(Topic ID: 208341)

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle Club: Enter at own risk!


By Sarge

1 year ago



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  • 1,086 posts
  • 156 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by FawzmaGames
  • Topic is favorited by 78 Pinsiders

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There are 1086 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 22.
#1051 4 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So what’s involved with tapping RGB?

Instructions will be more detailed with photos, but 4 splice connectors will be included with the RGB version in case the customer has the interactive speaker lights and would prefer to simply use those (no cutting necessary and no soldering involved in either case).

Without the existing speaker lights, a splice connector is used just for the power wire, then the three RGB wires are pushed into the factory IDC connector (again, this will be made clear in the instructions with photos, and I may add some photos to my thread as well). I installed mine this way without the speaker lighting.

Nothing truly difficult, but I know some aren't as comfortable working near the boards.

Quoted from JustEverett:

Order placed! Should have my pin here in the next week or so. Can't wait to get this crypt on there with the interactive lighting!

Much appreciated. Thank you!

RGB is the popular choice thus far.

#1052 4 days ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Instructions will be more detailed with photos, but 4 splice connectors will be included with the RGB version in case the customer has the interactive speaker lights and would prefer to simply use those (no cutting necessary and no soldering involved in either case).
Without the existing speaker lights, a splice connector is used just for the power wire, then the three RGB wires are pushed into the factory IDC connector (again, this will be made clear in the instructions with photos, and I may add some photos to my thread as well). I installed mine this way without the speaker lighting.
Nothing truly difficult, but I know some aren't as comfortable working near the boards.

Much appreciated. Thank you!
RGB is the popular choice thus far.

So if you have interactive speaker lights, it’s plug and play. Correct?

#1053 4 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So if you have interactive speaker lights, it’s plug and play. Correct?

With the speaker lights, it gives the option of splicing into them with one of these connectors pictured below. No need to cut the wires. These allow the wires already in the game to just be slipped over and the wires from the mod to be beside them. Just press down the blade with pliers and close the top.

So not quite as plug and play as I prefer my mods to be, but no soldering is involved. If it proves to be too much effort or concern for anyone with the RGB kit, instructions will note how to get any static color with the RGB kit.

The other picture shows my game without the speaker kit (speaker kit board will have extra connectors beneath the clear IDCs).

RGB wires go at the top of that IDC (IDC pushdown tool may help, but I was able to just pull them into the connector and push with a credit card [cutting off excess out the other end]) and the splice connector is connecting the black wire from the mod to the yellow wire in the game.

Hope this makes it a bit more clear. I'll always be available to answer questions.

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#1054 4 days ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

With the speaker lights, it gives the option of splicing into them with one of these connectors pictured below. No need to cut the wires. These allow the wires already in the game to just be slipped over and the wires from the mod to be beside them. Just press down the blade with pliers and close the top.
So not quite as plug and play as I prefer my mods to be, but no soldering is involved. If it proves to be too much effort or concern for anyone with the RGB kit, instructions will note how to get any static color with the RGB kit.
The other picture shows my game without the speaker kit (speaker kit board will have extra connectors beneath the clear IDCs).
RGB wires go at the top of that IDC (IDC pushdown tool may help, but I was able to just pull them into the connector and push with a credit card [cutting off excess out the other end]) and the splice connector is connecting the black wire from the mod to the yellow wire in the game.
Hope this makes it a bit more clear. I'll always be available to answer questions.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks.

Do you think the mod looks better with a static light or the RGB?

#1055 4 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Thanks.
Do you think the mod looks better with a static light or the RGB?

RGB will be green much of the time as the speaker lights are, which works for a graveyard/crypt feel (and compliments the castle color), but if I were to pick any one color, I thought Ice Blue may look the best (accents the blue crypt well and compliments Frank and the blue side art for those that have it).

Color is very subjective and it's not as clear cut for this application.

