Elizabethtown, KY
Quoted from bkerins:When a monster mode starts, there is a ball saver. This setting determines whether the ball saver will stay on for its full time, or will shut off after the first drain is returned.
Thank you!
(Topic ID: 208341)
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Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle
Spooky Pinball, 2017
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Cold Ethyl drop; hard to see the dimpling and might be minor for some but I noticed this and decided to put a 'mylar square' in there (not shown in image). I've also put one on the left habitrail inlane drop and trimmed the top of the wire slot out from the mylar. The right habitrail drop could use a mylar (IMO) but this one needs to be longer as the ball can drop in a couple of ways based on the bit of dimpling I see.
Spooky does have a small mylar on the center drain which is nice as the PF edge is not beveled there.
IMG_20190414_1521170 (resized).jpgFinally made the time to look into my plunger coil alignment issue. I had sent an email in last week but hadn't heard back so maybe this will help a few others as I expect that, based on my findings, it can't just be our pin.
I pulled the apron out, which was (and remains) very tight and found a bit of wear and a crack in the wood rail 
. Looking past that and at the plunger coil bracket, I could see right away what the problem was, poor alignment due to the bracket sitting on top of the t-nuts (for the PF hanger bracket) which were not counter sunk into the playfield. This is definitely a QC concern as you can see that the self tapping screws for the coil bracket were actually screwed into the metal of each t-nut. I can't see that being easy to do especially while holding the bracket in place, likely by hand(?). I did what I can and have provided plenty of pics in hopes to help others.
I essentially traced around each t-nut with a small exacto knife to cut into the clear and first layer of ply and then carefully used a 1/2" drill bit to clear out a bit of wood. I had to trim away with the exacto knife as the 1/2" bit is a bit small but was all that I had. Ideally you would have a forstner bit of the correct size. That would clear the hole properly (flat bottom instead of tapered, using a regular bit). The head of the t-nut is not very thick so it shouldn't be too much work. When I was where I wanted, I used pipe wrench pliers to press the t-nut down into the hole (using the PF hanger bracket on the bottom side to prevent damaging the bottom of the PF). I thought that I had it but noticed that the pair of bolts which hold the hanger bracket in, from the bottom, are too long and stick out of the top of the t-nut. I did not notice this in the first pictures showing the nuts on top of the PF. I used two small washers on each bolt, along with the original lock washer and this allowed the coil bracket to sit properly on the PF.
You will see that the coil bracket itself was originally bent a couple of ways to try to compensate for how it was mounted on the nuts so I still have a bit a adjustment to get things right (left to right) but at least the coil is now sitting more in the middle of the ball (up and down). Autoplunges almost always make it smoothly around now but manual ones sometimes send the ball rattling up near the end of the metal plunger lane/ramp (left to right adjustment I suppose). I may have to fill in the self tapping screw holes and make new ones if I need to find more adjustment now.
IMG_20190414_1656313.jpgIMG_20190414_1603162.jpgIMG_20190414_1603560.jpgIMG_20190414_1604057.jpgIMG_20190414_1604266.jpgIMG_20190414_1657595.jpgIMG_20190414_1659015.jpgIMG_20190414_1656172.jpgIMG_20190414_1703004.jpgIMG_20190414_1730308.jpgIMG_20190414_1730545.jpgIMG_20190414_1750228.jpgIMG_20190414_1750407.jpgQuoted from dnaman:Finally made the time to look into my plunger coil alignment issue. I had sent an email in last week but hadn't heard back so maybe this will help a few others as I expect that, based on my findings, it can't just be our pin.
I pulled the apron out, which was (and remains) very tight and found a bit of wear and a crack in the wood rail . Looking past that and at the plunger coil bracket, I could see right away what the problem was, poor alignment due to the bracket sitting on top of the t-nuts (for the PF hanger bracket) which were not counter sunk into the playfield. This is definitely a QC concern as you can see that the self tapping screws for the coil bracket were actually screwed into the metal of each t-nut. I can't see that being easy to do especially while holding the bracket in place, likely by hand(?). I did what I can and have provided plenty of pics in hopes to help others.
