(Topic ID: 208341)

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Club: Enter at own risk!

By Sarge

4 years ago


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There are 7,359 posts in this topic. You are on page 94 of 148.
#4651 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

75% isn't too bad, sadly. The issue with the magnet is two-fold:
1. First, and foremost, there's no switch to tell the game when the ball is *off* the core, so the game is just using a set timer delay to pulse the magnet. If for some reason the ball does not roll down enough when that pulse hits, the ball won't be thrown.
2. The other issue is due to metal-on-metal friction, which is why the plastic disk for the magnet core helps - it prevents this friction, helping the ball start to roll down some.

where do we find this palstic disk? Appreciate the help.

#4652 2 years ago
Quoted from wcbrandes:

where do we find this palstic disk? Appreciate the help.

https://www.pinballlife.com/acnc-magnet-core-plastic

It worked better on previous code updates.

#4653 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Your MPU is pretty much dead, sadly. Something happened to the RAM disk in the CPU, and it can't boot. Spooky can send you a new CPU, or a file to reflash your CPU. If they CAN'T (dont ever see that happening), let me know.

Spoke to Charlie and David today at Spooky. They are going to send me a new CPU. How did you know this was the issue Coyote? Have you seen or heard of this issue before? Has anybody else in here ever had this problem? The tech support and overall customer service at Spooky has been nothing short of fantastic. I’m just sad my game will be out of commission for a few days, especially since the new code just dropped!

#4654 2 years ago

I love this Alice Fly smashing stuff!

Right up there with Stretch Points in the dungeon.

Keep it comin’, Spooky.

#4655 2 years ago
Quoted from chill:

I love this Alice Fly smashing stuff!
Right up there with Stretch Points in the dungeon.
Keep it comin’, Spooky.

I wish the timer was a smidge longer on the fly. But am also loving the hell out of details like this and stretch points making each room a mini mode. Would be awesome if a bigger set of the non orbit shots did something unique in each room. So even if you suck like me there’s almost always something cool happening.

#4656 2 years ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

I wish the timer was a smidge longer on the fly. But am also loving the hell out of details like this and stretch points making each room a mini mode. Would be awesome if a bigger set of the non orbit shots did something unique in each room. So even if you suck like me there’s almost always something cool happening.

+1 on longer timer.
They need to add a guillotine shot for something in the Lab and something in the Kitchen at least. That would add a lot right there.

#4657 2 years ago

I guess I don’t understand why the difficulty settings were changed. The ability to set the game up to my desired difficulty was appealing, even if it kicked my ass around sometimes.

I streamed it for an hour or so the other day and had a lot of fun. I even pointed out even with the current difficulty changes I probably still won’t get to B$B haha

#4658 2 years ago
Quoted from scruffypinball:

I guess I don’t understand why the difficulty settings were changed. The ability to set the game up to my desired difficulty was appealing, even if it kicked my ass around sometimes.
I streamed it for an hour or so the other day and had a lot of fun. I even pointed out even with the current difficulty changes I probably still won’t get to B$B haha

I think the progressive is a good option to have, but I do think it should be an option. It's a great way to give players who are unfamiliar with the game access to actually playing it. I can't tell you how many times people who have only played my Alice a handful of times step up and were frustrated (I was on the middle of the road difficulty), and just could never access a monster. I think Spooky is doing a good job giving options of how to advance to the rooms and start the monsters, but it's not the typical *just hit this scoop* to start a mode that lots of games have. This game just takes some getting use to, but people who aren't easily discouraged can power through the somewhat painful learning process and really start to have a lot of fun.

#4659 2 years ago

I downloaded the new code, no issues and appeared to be correct size. Put the USB drive into an open slot, booted, screen ended with the 'remove USB - power cycle' request, which I did. When I restarted it sat on the first screen with some basic text for perhaps 5 minutes, then went blank, acted like something was going to happen, and now it's been a blank screen for easily 20 - 25 minutes. Thoughts?? I'm about ready to power-cycle and see what does or doesn't work.

