Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle
Spooky Pinball, 2017I’m able to backhand the left orbit, left ramp, and secret passage from the left flipper, and the right ramp and crypt from the right flipper...I’m starting to dial in the right orbit from the left flipper, once that happens I’ll own Alice’s ass!!! It took some time to dial the game in at the perfect pitch and flipper angle, but I’m loving it now 
Quoted from mikehoss1414:I’m able to backhand the left orbit, left ramp, and secret passage from the left flipper, and the right ramp and crypt from the right flipper...I’m starting to dial in the right orbit from the left flipper, once that happens I’ll own Alice’s ass!!! It took some time to dial the game in at the perfect pitch and flipper angle, but I’m loving it now
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I can now too. Dialing in the flippers is hugely important on this game.
Noob question but how does one make these flipper adjustments , looking at my game and comparing it to the previous pics it would appear that mine may need adjusting. I definitely can not see the holes the flippers cover them.
Quoted from SharkDiver:Noob question but how does one make these flipper adjustments , looking at my game and comparing it to the previous pics it would appear that mine may need adjusting. I definitely can not see the holes the flippers cover them.
There is an allen head bolt that tightens the flipper bat post. You will see a red plastic stopper piece close to the bolt. Loosen it and adjust the bat. Then tighten down again real good.
Quoted from kciaccio:There is an allen head bolt that tightens the flipper bat post. You will see a red plastic stopper piece close to the bolt. Loosen it and adjust the bat. Then tighten down again real good.
Most importantly - Make sure you always leave 1-2mm of up/down “lash” so the flipper doesn’t bind with the bushing.
That’s the #1 mistake people do when rebuilding flippers the first few times.
Too tight = overheated coils, or worse case won’t move at all!
rd
Quoted from rotordave:Most importantly - Make sure you always leave 1-2mm of up/down “lash” so the flipper doesn’t bind with the bushing.
That’s the #1 mistake people do when rebuilding flippers the first few times.
Too tight = overheated coils, or worse case won’t move at all!
rd
Agreed.
Marco sells a tool to help with this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194
Alternatively you can follow Vid's advice and cut down an old credit card: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284684
I've been using an old gift card for mine and it works like a charm.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:Interesting. Is this what Spooky recommends or is this personal preference? I have the tips of my flippers lined up with those holes, which you can’t see with the rubber there.
[quoted image]
Every game I own the flippers are aligned as kciaccio picture shows them. Call me all wrong or alright. Well atleast the ones I've replaced or worked on.
Quoted from thirdedition:Agreed.
Marco sells a tool to help with this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194
Alternatively you can follow Vid's advice and cut down an old credit card: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284684
I've been using an old gift card for mine and it works like a charm.
Those things break if you look at then too hard. Use a credit/gift card instead.
I’ve gotta say I tried adjusting flippers both ways abs I don’t know if the benefits outweigh the negatives of losing all the shots you’ve soaked in. I feel I was kinda cool to bank hand ramps but I lost all the other things I’ve practiced for 2 years. Does anyone else feel similar?
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:I’ve gotta say I tried adjusting flippers both ways abs I don’t know if the benefits outweigh the negatives of losing all the shots you’ve soaked in. I feel I was kinda cool to bank hand ramps but I lost all the other things I’ve practiced for 2 years. Does anyone else feel similar?
Mine are stock position, stock power. I have no problems with them as they are.
But everyone is free to adjust their machine as they desire.
rd
Quoted from rotordave:Mine are stock position, stock power. I have no problems with them as they are.
But everyone is free to adjust their machine as they desire.
rd
Remind me what stock power was?
New owner and excited to get started!
A few issues out of box - right ramp adjust but Frankenstein and guillotine dont seem to function. 1.1.0.5 code.
I’d appreciate any direction or updated manual etc so I can get to enjoying this beast.
Btw - mine came with different speaker covers.
Have no idea why. Lol.
Thanks for the help
Quoted from Vino:New owner and excited to get started!
A few issues out of box - easy ramp adjust but Frankenstein and guillotine dont seem to function. I can’t seem to find the appropriate test menu to confirm. 1.1.0.5 code.
I’d appreciate any direction or to a manual etc so I can get to enjoying this beast.
Btw - mine came with different speaker covers.
Have no idea why. Lol.
Thanks for the help
[quoted image]
Recent owner as well, got those same speaker covers on mine. I dig em.