I essentially traced around each t-nut with a small exacto knife to cut into the clear and first layer of ply and then carefully used a 1/2" drill bit to clear out a bit of wood. I had to trim away with the exacto knife as the 1/2" bit is a bit small but was all that I had. Ideally you would have a forstner bit of the correct size. That would clear the hole properly (flat bottom instead of tapered, using a regular bit). The head of the t-nut is not very thick so it shouldn't be too much work. When I was where I wanted, I used pipe wrench pliers to press the t-nut down into the hole (using the PF hanger bracket on the bottom side to prevent damaging the bottom of the PF). I thought that I had it but noticed that the pair of bolts which hold the hanger bracket in, from the bottom, are too long and stick out of the top of the t-nut. I did not notice this in the first pictures showing the nuts on top of the PF. I used two small washers on each bolt, along with the original lock washer and this allowed the coil bracket to sit properly on the PF.
You will see that the coil bracket itself was originally bent a couple of ways to try to compensate for how it was mounted on the nuts so I still have a bit a adjustment to get things right (left to right) but at least the coil is now sitting more in the middle of the ball (up and down). Autoplunges almost always make it smoothly around now but manual ones sometimes send the ball rattling up near the end of the metal plunger lane/ramp (left to right adjustment I suppose). I may have to fill in the self tapping screw holes and make new ones if I need to find more adjustment now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Well that’s a bummer! I think I’d redrill holes/slots in the coil bracket that could utilize the T-nuts. Get longer screws for the hangers and nuts for the bracket. Rather screw up a $1.05 bracket than a pf.
Yikes! You did a great job with that. I definitely would have half-ass'd a fix for that.
I bet Spooky will be out double-checking every single game on the line tomorrow morning.
Quoted from mjalexan:Well that’s a bummer! I think I’d redrill holes/slots in the coil bracket that could utilize the T-nuts. Get longer screws for the hangers and nuts for the bracket. Rather screw up a $1.05 bracket than a pf.
It sounds like you would still need to counter sink the t-nuts, or (if this is what you mean), just toss the t-nuts and use a nylon lock nut with a longer bolt through the coil and hanger brackets. If you keep the t-nuts, there is metal both on top and bottom that sits on/over it.
You are right of course, there are solutions and I am with you, best to just mount this without touching the PF. I would say that t-nuts are typically flush mounted, just seems like a brute force method here, I hope that this one was an exception. In the end, my countersink looks 'good' and it is under the coil bracket. Just leaves me no play for adjustment of the coil unless I elongate the two coil bracket holes.
Quoted from dnaman:It sounds like you would still need to counter sink the t-nuts, or (if this is what you mean), just toss the t-nuts and use a nylon lock nut with a longer bolt through the coil and hanger brackets. If you keep the t-nuts, there is metal both on top and bottom that sits on/over it.
You are right of course, there are solutions and I am with you, best to just mount this without touching the PF. I would say that t-nuts are typically flush mounted, just seems like a brute force method here, I hope that this one was an exception. In the end, my countersink looks 'good' and it is under the coil bracket. Just leaves me no play for adjustment of the coil unless I elongate the two coil bracket holes.
Yeah that’s what I was getting at. Drill, cut, hack the metal in case you have a woops on the playfield. Glad you didn’t! Your fix looks good. Thanks for the pf pictures too. Glad it wasn’t a lunar surface everywhere like some other games exhibit. Looking over my RZ I can count the dimples on one hand.
I'm worried about the main area of the PF though, there are more dimples than I care for so this will increase and there is no ETA for an overlay protector. Again some don't care but these costly and I'd prefer to try to preserve it, if there are options.
I'm not sure how important that piece of Doug fir is, but that crack is not gonna do anything but get worse. Maybe get a glue syringe and inject Titebond or something similar as far back as you can get, clamp it and let it dry?
