(Topic ID: 106728)

ALIEN PINBALL - Game Over, Man, Game Over


By HeighwayPinball

5 years ago



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  • Alien Heighway Pinball, 2017

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There are 26671 posts in this topic. You are on page 474 of 534.
#23651 1 year ago

Hey guys, as some of you are aware during moving my Alien LE, it fell onto my left leg causing a fracture. All is fine, Im recovering, and there wasn't a single damage to the Alien except one of siren lights is slightly tilted, so I ordered a replacement. Everything was working fine, but now the top two egg pop things don't light up. I tried the single lamp test, it doesn't work. Does anyone have any ideas? I lifted the play field everything is ok inside
THanks

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#23652 1 year ago

Damn! Free-play.se has the led boards that go in it, but it's gotta be a plug or something.. Maybe just need to reflow the solder on that.

#23653 1 year ago

I posted this lamp matrix on pinwiki, http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair#Lamp_Matrix. These lamps work in a chain, and if one bulb is out or broken all the lamps after it in the chain will not work. In this case it looks like somewhere in the chain 1-A may have a bulb broken or missing. In single lamp test follow that chain from the beginning and see where the fault starts. If you don't have any extra LED lamps to test with, grab one from another string temporarily to test replace to see if you can find the culprit.

#23654 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I posted this lamp matrix on pinwiki, http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair#Lamp_Matrix. These lamps work in a chain, and if one bulb is out or broken all the lamps after it in the chain will not work. In this case it looks like somewhere in the chain 1-A may have a bulb broken or missing. In single lamp test follow that chain from the beginning and see where the fault starts. If you don't have any extra LED lamps to test with, grab one from another string temporarily to test replace to see if you can find the culprit.

Awesome thanks for the advice I’ll try this

#23655 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I posted this lamp matrix on pinwiki, http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair#Lamp_Matrix. These lamps work in a chain, and if one bulb is out or broken all the lamps after it in the chain will not work. In this case it looks like somewhere in the chain 1-A may have a bulb broken or missing. In single lamp test follow that chain from the beginning and see where the fault starts. If you don't have any extra LED lamps to test with, grab one from another string temporarily to test replace to see if you can find the culprit.

Ok so single lamp test shows that lamp 1-A1 doesn't light up.. then the rest of the lights work until I get to 1-A11. Then the rest doesn't work. So does that mean both 1-A1 and 1-A11 should be replaced? And does anyone know the right LED bulb to match? But you know what, temporarily both eggs lit up yesterday, then went out again. So I dont think its those Jet bulbs that are the problem.
Thanks!!

#23656 1 year ago

First thing I’d check would simply be the security of bulbs 1A-10, 1A-11, 1A-12 in their sockets... since it sounds like the game took a Big Bang (sorry about your leg — heal quickly!) it easily could’ve loosened a lamp in its socket, causing intermittent connection down the chain of lights.

If you do need a new lamp (which sounds like might be the case for 1A-1), TimeBandit is selling replacements that seem to get thumbs-up from those who’ve bought them (which reminds me that I should order some for myself!).

It’s also possible that there’s a bad trace on the PCB, but start with the easiest solution first.

Good luck!

#23657 1 year ago

Saw All Out War just now . Epic

66B9EC88-7EA5-4479-92A7-158D0CA2C515 (resized).png91EE3FB2-40E7-4919-BE63-817CC50BAD28 (resized).png
#23658 1 year ago

Wow I can’t get over 100M

#23659 1 year ago
Quoted from Freedom:

Saw All Out War just now . Epic
[quoted image][quoted image]

Amazing score!!! Congrats....

#23660 1 year ago
Quoted from Ferret:

First thing I’d check would simply be the security of bulbs 1A-10, 1A-11, 1A-12 in their sockets... since it sounds like the game took a Big Bang (sorry about your leg — heal quickly!) it easily could’ve loosened a lamp in its socket, causing intermittent connection down the chain of lights.
If you do need a new lamp (which sounds like might be the case for 1A-1), TimeBandit is selling replacements that seem to get thumbs-up from those who’ve bought them (which reminds me that I should order some for myself!).
It’s also possible that there’s a bad trace on the PCB, but start with the easiest solution first.
Good luck!

Thanks for all the advice guys. I took apart the 1A-10 etc egg and looked at the light, it looked fine, and was hooked up fine. The 1A bulb is like impossible to get to, its all the way in the left upper corner, if someone has a good way please let me know. I think this is too complicated for me, so I gave up.. at least one egg lights up I guess

#23661 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Thanks for all the advice guys. I took apart the 1A-10 etc egg and looked at the light, it looked fine, and was hooked up fine. The 1A bulb is like impossible to get to, its all the way in the left upper corner, if someone has a good way please let me know. I think this is too complicated for me, so I gave up.. at least one egg lights up I guess

Ironically, a day after you posted (sorry about your leg), my top 2 pops decided to glow green only after cycling. Lamp test somewhat tricky as the GI at the start of the string light white, but the pops are green.

