Warman, SK
Thanks guys thought I check everywhere. Must be getting old.
(Topic ID: 208341)
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Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle
Spooky Pinball, 2017
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Oshkosh, WI
Flint
Quoted from finnflash:Is it possible we get new code before the end of the year? Noticed mine is on 1.1.0.1 and I can go to 1.1.0.2, but thought I would wait if there is a chance of new code soon.
Better had do, been too long.
Tbf probably wouldn't buy another spooky cos of this.
Let's hope
Quoted from finnflash:Is it possible we get new code before the end of the year? Noticed mine is on 1.1.0.1 and I can go to 1.1.0.2, but thought I would wait if there is a chance of new code soon.
There's ALWAYS a possibility. As with any game.
If it happens, great! Based on past history, I certainly wouldn't count on anything soon with ACNC though.
Quoted from poibug:Better had do, been too long.
Tbf probably wouldn't buy another spooky cos of this
lol!
What’s the matter with the game as it is?
Doesn’t work?
No wizard mode?
Just count yourself lucky you don’t own a Munsters. Lol
FWIW Charlie said today they are working on new code for release soon.
Hope it’ll make you happy! 
rd
87DA0EC5-C59B-4C76-9201-E258485A5FFE (resized).jpegQuoted from zacaj:Tons of bugs, many modes are unbalanced, a bunch of unimplemented settings, missing settings, broken menu buttons, multiple changes in the most recent update that people really dislike, etc?
Can’t say I dislike anything or have noticed too much busted ...
However I do admit that I probably don’t play it as much as you guys do.
I’m just happy that when I get to the Wizard mode these days it doesn’t crash like it used to.
rd
Woolgoolga
Quoted from punkin:Wizard mode. any machine, just once.
NotGunnaHappenPunkin
Sure you can! Just set it to co-op mode with 4 players! It's how I do it!! 
Quoted from finnflash:When I have a slow rolling ball, it gets hung up on this rivet. Has anyone come up with a fix for this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Me too, drives me insane. I was able to lessen how often it happened by bending the gate (a lot of the hang ups were rebounds off the rubber outside the gate, which I changed to a flipper rubber per an earlier suggestion), but it still happens often enough that I don’t even keep a tilt bob in the game so I can shake it loose once every third or fourth game.
If anyone has found a solution I would be incredibly appreciative if you’d share
Quoted from jitneystand1:Me too, drives me insane. I was able to lessen how often it happened by bending the gate (a lot of the hang ups were rebounds off the rubber outside the gate, which I changed to a flipper rubber per an earlier suggestion), but it still happens often enough that I don’t even keep a tilt bob in the game so I can shake it loose once every third or fourth game.
If anyone has found a solution I would be incredibly appreciative if you’d share
I am toying with the idea of grinding it a bit flater.
I was hoping someone with 3d printer skills would have made a cover over it to level it out.
I have it happen occasionally. I usually can't shake it loose and have to take the glass off to get it. It doesn't happen enough on mine to frustrate me though. Maybe 1 in 100 games or so.
Quoted from finnflash:When I have a slow rolling ball, it gets hung up on this rivet. Has anyone come up with a fix for this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I’ve only had it happen a couple times in probably 1000+ games. I’ve seen some games (not ACNC) with a piece of adhesive (it looks similar to those 3M Velcro-esq pads) used to push a ball off a certain area. I’m wondering if you could put a very small cut out of that (maybe 2-3 MM square) on the area of the ramp exit you circled in your second pic. I’m just wondering if it would be enough to bump the ball past the Hangul area.
Quoted from JustEverett:I’ve only had it happen a couple times in probably 1000+ games. I’ve seen some games (not ACNC) with a piece of adhesive (it looks similar to those 3M Velcro-esq pads) used to push a ball off a certain area. I’m wondering if you could put a very small cut out of that (maybe 2-3 MM square) on the area of the ramp exit you circled in your second pic. I’m just wondering if it would be enough to bump the ball past the Hangul area.
That sounds like it might work. I am going to try it tomorrow and post results.
Thanks
I never had this happen. I would just put a small piece of Mylar or two over that area. That may solve it. Also, what pitch do you guys have you're table set at?
Also, I was the one who suggested the black flipper rubber to replace the stock rubber to prevent the ball from bouncing back down the ramp on a hard shot. It totally solved that problem for me. The Titan rubber I tried did not solve it either.
I put a rubber piece that goes in kitchen cabinets on the wall near the rivet and still would get stuck. So I put a second one directly next to the first and i havent had an issue yet. I had some pretty slow shots there and they all rolled out. I have only had it a week, but it was getting stuck there a lot. Sometimes twice in 1 game.
20201219_103333 (resized).jpgQuoted from finnflash:When I have a slow rolling ball, it gets hung up on this rivet. Has anyone come up with a fix for this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine was doing this enough to be annoying and I saw the rivet and the plate as the problem. The ramp is pretty flat at that point and a slow ball up the ramp does not have the momentum to get over it. It does not shake out easily without tilting and usually required the glass off.
I removed the ramp, ground out the rivets and replaced them with countersunk screws with a nut. Also ground a slight bevel on the metal plate. Not a job for the faint hearted, as I needed to dremel into the mini playfield edge a little, under the plate to allow the nuts on the underside of the screws to sit flat and unobstructed. It's all under the plate so you don't see any of the work. Since I did this I have not had a ball hang up at the top of the ramp at all.
