So I just unboxed a brand new spooky Alice cooper
And the lockbar/rails and coindoor giving me shocks. I changed the power lead but no diff.
I can feel some low voltage running thru the ground bread on the pin
Any help?
So I just unboxed a brand new spooky Alice cooper
And the lockbar/rails and coindoor giving me shocks. I changed the power lead but no diff.
I can feel some low voltage running thru the ground bread on the pin
Any help?
Quoted from AMSNL:So I just unboxed a brand new spooky Alice cooper
And the lockbar/rails and coindoor giving me shocks. I changed the power lead but no diff.
I can feel some low voltage running thru the ground bread on the pin
Any help?
It’s not grounded. Are you sure your outlet is properly grounded?
Either the pin is not making a proper connection to ground or your outlet is not grounded which gives the same effect on the pin.
I’m using a full grounded outlet . So maybe I have to tracé down the inline connection and work from there,?
Check the ground pin. I had this exact same problem with my Taxi machine. I would get a zap from the side rails.
See the below:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide
This was the advice that I got when it was happening to me:
If you have a voltmeter set it to AC and measure the rails from one machine to the next. Should be 0 or very close to it. If you get around 60 volts then you may have an open ground. If you get 120V then you may have a hot/neutral swapped on the power cord of one machine, Not safe. Start with the voltmeter and go from there.
Use a continuity tester and look for where the ground stops. Start at the plug and work your way back.
Well, Alice IS the Godfather of Shock Rock!
https://www.grammy.com/grammys/news/how-alice-cooper-became-godfather-shock-rock
Go to your local hardware store and get yourself an outlet ground tester.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
Plug it into the pinball machine's service outlet and see if the setup is correct. You can also check the wall outlet too while you're at it.
Oke found the problem , weird one tho. I check continuity all the way from the ground bread to the wall plug and the signal did not transfer . I found out that the plug (input) is not working correct and broken inside I think already from the factory. I need to replace that one with a new one . Should be solved today
Thank you all !
Quoted from AMSNL:Oke found the problem , weird one tho. I check continuity all the way from the ground bread to the wall plug and the signal did not transfer . I found out that the plug (input) is not working correct and broken inside I think already from the factory. I need to replace that one with a new one . Should be solved today
Thank you all !
Great news you found the problem and it was simple in the end. Today's English lesson is "ground BRAID" not bread - you eat bread!
Quoted from Redwizard000:If you have a voltmeter set it to AC and measure the rails from one machine to the next. Should be 0 or very close to it. If you get around 60 volts then you may have an open ground. If you get 120V then you may have a hot/neutral swapped on the power cord of one machine, Not safe. Start with the voltmeter and go from there.
Amsterdam is 230V, and I don't know if that is derived from a neutral and hot, or 2 hots out of phase. Regardless, my question would be is the OP touching a machine next to Alice when he feels the tingle? In theory, even if, let's say he were to touch a live wire and he was not grounded he'd feel nothing. We had this problem at an arcade when 60 old and new pins arrived for set up. Around 8 of them had broken ground, or a reversed neutral/hot. The only time we would feel the tingle was when touching the machine next to it measuring 50 volts on a DMM (that was under a no load reading). Otherwise, if you did not touch the adjacent machine it felt normal.
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