Quoted from Billy16:I'm not sure how important that piece of Doug fir is, but that crack is not gonna do anything but get worse. Maybe get a glue syringe and inject Titebond or something similar as far back as you can get, clamp it and let it dry?
Yeah, I will have to remove it and glue it separately so that it doesn't adhere directly to the PF 
Looking below the playfield, there doesn't appear to be a mount screw for the wood rail at that spot so it must have been from the apron being so tight. If anyone else has removed and reinstalled their apron let me know if yours is this tight.
Quoted from dnaman:Finally made the time to look into my plunger coil alignment issue. I had sent an email in last week but hadn't heard back so maybe this will help a few others as I expect that, based on my findings, it can't just be our pin.
I pulled the apron out, which was (and remains) very tight and found a bit of wear and a crack in the wood rail . Looking past that and at the plunger coil bracket, I could see right away what the problem was, poor alignment due to the bracket sitting on top of the t-nuts (for the PF hanger bracket) which were not counter sunk into the playfield. This is definitely a QC concern as you can see that the self tapping screws for the coil bracket were actually screwed into the metal of each t-nut. I can't see that being easy to do especially while holding the bracket in place, likely by hand(?). I did what I can and have provided plenty of pics in hopes to help others.
I essentially traced around each t-nut with a small exacto knife to cut into the clear and first layer of ply and then carefully used a 1/2" drill bit to clear out a bit of wood. I had to trim away with the exacto knife as the 1/2" bit is a bit small but was all that I had. Ideally you would have a forstner bit of the correct size. That would clear the hole properly (flat bottom instead of tapered, using a regular bit). The head of the t-nut is not very thick so it shouldn't be too much work. When I was where I wanted, I used pipe wrench pliers to press the t-nut down into the hole (using the PF hanger bracket on the bottom side to prevent damaging the bottom of the PF). I thought that I had it but noticed that the pair of bolts which hold the hanger bracket in, from the bottom, are too long and stick out of the top of the t-nut. I did not notice this in the first pictures showing the nuts on top of the PF. I used two small washers on each bolt, along with the original lock washer and this allowed the coil bracket to sit properly on the PF.
You will see that the coil bracket itself was originally bent a couple of ways to try to compensate for how it was mounted on the nuts so I still have a bit a adjustment to get things right (left to right) but at least the coil is now sitting more in the middle of the ball (up and down). Autoplunges almost always make it smoothly around now but manual ones sometimes send the ball rattling up near the end of the metal plunger lane/ramp (left to right adjustment I suppose). I may have to fill in the self tapping screw holes and make new ones if I need to find more adjustment now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is terrible to see. 
Quoted from JustEverett:This is terrible to see.
I think that it is better to share and create awareness, this helps everyone. Hopefully these are limited in occurrences.
Quoted from dnaman:Finally made the time to look into my plunger coil alignment issue. I had sent an email in last week but hadn't heard back so maybe this will help a few others as I expect that, based on my findings, it can't just be our pin.
I pulled the apron out, which was (and remains) very tight and found a bit of wear and a crack in the wood rail . Looking past that and at the plunger coil bracket, I could see right away what the problem was, poor alignment due to the bracket sitting on top of the t-nuts (for the PF hanger bracket) which were not counter sunk into the playfield. This is definitely a QC concern as you can see that the self tapping screws for the coil bracket were actually screwed into the metal of each t-nut. I can't see that being easy to do especially while holding the bracket in place, likely by hand(?). I did what I can and have provided plenty of pics in hopes to help others.
