(Topic ID: 208341)

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Club: Enter at own risk!

By Sarge

6 years ago


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#3201 4 years ago

Display mod...

After tilting back display, we get this..
DSCN0110 (resized).JPGDSCN0110 (resized).JPGDSCN0113 (resized).JPGDSCN0113 (resized).JPG

So we need a bezel. But first, I used two 1" post sleeves and two 1-1/4" #6 screws to slant display back.
DSCN0125 (resized).JPGDSCN0125 (resized).JPGDSCN0123 (resized).JPGDSCN0123 (resized).JPGDSCN0138 (resized).JPGDSCN0138 (resized).JPGDSCN0139 (resized).JPGDSCN0139 (resized).JPG

Also, I used two slightly longer screws for the bottom of display mounting. I just used two nuts as washers (in pic) the originals were too short to grab enough.
DSCN0152 (resized).JPGDSCN0152 (resized).JPG

But first we need to drill two new mounting screw holes for bottom of display, exactly 1/4" above the original hole (I epoxied the old holes).
DSCN0141 (resized).JPGDSCN0141 (resized).JPG
DSCN0144 (resized).JPGDSCN0144 (resized).JPG

I removed the plastic display cover. It's not needed and dirt gets in there which will force you to remove display to clean it out. Just carefully push it out with you fingers. Clean off any residual glue that remains so there is a nice flat surface to glue bezels to.
DSCN0148 (resized).JPGDSCN0148 (resized).JPG

The two top screws with sleeve posts can be marked after you set display in place with lower mounting screws. I carefully marked the hole location with a scratch-all and drilled out some wood for screws. *CAUTION* Do not drill through panel !!
DSCN0159 (resized).JPGDSCN0159 (resized).JPGDSCN0160 (resized).JPGDSCN0160 (resized).JPG

I also repositioned the speaker light rings and trimmed the speaker mesh to clean things up around the side bezels we are going to install. You need to cut some zip tie straps to do this, so get a bag of 4" tie straps at hardware store for this project.
DSCN0136 (resized).JPGDSCN0136 (resized).JPGDSCN0134 (resized).JPGDSCN0134 (resized).JPGDSCN0133 (resized).JPGDSCN0133 (resized).JPG

Now, get some thin Polystyrene Plastic Sheet and some plastic friendly black paint.
DSCN0161 (resized).JPGDSCN0161 (resized).JPG
DSCN0162 (resized).JPGDSCN0162 (resized).JPGDSCN0163 (resized).JPGDSCN0163 (resized).JPG

Now you need to measure and cut out the three bezel pieces. (Sorry. I forgot to write down measurements.)
DSCN0167 (resized).JPGDSCN0167 (resized).JPG

Then spray paint both sides..
DSCN0174 (resized).JPGDSCN0174 (resized).JPGDSCN0177 (resized).JPGDSCN0177 (resized).JPG

I used a hot glue gun to glue the plastic bezel pieces to wood ledge of slot where display window was installed.
1840259 (resized).jpg1840259 (resized).jpg
Now I just used Gorilla tape to tape top bezel to display mounting bracket and around each corner.
DSCN0181 (resized).JPGDSCN0181 (resized).JPG

Here is the finished result. Awesome sharp image that pops!!!! No light blead from back box or speaker lights. Fit and finished!!
DSCN0187 (resized).JPGDSCN0187 (resized).JPG
DSCN0189 (resized).JPGDSCN0189 (resized).JPGDSCN0190 (resized).JPGDSCN0190 (resized).JPG

Now keep in mind that the display opening is a little too small for the display. The bottom mounting holes that were drilled 1/4" above the originals is key here! Any higher and too much display top gets cut off. Any lower and too much bottom gets cut off. This is as perfect as you can get it. I suspect that the display controller is not functional for adjusting the screen positions because it's a Linux variant OS and display drivers are limited. So this is the best we can do. Some could enlarge the display hole 1/4" if they have a router. I don't have one or I might have done it. But I'm 6'3" tall and the top display scores still gets slightly cut off, but it did before I moved it. No biggy though.

** These mounting bracket slots (circled in red below) should also be covered with Gorilla tape or light will shine through these slots and bezels may not 100% block it all. There are four locations to tape these shut.
* Also, make sure when mounting the display to use the mounting holes shown, or display will sit too high!
a6553effbc4149050ffabe0827b6ce3ebdb27e99 (resized).jpga6553effbc4149050ffabe0827b6ce3ebdb27e99 (resized).jpg

#3202 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Display mod...
After tilting back display, we get this..[quoted image][quoted image]

Please tell me how to do this! And a little insulation/gasket tape to fix the light bleed...or if someone has a 3D printer...
I got it. Looked at the rest of the pics. Great fix to my only problem with the game!

