(Topic ID: 208341)

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Club: Enter at own risk!

By Sarge

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by surfinvet
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#1051 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So what’s involved with tapping RGB?

Instructions will be more detailed with photos, but 4 splice connectors will be included with the RGB version in case the customer has the interactive speaker lights and would prefer to simply use those (no cutting necessary and no soldering involved in either case).

Without the existing speaker lights, a splice connector is used just for the power wire, then the three RGB wires are pushed into the factory IDC connector (again, this will be made clear in the instructions with photos, and I may add some photos to my thread as well). I installed mine this way without the speaker lighting.

Nothing truly difficult, but I know some aren't as comfortable working near the boards.

Quoted from JustEverett:

Order placed! Should have my pin here in the next week or so. Can't wait to get this crypt on there with the interactive lighting!

Much appreciated. Thank you!

RGB is the popular choice thus far.

#1052 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Instructions will be more detailed with photos, but 4 splice connectors will be included with the RGB version in case the customer has the interactive speaker lights and would prefer to simply use those (no cutting necessary and no soldering involved in either case).
Without the existing speaker lights, a splice connector is used just for the power wire, then the three RGB wires are pushed into the factory IDC connector (again, this will be made clear in the instructions with photos, and I may add some photos to my thread as well). I installed mine this way without the speaker lighting.
Nothing truly difficult, but I know some aren't as comfortable working near the boards.

Much appreciated. Thank you!
RGB is the popular choice thus far.

So if you have interactive speaker lights, it’s plug and play. Correct?

#1053 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So if you have interactive speaker lights, it’s plug and play. Correct?

With the speaker lights, it gives the option of splicing into them with one of these connectors pictured below. No need to cut the wires. These allow the wires already in the game to just be slipped over and the wires from the mod to be beside them. Just press down the blade with pliers and close the top.

So not quite as plug and play as I prefer my mods to be, but no soldering is involved. If it proves to be too much effort or concern for anyone with the RGB kit, instructions will note how to get any static color with the RGB kit.

The other picture shows my game without the speaker kit (speaker kit board will have extra connectors beneath the clear IDCs).

RGB wires go at the top of that IDC (IDC pushdown tool may help, but I was able to just pull them into the connector and push with a credit card [cutting off excess out the other end]) and the splice connector is connecting the black wire from the mod to the yellow wire in the game.

Hope this makes it a bit more clear. I'll always be available to answer questions.

20190710_011007 (resized).jpgconnector (resized).jpg
#1054 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

With the speaker lights, it gives the option of splicing into them with one of these connectors pictured below. No need to cut the wires. These allow the wires already in the game to just be slipped over and the wires from the mod to be beside them. Just press down the blade with pliers and close the top.
So not quite as plug and play as I prefer my mods to be, but no soldering is involved. If it proves to be too much effort or concern for anyone with the RGB kit, instructions will note how to get any static color with the RGB kit.
The other picture shows my game without the speaker kit (speaker kit board will have extra connectors beneath the clear IDCs).
RGB wires go at the top of that IDC (IDC pushdown tool may help, but I was able to just pull them into the connector and push with a credit card [cutting off excess out the other end]) and the splice connector is connecting the black wire from the mod to the yellow wire in the game.
Hope this makes it a bit more clear. I'll always be available to answer questions.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks.

Do you think the mod looks better with a static light or the RGB?

#1055 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Thanks.
Do you think the mod looks better with a static light or the RGB?

RGB will be green much of the time as the speaker lights are, which works for a graveyard/crypt feel (and compliments the castle color), but if I were to pick any one color, I thought Ice Blue may look the best (accents the blue crypt well and compliments Frank and the blue side art for those that have it).

Color is very subjective and it's not as clear cut for this application.

Short answer is that "I" think it looks best in Ice Blue, but I may also find it more satisfying to have the colors change with the game.

#1056 2 years ago

Received my game on Wednesday and just updated to most recent code. Game is solid and playing great out of the box. The glass rattle from the sub is horrible, turned the volume down to 1 and that helped until I can get some tape.