Short answer is that "I" think it looks best in Ice Blue, but I may also find it more satisfying to have the colors change with the game.

#1056 3 days ago

Received my game on Wednesday and just updated to most recent code. Game is solid and playing great out of the box. The glass rattle from the sub is horrible, turned the volume down to 1 and that helped until I can get some tape.

Biggest problem I am having is balls getting stuck on the switch coming off the upper playfield. Has anyone else had this issue? Playfield is level and pitched to 6.7

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#1057 3 days ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Received my game on Wednesday and just updated to most recent code. Game is solid and playing great out of the box. The glass rattle from the sub is horrible, turned the volume down to 1 and that helped until I can get some tape.
Biggest problem I am having is balls getting stuck on the switch coming off the upper playfield. Has anyone else had this issue? Playfield is level and pitched to 6.7[quoted image]

Get the rattle tape discussed on here. I used the entire roll and it needed it. I haven’t heard of that switch causing issues. Does it feel like its binding or otherwise indicate it may be a
“bad switch”?

#1058 3 days ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Biggest problem I am having is balls getting stuck on the switch coming off the upper playfield. Has anyone else had this issue? Playfield is level and pitched to 6.7[quoted image]

I can't help with this one but if I can add to this and help someone else; I would have balls stuck at the switch to the left of this one, the lane that exits on the rail. I looked last night and discovered that there is a black wire below the upper played that was often preventing the front of the rollover switch from going down/actuating!

#1059 3 days ago

I had this happen for the first time today during a really good Frank multiball. Ball-search seemed to just run forever after this. Is there supposed to be that large gap in the rails of the ramp?

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#1060 3 days ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

Get the rattle tape discussed on here. I used the entire roll and it needed it. I haven’t heard of that switch causing issues. Does it feel like its binding or otherwise indicate it may be a
“bad switch”?

How is this rattle tape applied?

#1061 3 days ago
Quoted from Maide:

I had this happen for the first time today during a really good Frank multiball. Ball-search seemed to just run forever after this. Is there supposed to be that large gap in the rails of the ramp?[quoted image][quoted image]

Don't think it should be that far out...mine is pretty much against the wood.

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#1062 3 days ago

Thanks, Medisinyl! It happened on the last game I was going to play before I left to go to work, so I haven't had a chance to take the glass off and fix it. Maybe the ramp is way forward.

#1063 3 days ago

I could use a little help, here, and please keep in mind that I’m one of the least technical savvy people to ever own a pin.

At the start of each game, before a ball is plunged, the game immediately says “skill shot” and awards 2 million points. Then when I put a ball in play it immediately starts crypt multiball. And then as I play it out, the game often loses track of how many balls are in play.

I’m thinking it’s an opto issue in the crypt, but the switch tests fine and the opto just past the first drop target seems to be working properly (there’s only one opto in the crypt, right?). Any other ideas of what I should check?

#1064 2 days ago

does anyone know if there are colored plastic protectors available yet>
cheers
Trevor

#1065 2 days ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

does anyone know if there are colored plastic protectors available yet>
cheers
Trevor

I was thinking about making some green ones. I will need to prototype and see how it looks.
--Scott

#1066 2 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I was thinking about making some green ones. I will need to prototype and see how it looks.
--Scott

great, please let me know how they go, I would be keen to purchase a set.
cheers
Trevor

#1067 2 days ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

great, please let me know how they go, I would be keen to purchase a set.
cheers
Trevor

I can cut some on Monday.

#1068 2 days ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

I haven’t heard of that switch causing issues. Does it feel like its binding or otherwise indicate it may be a
“bad switch”?