#3203 4 years ago

A 3D printer printing a frame at the appropriate angle/thickness with screw holes. No more sleeves needed, just screws to hold the 3D printed frame in place.

#3204 4 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

A 3D printer printing a frame at the appropriate angle/thickness with screw holes. No more sleeves needed, just screws to hold the 3D printed frame in place.

Sounds like a marketable mod for someone to make. I'm sure I would be a buyer!

#3205 4 years ago

I’m in!

#3206 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

You would need to contact Spooky for that, I assume. The ACNC CPU is one of these: https://up-board.org/ (I believe the standard one.) Which means there's an operating system installed (and if you watch it boot up, it looks like a Linux variant!), which then launches the game software.

#3207 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

ACNC uses a Celeron processor which is a single core processor and 8GB ram. It's all that needed for this game.

Mine is reporting an Intel Atom processor? Quad core, 4gb ram

#3208 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Mine is reporting an Intel Atom processor? Quad core, 4gb ram

OK, I'm mixing it up with my Hobbit!
Sorry..

#3209 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Display mod...
After tilting back display, we get this..
[quoted image][quoted image]
So we need a bezel. But first, I used two 1" post sleeves and two 1-1/4" #6 screws to slant display back.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Also, I used two slightly longer screws for the bottom of display mounting. I just used two nuts as washers (in pic) the originals were too short to grab enough.
[quoted image]
But first we need two drill two new mounting screw holes for bottom display exactly 1/4" above the original hole (I epoxied the old holes).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Also I removed the shit plastic display cover. It's not needed and dirt gets in there which will force you to remove display to clean it out. Just carefully push it out with you fingers.
[quoted image]
The two top screws with sleeve posts can be marked after you set display in place with lower mounting screws. I carefully marked the hole location with a scratch-all and drilled out some wood for screws.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I also repositioned the speaker light ring and trimmed the speaker mesh to clean things up around the side bezels we are going to install. You need to cut some zip tie straps to do this, so get a bag of 4" tie straps at hardware store for this project.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Now, get some thin Polystyrene Plastic Sheet and some plastic friendly black paint.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
Now you need to measure and cut out the three bezel pieces.
[quoted image]
Then spray paint both sides..
[quoted image][quoted image]
I used a hot glue gun to glue the plastic bezel pieces to wood edge where display window was installed.
[quoted image]
Now I just used Gorilla tape to tape top bezel to display mounting bracket and around each corner.
[quoted image]
Here is the finished result. Awesome sharp image that pops!!!! No light blead from back box or speaker lights. Fit and finished!!
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
** Now keep in mind that the display opening is a little too small for the display. The bottom mounting holes that were drilled 1/4" above the originals is key here! Any higher and too much display top gets cut off. Any lower and too much bottom gets cut off. This is as perfect as you can get it. I suspect that the display controller is not functional for adjusting the screen positions because it's a Linux variant OS and display drivers are limited. So this is the best we can do. Some could enlarge the display hole 1/4" if they have a router. I don't have one or I might have done it. But I'm 6'3" tall and the top display scores still gets slightly cut off, but it did before I moved it. No biggy though.

Awesomely well done! May have to tackle this a some point! My craft skills *suck*, though, sadly.

#3210 4 years ago

Just wondering if the toppers ever went into production? I hadn't heard anything since sending my info back in October...

#3211 4 years ago

Topper is cool. I emailed KT and snagged one. $300.

-Ned

776C0EE0-0501-49B5-BFDE-45041F4B7F82 (resized).jpeg776C0EE0-0501-49B5-BFDE-45041F4B7F82 (resized).jpeg936C4E44-9FD4-4D41-9518-820CCF3A85FE (resized).jpeg936C4E44-9FD4-4D41-9518-820CCF3A85FE (resized).jpeg
#3212 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Awesomely well done! May have to tackle this a some point! My craft skills *suck*, though, sadly.

Na, it was easy to do! Like all things pinball, take your time and think things through.
Happy New Year!!

#3213 4 years ago
Quoted from chill:

Topper is cool. I emailed KT and snagged one.

Nice! Got on the list back in October within an hour of when they were announced & still waiting. I asked Squirrel & she said they still haven't gotten around to making mine yet.

#3214 4 years ago
Quoted from chill:

Topper is cool. I emailed KT and snagged one. $300

How long ago? The day they were announced I told them I wanted one. Even followed up ... told they would contact me.