Is Frank not working at all? Like the ball(s) not locking ? I had issues with mine as well with Frankie not working as intended. Whats yours doing or not doing? With mine ball 1 wouldn't lock so the mode would never start. Trouble shooting with Spooky we found I had a 2 crossed wires on a couple of the connectors under the playfield.
Thank you. Similar issue - Frank motor works but he is stuck in up position during gameplay and no ball lock function.
Guillotine itself also seems to function but the ramp pad does not move/adj down at all to drop ball into subway.
I did find the utilities test servo adjustments but pad doesn’t respond.
Almost seems jammed.
Doubtful this game was play tested much.
Trying to diagnose balls that are getting stuck when hitting the subway access shot to the right of the left ramp and/or consistently if a mode hasn't been started by ball 3 and it autolaunches to the mode. I don't have a good sense what all is happening beneath the upper playfield as I know there are diverters in action at certain points. Are there any images, guides, or information on that? I'm assuming maybe a gate has broken or something but not sure and getting ready to disassemble to see.
AliceCooper_Playfield (resized).jpgThe secret passage shot circled in your picture does not go to the subway, it should return from the right orbit. There is a switch there the ball could be getting hung up on, try adjusting the arm of the switch from underneath no need to disassemble, there should be some posts about it, a few other people had that issue
Starting a mode on ball 3 if one hasn't been started in game is normal operation. Gives the player a chance to see a mode if they were unable to start one on their own.
Quoted from Vino:New owner and excited to get started!
Btw - mine came with different speaker covers.
Have no idea why. Lol.
Bonus!
Quoted from timmmmyboy:Trying to diagnose balls that are getting stuck when hitting the subway access shot to the right of the left ramp and/or consistently if a mode hasn't been started by ball 3 and it autolaunches to the mode. I don't have a good sense what all is happening beneath the upper playfield as I know there are diverters in action at certain points. Are there any images, guides, or information on that? I'm assuming maybe a gate has broken or something but not sure and getting ready to disassemble to see.
[quoted image]
There are 2 switches in that loop along the return through the right orbit. I'd raise the playfield up and bend the metal switch to lower it just slightly.
I had medium strength shots hit up the secret passage get caught and not return until I did this. After switch adjustment it's been rock solid.
Another thing to consider is ball magnetism, but I'd say the switch adjustment is the most important thing. That and making sure you're level and at a decent pitch.
Quoted from Sonic:No issues = no need for an MRS!
Matt
I was still hoping you'd make one to replace the problematic second frank lock switch.
I did a quick review of the posts I’ve missed since the last time I was on and didn’t see anything about this.
Spooky recently sent out updated flipper bushings to customers who requested them (they sent me way more than I requested...just another reason I love Spooky). The reason for the update was many noted how high the flippers are on R&M. Long story short Spooky sent out the updated flipper bushings that are slightly shorter, so the flippers sit closer to the playfield.
I swapped out the bushings on R&M and ACNC over the weekend, and I noticed a massive improvement in how both games played. I also think it’s worth noting that after the swap, I had to turn the lower down on all the flippers significantly. I previously bought the cooling fan kits, but I’m guessing with the reduced power needed they aren’t needed as much. Here’s a couple before and after pics plus one that shows the ball was not making good contact with the flipper rubber.
I highly recommend anyone with a Spooky game take a look at the flipper height. It’s a super easy fix that really improves gameplay.
11A32E80-BC46-401B-A6C8-FA4345F2AF3D (resized).jpeg6B90C2C4-FFE8-4054-8B67-EB17D35234E4 (resized).jpegC08E0D8A-57D9-42F3-A43F-2DFCC71B7C5A (resized).jpegE7182B43-EDAE-4A7A-9EAF-A07C84B28D82 (resized).jpegQuoted from JustEverett:I highly recommend anyone with a Spooky game take a look at the flipper height. It’s a super easy fix that really improves gameplay.
You can also buy those from PBL - or file a little off the standard Williams spec ones.
Anyone doing this, just make sure that you have good clearance under the flipper for the full range of movement.
I’ve seen too many playfields ruined with flipper drag marks ….
rd
Quoted from JustEverett:I did a quick review of the posts I’ve missed since the last time I was on and didn’t see anything about this.
