Bumping this for you. Beautiful machine. Hopefully it is something simple.

Didn't you say it was resetting on you as well? Wanted to make sure as that may be helpful info.

Make sure you have latest sound ROM Version 1.1 and also try reseating any eproms on the sound board.

Yea this isn't caused by the game rom version. That won't make any difference. Sounds like your sound system has some issue, which you already know. The reason it resets on next ball is because a soft reset is done between balls on the sound system. I believe the audio runs on 12v. You might want to make sure the voltage is stable at the sound board.

As for resetting when in audio test while looping, I think that's even normal. Many of the tests have an internal timer and the game resets if in that test too long.

So when the sound goes quiet, are you sure that the cabinet speaker is not the only speaker on? That might at least point to one of the two amps being bad on the sound board. If they both go bad together then it's going to be something else ... Unless the cabinet speaker is just dead and the only ones running are the backbox lol.

Should probably also be noted that it has a flipper fidelity kit on it. At least I saw the sub so am assuming it has the backbox speakers as well. I wonder if the crossover is acting up on the sub. That thing shakes HARD with the shaker motor and maybe something came lose or a solder joint is cracked. I'm just drawing at straws here though.

The sub and backbox are on separate amps so that won't account did the backbox going quiet. Nor would the lpad going bad since the sound resets after the ball drains.

Too bad you don't have another wpc95 game to swap sound boards.

Anyone local to you to get a board from for the swap?

Does AFM and BOP use the same board? I'm doubting it but if so I'll rip it out of mine and bring it over.

No.

The audio boards have a lot of components so its hard to troubleshoot without a spare at least for me. If one of the amps overheats, this is a typical result. But then the cabinet speaker would continue on as it was. If the cabinet speaker also gets lower, it would be something else. If it were me, I'd probably buy a new wpc95 AV board. If that doesn't solve it, you can sell it for close to what you paid anyway. If that doesn't solve it, I'd be looking at the ribbon cables and the CPU board next.

Just found this - while I have a couple WPC systems I don't have the 95 in order to swap. Hopefully your new one solves the problem some folks will be happy to buy your old one to fix.

Sounds like there may be a wire touching something it shouldn't be. Try to trace the wires from the board back to there origination points. I'll help you out next time I'm over if you don't have it fixed by then. Maybe another set of eyes will help.

The fuses are wrong on the rotten dog Av boards. They should have the 1/2 amp fuses in F601 and F602 for the video. The video uses high voyage so it requiresow amps. The audio should have higher amp fuses because it runs off 12v. The same amperage fuses can be used in the audio section that comes on your stock audio board. The incorrect fuses being in the board is why it blows when the volume is high. I think they are auppose to be 3a fuses. Check your fuse chart in the back of the cabinet. Several rottendog AV boards come with the wrong fuses like this.

Ya swap the two audio fuses. Make sure the two video fuses are 1/2a. The fuses match the fuse chart in the game or manual. The board is not a redesign so it uses the same value fuses.

Great news!