(Topic ID: 208341)

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Club: Enter at own risk!

By Sarge

6 years ago


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  • 8,004 posts
  • 418 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by tbutler6
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2320 Technical information Posted by Coyote (4 years ago)

Post #2361 New Magnet assistance device Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)

Post #2425 Machine board information. Posted by Coyote (4 years ago)

Post #2524 Mechanical upgrade Posted by Cyberrocker (4 years ago)

Post #3201 Display mod (to standard screen) Posted by Mr_Outlane (4 years ago)

Post #3385 ACNC Rubber Chart Posted by KingPinGames (4 years ago)

Post #3413 ACNC Light wiring diagram Posted by JustEverett (4 years ago)

Post #3440 ACNC Service Manual Posted by KingPinGames (4 years ago)

Post #3898 Ball launch fix Posted by rotordave (4 years ago)

Post #3944 Spooky ACNC repair videos - Guillotine, Frankenstein, Diverter. Posted by Ripshill (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mjalexan.
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#180 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Hey Mr. That's 2 weeks without even a mention of anything. Why the complete silence?

I can't wait to get mine. Mostly to supply any picture or video you would like.

3 weeks later
#282 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

My POTC has some dimpling (had it since Nov) but not like this.
Disappointed to hear that it will be months away. It would be appreciated if we could get 'cost' on a spare playfield.
Cliffies or mylar is a requirement should you want this pristine.

Pics?

#298 5 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

This fell onto my playfield during a game. Any ideas where it came from? Looks like it broke off of something, but can't locate it.
[quoted image]

Upper PF, wire form to the right of the drop target? Looks like the fins might have got squeezed a bit much?
Screen Shot 2019-04-14 at 3.24.40 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-04-14 at 3.24.40 PM (resized).png

#304 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Finally made the time to look into my plunger coil alignment issue. I had sent an email in last week but hadn't heard back so maybe this will help a few others as I expect that, based on my findings, it can't just be our pin.
I pulled the apron out, which was (and remains) very tight and found a bit of wear and a crack in the wood rail . Looking past that and at the plunger coil bracket, I could see right away what the problem was, poor alignment due to the bracket sitting on top of the t-nuts (for the PF hanger bracket) which were not counter sunk into the playfield. This is definitely a QC concern as you can see that the self tapping screws for the coil bracket were actually screwed into the metal of each t-nut. I can't see that being easy to do especially while holding the bracket in place, likely by hand(?). I did what I can and have provided plenty of pics in hopes to help others.
I essentially traced around each t-nut with a small exacto knife to cut into the clear and first layer of ply and then carefully used a 1/2" drill bit to clear out a bit of wood. I had to trim away with the exacto knife as the 1/2" bit is a bit small but was all that I had. Ideally you would have a forstner bit of the correct size. That would clear the hole properly (flat bottom instead of tapered, using a regular bit). The head of the t-nut is not very thick so it shouldn't be too much work. When I was where I wanted, I used pipe wrench pliers to press the t-nut down into the hole (using the PF hanger bracket on the bottom side to prevent damaging the bottom of the PF). I thought that I had it but noticed that the pair of bolts which hold the hanger bracket in, from the bottom, are too long and stick out of the top of the t-nut. I did not notice this in the first pictures showing the nuts on top of the PF. I used two small washers on each bolt, along with the original lock washer and this allowed the coil bracket to sit properly on the PF.
You will see that the coil bracket itself was originally bent a couple of ways to try to compensate for how it was mounted on the nuts so I still have a bit a adjustment to get things right (left to right) but at least the coil is now sitting more in the middle of the ball (up and down). Autoplunges almost always make it smoothly around now but manual ones sometimes send the ball rattling up near the end of the metal plunger lane/ramp (left to right adjustment I suppose). I may have to fill in the self tapping screw holes and make new ones if I need to find more adjustment now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Well that’s a bummer! I think I’d redrill holes/slots in the coil bracket that could utilize the T-nuts. Get longer screws for the hangers and nuts for the bracket. Rather screw up a $1.05 bracket than a pf.

