(Topic ID: 208341)

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Club: Enter at own risk!

By Sarge

6 years ago


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  • 8,003 posts
  • 418 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by sleepygtr
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2320 Technical information Posted by Coyote (4 years ago)

Post #2361 New Magnet assistance device Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)

Post #2425 Machine board information. Posted by Coyote (4 years ago)

Post #2524 Mechanical upgrade Posted by Cyberrocker (4 years ago)

Post #3201 Display mod (to standard screen) Posted by Mr_Outlane (4 years ago)

Post #3385 ACNC Rubber Chart Posted by KingPinGames (4 years ago)

Post #3413 ACNC Light wiring diagram Posted by JustEverett (4 years ago)

Post #3440 ACNC Service Manual Posted by KingPinGames (4 years ago)

Post #3898 Ball launch fix Posted by rotordave (4 years ago)

Post #3944 Spooky ACNC repair videos - Guillotine, Frankenstein, Diverter. Posted by Ripshill (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider yoreland.
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#2282 4 years ago

Just got Mine #376. Straight away the ball gets stuck in the crypt lock. What's going on with this??? What is it supposed to be doing? How do I fix this?

Video of the problem below:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/in4EBepADqpefx6E7

Thanks!

#2287 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

It looks like your "backDropTarget" isn't dropping as it should, so the ball is trying to get tossed up into the scoop, and cannot make it, the game it trying over and over.
I don't yet have all the test menus memorized, but there may be a test where you can test the different coils, and verify it drops.
Edit: Go to the Drop Target Test mode, and run it. This should tell you is they're all working as expected.

Thanks, I'll look into that. Meanwhile Spooky Service told me to adjust the playfield pitch. That seemed to solve the problem so far...

#2385 4 years ago
Quoted from Yoreland:

Thanks, I'll look into that. Meanwhile Spooky Service told me to adjust the playfield pitch. That seemed to solve the problem so far...

Spooky Luke reproduced the issue in-house and did a youtube video of how to fix it. Simple fix:


Thanks Luke!

1 month later
#3164 4 years ago

I want to add a couple spotlights for mood. Anyone know where to tap into for power? Since it's all color changing g.i. I'm lost.

#3171 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If your spots are going to be constant on, then tie into the cabinet in the back with the 5v power supply. Otherwise, you will need to create a splitter to split the signal wires from one of the GI RGo connectors. Note that you can NOT connect an incandescent (*OR* LEDs that draw too much current!) up this way, you could fry your board.

Thanks! Yes, they'll be constant on. I want to add some lighting for ambiance.

4 weeks later
#3575 4 years ago

How do I know or does anyone know how many leds can be added to the 5v coin-door lamp circuit without having to add an additional power supply? I'm adding some colored spotlights but obviously don't want to overload the circuit? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Pictured: Skull mountain with and without a blue spotlight. I love it. Really makes the side art POP!

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#3578 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I think it was stated before, but I would get another small Mean Well power supply and use that instead. That way, it will also isolate your board's from potential issues by adding more LEDs..

Thanks. This is very helpful. Is there any way to know how many lights can be powered by, say, this:

MEAN WELL RS-50-5 AC to DC Power Supply Single Output, 5V 10 Amp 50W

What is the current draw of a typical 555 3 or 4 smd bulb? Am I overthinking this? lol sorry- I'm an electronics dunce.

#3579 4 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Totally agree! As we get more and more lighted mods...the power supplies that are factory can’t keep up (and shouldn’t be expected to). I put a mean well in my ACNC to run my lighted mods and it works perfectly. Totally separate power supply that can’t hurt the several thousand dollar pin.

Thanks, you raise a very good point! I'm afraid I might find a way to short a 5v circuit and fry a whole board.

#3586 4 years ago
Quoted from netman63129:

My pins are in a dark room. I too would like to add a couple of sunlight LED spotlights to highlight my custom painted castle. Apparently, the normal GI circuit cannot be used. Can someone confirm that the coin door is 5v? Where is the best location to tap into it?
Personally I don't think that this is the best solution since the GI in ACNC is part of the light-show and it would be better if the spotlights weren't on 100% of the time. Maybe some sort of GI y-cable adapter could be made? Suggestions?[quoted image]

Very cool.
I would be all over "some sort of GI y-cable adapter".
When will some smart person make something like this? Me want.

#3588 4 years ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

I am loving my ACNC-
But i hope Cold Ethyl is tweaked
Such a bitch to be forced to keep two balls alive (crypt multiball activates after second drop, Atleast on my code, when one drains-Ethyl and crypt are toast) Think another game will be made with sculps like this?

My second ball drops into the crypt during the monster mode and is ignored. Have to take the glass off and move a ball. Ball search takes forever to get to it. I'm running Version 1.0.7.0 (13-JUN-2019). Drives me nuts.

"Think another game will be made with sculps like this"
Hope so. This is what "World under glass" is all about. imo "world under glass" is what pinball is all about.

#3601 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Does your switch above the drop off point register?

Just checked. Looks like what I took for it registering was the opto in the crypt directly below. So the answer is no- it's not registering. Just great. I can't figure out how to remove the castle wall scuplt that covers the switch in order to check it.

2 weeks later
12
#3948 4 years ago

In process of adding some graveyard scenery. Blue-light gives a nice blacklight effect. Still need to soften and hide edges with vegetation and install mood lighting. All is removable.

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2 months later
#4501 3 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

Since the latest release, having an issue with the crypt lock. Start game, Crypt lock goes up/down .. can even score 2.5 million before launching the first ball. Anyone else had this ‘Spooky’ behavior.

Mine was doing that when I first got it. Had to pull on the drop target bracket underside to get it to align properly with respect to the opto behind it.
I know this is probably a dumb question, but I haven't really stayed up on these things... Is that Pinstadium lighting in your game? It's awesome.

1 year later
#6951 2 years ago

Does anyone have a picture of the type of screw that goes into the post to secure the castle arch? At some point it fell off and I can't find it anywhere. Trying to match it as best as possible.

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#6953 2 years ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

I just look at mine and it is just a rounded philips like the one directly across from it in you pic. When I checked mine it is loose so I would put a lock washer on it or a little blue lock tight.

Thank you!

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