I'll be popping the top in the next day or so (pretty much all the lighting is accessed from underside of PF), and let you know what I find. We may have the same problem (except the broken leg thing...ouch...can't imagine this thing falling on me..hope you are healing....)....mark

#23662 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Ironically, a day after you posted (sorry about your leg), my top 2 pops decided to glow green only after cycling. Lamp test somewhat tricky as the GI at the start of the string light white, but the pops are green.
I'll be popping the top in the next day or so (pretty much all the lighting is accessed from underside of PF), and let you know what I find. We may have the same problem (except the broken leg thing...ouch...can't imagine this thing falling on me..hope you are healing....)....mark

The first thing I would try is swapping the I/O board. Much easier to get to.

#23663 1 year ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

The first thing I would try is swapping the I/O board. Much easier to get to.

Honestly, I wouldn’t. It’s likely not the cause of the issue, and you risk breaking the fragile usb connector and header pins. (I’ve broken two)

My advice would be (with the game off) to unscrew the board from the playfield just enough so you can reach the light..

Also pull a bulb out from a different I/O board that you can easily reach by removing a few screws..

Plug that known good bulb into 1-A1 and see what happens. My guess is the string will light up, but if not slowly work up the chain plugging that known good bulb into each socket up to the pops.

I doubt the pops themselves are the issue, but it’s possible.

#23664 1 year ago

One other thing, as ferret eluded to the traces in the earlier PCBs are.. delicate to put it nicely. So if wiggling a socket causes any change (flickering/solid lights) you may need to reflow the solder for that socket or even add a jumper in some cases.

#23665 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Honestly, I wouldn’t. It’s likely not the cause of the issue, and you risk breaking the fragile usb connector and header pins. (I’ve broken two)
My advice would be (with the game off) to unscrew the board from the playfield just enough so you can reach the light..
Also pull a bulb out from a different I/O board that you can easily reach by removing a few screws..
Plug that known good bulb into 1-A1 and see what happens. My guess is the string will light up, but if not slowly work up the chain plugging that known good bulb into each socket up to the pops.
I doubt the pops themselves are the issue, but it’s possible.

I stand corrected

knockerlover Were you able to repair the broken connector/header pins on the I/O boards?

#23666 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Honestly, I wouldn’t. It’s likely not the cause of the issue, and you risk breaking the fragile usb connector and header pins. (I’ve broken two)
My advice would be (with the game off) to unscrew the board from the playfield just enough so you can reach the light..
Also pull a bulb out from a different I/O board that you can easily reach by removing a few screws..
Plug that known good bulb into 1-A1 and see what happens. My guess is the string will light up, but if not slowly work up the chain plugging that known good bulb into each socket up to the pops.
I doubt the pops themselves are the issue, but it’s possible.

That's going to be my approach...in my case, the concern is all of the led's light in the GI (white) only, so in single lamp test, they all just stay on. In theory, A1 could still be the problem, but also suspicious of the pops. Changing (touching) those I/O boards makes me nervous for the very reason you state. That connection is so poor....

It amazes me how some areas of the game are over engineered, where other, very basic concepts (connectivity) where not. Those ramps had to be crazy expensive to make and assemble, yet the Apron is the worst I've ever seen (1 example).....we stay the course.....

#23667 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

That's going to be my approach...in my case, the concern is all of the led's light in the GI (white) only, so in single lamp test, they all just stay on. In theory, A1 could still be the problem, but also suspicious of the pops. Changing (touching) those I/O boards makes me nervous for the very reason you state. That connection is so poor....
It amazes me how some areas of the game are over engineered, where other, very basic concepts (connectivity) where not. Those ramps had to be crazy expensive to make and assemble, yet the Apron is the worst I've ever seen (1 example).....we stay the course.....

I think the playfield glass is the most prominent example of over engineering.

#23668 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I think the playfield glass is the most prominent example of over engineering.

Hehe, true. But, so nice if you have a tight space. The ability to lift off versus slide out is awesome for my cramped arcade room!

#23669 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I think the playfield glass is the most prominent example of over engineering.

Easily the heaviest...

#23670 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

That's going to be my approach...in my case, the concern is all of the led's light in the GI (white) only, so in single lamp test, they all just stay on. In theory, A1 could still be the problem, but also suspicious of the pops. Changing (touching) those I/O boards makes me nervous for the very reason you state. That connection is so poor....
It amazes me how some areas of the game are over engineered, where other, very basic concepts (connectivity) where not. Those ramps had to be crazy expensive to make and assemble, yet the Apron is the worst I've ever seen (1 example).....we stay the course.....