#307 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

It sounds like you would still need to counter sink the t-nuts, or (if this is what you mean), just toss the t-nuts and use a nylon lock nut with a longer bolt through the coil and hanger brackets. If you keep the t-nuts, there is metal both on top and bottom that sits on/over it.
You are right of course, there are solutions and I am with you, best to just mount this without touching the PF. I would say that t-nuts are typically flush mounted, just seems like a brute force method here, I hope that this one was an exception. In the end, my countersink looks 'good' and it is under the coil bracket. Just leaves me no play for adjustment of the coil unless I elongate the two coil bracket holes.

Yeah that’s what I was getting at. Drill, cut, hack the metal in case you have a woops on the playfield. Glad you didn’t! Your fix looks good. Thanks for the pf pictures too. Glad it wasn’t a lunar surface everywhere like some other games exhibit. Looking over my RZ I can count the dimples on one hand.

4 weeks later
#558 4 years ago

#95 ready for pickup! Too bad the Indy 500 is coming up, great things continue to come in pairs.

#598 4 years ago

this game is so much fun! I'm a mediocre player at best and the shots are fine after a few games. My wife is over 100MM and I'm close after 55 games between the two of us in 24 hours. Big ups to the Spooky team

2 weeks later
#653 4 years ago

8 words:

take the backox off, move in parts, reassemble

like i had to do....damn narrow doors!

#661 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhacker71:

Question for people with shakers. Are you getting any shaking effect? When I go into test mode my counterbalance weights will just rotate once slowly. I don’t seem to have any action from it at all during gameplay. Am I the only one, or is this just a code thing. Doesn’t seem like it’s getting enough power. Sometimes it won’t even respond at all in test mode.

Mine works normally. Plugged in to the right spot, not the knocker plug?

#675 4 years ago
Quoted from flashburn:

I have an issue, and I have a feature request.
The request is to make the ball search better. It seems like it only fires off a couple coils and that's it, until the third attempt, then it tries the drop target. It should also trigger Frankenstein, and also the upper drop target.
My issue is that after locking the first ball in the lab, and then locking the second ball, it just ejects a single ball. I think it should be starting Frankenstein multiball? The other ball sits in the left side of the castle, and never ejects. Once draining the ball, it just sits there, as if it thinks there's another ball in play. Only solution is to reset the game. Maybe it's a faulty switch, but I don't have a clue, since it registers the original ball lock and starts Frankenstein mode correctly.

+1, seen the same thing a couple times.

#706 4 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

My flipper coils are now buzzing when holding them. The left one is louder and stronger sound than the right one. Could this be EOS gap?

yeah, go adjust it and report back

1 week later
#764 4 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Is "School's Out" in this game? There's tons of references to it, call outs, menu options, but I haven't heard the song yet. Super disappointed if it's not. My wife and I are teachers and were singing this the last week of work.

No

#780 4 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I switched to the Pattern 1 or whatever and it's working for me.

Same here. Original used to work 90% or better then went to 0% after update. Pattern 1 has worked so far.

If you start a co-op game, then hold start to reset, it stays in co-op mode.

1 month later
10
#1153 4 years ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

I know it’s not a big deal, but his first response was to the latch missing. After I found the screw but no latch, I mentioned that the screw was stripped beyond belief, a new comment. Then he hit me with “One more time” and I found it to be snarky and unnecessary.

For fuck’s sake, get a life. Even better, a new hobby.

1 month later
#1664 4 years ago
Quoted from GuiitarMan:

The sound is amazing...but I feel like there could be options lower than 1. I can't go over 2 without rattling the glass and I don't see why anyone would go over 10 (goes to 19) but I am in a home environment so that could be the difference there.

turn down the analog volume on the amp in the cabinet. that will move your digital range lower and better for the home

#1672 4 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Yes.[quoted image]

I've been curious about this.... If i was to box in the sub on ACNC and put port holes through the bottom board of the cabinet, would that significantly decrease the glass rattle? The foam tape seems like a bandaid and i'd rather not have a remote mounted sub. The TNA on location nearby is always loud and i've never noticed rattles, i'd love to duplicate that on ACNC and RZ.

1 month later
#1927 4 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Looking forward to seeing what Spooky comes up with. Also, that rectangular recess in the coin door needs a high quality decal to make it pop. Maybe Alice Cooper’s eyes, creepy crawlies or some other cool subject matter. What color LED flipper buttons are you guys installing? I’m thinking translucent purple.

Agreed, RZ came with one.

