Exactly the same place where I made my cut

Huge thanks to Helmut for upgrading and fitting new power supply board, 70v PSU and relay, no more blowing 6.3a fuses as it doesn’t use them anymore lol
Also helped to wire my beacons which I painted and installed last night and fitting the shaker motor.
Fitted new speakers and acrylics - I’m just deciding whether to light the speakers or fit the green cloth I have, but already the backbox light is much better and the sound is even better, so worth the effort.

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Really like those acrylic speaker standoffs, smart stuff. Always bothered me that the design would create dark spots around them.

Thankyou Aurich,
Praise from you is high praise indeed.
This machine is outstanding and I believe you contributed a lot
Thankyou

Randomness. I don’t want to speak for the designer (I think he reads this occasionally and might chime in) but I think the intent was not to have the ball always follow the same path when exiting the bumpers, because that’s not very interesting.

It sounds like you’re proposing adding something to block the ball from exiting the left side of the pops... I suspect you’d wind up with a ball trap if you tried that.

That is nice!

I might have to make some clear speaker mounts myself. I don't suppose you have a illustrator/cad file for those you can share?

I haven't kept careful track but I think mine is closer to 50%. It makes it to the upper right flipper enough to not annoy me.

If I wanted to try and make it feed the upper right flipper more often, I would play with the sensitivity of one or more of the pop bumpers.

The chest burster shot can also feed it..

Don’t really know, depends on the design of this wireform.
As Jvspin says, I’m going to play with bumper power first. I gonna lower the most close one to the right exit first, what do you think?

Thankyou, much appreciated.
I only have my drawing which I emailed to local company and they cut it for me,
I’ve attached that in case it helps

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To fix this 80% to the left problem (mine is properly leveled and was more of an estimated 70% left eject problem) I adjusted the bottom bumper to be less sensative by increasing the gap of the switch - meaning the ball had to hit this bumper harder to activate the bump. This lets many of the balls in that area hit that bumper without activation and now more often than not the ball has a right eject for upper right flipper feed. Makes game more fun indeed.

Well that is an idea but I’m a bit reluctant right now to adjust a switch that works properly.
In fact, that would be the same effect if I can lower the power coil of the bumper. I will try this first.
Thanks for your help.

Sorry to ask as It did not appear obvious to me but what is the aim of this acrylic standoff?
Thanks

Hi, the aim was to remove the 2 square unlit areas on the translite caused by the solid wooden standoffs and the leds diverting up around them.
Now the lights are in a square, unblocked and illuminates all the way along the bottom, it wasn’t a major issue, just something I wanted to do especially as I wanted to put better quality speakers in.

Completely agree!!!...those 2 areas being dark is noticable, and would look great if backlit, imho....

If anyone is going to have sets of the acrylic speaker mounts made, I'm down for a set!

ditto.....and ahh..someday for a PETG plastic set.....

I’d be in as well!

me three

the sound guy is in for one

count me in also please

Count me in please.

Hopefully I should have news on a full plastic set very soon, they will be slightly thinner than the originals which were too thick which is why a lot of the post nuts are only just on.
FYI Daniel at Freeplay had the original plastic sets in stock earlier this week and will be getting more in, you can go on the site and put your email in to be notified as soon as they are in stock if you prefer those

I want a set to...

The acrylic set sure does look good.. nice work!

During my Alien rework I also upgraded the Xeno servo, as described here several times. For those who also want/need to do this I have some hints:
- I used the Tower Pro MG90D instead of the often stated MG90S. The D has also metals gears but stronger double bearings and an alu body
- The height of the MG servos extends the original SG and clashes with a screw in the mounting. I removed the washer und countersunk the screw's hole.
- My servo turned in the wrong direction. I followed https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=31891197&postcount=2, solution 3
- Finally I improved the connection on the servo PCB. The original connector layout is too small and heighway "fixed" this with 3 bent wire pieces and some hot glue. Additionally the swapped the power lines for any reason... So I decided to place an additional male connector with correct wiring at some suitable place on the PCB. Much better...

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Happy to be able to say that I've joined the club!
I was lucky to be able to buy my machine from Drypaint.

Looks like i have a bit of reading to do - 471 pages and counting.

I have an issue that may have been covered before - when I get a high score, I am able to put LOG but when I hit the launch button after the G, the machine turns off then reboots and there are no initials next to that score. Anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

Oh, and the acrylic speaker mounts look great - I'd definitely be in for some.

The people worldwide that are kicking F ing ass on this pin and the Alien community is AWESOME!

Andrew should have open sourced this venture a long time ago. Love this game!

This thread is great. I've got no skin in the game other than I've really enjoyed the games I've gotten in on a working Alien. If things would have went differently, I would most likely have bought one.

It really is a pleasure watching this thread though. Every time I check in some new progress has been made and there always seems to be more on the horizon. Great work everyone Really glad it seems like the owners will be able to keep these working as long as they want.

