(Topic ID: 208341)

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Club: Enter at own risk!

By Sarge

6 years ago


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  • 7,999 posts
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  • Latest reply 8 days ago by pinballM
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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2320 Technical information Posted by Coyote (4 years ago)

Post #2361 New Magnet assistance device Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)

Post #2425 Machine board information. Posted by Coyote (4 years ago)

Post #2524 Mechanical upgrade Posted by Cyberrocker (4 years ago)

Post #3201 Display mod (to standard screen) Posted by Mr_Outlane (4 years ago)

Post #3385 ACNC Rubber Chart Posted by KingPinGames (4 years ago)

Post #3413 ACNC Light wiring diagram Posted by JustEverett (4 years ago)

Post #3440 ACNC Service Manual Posted by KingPinGames (4 years ago)

Post #3898 Ball launch fix Posted by rotordave (4 years ago)

Post #3944 Spooky ACNC repair videos - Guillotine, Frankenstein, Diverter. Posted by Ripshill (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Elcochino6.
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#6061 3 years ago

Anybody ever have issues with the left scoop intermittently firing when no ball is present and then other times not firing when a ball is present.

I have cleaned and aligned the scoop optos, tried reseating all connections to the boards associated with the optos, and shored up all my grounding braid points in the cabinet just in case.

The issue started happening very infrequently at first but now makes the game unplayable. It also happens more frequently the longer the machine is on, and now is even popping in attract mode!

My only other thought is it is being triggered by light bleed/shadowing under the playfield as nearby LEDs flash?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

#6070 3 years ago
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:

Yes! I had the exact same issue. There’s a connection not fully connected. When I had this issue spooky had me check this connector .
[quoted image]

Thanks for the suggestion.

I got motivated last night and reflowed the solder to the Optos and re-sat all idc connectors under the playfield. I also removed the VUK in the scoop and cleaned everything. Played a few games and no misfires so far.

#6071 3 years ago

Have you guys found that a VERY fast/clean shot around the right loop will trigger combos or skill shots but not advance a room as it should?

I also have had some intermittent issues with the cold ethyl/upper crypt switch not detecting balls entering the top and then having to ball search and screwing all the game logic up until a hard reset. I adjusted the switch multiple times, but the problem is really random. I wanted to see if others have an issue as well.

I was considering switching to an opto pair in for top entry into the crypt instead of the switch? Has anyone made that conversion?

#6072 3 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Ok I have very little luck with my mag save,I have the gold resistor,I tryed the pinballlife disk and that made it worse and I have tryed all settings ,should I can I remove the resistor?any suggestions!

Mine is terrible the same way as yours and I have the gold resistor. Works like 20% of the time. Let me know if you find an alternate fix or setting that functions properly.

2 years later
#7853 11 months ago

Good evening ladies and gents… I’m having a nightmare of a time with my crypt drop opto staying stuck open/not connecting the emitter and receiver. I have replaced the optos, replaced wires and connectors, metered the connections and used known working opto pairs and replaced the opto power board with a known working board. I resat all communication connectors at the multimorphic boards and in the back box.

I’m getting consistent 10v on the receiver and 1.55v on the transmitter side. I have resat all connectors on the multimorphic sw-16 board associated with the opto switch in question and also replaced the one that controls the drop opto with a known working board. I’m just at loss for other places to look to troubleshoot it. I have even gone as far as running a new harness with new optos to both sides externally and I cannot get the opto to show as making a connection.

Where else can I look?

Thanks!

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#7856 11 months ago

I tried switching the boards, the problem did not travel with the board. In measuring voltage, I found my receiver was throwing a very high number so I ran new black and white wires all the way back to the ground and the power pin on the receiver. Externally the wires looked just fine and all switch connections were solid in the daisy chain. I was able to get the optos working and installed after running the new wires. I’m guessing it was an internal damaged wire on the receiver side for anyone with a similar gremlin in their machine!

Quoted from rotordave:

Under the PF (RHS, about the middle) there are 2 green switch boards.
Presuming you have no other switch errors, Try swapping those two switch boards over.
Don’t forget to change the dip switches so they are correct for the Position you’re moving them to.
Not uncommon for them to go bad and lose a switch.
If you swap boards - and one is faulty - the switch error will move to a different switch.
Luckily they are cheap at PBL.
https://www.pinballlife.com/multimorphic-sw-16-v2.html
Good luck!
rd

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