Nope, and the acrylics are too thick for washers...this the absolute only serious flaw in the machine imho.....these will have to be changed or they don't make it...

Mark check your pm buddy

I totally agree. This is something that could really put them at risk.

Does anyone know if replacement plastic pieces can be found anywhere? I was examining my play field more carefully today and noticed a crack on the right plastic set that is near the edge of the right play field.. small.. but there.
Thanks

I would strongly suggest a " before and after" look at the plastics, to insure nothing broken and makes it to playfield during use. This acrylic is thick and extremely brittle...very similar to glass.
If it starts to crack, or you notice a piece missing try desperately to find the pieces...

Has anyone tried putting mylar on the underside of the plastics?

That won't help.

If it doesn't help prevent breaking, wouldn't it keep the pieces together at least?

The only real solution is a new set of plastic made using a suitable plastic and not acrylic because it was quick easy and cheap

If anyone wants to tackle a protector set that they'd be willing to make for people who are interested, sell them, make a profit, I don't care, so long as people can get one, I'd be happy to provide the vector outlines for all the plastics.

I don't have my machine yet. But, I'd be interested in vector file(s). Worst case is I can get them made by an online service like Ponoko or something.

It sounds like the plastics are too thick to add a protector in stock form, so one might have to change posts to allow for a protector. Hopefully, I'll find out soon what can be done.

It also sounds like it might be a good idea to get new plastics made that are of a better material. I don't know if anyone has scanned the plastics or not. If not, I might take a stab at it.

Sounds like cpr need those to recreate a petg set

ULEKstore makes a lot of good quality protector sets, pretty sure they used PETG for them too.

You guys ! Rock !! Thanks hope the The protectors can be made !

If wanted I can pass the files to

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/

He makes good quality and the price is okay. The files would make his live much easier.
Great to get protectors even this will not help the guys with the broken plastics.

I don't think protectors are the answer here - they won't fit with the plastics. We need a new plastic set as well

It sounds as if someone with an unmolested pin needs to donate all of their plastics to someone reputable who can reproduce them (CPR?) in PETG, to get a free set in return?

Obviously a risk when there are no replacement parts available.

I was able to put plastic fender washers below the right slingshot plastic by using a technique Clay H. mentioned of inserting them between the star post and the post stud. I also added them to the inlane guide posts to keep the level constant. Perhaps the protectors can mount the same way.

Major question is which edges need to be protected? Take for example the pop bumper plastic below the right side of the Alien head. Since the acrylic is so brittle, which of the following is better?

1) The typical protector that extends beyond the plastic. This protects against edge strikes but creates a shelf that can be hit from below.
2) No protector. Edge is exposed but doesn't extend beyond the post.

Alien_Pop_Plasitc (resized).png

My search-fu is weak today... Can someone tell me what the dimensions of Alien are? Specifically, the width of the cab (not backbox) and the distance from the front of the backbox to the front of the machine?

Thanks!

You are a rockstar of the pinball world David!

I don't think you'll get a commercial operation (like CPR etc) doing it.

They'd have to have license rights from Fox, permission from Pinball Brothers, and then only a market of <140 machines.

Think this is one for the community.

I’d be surprised if we don’t see this coming from the community very soon, acrylic was just stupid to begin with.

It's too thick as well... I'll guess that was the compromise. No Idea how much more petg costs.

Does anybody know where the infamous "screw" is located?

"For me it was the screw. would not even calibrate correctly.
then turned the screw with a jewelers screwdriver and then it would extend but wouldn't retract (magnet too strong on field).
then turned the screw with a jewelers screwdriver and then it would retract, but wouldn't drop the ball.
Turned the screw clockwise more and now it drops the ball."

Xeno boards? Can't see it.

Didn’t realise you had finally gotten your Alien Ice I must have missed that, did you get your LE in the end or a SE?

Got the LE Jon, LOVE it, just needs a little Xeno tweak with the "screw", wherever it is!

It's a fantastic pin!!!

Congrates man, I know you where in for a long ass time. Maybe give Dave a shout he is a member on here although I forget his username without looking, he will surely know what to do.