#4660 2 years ago
Quoted from TakingupSpace:

I downloaded the new code, no issues and appeared to be correct size. Put the USB drive into an open slot, booted, screen ended with the 'remove USB - power cycle' request, which I did. When I restarted it sat on the first screen with some basic text for perhaps 5 minutes, then went blank, acted like something was going to happen, and now it's been a blank screen for easily 20 - 25 minutes. Thoughts?? I'm about ready to power-cycle and see what does or doesn't work.

Sounds like it locked up.
I would power cycle it.

#4661 2 years ago
Quoted from TakingupSpace:

I downloaded the new code, no issues and appeared to be correct size. Put the USB drive into an open slot, booted, screen ended with the 'remove USB - power cycle' request, which I did. When I restarted it sat on the first screen with some basic text for perhaps 5 minutes, then went blank, acted like something was going to happen, and now it's been a blank screen for easily 20 - 25 minutes. Thoughts?? I'm about ready to power-cycle and see what does or doesn't work.

Just turn the game off and on again.

IMPORTANT WHEN UPDATING!!
1. Turn the game on FIRST!
2. In Attract mode, insert the USB key!
3. The game will update itself.
4. When it says to reboot, turn the game off.
5. Wait a good 5 seconds, and turn the game on.
6. There is NO step number 6.

If you power the game up with the key installed, you will have to reboot TWICE.

#4662 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Just turn the game off and on again.
IMPORTANT WHEN UPDATING!!
1. Turn the game on FIRST!
2. In Attract mode, insert the USB key!

Oh, balls. Maybe this is why I got some glitches in my update, I had the USB stick in when powering on. I was going to re-run it tonight anyway, now I suppose I'll try the right way.

#4663 2 years ago

I've always updated mine by turning it off, inserting the stick, then booting it, without issue

#4664 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I've always updated mine by turning it off, inserting the stick, then booting it, without issue

It may work, or it may leave the user with a black screen, like above. By doing it with the power on, the lock-up black-screen won't occur.

12
#4665 2 years ago

I’m in the club
E00D18BD-2B8C-4BE9-BDE1-B204DDE5E5DA (resized).jpeg

#4666 2 years ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

I’m in the club
[quoted image]

Welcome! Now say goodbye to your friends and family because this game is like crack.

#4667 2 years ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

Well damn, I didn't realize the magneato save was supposed to throw the ball back onto the play field. It happened a couple times very early on but never again, so I thought it was a fluke! I checked and my machine does not appear to have resistors near the magnets, like in the video you linked.
I don't mind reaching out to Spooky support, but if you or anybody else has specific tips to check out, I'm all ears! (New balls, 7deg play field pitch, latest code, checked all pattern settings...not sure about resistor settings, is that a separate setting? Also not sure about the magnet core plastic?)

I can say with 100% certainty that for me the solution for my magnet was to 'cut out' the in-line resistor as per Spooky and I found that for the front magnet you don't even have to take off the glass and pull up the PF.

Open the coin door, locate the resistor near the front left of the underside of the PF and cut the Orange/Purple wire from both sides of the resistor. As these two wire ends need to be reconnected, I cut them back to shorten the overall length. Strip both ends of the wires slip on a short piece of heat shrink tubing, twist the exposed wire together, solder and slide the heat shrink over and heat it up. Turn the game on and adjust in the settings if necessary. I've left mine set to Resistor ON (seems to be suggested) and ORIGINAL pattern. The ball is held and now thrown well up an into the playfield. I haven't tried the other patterns but will try just to see if they change the pattern. Original for me goes straight up, even into the scoop (left of the monster mode targets).

Next time I have the playfield raised I will cut out the rear magnet resistor.

Here are some pics, if that helps.