Spooky recently sent out updated flipper bushings to customers who requested them (they sent me way more than I requested...just another reason I love Spooky). The reason for the update was many noted how high the flippers are on R&M. Long story short Spooky sent out the updated flipper bushings that are slightly shorter, so the flippers sit closer to the playfield.
I swapped out the bushings on R&M and ACNC over the weekend, and I noticed a massive improvement in how both games played. I also think it’s worth noting that after the swap, I had to turn the lower down on all the flippers significantly. I previously bought the cooling fan kits, but I’m guessing with the reduced power needed they aren’t needed as much. Here’s a couple before and after pics plus one that shows the ball was not making good contact with the flipper rubber.
I highly recommend anyone with a Spooky game take a look at the flipper height. It’s a super easy fix that really improves gameplay.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for sharing, didn't realize ACNC had the thinner playfield as well. I planned on doing R&M bushings soon looks like I'll be digging into Alice also.
Quoted from timmmmyboy:Trying to diagnose balls that are getting stuck when hitting the subway access shot to the right of the left ramp and/or consistently if a mode hasn't been started by ball 3 and it autolaunches to the mode. I don't have a good sense what all is happening beneath the upper playfield as I know there are diverters in action at certain points. Are there any images, guides, or information on that? I'm assuming maybe a gate has broken or something but not sure and getting ready to disassemble to see.
[quoted image]
Pretty sure that’s a normal occurrence. At least it is on mine. The magnet locks the ball from the passage and the auto launch hits it and sticks due to the magnetic effect. Normally a shake frees them up.
Quoted from JustEverett:I was still hoping you'd make one to replace the problematic second frank lock switch.
We are still looking at that - we simply got overwhelmed with R&M orders - we hadn't much time to R&D new stuff....
Matt
Quoted from damadczar:Another thing to consider is ball magnetism, but I'd say the switch adjustment is the most important thing. That and making sure you're level and at a decent pitch.
Quoted from Paulatron:Pretty sure that’s a normal occurrence. At least it is on mine. The magnet locks the ball from the passage and the auto launch hits it and sticks due to the magnetic effect. Normally a shake frees them up.
Thanks both! I honestly wasn't sure how the ball was held back there when a mode started (I knew about the code forcing a mode start on ball 3, it was just the best example I could give of a consistent need for ball search). Sometimes a shake would work but more often I had to wait for a ball search. I bent the switches along that path down to prevent the rejects occasionally on the secret path and also replaced the balls given I had not done that yet and the game gets a lot of plays which I imagine was why it was sticking to the magnet and things are looking much better.
Lighting question: what do the round "eye" inserts near the flippers tell you? Usually, they glow red, but playing last night I noticed I had only one of the eyes flashing white during a mode.
Quoted from Aeolus7:Lighting question: what do the round "eye" inserts near the flippers tell you? Usually, they glow red, but playing last night I noticed I had only one of the eyes flashing white during a mode.
It was giving you a hint what side of the playfield the shot you needed to make was on.
Quoted from Vino:New owner and excited to get started!
A few issues out of box - right ramp adjust but Frankenstein and guillotine dont seem to function. 1.1.0.5 code.
I’d appreciate any direction or updated manual etc so I can get to enjoying this beast.
Btw - mine came with different speaker covers.
Have no idea why. Lol.
Thanks for the help
[quoted image]
Have a quick look in your cabinet. You are miss the top of your guillotine. Mine was like this too. It falls off easy. Having said this, it will work just fine without this in place.
Quoted from insight75:Have a quick look in your cabinet. You are miss the top of your guillotine. Mine was like this too. It falls off easy. Having said this, it will work just fine without this in place.
Thanks for your post! Appears that I too am missing my guillotine top and had no idea. Will go hunting in cabinet but I've been in there several times over the last month so I'm not too optimistic I'll find it. Again, thanks for the heads-up!
Quoted from zebpin61:Thanks for your post! Appears that I too am missing my guillotine top and had no idea. Will go hunting in cabinet but I've been in there several times over the last month so I'm not too optimistic I'll find it. Again, thanks for the heads-up!
No problem. I didn't think mine was in there either until I was looking for it specifically.
Quoted from Aeolus7:Lighting question: what do the round "eye" inserts near the flippers tell you? Usually, they glow red, but playing last night I noticed I had only one of the eyes flashing white during a mode.
