Aladdin's Castle, Won't go into gameplay mode WITH VIDEO

By djjennie

6 months ago


  • 19 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by djjennie
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0Aladdins-Castle-Work-08 (resized).jpg
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#1 6 months ago

Here's what happened:

I was away from my home for 2 months, and when I returned my aladdin's castle would no longer work. The game was played some maybe 10 games while I was gone, so it's not an oxidation problem....I did check that!!!
It was working just fine before I left, because I played it the night I left.

Here is what it is doing:

You can put credits on the game and the credit reel reads them, but when you press the start button,
the scoring reel runs 5 times you know t-t-t-t-t; and doesn't engage in a game.
I manually pressed the game over overlock relay switch to see what would happen and of course the game came on until I let go of the switch. Then the game goes dead (out of play mode)

If I hold the switch, I can get everything to work on the game and it will even go ball 1-5 (however, the balls do not advance on the backglass). But as soon as I let go, of course it immediately shuts off.

When I press the start button, it does not deduct a credit from the reel. I'm thinking the problem lies somewhere there or in the game over overlock relay switch.

FYI, I did clean the contacts on the credit reel, the reset relay, game over relay, credit and coin relays.

I have also noticed that the 1000 reel, on player 1 will not advance after the 100 reel goes past 9.

Also, I have a link to a video on youtube to hopefully show and explain what I am trying to explain below.

» YouTube video

Any information or insight you could give me that would help me fix the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,


#2 6 months ago

The machine has an incomplete reset process. You can either see why the credit unit is not subtracting a credit, or why the score motor stops running, which is preventing the completed reset process...

Check the credit unit reset solenoid (coil) circuit first. Check the following:

Coin relay switch - yellow wire and red/white wire
Credit relay switch - yellow wire and orange/blue wire
1st coin chute adjustment plug - orange/black wire (make sure plug is clean and properly seated)
Score motor switch 3B - orange/black wire and white/brown wire
Credit relay switch - white/brown wire and white wire

Make sure these switches are clean and adjusted properly.

You can also check the total play meter. Does the meter's numbers increase when you push the credit/start button?

For the score motor circuit, check the following:

Outhole relay switch - yellow wire and red/yellow wire
Bonus score relay switch - yellow wire and red/yellow wire
Out rollover relay switch -yellow wire and red/yellow wire
Aladdin's alley relay switch - yellow wire and red/yellow wire
300 point relay switch - yellow wire and red/yellow wire
Reset relay switch - white wire and red/yellow wire
Coin relay switch - white wire and red/yellow wire
2nd coin chute switch - red/white wire and yellow wire
3rd coin chute switch - white wire and red/white wire

Make sure these switches are clean and adjusted properly...

#3 6 months ago

Hi Jennie and Fred
maybe an incomplete Reset-Process. I am irritated by the fact that You Jennie "must hold-in the Game-Over-Relay". It is an Interlock-Type-Relay - these relays have TWO stable positions --- one armature is moved - it stays, stable --- some time later the other armature is moved - it stays, stable. Here (a very good site) - here --- in the video at exactly time 01:34 to 01:42 You see how an Interlock-Type relay has TWO stable positions. Please do not study the video - the video has to do with Gottlieb-AX-Relay making trouble - please ONLY look at time 01:34 to 01:42.

Toggle-off Your pin - better: Unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - then manually do this "back and forth / latch and trip" --- do this several times --- question: Does the relay stays stable in one position - as well does it stays in other position ?
When You press / move the "armature not having the nylon-ladder mounted": You TRIP the relay.
When You press / move the "armature having the nylon-ladder mounted": You LATCH the relay.
Do latch and do trip and do latch --- have it latched --- then plug-in the main power cord and toggle-on ---
Question: Does the relay TRIP (trips on its own as the TRIP-Coil gets current and pulls) ?
Question: Your description of "hold-in" means "You latch and You constantly must latch as when You let go ? (((The pin faulty does trip (on its own as the TRIP-Coil faulty gets current and pulls) )))
Please write about --- depending on Your answer(s): We look at the JPG looking at some stuff --- or we look at the JPG looking at other stuff (or I come up with another JPG). Greetings Rolf

0Aladdins-Castle-Work-07 (resized).jpg

#4 6 months ago

I just want to say thank you for responding to my post!! I've had to work all day and I am planning on trying to work on it tonight and tomorrow. I will let you know what happens.