Biggest problem I am having is balls getting stuck on the switch coming off the upper playfield. Has anyone else had this issue? Playfield is level and pitched to 6.7

20190712_110553 (resized).jpg
#1057 2 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Received my game on Wednesday and just updated to most recent code. Game is solid and playing great out of the box. The glass rattle from the sub is horrible, turned the volume down to 1 and that helped until I can get some tape.
Biggest problem I am having is balls getting stuck on the switch coming off the upper playfield. Has anyone else had this issue? Playfield is level and pitched to 6.7[quoted image]

Get the rattle tape discussed on here. I used the entire roll and it needed it. I haven’t heard of that switch causing issues. Does it feel like its binding or otherwise indicate it may be a
“bad switch”?

#1058 2 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Biggest problem I am having is balls getting stuck on the switch coming off the upper playfield. Has anyone else had this issue? Playfield is level and pitched to 6.7[quoted image]

I can't help with this one but if I can add to this and help someone else; I would have balls stuck at the switch to the left of this one, the lane that exits on the rail. I looked last night and discovered that there is a black wire below the upper played that was often preventing the front of the rollover switch from going down/actuating!

#1059 2 years ago

I had this happen for the first time today during a really good Frank multiball. Ball-search seemed to just run forever after this. Is there supposed to be that large gap in the rails of the ramp?

StuckBall2 (resized).pngstuck_ramp (resized).png
#1060 2 years ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

Get the rattle tape discussed on here. I used the entire roll and it needed it. I haven’t heard of that switch causing issues. Does it feel like its binding or otherwise indicate it may be a
“bad switch”?

How is this rattle tape applied?

#1061 2 years ago
Quoted from Maide:

I had this happen for the first time today during a really good Frank multiball. Ball-search seemed to just run forever after this. Is there supposed to be that large gap in the rails of the ramp?[quoted image][quoted image]

Don't think it should be that far out...mine is pretty much against the wood.

20190515_162655 (resized).jpg
#1062 2 years ago

Thanks, Medisinyl! It happened on the last game I was going to play before I left to go to work, so I haven't had a chance to take the glass off and fix it. Maybe the ramp is way forward.

#1063 2 years ago

I could use a little help, here, and please keep in mind that I’m one of the least technical savvy people to ever own a pin.

At the start of each game, before a ball is plunged, the game immediately says “skill shot” and awards 2 million points. Then when I put a ball in play it immediately starts crypt multiball. And then as I play it out, the game often loses track of how many balls are in play.

I’m thinking it’s an opto issue in the crypt, but the switch tests fine and the opto just past the first drop target seems to be working properly (there’s only one opto in the crypt, right?). Any other ideas of what I should check?

#1064 2 years ago

does anyone know if there are colored plastic protectors available yet>
cheers
Trevor

#1065 2 years ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

does anyone know if there are colored plastic protectors available yet>
cheers
Trevor

I was thinking about making some green ones. I will need to prototype and see how it looks.
--Scott

#1066 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I was thinking about making some green ones. I will need to prototype and see how it looks.
--Scott

great, please let me know how they go, I would be keen to purchase a set.
cheers
Trevor

#1067 2 years ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

great, please let me know how they go, I would be keen to purchase a set.
cheers
Trevor

I can cut some on Monday.

#1068 2 years ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

I haven’t heard of that switch causing issues. Does it feel like its binding or otherwise indicate it may be a
“bad switch”?

Does not feel like its binding up or sticking, mostly slow trickling balls get stuck but some faster moving balls have as well. going to try and adjust the angle of the arm to see if it helps

13
#1069 2 years ago

Well today was great. Acnc tournament for the Nebraska League's in Lincoln, and Omaha. Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle #18 got a great showing and event. The Backdrop hid the hallway to the game. When it was time for someone to play. They had to walk thru Frank and Alice to get to the game. After they played they got a photo op with both. Notice Alice's shirt.. Hehe. Then don't forget the cookie! Magicchiz

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#1070 2 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Well today was great. Acnc tournament for the Nebraska League's in Lincoln, and Omaha. Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle #18 got a great showing and event. The Backdrop hid the hallway to the game. When it was time for someone to play. They had to walk thru Frank and Alice to get to the game. After they played they got a photo op with both. Notice Alice's shirt.. Hehe. Then don't forget the cookie! Magicchiz[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is awesome.