Brilliant. Sort of a mirror to Igor running different directions
Hi ACNC owners. I don't own any other Spooky games but there has been a lot of talk over on the R&M club thread about the LCD screen and upgrades. I tested out an IPS LCD screen and controller and it was a major upgrade. Someone had mentioned that they had also upgraded their TNA screen. In either case, I created some brackets to help mount the screen and controller in R&M. Maybe this also works for ACNC or other Spooky games, I don't know. But if anyone is interested I'd be happy to help figure out what works. Seems like ACNC might be similar or the same as TNA, which I am working on now.
https://pinballmods.co/rick-morty-lcd-upgrade-ips-bracket
3D (resized).jpgScreen (resized).jpgcompare (resized).jpgCompared to LCD, IPS screens are a godsend.
If no-one else steps up, I would be willing to work with you and try a few things. I have not done the previously mentioned MOD here about adding spacers and angling the screen - that WAS on my to-do list.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hi ACNC owners. I don't own any other Spooky games but there has been a lot of talk over on the R&M club thread about the LCD screen and upgrades. I tested out an IPS LCD screen and controller and it was a major upgrade. Someone had mentioned that they had also upgraded their TNA screen. In either case, I created some brackets to help mount the screen and controller in R&M. Maybe this also works for ACNC or other Spooky games, I don't know. But if anyone is interested I'd be happy to help figure out what works. Seems like ACNC might be similar or the same as TNA, which I am working on now.
https://pinballmods.co/rick-morty-lcd-upgrade-ips-bracket
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This looks very interesting. If this is an easy upgrade I would buy in a heartbeat.
Quoted from Coyote:Compared to LCD, IPS screens are a godsend.
If no-one else steps up, I would be willing to work with you and try a few things. I have not done the previously mentioned MOD here about adding spacers and angling the screen - that WAS on my to-do list.
Mostly I just need a picture of the back of the screen panel. Hopefully it's the same as TNA, in which case this should be no problem. If you want to PM one to me I can look and confirm.
Quoted from insight75:This looks very interesting. If this is an easy upgrade I would buy in a heartbeat.
My hope is that it's as plug and play as R&M is.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Mostly I just need a picture of the back of the screen panel. Hopefully it's the same as TNA, in which case this should be no problem. If you want to PM one to me I can look and confirm.
My hope is that it's as plug and play as R&M is.
Will get that to you in an hour, after breakfast.
Quoted from Coyote:Will get that to you in an hour, after breakfast.
Cool, I'll be around
Quoted from harryhoudini:Cool, I'll be around
I'm sorry, I posted them and forgot to post HERE.. :
Quoted from Coyote:I'm sorry, I posted them and forgot to post HERE.. :
https://imgur.com/a/w8nA1fN
Cool, looks good. Is the plastic protector/cover recessed into the wood panel? That's what it appears to be. I can easily make a few changes to make our brackets work for this. Are you interested in ordering the screen and controller from Amazon? I can send you the brackets for free to test.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Cool, looks good. Is the plastic protector/cover recessed into the wood panel? That's what it appears to be. I can easily make a few changes to make our brackets work for this. Are you interested in ordering the screen and controller from Amazon? I can send you the brackets for free to test.
Yes, the plastic overlay is in the wood. I did not FULLY remove the screen, as my time was short this morning. I can fully remove the screen tonight once home from the office.
Point me to the screen, will be glad to try the mounts!
Quoted from Coyote:Yes, the plastic overlay is in the wood. I did not FULLY remove the screen, as my time was short this morning. I can fully remove the screen tonight once home from the office.
Point me to the screen, will be glad to try the mounts!
No need to fully remove. I think I have what I need.
15.6" IPS LCD Screen Replacement https://amzn.to/3itT4dS
HDMI LCD Controller Board https://amzn.to/3jCR2rv
I'll send you a PM to get your address.
Quoted from xian222:Screen upgrade looks amazing. I believe it will be essential for HWN. Washed out blacks just won't do.
Looks like the same metal panel as R&M so should use the same brackets and screen/controller.
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:[quoted image][quoted image]
Works 100% - between your pics and buddy’s finally get to enjoy the game.
Glad it wasn’t the mechs. Thanks again!
For anyone interested in the IPS LCD screen there might be a discount to be had if we can place a large enough order: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ips-lcd-upgrade-interest-rampm-acnc-tna-and-more
I believe we should have an update on the custom brackets for the screen mounting soon and some pics of one owner who's done the upgrade.
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