#3215 4 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

Anyone else install PinStadium Fusions on ACNC? I’m close, but having some difficulty on the RGB tie into the flasher. Or a wiring diagram would be amazing as well!!

My uv flasher on my pinstadium is attached to my shaker motor. if you look back in this thread you should find some pictures.
Magicchiz

#3216 4 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

My uv flasher on my pinstadium is attached to my shaker motor

Thanks! I have that working well, it's the Orion's Belt 8 wire connection that will be the death of me. Tapping into J5 (provides upper PF flasher power/light).

#3217 4 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

How long ago? The day they were announced I told them I wanted one. Even followed up ... told they would contact me.

I ordered the topper before my game was built, around August maybe? It shipped with my game in November. Hope that helps.

-Ned

DEFE2FC2-C93E-4A58-86B5-4A6B0CB86353 (resized).jpegDEFE2FC2-C93E-4A58-86B5-4A6B0CB86353 (resized).jpeg
#3218 4 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

Anyone else install PinStadium Fusions on ACNC? I’m close, but having some difficulty on the RGB tie into the flasher. Or a wiring diagram would be amazing as well!!

I soldered my Omegas to the shaker motor, connected the GI to the coin door, and ran power out the back of the cabinet.

#3219 4 years ago
Quoted from VonPinball:

connected the GI to the coin door

Wouldn't this not be wanted because they will just be on the whole time? I've been talking to Scott at Pinstadium and have had a heck of a time installing my regular Pinstadiums. I wrapped the leads around the wire from the GI bulb board but my Pinstadiums are super dim even on 100% on the app. Scott thinks it's not getting a good connection. Would love to see some pics from successful ACNC Pinstadium installs for reference.

#3220 4 years ago

I really, truly appreciate what Mr_Outlane has done with the display. I’m wondering if there is anyone with a 3D printer that can fabricate a frame to do the same thing. This is one of the only things that bugged me, and Mr_Outlane fixed it. I’m so stoked on this mod. If I have to I will follow their instructions, but if someone is willing to print a frame that is easily installed, I will certainly pay for it.

#3221 4 years ago
Quoted from GuiitarMan:

Wouldn't this not be wanted because they will just be on the whole time? I've been talking to Scott at Pinstadium and have had a heck of a time installing my regular Pinstadiums. I wrapped the leads around the wire from the GI bulb board but my Pinstadiums are super dim even on 100% on the app. Scott thinks it's not getting a good connection. Would love to see some pics from successful ACNC Pinstadium installs for reference.

You can Not hook to any controlled bulb. They are addressable. It will not work, gi hook up is coin door bulbs. Flasher to shaker motor.
Magicchiz

#3222 4 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I really, truly appreciate what mr_outlane has done with the display. I’m wondering if there is anyone with a 3D printer that can fabricate a frame to do the same thing. This is one of the only things that bugged me, and mr_outlane fixed it. I’m so stoked on this mod. If I have to I will follow their instructions, but if someone is willing to print a frame that is easily installed, I will certainly pay for it.

+1

#3223 4 years ago

Huge thanks to @vongator and Magicchiz for the Pinstadium help. Had been going crazy trying to figure it out and they make this game's art and molds pop!!!

20200101_214701 (resized).jpg20200101_214701 (resized).jpg20200101_214759 (resized).jpg20200101_214759 (resized).jpg20200101_214915 (resized).jpg20200101_214915 (resized).jpg20200101_215024 (resized).jpg20200101_215024 (resized).jpg20200101_214750 (resized).jpg20200101_214750 (resized).jpg
#3224 4 years ago

Hey @guiitarman, I have the same severed Alice head from the same figure set, however, I have been trying to find a good item to hold it and wanted to put it next to the guillotine just as you did. Where did you get the basket from that you are using? That looks perfect!

#3225 4 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Hey guiitarman, I have the same severed Alice head from the same figure set, however, I have been trying to find a good item to hold it and wanted to put it next to the guillotine just as you did. Where did you get the basket from that you are using? That looks perfect!

My girlfriend got it for me for Xmas. She got it from Ebay. It already came with head, basket, magnet and velcro for attaching. It looks great, but I don't like the location it's at on the playfield. I've been trying to figure out a better place, but havent had any luck.

#3226 4 years ago
Quoted from GuiitarMan:

My girlfriend got it for me for Xmas. She got it from Ebay. It already came with head, basket, magnet and velcro for attaching. It looks great, but I don't like the location it's at on the playfield. I've been trying to figure out a better place, but havent had any luck.

Ah, okay.. someone made it into a mod then. The head is from the McFarland figure, and apparently, so is the basket. For some reason I am missing the basket. Found a picture of the whole figure scene and the basket is there.