I essentially traced around each t-nut with a small exacto knife to cut into the clear and first layer of ply and then carefully used a 1/2" drill bit to clear out a bit of wood. I had to trim away with the exacto knife as the 1/2" bit is a bit small but was all that I had. Ideally you would have a forstner bit of the correct size. That would clear the hole properly (flat bottom instead of tapered, using a regular bit). The head of the t-nut is not very thick so it shouldn't be too much work. When I was where I wanted, I used pipe wrench pliers to press the t-nut down into the hole (using the PF hanger bracket on the bottom side to prevent damaging the bottom of the PF). I thought that I had it but noticed that the pair of bolts which hold the hanger bracket in, from the bottom, are too long and stick out of the top of the t-nut. I did not notice this in the first pictures showing the nuts on top of the PF. I used two small washers on each bolt, along with the original lock washer and this allowed the coil bracket to sit properly on the PF.
You will see that the coil bracket itself was originally bent a couple of ways to try to compensate for how it was mounted on the nuts so I still have a bit a adjustment to get things right (left to right) but at least the coil is now sitting more in the middle of the ball (up and down). Autoplunges almost always make it smoothly around now but manual ones sometimes send the ball rattling up near the end of the metal plunger lane/ramp (left to right adjustment I suppose). I may have to fill in the self tapping screw holes and make new ones if I need to find more adjustment now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Do you have a QC sticker with a name on it under the lockdown bar?
Quoted from frankmac:Do you have a QC sticker with a name on it under the lockdown bar?
I shared a bunch of pics when I set it up. Not looking to create a witch hunt here though, just sharing my experience with things both good and bad, to help out others in the club. I've done the same in the JJP POTC club as I slowly worked through issues with the group.
Quoted from dnaman:I shared a bunch of pics when I set it up. Not looking to create a witch hunt here though, just sharing my experience with things both good and bad, to help out others in the club. I've done the same in the JJP POTC club as I slowly worked through issues with the group.
Sounds good. Hopefully they nip it before they ship more like yours.
Quoted from frankmac:Sounds good. Hopefully they nip it before they ship more like yours.
I wouldn't worry. My TNA and now Alice Cooper are flawless, albeit only 48 hours so far...but lots of plays. Plus, Spooky will make things right and correct issues.
Quoted from Crile1:I wouldn't worry. My TNA and now Alice Cooper are flawless, albeit only 48 hours so far...but lots of plays. Plus, Spooky will make things right and correct issues.
Good news.
I finally got to play an ACNC last weekend at the MGC. I must say it the machine that most surprised me when I actually played it. I really couldn't hear the music, and barely could make out the callouts, so no doubt in a home or less crowded arcade the experience would be even better. While not my favorite game I got to play during the expo I really enjoyed this game. I didn't think I would enjoy it at all. I knew I'd like the art/animations, and music, but the gameplay was pretty solid and fun. I do have some gripes about the playfield, as there are some shots that I don't think are fun and I'm not 100% sold on the code. But, it had some shots that I enjoyed, and in person it really is quite the looker. I watched this on a few streams and I never really liked the look, but in person its a really sweet looking pin. Great theme, great music, and very nice looking pin. Glad I got a chance to play this one as I have a newfound respect for it.
I am loving this game. If there is still more to come with this code, then this will truly be a gem because it is already amazing. Only criticism is that they need to turn the subwoofer way down when shipped. At factory settings it rattles the glass terribly. Sounds like some at MGC were put off because of the rattle. But I turned it down and still sounds great. Hopefully I can turn it up a little more once my anti-rattle tape arrives.
My amp setting were very high, I turned them down right away and then adjusted these along with the coin door volume buttons. All good (for me) now! Great sound by the way.
Quoted from dnaman:My amp setting were very high, I turned them down right away and then adjusted these along with the coin door volume buttons. All good (for me) now! Great sound by the way.
Yes, once you get it dialed in, it is awesome!
Quoted from dnaman:I think that it is better to share and create awareness, this helps everyone. Hopefully these are limited in occurrences.
I definitely appreciate the share. I just hate to see that kind of build quality as a future owner.
Quoted from JustEverett:I definitely appreciate the share. I just hate to see that kind of build quality as a future owner.
True! Not sure what happened here but everything else looks solid.