#1071 2 years ago

True story, my boy Uther’s been attracted to this pin since it showed up.
5E284161-0C29-4B89-8CED-63A597B60481 (resized).jpeg

#1072 2 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:I could use a little help, here, and please keep in mind that I’m one of the least technical savvy people to ever own a pin.
At the start of each game, before a ball is plunged, the game immediately says “skill shot” and awards 2 million points. Then when I put a ball in play it immediately starts crypt multiball. And then as I play it out, the game often loses track of how many balls are in play.
I’m thinking it’s an opto issue in the crypt, but the switch tests fine and the opto just past the first drop target seems to be working properly (there’s only one opto in the crypt, right?). Any other ideas of what I should check?

Additionally, the ball won’t lock properly in the crypt (behind the first drop target) and the first drop won’t reset in the up position every time it’s supposed to. The coils and switches are all testing fine, but do I need to somehow adjust the opto behind the first drop target?
Is it necessary to remove the whole Playfield to get to it?

The game worked fine for about the first twenty games. Thanks.

#1073 2 years ago

Finally got to play this beast and it is AWESOME!
Really enjoyed the art, screen and light show.
Just dang good fun, only issues I noticed was the rattle of the shaker motor.
The lay out is different, good feeling, unique and that upper play field is hard but a joy to play in.
The skill shot is another nice feature that I haven't seen before.
Did I mention the kick ass sound!
Congrats to those who bought one, good choice.

#1074 2 years ago
Quoted from oldskool1969:

... only issues I noticed was the rattle of the shaker motor.

That rattle you are referring to was probably caused by the internal sub, not the shaker.

#1075 2 years ago

I haven't been able to start Frank multiball yet, and I'm not sure if I haven't hit the right shots yet or if something else is at play. Hoping someone more experienced with this game can shed a bit of light on starting this mode.

First ball up the "Lab Lock" left inner ramp locks fine and the "Ball 1 Locked" animation plays. At this point, both "Lab Lock 2" & the "Black-eyes" on the back board start flashing, but the lab lock 2 drop target never comes up. A shot at the Vamp Stake switch below the flashing black eyes does not raise the drop target and any shot from the upper play field to that ramp simply follows the ramp back to the lower play field.

So far, I've tested the drop target in coil test and it seems to work fine; up, down, no issues. The Vampire Stake switch works fine and registers in test mode as well as inflicting damage on Dracula during Vampire mode. I also tried to artificially start Frank mode with the glass off. First ball from left locks fine. Next, when pressing the "Vamp Stake" button, I can hear a click and the "Lab Lock 2" drop target flinches a bit, but does not raise. After raising the playfield, I can not find any physical reason for the hangup - all springs and connections seem fine. Any ideas for a potential malfunction (& fix!) or an explanation of a rule I am missing would be most helpful! Loving this game!

#1076 2 years ago

3 layers of anti-rattle tape on each side of the glass (one each right and left and another strip at the head portion) finally solved my rattle issue at volume level 2. I heard clear bass for the first time and it was wonderful.

#1077 2 years ago

Can someone drop a link for the anti-rattle tape? Mine should arrive soon, and I want to have some ready, but I'm not really sure what to buy.

#1078 2 years ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

Can someone drop a link for the anti-rattle tape? Mine should arrive soon, and I want to have some ready, but I'm not really sure what to buy.

https://flipperfidelity.com/sound/anti-rattle-tape.html

This is what I use on all my games.
Magicchiz

#1080 2 years ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

First ball up the "Lab Lock" left inner ramp locks fine and the "Ball 1 Locked" animation plays. At this point, both "Lab Lock 2" & the "Black-eyes" on the back board start flashing, but the lab lock 2 drop target never comes up. A shot at the Vamp Stake switch below the flashing black eyes does not raise the drop target and any shot from the upper play field to that ramp simply follows the ramp back to the lower play field.

When you launch the skill shot, is the ball making a complete orbit, or is it falling back to the flipper from the right side of orbit? If the latter there is a known bug that is fixed in the next version. This bug will cause switches to not respond since the game thinks its in a certain phase of the skillshot.

Use the drop diag option from the utilities menu. This will put all the drop targets in up/down position and check to see if the switches are responding to those states. If a coil isn't resetting a drop target properly, it will let you know where is fails.

#1081 2 years ago

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle fluorescent green plastic sling and lane guide protectors are now up on the Pinball Life website!