IMG_20200516_1026156 (resized).jpgIMG_20200516_1027105 (resized).jpg
#4668 2 years ago
Quoted from wcbrandes:

where do we find this palstic disk? Appreciate the help.

If you haven't cut out the resistor please see my post above. I ordered the small PETG disc from Pinball life and hadn't installed it yet. Literally two days ago I cut out the resistor and that solved my problem. Hope that it does for you as well.

#4669 2 years ago

Update is very impressive... light show, etc, are vastly better. Looking forward to digging in a bit further and seeing what else is there.

#4670 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Literally two days ago I cut out the resistor and that solved my problem. Hope that it does for you as well.

Why is the resistor there?

#4671 2 years ago
Quoted from Silkenone:

Why is the resistor there?

To resist.
I've asked this before and never got a good answer. But later machine eliminated it anyway.

#4672 2 years ago

Downloaded update last night and got some time with it. Doesnt look like any of the bugs were fixed from last update yet but addition of weapons is a nice touch. Some of the weapons blend in with the rooms, it would be nice if they were glowing or something similar to the doors on the skill shot.

For collecting weapons if you have ball 1 locked in Frank the vampire target is already flashing white to light lock 2. Maybe a different color like yellow for collection. Would like to see the weapons get moved around to different collection points throughout the game as well.

Alice bug is great as well. White text box telling you where to find him is nice. But game doesnt help you know which orbit to shoot unless you memorize the room layout.

#4673 2 years ago

My game must be a later build doesn’t have the resistor but does have the PETG protector. I’ve tried turning the resistor off and on in the menu. Still only works about 30% of the time. So is the PETG protector my problem now or is 30% average what everyone else living with.

#4674 2 years ago

Have you tried all of the various patterns? Mine, with the disc and setting 2 works 100% of the time. Several saves have almost made their way up the left ramp.

#4675 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Have you tried all of the various patterns? Mine, with the disc and setting 2 works 100% of the time. Several saves have almost made their way up the left ramp.

Maybe I’m missing something? What are you setting to 2?

#4676 2 years ago

I think I found it thanks for you help

image (resized).jpg
#4677 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Have you tried all of the various patterns? Mine, with the disc and setting 2 works 100% of the time. Several saves have almost made their way up the left ramp.

That was it and pattern 2 works the best for me as well. Thanks this game keeps getting better and better

#4678 2 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Maybe a different color like yellow for collection.

I was thinking it'd make more sense for the frank light to be blue, to match the other frank inserts, and leave the item white

#4679 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I've always updated mine by turning it off, inserting the stick, then booting it, without issue

This is what I've done and worked perfectly for me on this upgrade as well.

#4680 2 years ago

Had my first reboot ever today. Running the new code, so I figured I would share. I loaded up a 4 player co-op mode just to spend some more time learning the code (also maybe get to BDB).

All 4 ball ones played normally, then I launched player 1 ball 2, hit the crypt lock skill shot, the ball locked. Then black. I’m not sure if it helps Spooky and Fawzma, but I figured it can’t hurt in helping them refine the code.

#4681 2 years ago

Has anyone turned on music and sounds on in attract mode? What plays? I have the new code and never tried it with the old code so I don't know if its a code issue or what to expect. I was just curious to hear it. Thanks!

#4682 2 years ago
Quoted from scottieIA:

Has anyone turned on music and sounds on in attract mode? What plays? I have the new code and never tried it with the old code so I don't know if its a code issue or what to expect. I was just curious to hear it. Thanks!

Attract Music = Nothing.
Attract Sounds = Will play a random Alice Soundbyte if you hit a flipper button.

#4683 2 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Anybody buy the plug and play fan that vireland made?
I'm thinking about getting it. Fan noise is a big complaint of mine on my ACNC.
Part: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/03720-spooky-multimorphic-plug-n-play-quiet-fan-kit
Thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans
EDIT: I bought it. Price and upside is too good to pass up. I also need something to do. I'm a little weary of opening up the power supply though, I've never done that. Yes I'll unplug and let sit & turn on the game to get the residual power used up before I open it. I still want to know if anyone has installed it yet and what complications I may encounter?

