic. AFAIK very few games had these. It sounds like your game has the "correct" hardware that will work with newer code, so this is actually good.

Anyway to get hold of the .96 code to test this theory? I know 1.2 is out there, but would be nice to update and test this for now.

Don't worry too much about those reverse drops, they're almost surely wired correctly and will work fine with new code. At least that was our experience. You may end up needing a center PCB, but it's probably worth inspecting it for defects on the traces and connections first. It could just be repairable, sounds like the IO lines aren't quite correct that controls the LED colors. As Ferret said, you likely will be fine with those IO boards, hold off. I had to replace the one in the center PCB with a newer IO board, but the red ones were fine in the other 3 positions. Upgrade the USB cables if you have ones without ferrite cores too, cheap cables can cause weird IO issues. The Xeno is your biggest issue yet smallest effect on game play. You have the one board or two board design? (Look behind the back of the playfield). You'll need the newer motor/server Xeno head and the two board design if you want to make it work. That'll mean flashing code and making some delicate wiring harnesses too. Leave the Xeno for last, the rest will be easier.

I have a one board design. Making a wiring harness is not a big issue for me. I will look to see how many/what length usb are needed and ordered replacements. Xeno will be an expensive upgrade as ordering a whole new one is 400+. I might see about a new mount for the motor.

With the Xeno ... this seems top be the onliest way to buy new !

I bought here on pinside from a very nice guy an old Xeno and he told me several times: No way to get this to work !!

If your Xeno is the old design (old motor), there's no way to get it to the new design unless you're good at custom metal fabrication. We attempted modifications to the metal structure to get the new motor to fit, and it's just not worth it. Buy the whole new Xeno mech, and the two new boards that drive it. Making the wiring harnesses is the hardest part IMHO, because the crimp connectors are so small. The Jaw board will need to be flashed and Atmel fuses configured, which I posted instructions and the code for it in the Weyland Yutani thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/weyland-yutani-dedicated-to-keeping-3-alien-specimens-alive/page/11#post-4845810

All that being said, you can upgrade the game (Computer, Single LEDs, v1.2x code) and have it playing minus the Xeno.

@mavatnix: Do you know if the "head" and "mandible" , the black outer parts from the xeno, will fit in a newer Alien ?
Background: I bought a older complete xeno and would like to airbrush the blackparts a little and bring them in my Alien. Therefor would be great to know if it will fit ...

EDIT: Oh boy .. I am 51 but feeling very very old: I bought this Xeno from you

Yes, the black plastic parts didn't appear to change, that one I sold you can fit your game as far as I know! It was just the metal and parts inside the Xeno mech that changed design. You can airbrush it and swap it right into your game, there's a screw on each side to hold it on.

PS. The one I sold you is the one we tried modifying to fit the new motor!

I will probably just do a bulk order on everything at once. I think I have all the parts bookmarked now.

Game is sorta better. all switches save drops are working. On starting a ball half the time the game senses a switch going off and then autolaunches the ball. I put it in edge test and pounded the crap out of it for five minutes, but nothing is going off.

I have 5 spot targets and two inserts (C in apc and the right inlane) that are not lighting. I have lights on the center pcb and upper pcb that are showing the wrong colors at times.

Next step will be ordering new usb cables. I just need to figure out what lengths to order first.

Order ones long enough to go all the way to the back of the bottom cabinet for each IO board, you'll eliminate the USB hub when you upgrade the computer, as the newer computer has more USB ports.

That alone seems like a good enough reason to get rid of the computer. That hub was a serious wtf when I saw it.

Yep. 1.5m USB A to mini are fine, length wise. be certain to buy good ones, and strain relief where they plug to the I/O boards....source of the majority of problems...behind acrylic plastics, the worst design flaw, imho

Was going to do amazon basics, figured they would be fine. How many are there? 5? Not at the game atm, but figured I could order today.

Just wondering if any of you guys have noticed that when doing a coil test not all react?

Hot glued toys on PF with better position. (See on pic)
New PS and USB installed. Game is much more better already and fail become rare now. (Only on really long multi) Waiting for the caps to fix this last thing.
D1D138C1-CC9C-4F78-8A5A-1124491ECEF2 (resized).jpeg

The switch which goes on « super » target and get the loop behind the xeno head doesn’t always register the ball. This shoot is hard to make (at least for me) so it’s a be annoying when the shoot is not even register by the pin.
The switch work properly on test mode so that’s the thing: it seems like when the ball come too fast, the inductive switch doesn’t work properly.
Anyone had the same issue or any idea how to help this?
Tks

So two things to point out if you're not already aware.....

The best shot imo in this game (there are many).... is to hit a ripper left orbit and assuming the game let's the ball go all the way around, don't touch the flippers and let the ball go off the right flipper and it will spin by itself right to your top left flipper setting up a perfect chestburster attempt! Love it

The other thing is to take a pair of plyers and squeeze the metal rail that is shared by the chestburster and right orbit. It will allow the ball to hit the right orbit cleaner bc stock that metal rail angles out a little too the right causing some balls to get caught.