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0122-00

20190715_105432 (resized).jpg
#1082 2 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

When you launch the skill shot, is the ball making a complete orbit, or is it falling back to the flipper from the right side of orbit? If the latter there is a known bug that is fixed in the next version. This bug will cause switches to not respond since the game thinks its in a certain phase of the skillshot.
Use the drop diag option from the utilities menu. This will put all the drop targets in up/down position and check to see if the switches are responding to those states. If a coil isn't resetting a drop target properly, it will let you know where is fails.

On launch, the ball makes a complete orbit and will award a skill shot if made and it will successfully leave skill shot mode if the skill shot is not made. On boot up, screen says software is 1.0.7.0

Tried the utilities>drop diagnostics and am getting a "Upper target down error" which stops the test. Oddly enough, this drop target works fine both ways in the "Coil Test Menu." Did another visual inspection of the setup under the playfield and to my eye everything looks fine. I included a photo in case there's anything glaringly obvious that I am missing with the mechanism. The drop target stays up when I manually push it as well. Could it be something with adjusting the wing nut and stop screw in the bottom of the assembly?

I tried the servo test menu and the crescent shaped piece of plastic divdewrseems to move unencumbered between the three positions. Currently Lock Left=23, Lock Mid=52 & Lock Right=79.

Many thanks to FawzmaGames & Magicchiz for reaching out with suggestions!

ChZ6n4PrTgCq2+uqRFSGeQ (resized).jpg
#1083 2 years ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Tried the utilities>drop diagnostics and am getting a "Upper target down error" which stops the test.

Your drop target switch is not registering properly. Go into the switch test and pull up on the drop target and push it down to see results.

#1084 2 years ago

I was going to buy a couple rolls from FF, but after seeing the $20 shipping for $30 of product I ditched the order. I ended up ordering the pinballpro tape that only had $3 shipping. Here's the link if anyone is interested. There is a thread with both listed as good products, but I've never used it. Will report back if it's decent.
https://pinballpro.net/shop/anti-rattle-tape-ar-1/

#1085 2 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

Your drop target switch is not registering properly. Go into the switch test and pull up on the drop target and push it down to see results.

Indeed, manually actuating that switch does nothing in switch test. Using a short piece of wire between the two used posts does register though. I’m assuming the issue can then be deduced to be a bad switch and not a bad connection elsewhere?

#1086 2 years ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Indeed, manually actuating that switch does nothing in switch test. Using a short piece of wire between the two used posts does register though. I’m assuming the issue can then be deduced to be a bad switch and not a bad connection elsewhere?

activate the droptarget switch with your finger with the PF up and listen for a click when it activates. maybe the drop mech isnt catching the switch. look at the other to see if maybe the upper drop switch isn't angled up enough.

if activating the switch with your finger doesnt do anything, then the switch is bad most likely.

#1087 2 years ago

Drop mech catches the switch fine and the switch audibly clicks when engaging. Have to jump the lugs to get it to register in switch test though, so reasonably sure I can assume it is a bum switch. Chris is sending me a new one to try.

#1088 2 years ago

Dude, you were pretty freaking irritating several months ago with your spamming the thread with Alice pictures. And judging by all of the down votes you got, I wasn't the only one who thought that.... But with your fantastic topper, game room pics and most importantly, your helpfulness to everyone, you have become one of my favorite Pinsiders.

Carry on my friend. I hope some of the other people notice as well.

#1089 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle fluorescent green plastic sling and lane guide protectors are now up on the Pinball Life website!
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0122-00[quoted image]

Ordered today! Pinball life goes on summer break today so order before 3 pm!

#1090 2 years ago

So I noticed my Dungeons and Dragons plastic pre-painted miniature of the Dire Bat has a spooky resemblance to the bat on the play field art. The Wings are just under 2 inches, and I am thinking it would look cool painted purple like the game art and placed somewhere, but wanted to see where the Hive mind here thought may be a good visual or attachment placement area for this bat.

Also for anyone that wants to add an inexpensive fun looking creature to this awesome pinball machine the mini is 2005 D&D Underdark #44 Dire Bat. You can get him under $10 shipped. Soft plastic so can take rogue ball hits with out breaking (but if you get this mini sometimes you have to adjust the wings with your hands to get them to form the shape you want as they tend to bend directly up after a decade plus of sitting on a shelf).