Screenshot_20200101-213904_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200101-213904_eBay (resized).jpg
#3227 4 years ago
Quoted from GuiitarMan:

Clear my upvote
Huge thanks to vongator and MagicChiz for the Pinstadium help.

Did you go Fusion or regular PinStadiums? If Fusion, I am interested in your connections...

#3228 4 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

Did you go Fusion or regular PinStadiums? If Fusion, I am interested in your connections...

Mine are regular Pinstadiums.

#3229 4 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

You can Not hook to any controlled bulb. They are addressable. It will not work, gi hook up is coin door bulbs. Flasher to shaker motor.
Magicchiz

No, the BULBS are not 'addressable'. They have 4 connections: +5v, R driver, B driver, and G driver. The addressing is all done on the P-ROC's lamp boards.

Don't believe me? Take one plug off a GI and swap it with a nearby lamp. You will notice that the controlling now affects the new lamp, follows the wire. Not the old lamp.

NOW - however, as I mentioned earlier - the lamp boards were NOT DESIGNED to handle high-current. You will fry the drivers on the board. LED only, and low-current ones at that!

#3230 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

They have 4 connections: +5v, R driver, B driver, and G driver. The addressing is all done on the P-ROC's lamp boards.

I think it is 3.3v at the board based on P-ROC diagrams.

#3231 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The addressing is all done on the P-ROC's lamp boards.

I guess this might explain the issues of tying into these connections for PinStadium Fusions .. fighting a lamp chip, not just tying into the signal?

#3232 4 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

I think it is 3.3v at the board based on P-ROC diagrams.

you could be right - i was going from memory and aren't that familiar with the power requirements on lamps yet.

Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

I guess this might explain the issues of tying into these connections for PinStadium Fusions .. fighting a lamp chip, not just tying into the signal?

Kinda - I don't know what the PinStadiums need, I THOUGHT they just looked for a change in voltage (or drew power straight from) a flasher or something. If they're not just watching voltage levels (Driver high, flasher off. Driver low, flasher on.) and using current through the flasher driver circuit, then connecting it to a driven lamp could fry the P-Roc board, sadly.

#3233 4 years ago

The leds are also driven by PWM signal making things more complicated. It's not an easy on or off.

#3234 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I don't know what the PinStadiums need, I THOUGHT they just looked for a change in voltage (or drew power straight from) a flasher or something. If they're not just watching voltage levels (Driver high, flasher off. Driver low, flasher on.) and using current through the flasher driver circuit, then connecting it to a driven lamp could fry the P-Roc board, sadly.

I'm reaching out to Scott again today and asking what do Fusions need. I'm to the point of just keeping normal PinStadiums and dropping the entire "Fusion" option as I am unable to get these to work.

#3235 4 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

I'm reaching out to Scott again today and asking what do Fusions need. I'm to the point of just keeping normal PinStadiums and dropping the entire "Fusion" option as I am unable to get these to work.

I personally have decided to never tie into the power/lighting system again. The systems can fry out if you hook into the wrong thing (I know from experience) and that can be costly. I’ve decided to use a Mean Well power supply that is not tied to the game at all. Will be 100% independent power supply. That does mean you will lose any game integration for the lighted mods, but much safer. I see why Spooky won’t cover lighted mods that plug into the games power, along with voiding any warranty, as it can go horribly wrong.

#3236 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No, the BULBS are not 'addressable'. They have 4 connections: +5v, R driver, B driver, and G driver. The addressing is all done on the P-ROC's lamp boards.
Don't believe me? Take one plug off a GI and swap it with a nearby lamp. You will notice that the controlling now affects the new lamp, follows the wire. Not the old lamp.
NOW - however, as I mentioned earlier - the lamp boards were NOT DESIGNED to handle high-current. You will fry the drivers on the board. LED only, and low-current ones at that!

Excuse me, they are addressable, yeah I didn't mean the bulb itself. But if you add one to the string it drops one. Now about your Tone of voice in your post.... To the rack you go!

#3237 4 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

The systems can fry out if you hook into the wrong thing (I know from experience) and that can be costly. I’ve decided to use a Mean Well power supply that is not tied to the game at all.

Thank you! I appreciate the information. And yes, attaching the Fusions gets pretty involved. They will likely hit the road.

#3238 4 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

To the rack you go!Oh, please! It means I'm just a couple orbits from the next Monster!

As for me, I don't need any extra light in my game. I like it being on the dark side (not too dark I can't see the ball, mind you), and the ambient lighting in my room does really well.