The chestburster shot still is harder than it should be as a really fast shot that doesn't hit the target will not be caught by the underneath switch, even on easy setting but that's just the way it is. It works just usually registers on the way back. Great shot still.

Tks. Do you have a pic or link of the metal rail squeeze?
To me the fact that the loop doesn’t register when too fast is not normal.

? No ramp squeeze here..Chest burster is tough, but registers fine here..

I’ve tried to test this shot/switch by hand also: always working. It’s only while playing if the ball goes too fast it register like 50%. Not saying it’s major but annoying because during ambush or tunnel mode: you need this shot badly in a limited time and it’s a hard shot.

I had a target switch not registering for a bit...drove me crazy...finally took it out of the game, realigned and reinstalled...Been fine since.

This game is deep and fast...need all the switches registering obviously... maybe try to reposition slightly...

mine is like that too - by hand 100%. In game - shot is not as reliable unless it hits the cb Target. I have many extra ones - I might try to switch out to see a diff.

The squeeze trick is not for the chestburster but the right orbit to make it smoother. Made a big diff on mine and my original.

Edit

My orbit is so freakin fast I don't react until it's too late sometimes..Those sensor switches remind me of the hall effect switch on WOZ.. I'd try loosening and shifting it just a bit so it's "seeing" the ball as much as possible.

Lol I just gave mine a wax today and no kidding! Rockets around

yeah i tried and replaced with 3 other switches and it's the same way. It works fine it just needs to be so close to the target to begin with that it really doesn't make too big of a diff as it basically just hits the target and it works that way too. I think I have my setting on easy for chestburster - do you guys keep it on that too?

Edit - so after some more testing the switch and Target after fine it's the speed of that shot that sometimes make it ricochet to the left and the ball doesn't go over the switch spot anymore or Target.....

I haven’t test the easy thing. Anyway i sure can live with that since the chestburster is in several area. I might test some stuff with the switch to help it to register.

After playing (a lot) of this game, I think it should be rank top 10 or even top 5 for so many reasons gameplaywise. This is a blast to play for me and my friends. I’m not even talking about the art which I like as well: This is the party star in my house now... it should have sell well I think. Hopefully they’ll make more.
I have to recognize that I never played it before buying it : it’s really rare here as well and don’t come to the show often.

I just installed the caps. After 10 minutes 3 flippers stoped working. I reboot the pin and it was working again. Not sure what went wrong...

Edit: after playing long time after that it didn’t happen again.

The caps change is huge. It feel more playing AFM now... the flippers are so much stronger and the ball is really fast!! Crazy. This should have been sold as a kit. This is a must done on this pin.
First thing to change.
I might have to change the difficulty though: the game feel much more easy now. Even all the hard shot are much easier to get.
Great.

Anyone in the Phoenix Az have an Alien to play? I really believe this pin in a HUO setting has to be one of the most immersive pins ever..

It is

There is an alien for sale on Facebook marketplace usa

Careful. He is claiming it as a rare prototype with the retractable tongue. $20,000

Could be a loose USB cable (always check before putting the hood back down).

Yep, the caps are a must...gamechanger, especially during MB's. Now on to the wimpy 12v ps....

I’ve it all set ! USB, New PS and caps! Play is fantastic now.
Last thing is I need the plastic set but I can live with that.
Took some time but I caught up

Sweet!!! Different game w with the correct juice, for sure. Mine's very, very stable now. Definitely save the plastic swap for when you have a lot of time, and are ready to utter endless profanity.

Worst set I've ever changed out...But definitely worth it.

I agree with the power as well. Compared to my original alien this one has never reset once. In fact no issues at all since I got it. Incredible

I continue to be impressed with y’allz skills. Alien is amazing even without these upgrades. I very much look forward to having some time/energy to put into upgrading it to what you guys have done. I think I will get that time come July. I’ll humbly be requesting assistance from the community even though most of the steps are documented. With this upgrade, I’ll be testing the waters of my abilities and your assistance will be much appreciated!

I had one reset since my last caps upgrade. It happened during Ambush but only once with the scoop (ball went to the Airlock and then the game froze and reset). I can't say what exactly happened but I would bet it is more a software issue than hardware.

No resets so far, pin out of the box.

All the resets happened once a multi was involved but moreover ambush and the air lock. I can’t say now with the caps but it could come from an exception not dealt within the code...

If the attract mode comes back quickly, within a few secs, then it's software. If it does a full reboot,with BIOS message and beeps then it is more likely a power supply issue.

Does this caps mod work for both SE and LE?

Sure, no differences in tech specifications ...

I also had a few resets (with full reboot + BIOS message) during multiball .
Can somebody tell me more details about the cap mod?
What parts are needed?

Thanks

Yes the attract mode came back quickly. Thanks for the info.

All the infos are there:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/heighway-pinball-support-full-throttle-and-alien/page/15#post-4593866

Thanks!