Thanks again


#5 6 months ago

Hi Fred and Rolf,

Ok so first Fred,

All of the relays have been cleaned and reseeded and all are adjusted properly.


I did attempt to latch all of the armatures, and all remain in the trip position and will not hold in the latch position.

When I press and hold in the game over relay, it will not latch, it will stay there as long as I hold it but then when I let go, it goes back to the trip postition


#6 6 months ago

Hi Jennie
in post-5 You write "I did attempt to latch all of the armatures ...". An armature is the metal plate that moves when the coil (behind the armature) gets current - gets magnetic and pulls --- and so the armature moves. Most relays have one armature --- Your Game-Over-Relay (interlock type of relay) has two armatures --- see in the picture in the JPG in post-3 --- we can manually move / actuate the Trip-Armature - we trip the relay. And when we manually move / actuate the other - the LATCH-Armature: We latch the Game-Over-Relay.

At the moment I am only interested in the Game-Over-Relay. I asked to toggle-off the pin - better unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) and manually do TRIP - wait for a moment --- QUESTION: Does the relay stay TRIP(ped) ? Then (still have no electrical power in the pin) manually LATCH - wait for a moment --- QUESTION: Does the relay stay LATCH(ed) ?

I am interested in "mechanical fault YER or NO ?" - so: (Pin is toggled off) Does the Relay STAY tripped when You manually trip the relay ? Does the relay STAY latched when You manually latch the relay.

And when I know (100% sure) "The relay is mechanically good": Then we can plug-in, toggle-on
and look what the relay is doing. (((I suspect that the "TRIP-Coil faulty gets current and so faulty pulls means faulty constantly trips - trips - trips - but before I look at (JPG in post-3) encircled brown / encircled rosa-pink stuff : I must be 100% sure that the relay is mechanically good)))
Greetings Rolf

#7 6 months ago

Let's continue with the the question, "Why does the score motor stop in the middle of the reset process?" We can look at another circuit that sends power to the score motor, which includes a score motor switch. Check the following:

Score motor switch 1D - white wire and black/white wire

Also, does the total play meter's numbers increase when you push the credit/start button?

For the score reel issue, there might be a problem with the 9th position switch or EOS switch on the 100 point relay that is preventing the 1000 point score reel from advancing. Closely look at the switches on the 100 point relay to make sure they are adjusted properly.

#8 6 months ago

Ok i'll check it out
i'll be in the gameroom all day today and night too i usually don't go to bed till 3-4- am eastern time

#9 6 months ago

Hi Fred And Rolf,

1st Fred, Score motor switch 1D is adjusted and cleaned
When you press the start button the play meter's numbers stay the same.
I cleaned all of the eos switches on the 100 point relay and they are adjusted properly.

2nd Rolf,

Here is a link to a video so you can see the game over relay when I manually lock and trip it:

» YouTube video


#10 6 months ago

Okay, now let's see why the total play meter does not work. There are only two switches that send power to the total play meter and there's the 1st coin chute adjustment plug. For troubleshooting this, make sure the adjustment plug is in the "1 play" plug hole. Here's the switches in the total play meter circuit:

Coin relay switch - yellow wire and red/white wire
1st coin chute adjustment plug - orange/black wire
Score motor switch 3B - orange/black wire and white/brown wire

When you press the start/credit button, is the coin relay coil energizing? And does the 3B score motor switch close? Make sure the 1st coin chute adjustment plug is clean and it's making good contact when plugged into the "1 play" plug hole...

#11 6 months ago

Hi Fred,

ok so first the score motor switch is closing, the coin relay switch is energizing and the 1st coin chute adjustment plug is clean and making good contact.


#12 6 months ago


Do you have an iphone? if so, we could facetime.... to try and work together, if you are available and not too busy to do so.


#13 6 months ago

Also, FYI, this is my first EM repair (other than a flipper) so please excuse me if I am a little slow on understanding certain things.