Follow up on this post.

If you have an ACNC with a loud annoying fan and you would gladly spend $17 and about 1 hour of your time, you can rectify this forever. This product is worth it's weight in gold. Directions are clear and concise, complete with pictures. I'm above "novice" level of repair and I was able to do everything without an issue.

Great product, super happy. PinMonk is a genius.

#4684 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

To resist.
I've asked this before and never got a good answer. But later machine eliminated it anyway.

Yes, I have a machine with no resistors. And I go through periods where I have trouble with the magnet too, so while it seems to help, I don't know if its going to solve your problems forever. (I was disappointed, with wire cutters in hand, when I discovered my machine did not have one to by-pass).

#4685 2 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Follow up on this post.
If you have an ACNC with a loud annoying fan and you would gladly spend $17 and about 1 hour of your time, you can rectify this forever. This product is worth it's weight in gold. Directions are clear and concise, complete with pictures. I'm above "novice" level of repair and I was able to do everything without an issue.
Great product, super happy. vireland is a genius.

Thanks for the recommendation.

I do want to point out that anyone can still DIY this (that's what the thread about fan replacements started as) with a stock Sunon fan to save a few bucks, but they'll have to cut/solder/heatshrink to get the wire to the proper length with the proper connector for the SE-600-48 power supply. What I'm primarily selling is all-in-one convenience with the right fan and correct wire length and connector with detailed instructions on how to do the swap to make it a very easy job with a custom install factory look.

#4686 2 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Follow up on this post.
If you have an ACNC with a loud annoying fan and you would gladly spend $17 and about 1 hour of your time, you can rectify this forever. This product is worth it's weight in gold. Directions are clear and concise, complete with pictures. I'm above "novice" level of repair and I was able to do everything without an issue.
Great product, super happy. vireland is a genius.

I will second this. Due to the acoustics of my house and where my games are, the fan noise on my ACNC was almost unbearable. You could hear it throughout the house. I replaced the fan with vireland's kit, and the game is silent now. I cannot convey enough what a huge difference the fan swap made. This will be the first thing I do when my R&M finally gets made somewhere down the road.

#4687 2 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I will second this. Due to the acoustics of my house and where my games are, the fan noise on my ACNC was almost unbearable. You could hear it throughout the house. I replaced the fan with vireland's kit, and the game is silent now. I cannot convey enough what a huge difference the fan swap made. This will be the first thing I do when my R&M finally gets made somewhere down the road.

I never even hear mine. And I can hear the fan ramp up and down on my Deadpool. So some must be noisier than others.

#4688 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I never even hear mine. And I can hear the fan ramp up and down on my Deadpool. So some must be noisier than others.

Have you checked that your fan is ON? Maybe your power supply fan is broken. The dB level of the Spike 500W and the Spooky 600W power supplies are almost the same, but the spooky one is always on. If you can hear one, you should be able to hear the other.

If you check and the fan is working (you can feel airflow coming out of the bottom vent with the power on), then my other thought is did you buy it used? If so, maybe the prior owner modded it with a quieter fan.

#4689 2 years ago

So installed a new CPU board today courtesy of spooky, now having issues regarding my ball diverter on the left ramp. Ball one locks but the diverter doesn’t move to allow the ramp to flow to the upper playfield after. Any ideas as to if this needs and adjustment or how I can test it? Thanks guys!!

#4690 2 years ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

So installed a new CPU board today courtesy of spooky, now having issues regarding my ball diverter on the left ramp. Ball one locks but the diverter doesn’t move to allow the ramp to flow to the upper playfield after. Any ideas as to if this needs and adjustment or how I can test it? Thanks guys!!