2 months later
#3246 4 years ago
53FA7EBE-2555-41BF-9A35-1297A1D7EC4A (resized).jpeg53FA7EBE-2555-41BF-9A35-1297A1D7EC4A (resized).jpeg
#3254 4 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

My wife and I played ACNC with Bowen at Pintastic. Loved the game, but it turned off on us during gameplay, and Bowen said "yeah... it does that every so often". Huge turn off. Didn't end up buying it.
LOVED the game... still kind of want one.
-- (1) Do you guys have that issue still?
-- (2) What about the ball getting lost in the back from time to time?
-- (3) Would anyone in the northeast be willing to trade their ACNC for a MBrSE?
Just curious, all talk atm.

1. Hasn’t been a code update since June so.....yeah
2. Never happened to me

1 month later
#4024 4 years ago

We picked up a roadshow a couple weeks ago. It’s kinda like playing putt putt after hacking in the rough all day, you suddenly feel like a pro!

2 months later
#4467 3 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

So for those of you with ball save magnet issues with the ball grabbing, hovering, then draining like mine was, here is the definitive fix:
Remove the resistor that is inline with the magnet! After doing this all patterns work for me and throw the ball differently (I have the resistor setting turned on). Awesome effect now with the ball launching back up into play, I love it!

Thanks a lot to Spooky support!
I had tried all of the following with no success before reaching out to them:
- New carbon steel balls (to ensure they were not magnetized)
- Added the pinball life magnet core plastic
- Ensured 7 degree playfield pitch
- Ensured latest code (V1.1.0.0 as of this posting)
- Checked all pattern/resistor settings combinations

Thanks for posting this! My magnet has been mostly worthless, same setup as yours. Any idea why the resistor was there in the first place? On the to do list for tomorrow.

#4468 3 years ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

Thanks for posting this! My magnet has been mostly worthless, same setup as yours. Any idea why the resistor was there in the first place? On the to do list for tomorrow.

Wow, huge difference! No more flaccid magnet saves.

#4481 3 years ago
Quoted from superhawk2300:

WOW. That is great. Now what about us with problems who don't have the resistors?

Assuming you've gone through the different mag/resistor settings and added the plastic spacer.....contact [email protected]

#4512 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

They did add the staged flipper to rick and morty so they are improving going forward but it would be nice if we could add it into ACNC.
The ramp made switch is another interesting one that I hadn't thought about. I always thought the Frank lock would be improved if the locked ball rested on the switch keeping it closed

Does R&M have an EOS in the lower flippers? Or do they have some other method for staging?

#4516 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Staging needs a secondary switch on the flipper button. No EOS needed

Unless it’s early Bally style that uses a secondary eos as the “flipper” switch instead of a secondary flipper button switch.

#4518 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That wouldn't be stageable then?

ohh duhh, you're right

2 months later
#4959 3 years ago
Quoted from gambit3113:

My magnet save has suddenly and completely stopped grabbing the ball from the left outlane. Is there supposed to be something down by the trough that diverts the ball up toward the magnet on that side? Because as it is it just rolls down the outlane and the magnet doesn’t affect it at all on that side any more. Am I missing something here?

[quoted image]

Yeah there should be a foam pad on either side of the trough to bump the ball up prior to going down the hole

2 months later
#5198 3 years ago

Anyone develop a super annoying metal-to-metal clank when using the right flipper? It was progressively getting worse and I tracked it down to the upper flipper. After reseating the coil stop, replacing sleeve and gapping the shaft, no change. Turning upper flipper power down got rid of the noise but it was too weak to make the frank lock. I ended up filling the cavity in the aluminum bat with foam tape. Sound is gone with the flipper at high power. Not sure why it developed over time. My only guess is the joint between shaft and bat is coming loose? Maybe it’s just the cavity providing a good echo chamber.

B9C2157E-E3C9-459D-A379-C0507A241F69 (resized).jpegB9C2157E-E3C9-459D-A379-C0507A241F69 (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#5279 3 years ago
Quoted from Pizzaman13:

Every time I consider buying ACNC I open up to this forum and get scared off by all the technical issues. I am the kind of collector that just wants to play...Having to consistently mess with electronics is not my forte. Sure, I get it, owning a pinball machine always requires some attention but with ACNC seems to be a consistent problem for most owners.
Is this an accurate portrayal? I keep trying to talk myself into buying but concerned.

Slightly more than 4 hours away but mine has been fine other than normal wear and it's for sale!

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