Does not feel like its binding up or sticking, mostly slow trickling balls get stuck but some faster moving balls have as well. going to try and adjust the angle of the arm to see if it helps

12
#1069 2 days ago

Well today was great. Acnc tournament for the Nebraska League's in Lincoln, and Omaha. Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle #18 got a great showing and event. The Backdrop hid the hallway to the game. When it was time for someone to play. They had to walk thru Frank and Alice to get to the game. After they played they got a photo op with both. Notice Alice's shirt.. Hehe. Then don't forget the cookie! Magicchiz

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#1070 2 days ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Well today was great. Acnc tournament for the Nebraska League's in Lincoln, and Omaha. Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle #18 got a great showing and event. The Backdrop hid the hallway to the game. When it was time for someone to play. They had to walk thru Frank and Alice to get to the game. After they played they got a photo op with both. Notice Alice's shirt.. Hehe. Then don't forget the cookie! Magicchiz[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is awesome.

#1071 1 day ago

True story, my boy Uther’s been attracted to this pin since it showed up.
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#1072 1 day ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:I could use a little help, here, and please keep in mind that I’m one of the least technical savvy people to ever own a pin.
At the start of each game, before a ball is plunged, the game immediately says “skill shot” and awards 2 million points. Then when I put a ball in play it immediately starts crypt multiball. And then as I play it out, the game often loses track of how many balls are in play.
I’m thinking it’s an opto issue in the crypt, but the switch tests fine and the opto just past the first drop target seems to be working properly (there’s only one opto in the crypt, right?). Any other ideas of what I should check?

Additionally, the ball won’t lock properly in the crypt (behind the first drop target) and the first drop won’t reset in the up position every time it’s supposed to. The coils and switches are all testing fine, but do I need to somehow adjust the opto behind the first drop target?
Is it necessary to remove the whole Playfield to get to it?

The game worked fine for about the first twenty games. Thanks.

#1073 19 hours ago

Finally got to play this beast and it is AWESOME!
Really enjoyed the art, screen and light show.
Just dang good fun, only issues I noticed was the rattle of the shaker motor.
The lay out is different, good feeling, unique and that upper play field is hard but a joy to play in.
The skill shot is another nice feature that I haven't seen before.
Did I mention the kick ass sound!
Congrats to those who bought one, good choice.

#1074 16 hours ago
Quoted from oldskool1969:

... only issues I noticed was the rattle of the shaker motor.

That rattle you are referring to was probably caused by the internal sub, not the shaker.

#1075 14 hours ago

I haven't been able to start Frank multiball yet, and I'm not sure if I haven't hit the right shots yet or if something else is at play. Hoping someone more experienced with this game can shed a bit of light on starting this mode.

First ball up the "Lab Lock" left inner ramp locks fine and the "Ball 1 Locked" animation plays. At this point, both "Lab Lock 2" & the "Black-eyes" on the back board start flashing, but the lab lock 2 drop target never comes up. A shot at the Vamp Stake switch below the flashing black eyes does not raise the drop target and any shot from the upper play field to that ramp simply follows the ramp back to the lower play field.

So far, I've tested the drop target in coil test and it seems to work fine; up, down, no issues. The Vampire Stake switch works fine and registers in test mode as well as inflicting damage on Dracula during Vampire mode. I also tried to artificially start Frank mode with the glass off. First ball from left locks fine. Next, when pressing the "Vamp Stake" button, I can hear a click and the "Lab Lock 2" drop target flinches a bit, but does not raise. After raising the playfield, I can not find any physical reason for the hangup - all springs and connections seem fine. Any ideas for a potential malfunction (& fix!) or an explanation of a rule I am missing would be most helpful! Loving this game!

#1076 14 hours ago

3 layers of anti-rattle tape on each side of the glass (one each right and left and another strip at the head portion) finally solved my rattle issue at volume level 2. I heard clear bass for the first time and it was wonderful.

#1077 14 hours ago

Can someone drop a link for the anti-rattle tape? Mine should arrive soon, and I want to have some ready, but I'm not really sure what to buy.