Mine is just a rubber with a magnet in it. Just move the magnet closer to the end

Hi guys! Pin has landed in my basement!
Thanks so much Wayne! also everybody for there input especially Iceman44 sorry been bugging you so much. ! I was asking everyone there experiences before I purchased which really helped me to make my decision to purchase.
So things haven’t been perfect.
The game came in with backglass lcd cracked and not functioning. There is also 5 LEDs on the play field that are not working.
Wayne is on it.
Game plays great and alien head works fine. Pops are still being adjusted .
This must of took a beating! Wayne even doubled boxed the pin!!
I love the dark lighting it really adds to the theme. Shots are unique specially trying to hit everything in the upper play field area.
I’ll keep everyone posted.
Bart

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Are the non-functioning LEDs all on the same chain? You can identify this by going into Single Lamp Test and looking at the lamp identifier shown, which will be something like 2B6 ... the 2B is the chain identifier (board #2, chain B)... step through the test until you find the bad lights. If you find that all the bad lights are on the same chain, there's a decent chance that an LED came loose in its socket, which will also take out every downstream lamp on that chain, ala old Christmas tree lights. If this is the case, the suspect lamp is either the first bad one, or the immediately previous good one. You may be able to just reseat the errant lamp to fix the whole chain. (Unfortunately, this probably entails removing a rather large PCB, so use all due caution if you attempt this.)

Good luck!

Go to the two Xeno boards on the back board of the PF

I took off the one on the left as you are looking back to the front of the pin.

It was easier to get at the silver tiny screw that way.

I used a tiny Phillips head to turn the screw a couple of what felt like quarter clockwise turns

Works great now

Also look at the switch on that board that stays depressed against the back board to make sure it’s situated properly.

Anyone have info on the components used in the sensor switches?

Thanks ferret!! Will check
It out! Hopefully will be that simple.
You guys here are the best!

Hope you get these issues resolved ASAP and enjoy the game, everyone who’s continued to purchase an Alien deserves a fully working game to enjoy!

The lcd panels are available in the us about $200 if anyone wants the info

Hey guys so I think there are 8 LEDs not working they absolutely are in a row !!
What is the easiest way to test to see which led is causing the issue? If I unsolder the led on each end? How can I test led individually and easily ? Thanks so much ! The areas with tape are the non working LEDs

A76D6139-732E-418C-AEAF-8CFD9343D6A8 (resized).jpeg

DB09C461-5444-4824-A774-37A99A2F5983 (resized).jpeg

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You can pull the led light board off to remove it. You do not have to desolder anything. Follow the instructions described by Ferret above.

You determine which led board is bad when you remove it based on the lamp test. There is no surgery done to any individual board to test it.

It is likely only one led is bad, not all 8. And once you remove the bad ome, ther others will work fine.

If my understanding is correct, the statement above is not entirely correct. The LED's work in a chain. If one goes bad, every LED down the chain will be impacted. If you remove one, every LED down the chain will be off.

What I recommend is to isolate the bad LED using the single lamp test. Then, find the last LED in that chain. Swap the bad LED with the last one in the chain. That way, there will only be one LED out (the one at the end of the chain), as opposed to one bad one AND all the ones down the chain that are impacted as well.

I think it was already pointed out that if a LED does not light the previous LED could be the problem.

Reason: The way these work is that they listen to the stream coming in, take their data (first in the stream), remove this data from the stream and pass the rest on. If they don't pass anything on the rest of the LEDS don't change.

Thx guys I need to pull out all the LEDs that don’t work then test on a board that I know works for sure that way I can find the bad. The problem is I was trying not to mess with any other areas of the pin that work. I don’t want to damage anything. So I was Hoping that there was a way test the led without taking the whole board and keep reconnecting it into the game. I like your logic partyking !
Bart

Hey mcb. I think thereccan be more than one down the line that went bad. But I’m no expert that’s why I’m asking questions.

I had one bad led, and several inserts were affected. When I followed Ferrets instructions, by discovering and removing the bad led, all the previous missing led inserts, worked fine.

Maybe all of my unlit led's must've been upstream. But I know removing the bad one got several more to work, so I knew I had found the problem led.

Coincidentally, the original bad led would actually illuminate. But it was always on, even when it should've been out.

Has anybody had a chance to hook up an external sub? I got that polk audio 10" from Amazon for like 99.00. I think I just wire it to the leads on the existing woofer in the cabinet, + / -.. and let the power to the sub take care of the rest

Curious to see if you think the subwoofer adds much. As it is, I can feel the floor vibrate with the stock speakers on some of the low notes.

Yes the bass is already pretty good.. but I need more. I need to feel my pants vibrate.

I already hear the game behind me rattle. Really fantastic sound.

Before going to this trouble - make sure that the tongue gear is not slipping on the shaft. That's what mine was doing. You can replace the crappy plastic gear that is just glued to the shaft with a reliable metal one with proper set screw, etc - or just do what I did - disassemble the xeno mech so you can tilt it sideways, then drip some superglue on the gear/shaft to keep it from slipping.