#3239 4 years ago

I have a limited number of Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Pinball "Castle Wall" Mods and "Alice Face" Magnet Protector Mods available.

The "Castle Wall" mod covers up that ugly castle wall that doesn't quite look right with a high quality vinyl decal(with cut outs) that replicates the brick pattern of the molded castle pieces on your machine.

The Alice Face Magnet protector is cut perfectly and matches the color scheme of the playfield.

The Castle Wall Mod is $35 Shipped
The Alice FaceMagnet Protector is $13 Shipped.

If interested, I can do a combo deal for both mods(Castle Wall & Alice Face) for $44 shipped.
If you are interested, PM me
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-2
#3240 4 years ago

From the Rick and Morty thread. I asked in there if guys were concerned about buying a Rick and Morty because of the issues with Alice Cooper. Got some guys bent outta shape that I dared ask a question. LOL But my question resulted in this info, so figured I'd post it here in case it's new news.
----

Just a clarification on this. The memory leak is not a Multimorphic P3-ROC issue. It is a software issue on the PC. This issue is being worked on for ACNC as we speak (I have seen the new code) and this has been proactively addressed for R&M and will not be an issue there. The reason we put a larger computer in it was to handle the vast amounts of HD video that are going in this thing. We wanted more RAM, more CPU, and a better video processor. The PC that we are using is also made from off the shelf parts, which I am a huge advocate of.
--Scott

#3241 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Just a clarification on this. The memory leak is not a Multimorphic P3-ROC issue. It is a software issue on the PC.

I said the exact same thing earlier in the thread. It's not hardware, but software.

#3242 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

From the Rick and Morty thread. I asked in there if guys were concerned about buying a Rick and Morty because of the issues with Alice Cooper. Got some guys bent outta shape that I dared ask a question. LOL But my question resulted in this info, so figured I'd post it here in case it's new news.
----
Just a clarification on this. The memory leak is not a Multimorphic P3-ROC issue. It is a software issue on the PC. This issue is being worked on for ACNC as we speak (I have seen the new code) and this has been proactively addressed for R&M and will not be an issue there. The reason we put a larger computer in it was to handle the vast amounts of HD video that are going in this thing. We wanted more RAM, more CPU, and a better video processor. The PC that we are using is also made from off the shelf parts, which I am a huge advocate of.
--Scott

So are they using a different software platform then?

#3243 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

So are they using a different software platform then?

No. It's still PRoc hardware. It's just the CPU/Computer used to run the PRoc hardware. Sounds like they're using something more powerful than an SBC.

#3244 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No. It's still PRoc hardware. It's just the CPU/Computer used to run the PRoc hardware. Sounds like they're using something more powerful than an SBC.

That's hardware, not software? If they're using the same software base (which I'd assume they are), seems like they'd still have a memory leak, unless it's an error in the Alice-specific code somehow

#3245 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That's hardware, not software? If they're using the same software base (which I'd assume they are), seems like they'd still have a memory leak, unless it's an error in the Alice-specific code somehow

No, they will still be using SkeletonGame and the Python PinProc libraries. Same software. Just different host system that's used to run the Python to talk to the PRoc boards.

Sorry, realize my previous reply was a little confusing.

#3246 4 years ago
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#3247 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No, they will still be using SkeletonGame and the Python PinProc libraries. Same software. Just different host system that's used to run the Python to talk to the PRoc boards.
Sorry, realize my previous reply was a little confusing.

So, still same possibility for memory leak

#3248 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

So, still same possibility for memory leak

Yup. But - IMHO, no. This is just gut feelings here, but:
The memory leak in ACNC was caused by the developer or the topper code. Since ACNC's developer isn't on R&M, and won't have the topper code, likely they will not have the issue.

That's NOT saying they wouldn't have OTHER issues. And not saying that the current developer won't run into other issues, as the 'SkeletonGame' framework works great - unless you try to do something custom. Then it's a hairy mess.

#3249 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

From the Rick and Morty thread. I asked in there if guys were concerned about buying a Rick and Morty because of the issues with Alice Cooper. Got some guys bent outta shape that I dared ask a question.

It wasn't quite like that, you also threw in a bunch of opinions and insinuations. Hence the backlash and numerous downvotes your comments garnered. Some of us are in on both machines and are in both threads so your attempt to glaze it over falls short.

-8
#3250 4 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

It wasn't quite like that, you also threw in a bunch of opinions and insinuations. Hence the backlash and numerous downvotes your comments garnered. Some of us are in on both machines and are in both threads so your attempt to glaze it over falls short.

I added opinions to my post? Well god damn, sorry about that.

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