Please keep me updated with ur results . I’m going to order a replacement a1 and start there , thanks for everyone’s help

#23671 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Lamp test somewhat tricky as the GI at the start of the string light white, but the pops are green.

The single lamp test only uses the preferred color of the LED. GI is normally white and the pops are normally green.

If you want to test all the lamp colors, use the All Lamps Test instead. This will cycle through the R, G, B components. This can be helpful in isolating a fault that only appears with certain color combinations.

#23672 1 year ago
Quoted from bcd:

The single lamp test only uses the preferred color of the LED. GI is normally white and the pops are normally green.
If you want to test all the lamp colors, use the All Lamps Test instead. This will cycle through the R, G, B components. This can be helpful in isolating a fault that only appears with certain color combinations.

Great help!!!.... seems odd, though, that all lamps fire in single lamp test on #1. On initial boot, the the outer greens cycle on the pops, the eventually lock on primary color.

Anxious to go after this one...serial RGB doesn't scare me ( early WOZ adopter...enough said)

#23673 1 year ago
Quoted from bcd:

The single lamp test only uses the preferred color of the LED. GI is normally white and the pops are normally green.
If you want to test all the lamp colors, use the All Lamps Test instead. This will cycle through the R, G, B components. This can be helpful in isolating a fault that only appears with certain color combinations.

What I really want on the next code release is an option to turn off the timeout in lamp test..

#23674 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

What I really want on the next code release is an option to turn off the timeout in lamp test..

You mean that it goes back to attract mode if you leave it unattended for too long?

It's supposed to happen only if the coin door is closed, however it looks like that doesn't always work. I'll put that on the todo list.

#23675 1 year ago

So had to jump down and take a look ( can`t go under the hood tonight)..In lamp mode, they are all still locked on primary color..So will have to look up next in line after the primaries, and start w that one, I suppose. This would cause the entire string after to not chase, correct?

#23676 1 year ago

I think audio in attract mode option would be awesome, as well....can only imagine what clip lies in there that would definitely get your attention...

#23677 1 year ago

Does anyone know where I can get the non-teardrop ramps lower slats (see red arrows)? I am sick of the ball falling out of there and having cardboard jammed in.

parts (resized).png
#23678 1 year ago

Perhaps I’m missing something here, but is there a way to reset the high score table?

#23679 1 year ago
Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:

Perhaps I’m missing something here, but is there a way to reset the high score table?

Go into test mode, select Actions, then select Reset High Scores.

A countdown timer will appear. To confirm, press up to change NO to YES, and then press enter one more time.

#23680 1 year ago
Quoted from bcd:

The single lamp test only uses the preferred color of the LED. GI is normally white and the pops are normally green.
If you want to test all the lamp colors, use the All Lamps Test instead. This will cycle through the R, G, B components. This can be helpful in isolating a fault that only appears with certain color combinations.

UPDATE - The good news: oneangrymo - bcd and ferret were correct in my case, 1-A1 was the problem...swapped out an easy one to grab, and life is good (have spares from timebandit, will assemble a few for stash and replace the one I robbed.
The not so good news - I was able to loosen the screws and pull the board just enough (barely) to get that one (1-A1) changed....if it's further down that string, you'll need to loosen other screws, that can only be accessed by removing the I/O board (can be done, but a much riskier task). This could really be a PITA to troubleshoot. Hopefully, your 1-A1 is simply bad or knocked loose....good luck!!!!

Total time to change it out - <20 minutes..... (putting new replacement in will be very quick)...Alien alive and back to full strength!!!!!

#23681 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

UPDATE - The good news: oneangrymo - bcd and ferret were correct in my case, 1-A1 was the problem...swapped out an easy one to grab, and life is good (have spares from timebandit, will assemble a few for stash and replace the one I robbed.
The not so good news - I was able to loosen the screws and pull the board just enough (barely) to get that one (1-A1) changed....if it's further down that string, you'll need to loosen other screws, that can only be accessed by removing the I/O board (can be done, but a much riskier task). This could really be a PITA to troubleshoot. Hopefully, your 1-A1 is simply bad or knocked loose....good luck!!!!
Total time to change it out - &lt;20 minutes..... (putting new replacement in will be very quick)...Alien alive and back to full strength!!!!!

Awesome I think that is my problem now I just need a replacement I messaged time bandit . Is it just like a regular bulb ? Or is it one of those flat led things like under the poppers ?

#23682 1 year ago

Forgot to give props to @knocklover for the idea of loosening the board!!!

timebandit has these available know, and are used a lot in this game...The pops are different...reached out to Mike ( he's on vacation)....said he'd look at them when he gets back...

#23683 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I think the playfield glass is the most prominent example of over engineering.