Had an interesting problem when I reassembled it though, as the ramp opto stopped working. Did a few tests and checked the other optos and found the wires had been soldered on to the opto in reverse at the factory. They had just plugged it in reverse on the opto board to get it working and I did not notice or expect reverse wiring when I disassembled. I fixed that also.
I had to install new ramp flaps on my Hobbit because the old ones curled up. I used the HANSON HT-174 HAND RIVET CLINCHER. There was a little flattening of the rounded top of the rivet, but it looks fine. I used the butt end of my bench vice to pound the 1/8" diameter semi-tubular rivets against. Hard wood will not work. Here is the link to the tool... https://www.amazon.com/Rivet-Clincher-Diameter-Designed-Conjunction/dp/B089745YZK/ref=sr_1_1
Quoted from finnflash:Anyone here install a knocker themselves? I installed mine and it is not doing anything in test. Is there somewhere I need to turn it on? Or is plugging in all I need?
I installed mine by hand. Did you also install the knocker expansion board?
https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-p-roc-knocker-and-shaker-expansion-board-assembly.html
Quoted from Coyote:I installed mine by hand. Did you also install the knocker expansion board?
https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-p-roc-knocker-and-shaker-expansion-board-assembly.html
I have a shaker already and assumed knocker plugged into next to it.
My board looks like that one.
Quoted from finnflash:I have a shaker already and assumed knocker plugged into next to it.
My board looks like that one.
Check in Adjustments, then - make sure Knocker is marked as installed..
Quoted from finnflash:I didnt see anything. Only knocker on at extra ball, and knocker in tests
Interesting, the setting is gone in the latest version.
So, if it's not firing in test, then check wiring. Check +48v feed, and driver wire. See if the driver wire drops to ground when it's supposed to fire, and that you're getting 48v.
Quoted from finnflash:Does this look like there is no solder? Could that be my issue?
[quoted image]
That's a cold solder joint, so.. possibly?
Quoted from finnflash:I cant solder for shit, so not sure how to correct this. I might be better off just buying another board.
I would verify that hat IS the issue before spending more money. The 16-driver boards have been known to lose a driver (transistor) here and there - so while that cold solder joint could be bad, it may not be the cause unless you've done other testing.
Quoted from finnflash:I cant solder for shit, so not sure how to correct this. I might be better off just buying another board.
Plug a basic soldering iron in. Melt some solder on the tip. Touch it to the connection to melt the original solder and transfer the new solder.
Done. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Quoted from finnflash:Does this look like there is no solder? Could that be my issue?
[quoted image]
I'd say there's a 99% chance that's your problem. That looks like it got barely any solder on it when being built. I had the same issue on one of my TNA displays when I first got it. I put a bit of solder on it and it's been fine ever since.
It's super easy to solder something like that. Basic soldering iron and a drop of solder.
Quoted from finnflash:Finally got some good solder on the board, and it works now. Thanks for all the help!
There are many great videos on YouTube on soldering. If you're going to own pinball machines it's a necessity. You can practice on all kinds of old junk boards or just with wires etc. It's pretty easy unless you're going to get into tiny surface mount stuff. But, there's videos on that too. Some practice is all you need once you understand the basics. I think it's fun! 
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Where's the Christmas code update??
Same place as the Halloween code update.
Quoted from finnflash:I cant solder for shit, so not sure how to correct this. I might be better off just buying another board.
Put the heated iron on one side of the pin and solder on the other. When it melts, remove the iron and solder. Done.
Edit. Looks like you got it. Great!
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:Same place as the Halloween code update.
The only mention of potential release dates has come from speculation in this thread. I would caution against getting any hopes up. Frankly, the longer it takes, the more likely it will include some noticeable changes! So, I’m good with the wait!
Quoted from 27dnast:The only mention of potential release dates has come from speculation in this thread. ...
Not complete speculation as Charlie stated in an October podcast that Spooky would be doing fun things with past games for Halloween.
Quoted from finnflash:Has anyone been able to get the speaker lights the same brightness?
Are you meaning.. "with each other", or the same brightness as something else?
They're both driven off of the same driver, and have the same power line run to them - so if they're not even between each other, there's something else goin' on, sadly.
Quoted from finnflash:Reseated the connections and no change. Also noticed a sling bulb that isnt the same as the other.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sling bulb is unrelated.
But with your speaker LEDs - check that they're installed the same way. Mine are brighter, like yours on the right. Another person local to me has his dimmer, like yours on the left. ONE of ours is wrong, no idea which one.
Quoted from Coyote:Sling bulb is unrelated.
But with your speaker LEDs - check that they're installed the same way. Mine are brighter, like yours on the right. Another person local to me has his dimmer, like yours on the left. ONE of ours is wrong, no idea which one.
Figured it out! On the bright speaker, the led's were facing towards the speaker cavity. On the other they were facing away. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
20201229_204346 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Outlane:All the modes have different colors except for Zombies. It's also green (Spooky should change this to orange).
So...
-Alice - Violate
-Pit Creature - Pink
-Insects - Yellow
-Igor - Light Yellow
-Ware Wolf - Purple
-Cold Ethyl -Blue
-Vampire - Red
-Zombie Green
-Frankenstein (Multi Ball) - Blueish White
-Crypt (Multi Ball) - Light Purple
I just came across this and was pretty sure tonight my Vampire mode speakers were blue. I thought that seemed wrong, but will check again tomorrow.
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