I was in touch with Christopher about my magnet not tossing the ball up for the save but it has been fine since. The magnet pattern of 'original' is preferred. The others start to increase the amount of delay before the magnet engages for the throw (after the light and sound show) so in my case I want the least amount of time for a 'pause' as it was dropping the ball. Ball save is immediately activated if it does drop it though.
Quoted from EricHadley:[quoted image]
Haha. I was just getting ready to post the same thing. It’s not pinball without the tilt bob. 
Calgary, AB
Quoted from Crile1:Well, this is a first. Flew up the left ramp and off the playfield into the cabinet! Should be a super duper skill shot award.
[quoted image]
The ball probably was diverting into the Frankenstein Monster for a lock, but Frank was in the "top" position, so the ball fell below him (there's a hole in the play field beneath him too). This happened to me as well, because I'm having an issue with the servo motor on the Frank toy not engaging properly. I'm working with Spooky to get it solved...
Quoted from Crile1:Busted! I was too excited to play it, forgot to install it. Well, guess that explains my amazing nudging skills.
Just help a fellow pinhead setup his new POTC yesterday, we were to excited to start flipping that we left the bob off. Off topic note, that game is amazing. I wasn't that excited about it, but after playing it I'm definitely hooked.
The game compares visually quite well to the Stern LE right beside it. Spooky should be very proud of that!
This game really is a lot of fun, most everyone that has played it at my house, pinheads and non-pinheads, really like the overall package it has. I'm working on getting together all my loves for the game and critiques(most of which are just code/mode related) of ways this game can go from really good to great and posting them so others can add their opinions and hopefully make it even better! Lovin it, those that are waiting will not be disappointed
Had a chance to make the trip down to Cactus Jacks in OKC for my first tour of the Nightmare Castle. I was a little nervous as the future owner of #286 who had never played the game. I loved the art and sound when I put my deposit down, and I thought it looked promising in terms of gameplay. That said, it was still a little scary to commit without flipping the table. I have to say that I was very impressed. Yes, there are some tough shots, but they are in no way unmakeable. It's certainly not an 80% brick rate as some have suggested (a bit of hyperbole in that hot take Buffalo Pinball did I think). I hit every shot in my first couple plays on the game, and I'm a mediocre player at best. I felt a lot of flow and even started to really like the orbit shots. They are really rewarding, especially when you find yourself making a couple orbits back to back. The upper playfield was the toughest for me. I was hitting the guillotine shot consistently, but the ramp over to frankenstein eluded me. It's not unmakeable, as a friend of mine hit it several times.
Seeing the art and animations confirmed what I thought from pictures, it's a beauty! The playfield is just wicked cool (although a little dark IMO) and the cabinet art and animations are just killer! The light show in various modes seemed to fit perfectly with each mode. In terms of sound, it never felt like we were hearing songs to much and getting sick of them. Spooky has done a nice job integrating the music into the game, but not to the point where it feels like just a jukebox. I was tapping my foot along while playing and really enjoying each song, and I've never been an avid Alice Cooper fan (please don't stone me for that comment).
One other little touch I noticed that struck me as very well thought out was the ball lock in Frankenstein's castle (I may be calling this the wrong thing). But when the ball locks and the monster is down behind the wall, the shine from the ball gives the feeling that the monster is staring out through that hole at the player. I thought it was a nice touch.
All in all, I think once people get out and put some time on this game they will love it! Rock on Spooky! Nice work!
Quoted from JustEverett:Had a chance to make the trip down to Cactus Jacks in OKC for my first tour of the Nightmare Castle. I was a little nervous as the future owner of #286 who had never played the game. I loved the art and sound when I put my deposit down, and I thought it looked promising in terms of gameplay. That said, it was still a little scary to commit without flipping the table. I have to say that I was very impressed. Yes, there are some tough shots, but they are in no way unmakeable. It's certainly not an 80% brick rate as some have suggested (a bit of hyperbole in that hot take Buffalo Pinball did I think). I hit every shot in my first couple plays on the game, and I'm a mediocre player at best. I felt a lot of flow and even started to really like the orbit shots. They are really rewarding, especially when you find yourself making a couple orbits back to back. The upper playfield was the toughest for me. I was hitting the guillotine shot consistently, but the ramp over to frankenstein eluded me. It's not unmakeable, as a friend of mine hit it several times.