Not that I know about... high score/champ registration works fine AFAIK. Are you running 1.2 code?

New PC arrived with ram.
Spare amp from amazon.
Sling leds from Redshift
2 metal gears as I need to change 1 in my Xeno and have 1 spare
Santa’s sled arriving soon with some more goodies

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Advice needed -
Since getting my Alien it would randomly blow the secondary 6.3a fuse.
Since changing the round transformer for a new type with relay it’s absolutely fine.
However, I then added a shaker and now randomly boots to bios and I see from trawling through posts that changing settings on shaker or disconnecting can solve this, but I am adding beacons and it seems that the PSU is already on the limit.
So my question is, can I simply change the 150w 12v 12.5A Delta switching supply for the next model up which is 348w 12v 29a ?
They have same connections, voltage output trimmer and is only marginally bigger in physical size.
My thought being that the game doesn’t need anywhere near 348w and so would not be pulling 29a either but would give that bit of headroom for those moments when the power draw would spike.
This unit has electronic variable speed fan cooling and is cheaper than the original which is $79 on Freeplay but this more powerful one is £59 on Amazon which is not limited in supply and comes with 1 year warranty?
Any thoughts appreciated
Finally, regarding beacons, I’ve painted the bases, drilled and fixed them, done the wires down to the plug.
But there seems to be different advice on which pins to use.
Can anyone supply a pic of where they have theirs connected please, Helmut told me to put the red opposite the other red on pin 2 and the black on the opposite side at the far end but pic I’ve seen on here shows red the same but the black on adjacent pin 2nd from end.
I tried where Helmut told me to connect and game reset right at the end of start up. I’ve checked both beacons with a 9v battery and they are fine.
Sorry for long post
Photos and specs for new PSU and comparison to existing

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I have my lower playfield fully populated with my production version, proper GI bulbs now. Nine in total here. Two at left outlane, two each at the inlanes and three behind the right drop bank. These are the bulbs that are not behind metal ball guides and are visible to the eye and have an effect on the playfield light. There are a couple more up the top that are visible and I'll get to them next.

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Oh yeah man this game is the best! Its my favorite in my collection, and probably the rarest I guess. The gameplay is just amazingly fun. The LE i have is far superior build quality compared to the SE I had. The only problem I have.. only problem... is very rarely maybe 1 out of 100 times, the ball launcher launches two balls instead of one. It doesn't bother me too much, but the trough/launcher I think could have been made better. My favorite is the loader fight, the lights on the playfield with a circling yellow pattern is awesome. Adds to the intensity of the game.
Oh and the community is amazing. You guys helped me fix my launcher, i found a replacement side panel to my cracked LE panel. Amazing!

looks amazing!!!!!

Completely agree!!!!....I'd only go back to the beginning of the year or so for a good read.....very, very tough road prior.....

This is important - in 1.1 or earlier, the shaker motor, knocker, and lighting effects would all trigger at about the same time after a high score entry, causing a current surge. In 1.2 these are spaced out more to prevent this.

Yes, I am running code Version 1.2.
The I/O boards are Version 1.4 - not sure if that is different from the 1.4b that I have seen mentioned.

Hmmm, just stumbled on to one solution.
My friend just set the high score.
Entered his initials and used the Start button (not the Launch button) and it worked.

Still not sure why it shut down when I used the Launch button . . .

Heads up......mine was going bonkers last day or so.....resets, non sequential mode stuff, just general chaos....started looking at tough things first.....pay attention to the sounds!!!....turns out one of my xeno switches was way too tight....triggering alot when it wasn't supposed to. Kept hearing it screaming, and finally looked at the obvious.

Those get hit alot...bent both mine out a bit, everything fine.....bottom line...machine alot like WOZ for me...a simple switch stuck, magnetized ball, etc. and the damn thing loses it's mind....

I purchased one of the very last ones in Australia from Wayne and having a blast playing this. So glad i made the decision to grab this one.
The sound, speech, video package is unreal. It is special indeed.

Thanks to Daniel at free play I got
My replacement panel today ! It’s amazing ! My LE is now 100% mint . I feel like cartman at casa bonita!

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Personnaly, I would have kept this one, looks like as an alien that wanted to get out the cab..

Wow...I think I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a needle then do that...but that's just me.

Sensor update. Closer attention with the scope has led to a nice breakthrough. Micro is not needed at all. Quite a few parts can be left off and it seems some future ability for the switches is built in that was not realised on this machine. My replacement will not have a micro and will be simple and cheap. Give me a couple of weeks to test prototypes and they will then be available along with the other parts.

Hell yeah!

Woot! But what the heck additional functionality were they building in?

Hello people,

I have an Alien Le with some issues and am wondering whether someone actually has a manual?

No manual yet, what are the problems and where are you located