#14 6 months ago

If you confirmed those two switches are closing at the same time and the adjustment plug is making good contact in plug jack, then this circuit is complete and it should advance the total play meter one digit. Most likely the score motor switch closes briefly and sends power to the total play meter.

Even though the switches are closing, they might not be "bridging" the power to each switch blade. Sometimes you have to "scrub" the contacts clean to make sure they are making a good connection. Also, check for broken wires at the switch stacks. Any broken wires at the total play meter?

Another way to test the circuit is to adjust those two switches so they are in the closed position. Turn off the machine and use a switch blade adjustment tool or some small needle nose pliers to close the switches so they are always closed. Adjust the switch blades at the base of the switch blade stacks. Then power on the machine. The total play meter should advance one digit and the meter should start buzzing. Then turn off the machine. This will prove the circuit is working properly. Then adjust those switches back to their original positions.

Also, check the playfield Jones plugs that plug into the main board. Turn off the machine, unplug the Jones plugs from the main board, make sure they are clean, and then plug the Jones plugs back into the main board and make sure they are properly seated...

Just to confirm, when you pushed the start/credit button with the playfield down, the ball was in the outhole?

#15 6 months ago

Hi Jennie
thanks for the video in post-9. Good - the Game-Over-Relay mechanically works fine. Here I show the Lock-Relay in an rather modern Williams-Pin - this Williams-Lock-Relay has just one switch - closed when the relay is not pulling --- open when the relay is pulling. Look on top of my JPG in post-3 --- encircled brown You see the Bally-equivalent --- wire-yellow is soldered-on and wire-green-red is soldered-on.

Locate the Lock-Relay in Your pin --- when You toggle-on the main power switch: The relay MUST pull-in and stay pulling forever --- question: Does the relay in Your pin pulls-in and stay pulling ? How many switches are on the switchstack on the relay ? One or two or how many ? Locate the Lock-Relay and its mentioned switch with wire-Yellow and wire-green-red in Your pin --- does the switch truely opens when the relay is pulling ? IF (if, if) the relay does not pull-in and therefore the switch does not open: We can make an temporary work-around by sneaking-in a stripe of paper between the contactpoints of the two switchblades --- NOW this switch is kept always open (see this stripe of paper in the JPG here). From now on (with the stripe of paper sneaked-in) YOU must TRIP the Game-Over-Relay before You toggle-on the main power switch (((in most situations the relay actually is tripped (on itself) so most of the times it is rather a quick glance at the relay and notice - Yes, it is tripped))).

Question - with the "Switch on Lock-Relay, wire-yellow / wire-green-red soldered-on at the switchblades" --- with this switch always open: Can You play - no longer the manipulation on the Game-Over-Relay needed ? Greetings Rolf

0Aladdins-Castle-Work-08 (resized).jpg

#16 6 months ago

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know, I have had a busy weekend with work due to the holiday and I will be getting back to the game probably tomorrow...

Thanks again,


#17 6 months ago

Ok sorry I didn't respond earlier. My computer crashed and I wasn't able to reply.

So I checked all the Jones plugs, cleaned and reseeded them.

The lock relay engages when you turn the game on. Meaning that the switch is open.

Still.... nothing...

Just a FYI I am going to try to work on the machine over the next couple of days but with us not knowing where Irma is headed I do not know if or what I will be able to do.

However, I will continue to work on it until then.

Fred hopefully everything is ok with you after Harvey!!


#18 6 months ago

A clue to this problem might be seen in the backglass. When the machine is going through the reset process, is the "game over" light on in the backglass?

We had some heavy rain here in Austin with some wind damage during Hurricane Harvey... Looks like Hurricane Irma will hit Miami and head north. It's looking like the storm won't be as bad on the west side of Florida... But, keep looking for storm updates... Be safe and take care...

1 week later
#19 5 months ago


Sorry that I haven't replied, hurricane Irma went right over us, we evacuated had a tree down and just got power back on, so I have to still fix this game but without power, that's hard to do. I will be getting back to it Thursday as we are in cleanup mode currently after getting our power restored so please bear with me and I will be back soon.....

Thanks again,


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