Funny thing is they copied the old 70s Fireball design which sucked and they stopped making them that way.

#23684 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Funny thing is they copied the old 70s Fireball design which sucked and they stopped making them that way.

I actually like the Fireball style glass, much easier to get out in tight spot, and you don't have to worry as much about where you put the glass down while it's removed. What I don't like about the Alien glass is the odd feel of the corners on the lock bar, and of course it is really heavy, these weren't problems on those Bally glasses.

I remember when I played one of the first Full Throttles at Expo in 2014, they asked me what I thought of the game, and I said I liked the way it played, but the gray frame around the glass and the sharp corners on the bar were deal breakers to me, despite making some adjustments for Alien, they never did really get it right.

#23685 1 year ago

Is the glass inside alien normal size ? Thinking to swap for sheet of pdi

#23686 1 year ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

Is the glass inside alien normal size ? Thinking to swap for sheet of pdi

Standard Wide body fits

#23687 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

UPDATE - The good news: oneangrymo - bcd and ferret were correct in my case, 1-A1 was the problem...swapped out an easy one to grab, and life is good (have spares from timebandit, will assemble a few for stash and replace the one I robbed.
The not so good news - I was able to loosen the screws and pull the board just enough (barely) to get that one (1-A1) changed....if it's further down that string, you'll need to loosen other screws, that can only be accessed by removing the I/O board (can be done, but a much riskier task). This could really be a PITA to troubleshoot. Hopefully, your 1-A1 is simply bad or knocked loose....good luck!!!!
Total time to change it out - &lt;20 minutes..... (putting new replacement in will be very quick)...Alien alive and back to full strength!!!!!

What bulbs do I need to buy? Would like some spares.

#23690 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Is this what you used to replace A1? Im confused.. thanks

Those are the correct insert bulbs, but they come in strips that need the header pins soldered on.

#23691 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Is this what you used to replace A1? Im confused.. thanks

Yep...as knockerlover points out, you'll need to seperate a single board, and solder the pins....pencil tip iron needed. Pretty straight ahead (I made a basic jig, hoping not to need it that often).

(the pops are definitely a different config, btw)....given you had a fall with yours, the RGB may have just come out of the socket, or is loose (mine was bad).

Did you actually loosen the board (bottom left) to verify that the existing RGB is properly seated in the socket? With the impact (you and your game) encountered, your's may have just fallen out, or loose.... good luck....

#23692 1 year ago

My machine keeps thinking a pinball is missing and continues to run ball search. Won’t start a game now.

Thoughts?

#23693 1 year ago
Quoted from Freedom:

My machine keeps thinking a pinball is missing and continues to run ball search. Won’t start a game now.
Thoughts?

Go into test mode and then into switch matrix then make sure all the trough switches are registering first

#23694 1 year ago

Going after the 12v switching PS.....probably overkill, but headroom is a nice thing, and might cure my hard, occasional resets (along with some mods I'm envisioning down the road):

http://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HRPG-1000

#23695 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Going after the 12v switching PS.....probably overkill, but headroom is a nice thing, and might cure my hard, occasional resets (along with some mods I'm envisioning down the road):
http://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HRPG-1000

Wow. Some of you guys are too advanced! I hope I don’t have to be to own this thing long term...

Anyway, happy new year to the Alien community! Y’all are great!

#23696 1 year ago

If anyone wants to get on the list for a new/replacement computer for alien (drop right in includes memory and ssd loaded with software), let me know. I'd like to get another 3-4 people to make the order so I can turn them for $375 each again.

Scott

#23697 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

If anyone wants to get on the list for a new/replacement computer for alien (drop right in includes memory and ssd loaded with software), let me know. I'd like to get another 3-4 people to make the order so I can turn them for $375 each again.
Scott

Hey Scott. What's the reasoning for the new/replacement computer? Is it preventative and to have a back up "just in case" or has there been cases of an original computer crashing?

I might be interested in getting one.

QSS

#23698 1 year ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

Hey Scott. What's the reasoning for the new/replacement computer? Is it preventative and to have a back up "just in case" or has there been cases of an original computer crashing?
I might be interested in getting one.
QSS

Mainly backup, I've know of a few ssd's that lost the image, but that is recoverable. Main thing is to have a spare that can be dropped in if anything ever happens to the cpu - look at how much pin2K motherboards go for now....

#23699 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

If anyone wants to get on the list for a new/replacement computer for alien (drop right in includes memory and ssd loaded with software), let me know. I'd like to get another 3-4 people to make the order so I can turn them for $375 each again.
Scott

I'm in for a spare computer. Getting close to having a spare or more for everything.

#23700 1 year ago
Quoted from onedeath:

I'm in for a spare computer. Getting close to having a spare or more for everything.

LOL, just need that repro playfield and cabinet and we'll be all set!!

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