Also wonder if this mini was an influence on the art, or just a coincidence that they have similarities.
Dire_Bat (resized).jpg

#1091 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle fluorescent green plastic sling and lane guide protectors are now up on the Pinball Life website!
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0122-00[quoted image]

If anyone puts these in I'd like a picture please.

#1092 2 years ago

Got word my game shipped today! Looking like a strong possibility for a Friday delivery

#1093 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

If anyone puts these in I'd like a picture please.

I ordered a full set of G.I.T.D. rubbers and complete set of the glow starposts from TITAN to replace everything in ours. I picked up some florescent green, yellow and orange acrylic and would like to try my hand at some of the plastics on my CNC. Mine is a spindle type though and not laser unfortunately.

The PinballLife ones look useful. The pin already has clear protectors as an upgrade, maybe I'll just trace these and see what works overall. I too would like to see what others are doing.

I did not realize that all of the GI bulbs (RGB) are soldered directly into each their own mini PCB. I may have to try to run in a few spots using UV bulbs.

#1094 2 years ago

OK, I have come to the conclusion that this game is just not for me. I will be putting it up for sale for $7,000(firm), it's number 97. It has mirror blades, blue powder coat, glow in the dark green rubbers all around with extras, Spooky PinGulp, Shaker, Knocker, Lighted Speakers and Plastic Protectors. The game is beautiful it's just meant for a higher level pinball player and I am not that guy. I would consider a trade possibly, it would need to be a clean HUO game for me to consider a trade.

If you are in Texas and you are itching to get this game hit me up..

AC1 (resized).jpgAC2 (resized).jpgAC3 (resized).jpgAC4 (resized).jpgAC5 (resized).jpgAC6 (resized).jpg
#1095 2 years ago
Quoted from DJNOEL30:

OK, I have come to the conclusion that this game is just not for me. I will be putting it up for sale for $7,000(firm), it's number 97. It has mirror blades, blue powder coat, glow in the dark green rubbers all around with extras, Spooky PinGulp, Shaker, Knocker, Lighted Speakers and Plastic Protectors. The game is beautiful it's just meant for a higher level pinball player and I am not that guy. I would consider a trade possibly, it would need to be a clean HUO game for me to consider a trade.
If you are in Texas and you are itching to get this game hit me up..[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Butter cab?

#1096 2 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Butter cab?

No butter, sorry.

#1097 2 years ago
Quoted from DJNOEL30:

The game is beautiful it's just meant for a higher level pinball player and I am not that guy.

You could be though, if you work at it.

Try the “easy action” menu setting.

On this setting (from memory) you only have to hit one orbit shot to lock in the monster mode.

Then, you can either hit one more orbit to start, or the centre “mode” targets to open the secret passage.

This is pretty straight forward.

I had my machine on this on Easy this weekend, and guys were using the secret passage technique and getting 100-200m scores.

rd

#1098 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

If anyone puts these in I'd like a picture please.

I ordered mine and will update.

I’ll be unboxing 148 this Friday!! I’ll post a vid and a link to the inaugural stream if anyone is in to that.

#1099 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

The Secret Passage sign and crypt mods are now available (will add more information and create instructions soon).
Shop listing: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/02702-alice-cooper-secret-passage-sign-and-crypt-mods-acnc-
More information in the mod thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alice-cooper-mods-3d-tower-arch-and-more-soon-medisinyl-mods-#post-5086995
Quick clip shows a couple of the color changes for the RGB version (syncs with the speaker lights if you have them [works without the speaker lights as well, which is how mine is installed]).
Secret Passage photo is the production version (painting the wood a bit brighter than pictured previously).
Crypt is now done with a matte finish for the main body with some gloss on the skulls and gate (full gloss didn't blend as well with the game).
The crypt gate has been updated for this production version.
As a side-effect, I find it neat that the crypt lights the locked crypt ball.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So I ordered these over a week ago and have heard nothing. Anyone else having problems with this purchase?

#1100 2 years ago

I've had this happen twice this week. Not sure if this bug has been reported but cannot start Frank multiball if I am in Crypt multiball. The drop target does not go up, even though the light is flashing. However I can start Crypt multi if in Frank multiball.

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