#4691 2 years ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

So installed a new CPU board today courtesy of spooky, now having issues regarding my ball diverter on the left ramp. Ball one locks but the diverter doesn’t move to allow the ramp to flow to the upper playfield after. Any ideas as to if this needs and adjustment or how I can test it? Thanks guys!!

Check that your upper drop is working properly.

#4692 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Have you checked that your fan is ON? Maybe your power supply fan is broken. The dB level of the Spike 500W and the Spooky 600W power supplies are almost the same, but the spooky one is always on. If you can hear one, you should be able to hear the other.
If you check and the fan is working (you can feel airflow coming out of the bottom vent with the power on), then my other thought is did you buy it used? If so, maybe the prior owner modded it with a quieter fan.

OK, there is no bottom vent on ACNC, but I can hear it if I put my ear to the cabinet or towards rear. It is working, but I can't hear it enough to even care. I know my hearing is terrible, but still can't believe it's that bad. Oh well. It's the one benefit to being hearing impaired.

#4693 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

OK, there is no bottom vent on ACNC, but I can hear it if I put my ear to the cabinet or towards rear. It is working, but I can't hear it enough to even care. I know my hearing is terrible, but still can't believe it's that bad. Oh well.

No, I mean the bottom vent of the power supply INSIDE the bottom of the cabinet. You have to lift the playfield to access it.

#4694 2 years ago

When I’m in the servo settings, I’m not hearing any noise or seeing any movement.....

#4695 2 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

So for those of you with ball save magnet issues with the ball grabbing, hovering, then draining like mine was, here is the definitive fix:
Remove the resistor that is inline with the magnet! After doing this all patterns work for me and throw the ball differently (I have the resistor setting turned on). Awesome effect now with the ball launching back up into play, I love it!

Do both resistors need to be removed? I have both and pulled out the ball save magnet resistor so far....
EDIT I went ahead and removed the other one as well per the video.... Just wondering if people have had marked improvement and what does the resistor closer to the backglass control?

#4696 2 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Do both resistors need to be removed? I have both and pulled out the ball save magnet so far....

I only removed the ball save magnet resistor. I had it on original pattern however after the latest code update it’s not working as well as it did prior. Might need to try some other patterns.

#4697 2 years ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

When I’m in the servo settings, I’m not hearing any noise or seeing any movement.....

The servo should move the divertor. If it doesn't it may be :
1. Servo has burned out - simple to remove and check - it will have a black mark on the casing
2. Servo has become disconnected - check leads are still plugged in under playfield and onto servo board
3. Servo fuse has blown - test other servos ( frank and chop) to make sure they move.

#4698 2 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

The servo should move the divertor. If it doesn't it may be :
1. Servo has burned out - simple to remove and check - it will have a black mark on the casing
2. Servo has become disconnected - check leads are still plugged in under playfield and onto servo board
3. Servo fuse has blown - test other servos ( frank and chop) to make sure they move.

Thank you for the info. I traced the wires, reseated all, still nothing. The frank and chop servos both work. I haven’t removed the servo yet but I would imagine that has the be the issue? Could it be anything else at this point?

#4699 2 years ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

Thank you for the info. I traced the wires, reseated all, still nothing. The frank and chop servos both work. I haven’t removed the servo yet but I would imagine that has the be the issue? Could it be anything else at this point?

Mine went bad after a couple weeks. Contact Spooky. They'll send you a new servo. It's easy to replace. But mine blew the fuse. Maybe yours just stopped working without shorting out.

#4700 2 years ago

Surprised more people aren’t speaking up and discussing how well this recent code update has bumped gameplay?? This is what owners have been waiting for, IMO.

The integration of lights and sounds are so much better... the game is feeling more like a smooth and unified experience... it’s professional feeling is coming together in a nice way.

They’ve pushed the ball further up the hill. It’s at a really. I’ve spot. Hope they continue to push it!

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