What is the right way to paint a large area to get opaque coverage and a nice smooth even surface?
Lots of light passes?
One heavy wet one?
Some other combination?
Thanks for the advice!
What is the right way to paint a large area to get opaque coverage and a nice smooth even surface?
Lots of light passes?
One heavy wet one?
Some other combination?
Thanks for the advice!
I can't speak for anyone else but doing 2-3 lighter/medium passes and heat setting worked well for me with Createx paints. It's really hard to get it all set properly if you do a really heavy spray, plus you're increasing the chance of accidentally putting a bubble in the paint layer IMO. I wouldn't want to let wet paint sit on wood without heat curing it very long, that's just me. The problem with doing a bunch of lighter passes, if you're using frisket, is that the heat will wrinkle it up and you'll have to cut a second stencil, or risk the edges of it pulling up and getting paint where you don't want it. Using a heat gun, 2 was really a practical maximum, but I did push a few to three being REAL careful with how much heat I was putting on it.
I'm not an expert by any means...I've only done the one playfield, but that's the experience I had. Here's my thread..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/crescendo-getting-funky-wit-it-customized-resto-pic-heavy
HIGHLY recommend you look up Vid's playfield restoration thread and read as much as you can stomach...if not ALL of it.
Quoted from dr_nybble:One heavy wet one?
Thats always good...but not for paint.
paint has a skin that drys first, and will not let air through to dry the underlayer.
Thats a great video. pretty much tells it.
No need to use a heat gun on acrylic paint. They will dry just fine with a hairdryer which won't be so hard on the frisket.
Here is feedback I got from Createx Technical Support:
Thank you for contacting Createx Colors. Please see the attached application guide for detailed instructions on product usage. Createx Colors, Wicked Colors, and Auto Air Colors are compatible with almost all primers and will work for your project. It should be noted, Createx Airbrush Colors are primary designed for use on fabrics, textiles, and other porous surfaces. If Createx Airbrush Colors (http://www.createxcolors.com/airbrushcolors.html) are used to paint hard surfaces, the paint will have tact after drying which makes direct taping and/or sanding difficult. Createx Airbrush Colors will also require extended drying times, after which heat must be used to cure the paint as opposed to Wicked Colors and Auto Air Colors which cure through air drying.
Createx Colors will work for your application. If you to apply the Createx Colors, you will want to apply in very light coats to build your coverage. The each coat/layer will need to air dry and be cured with heat after they are air dried. This may be done with gentle exposure to heat from using a heat gun or hair dryer, warm to touch will suffice. It should be noted, better choices for hard surfaces are the Wicked Colors (http://createxcolors.com/products/wickedcolors/index.html ) or Auto Air Colors ( http://autoaircolors.com/ ) including the AutoBorne Sealers (http://www.autoaircolors.com/paints/6001.html) as they are designed for hard surfaces. As long as the paint has something to adhere to as opposed to a glossy surface you should be able to apply light coats to the substrate. We recommend testing the entire process to ensure a successful outcome.
For further details on our AutoBorne Sealers please view the following demonstration featuring Dave Monning : http://vimeo.com/100726597 . We are receiving amazing feedback from our customers who have utilized the new AutoBorne Sealers directly to wooden items.
You also may be interested in our official Createx Colors Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Createx-Colors/141913972530957?fref=ts ) which features artist’s painting various items using Createx Colors, Wicked Colors and Auto Air Colors and AutoBorne Sealers.
Hard Surface Application Guide:
http://www.createxcolors.com/PDFs/2015-Hard-Surface-Guide_150014.pdf
Following this. Just started to practice with my cheapo cardboard freight unit and have not had much success yet.
Quoted from dsuperbee:Following this. Just started to practice with my cheapo cardboard freight unit and have not had much success yet.
What's been the issue? Aboot to start with the same set up myself.
Quoted from TheLaw:What's been the issue? Aboot to start with the same set up myself.
Getting the proper mixture down, and application for me. I am learning with cheapo acrylics and water, so I am not blowing through (pun!) expensive paint. Getting smooth coverage so far has been difficult. The brush clogs really easy. At first I thought I had the mix too thick, so watered it down a bit more. Same issue.
I got the airbrush below, but will probably end up getting the 21 dollar one
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-and-3-oz-airbrush-kit-62294.html
I have been practicing on some cheap toy cars I found at a goodwill. I first thought about getting some plastic models, but they are all 20+ bucks around here, and not looking to spend that on something I will never complete.
Quoted from dsuperbee:I got the airbrush below, but will probably end up getting the 21 dollar one
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-and-3-oz-airbrush-kit-62294.html
Gotcha, thanks. I did get that 21 but haven't had time to check it out yet. Got an old PF laying around & some frisket to test
Quoted from TheLaw:Gotcha, thanks. I did get that 21 but haven't had time to check it out yet. Got an old PF laying around & some frisket to test
I have an old FH pf, but need to have it cleared first. (Really just need to do the swap on my FH, since that one is badly worn, and wouldn't feel bad about ruining it.) Still gotta have em cleared.
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