Seeing the art and animations confirmed what I thought from pictures, it's a beauty! The playfield is just wicked cool (although a little dark IMO) and the cabinet art and animations are just killer! The light show in various modes seemed to fit perfectly with each mode. In terms of sound, it never felt like we were hearing songs to much and getting sick of them. Spooky has done a nice job integrating the music into the game, but not to the point where it feels like just a jukebox. I was tapping my foot along while playing and really enjoying each song, and I've never been an avid Alice Cooper fan (please don't stone me for that comment).
One other little touch I noticed that struck me as very well thought out was the ball lock in Frankenstein's castle (I may be calling this the wrong thing). But when the ball locks and the monster is down behind the wall, the shine from the ball gives the feeling that the monster is staring out through that hole at the player. I thought it was a nice touch.
All in all, I think once people get out and put some time on this game they will love it! Rock on Spooky! Nice work!
Does that rattle tape really work? I just streamed on facebook live (go ahead laugh ) for friends and family to see the game and the glass does rattle alot!
Agree JustEverette!!! I love that spinning gear When Frankenstein’s Monster rises!! Crazy. You MAY be having an issue locking a ball into Frankenstein’s Monster because the first ball needs to be locked from the lower playfield first. This activates the SDDRDD (Scott Danesi Designed Ramp Diverter Device) to “divert” and lessen the elevation of that shot to lock the Monsters second ball...
Seriously though, does that tape work?
Last time I talked to Chuck, it was under 75 left. But that's been a couple of weeks. I know there is no big rush. Spooky is focused on getting the ones sold, out the door.
Magicchiz
Ugh every little sound rattled the glass, they should account for this on the rest of the builds, it becomes an irritating sounds after awhile.
My anti-rattle tape will be here tomorrow, let’s hope that does the trick.
Anti rattle tape arrived yest. My gitd rings should arrive this afternoon...will update once both are in place. Just wondering if I have to remove the entire upper playfield and ramps to get at the rings and post by the change monster targets.
Quoted from FightNightFZ:Ugh every little sound rattled the glass, they should account for this on the rest of the builds, it becomes an irritating sounds after awhile.
My anti-rattle tape will be here tomorrow, let’s hope that does the trick.
Anti rattle tape worked wonders on my TNA. Should work well for acnc as well.
Quoted from Crile1:Anti rattle tape arrived yest. My gitd rings should arrive this afternoon...will update once both are in place. Just wondering if I have to remove the entire upper playfield and ramps to get at the rings and post by the change monster targets.
Haven't even looked, but waiting in anticipation for your report.
Magicchiz
Quoted from Crile1:Anti rattle tape arrived yest. My gitd rings should arrive this afternoon...will update once both are in place. Just wondering if I have to remove the entire upper playfield and ramps to get at the rings and post by the change monster targets.
What are the rings?
When we received our ACNC the glass shook so much you could not hear the game, I was told to turn down the bass(many have done that and it seems to solve the prob.) I had already bought a Polk psw 10 sub woofer , $88 to add to the game so instead of turning down the bass I disconnected the bass speaker and went directly to the sub and it sounds excellent! No more shake of the glass but loud explosions and Alice Cooper music loud and clear. I then turned my shaker back on because it was the air from the speaker shaking the glass not the shaker. Yes it is an extra $100 but well worth it.
Quoted from FightNightFZ:What are the rings?
Going to try out glow in the dark Titan silicone rings instead of the clear stock ones. Never tried them before, but they match the green in the playfield art and when/if they glow, I think it would look cool. Dunno, never tried these before...$25 experiment.
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