(Topic ID: 67635)

Ah crap! I just killed JM. Literally. Here we go... no power. :(


By 27dnast

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Miknan
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 years ago

So I pulled the ribbon cables out of my JM to test something on another machine. Then I reinstalled cables.

Flipped the machine on. The DMD filled it's pixels with lights, the machine buzzed... and then: NOTHING. dead.

I took the backglass off... flipped the power on again... no signs of booting up. No lights...

I did a quick check of the fuses, they all seem to be fine.

This depressed dude needs a little hand holding.

#2 5 years ago

Had that happen the other day. One of the ribbon cables was not on properly.

#3 5 years ago

Did you get the ribbon cables back in red stripe pin one each end ? And not off a row ?

LTG : )

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you get the ribbon cables back in red stripe pin one each end ? And not off a row ?
LTG : )

Yeah what he said!

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you get the ribbon cables back in red stripe pin one each end ? And not off a row ?
LTG : )

I'm not sure. Does it matter which end the red stripe matches with?

I marked them before I pulled them out to make sure their orientation on the board would be the same... I don't think anything changed. When I turned the machine on, it had power. DMD lit up with a bunch of crazy dots, then the buzz sound followed. So I flipped it off to take a look.

I checked fuses, then took off each ribbon cable and reseated them. Flipped the power back on. Nothing happens. No lights on the boards, no sound. Completely dead

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I'm not sure. Does it matter which end the red stripe matches with?

Does it matter if you hurt your game ?

Your call.

LTG : )

#7 5 years ago

Pin 1 is where the Red stripe should be, on both ends. Don't assume it is pin 1 because it is on the left side either. Look for the number 1 on the PCB board. Also don't assume your fuses are good because they look okay. Take them out and do a continuity test with a multi-meter.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Does it matter if you hurt your game ?
Your call.
LTG : )

Of course!

#9 5 years ago

Okay... I think I may have found the issue.

The Line Fuse is blown.

In the JM manual... it says that the Line Filter for a domestic game is 8A, N.B.

The fuse I pulled out is a 250 Volt, 4 A "L"

That's all that it says on it.

My read on this is that the wrong fuse is in there? Also... can someone educate me a little on what "N.B." stands for and "L"? Should I replace with the same kind of fuse (250V, 4A L) or do I need to get something else? Some specifics would be cool..

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

My read on this is that the wrong fuse is in there? Also... can someone educate me a little on what "N.B." stands for and "L"? Should I replace with the same kind of fuse (250V, 4A L) or do I need to get something else? Some specifics would be cool..

N B - normal blow
L - no idea

Put an 8 in there, over seas in a 240 volt country it had a 4 a ( maybe two ? )

LTG : )

#11 5 years ago

Roger that!

#12 5 years ago

Alright... looks like I brought Johnny back from flatline. Thanks for all of the input.

#13 5 years ago

The ONLY way to check fuses is with a DMM and do a continuity test as mentioned above.

#14 5 years ago

I did the EXACT same thing after replacing all my ribbon cables with new ones. I put the old ones on and I had power back except the flippers didn't work at all. I reseated all connectors at least 3 times and it didn't help. I was sure I bent a pin or something. I friend who knows pinball machines 1000 x better than me looked and in ten seconds saw I had one connector off a pin or something. He reattached it and it worked.

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