#1078 14 hours ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

Can someone drop a link for the anti-rattle tape? Mine should arrive soon, and I want to have some ready, but I'm not really sure what to buy.

https://flipperfidelity.com/sound/anti-rattle-tape.html

This is what I use on all my games.
Magicchiz

#1079 13 hours ago

Awesome! Thanks.

#1080 13 hours ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

First ball up the "Lab Lock" left inner ramp locks fine and the "Ball 1 Locked" animation plays. At this point, both "Lab Lock 2" & the "Black-eyes" on the back board start flashing, but the lab lock 2 drop target never comes up. A shot at the Vamp Stake switch below the flashing black eyes does not raise the drop target and any shot from the upper play field to that ramp simply follows the ramp back to the lower play field.

When you launch the skill shot, is the ball making a complete orbit, or is it falling back to the flipper from the right side of orbit? If the latter there is a known bug that is fixed in the next version. This bug will cause switches to not respond since the game thinks its in a certain phase of the skillshot.

Use the drop diag option from the utilities menu. This will put all the drop targets in up/down position and check to see if the switches are responding to those states. If a coil isn't resetting a drop target properly, it will let you know where is fails.

#1081 13 hours ago

Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle fluorescent green plastic sling and lane guide protectors are now up on the Pinball Life website!

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0122-00

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#1082 11 hours ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

When you launch the skill shot, is the ball making a complete orbit, or is it falling back to the flipper from the right side of orbit? If the latter there is a known bug that is fixed in the next version. This bug will cause switches to not respond since the game thinks its in a certain phase of the skillshot.
Use the drop diag option from the utilities menu. This will put all the drop targets in up/down position and check to see if the switches are responding to those states. If a coil isn't resetting a drop target properly, it will let you know where is fails.

On launch, the ball makes a complete orbit and will award a skill shot if made and it will successfully leave skill shot mode if the skill shot is not made. On boot up, screen says software is 1.0.7.0

Tried the utilities>drop diagnostics and am getting a "Upper target down error" which stops the test. Oddly enough, this drop target works fine both ways in the "Coil Test Menu." Did another visual inspection of the setup under the playfield and to my eye everything looks fine. I included a photo in case there's anything glaringly obvious that I am missing with the mechanism. The drop target stays up when I manually push it as well. Could it be something with adjusting the wing nut and stop screw in the bottom of the assembly?

I tried the servo test menu and the crescent shaped piece of plastic divdewrseems to move unencumbered between the three positions. Currently Lock Left=23, Lock Mid=52 & Lock Right=79.

Many thanks to fawzmagames & magicchiz for reaching out with suggestions!

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#1083 11 hours ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Tried the utilities>drop diagnostics and am getting a "Upper target down error" which stops the test.

Your drop target switch is not registering properly. Go into the switch test and pull up on the drop target and push it down to see results.

#1084 10 hours ago

I was going to buy a couple rolls from FF, but after seeing the $20 shipping for $30 of product I ditched the order. I ended up ordering the pinballpro tape that only had $3 shipping. Here's the link if anyone is interested. There is a thread with both listed as good products, but I've never used it. Will report back if it's decent.
https://pinballpro.net/shop/anti-rattle-tape-ar-1/

#1085 10 hours ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

Your drop target switch is not registering properly. Go into the switch test and pull up on the drop target and push it down to see results.

Indeed, manually actuating that switch does nothing in switch test. Using a short piece of wire between the two used posts does register though. I’m assuming the issue can then be deduced to be a bad switch and not a bad connection elsewhere?

#1086 9 hours ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Indeed, manually actuating that switch does nothing in switch test. Using a short piece of wire between the two used posts does register though. I’m assuming the issue can then be deduced to be a bad switch and not a bad connection elsewhere?

activate the droptarget switch with your finger with the PF up and listen for a click when it activates. maybe the drop mech isnt catching the switch. look at the other to see if maybe the upper drop switch isn't angled up enough.

if activating the switch with your finger doesnt do anything, then the switch is bad most likely.

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