(Topic ID: 271360)

AFM right gate closed and fails solenoid test

By Kevlar51

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by hoby1
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

I brought home an AFM (original) this week, and a credit dot has popped because the right gate is staying closed. I've searched the forum and found several threads pointing to one of the left switches leading up to the gate, but that unfortunately doesn't appear to be the answer because the right gate doesn't fire in solenoid test mode.

I've replaced the fuse at F118 (though it tested fine), I've resoldered the lugs on the coil, I've reseated the cables at J119 and J120--so far nothing has seemed to work.

I also took the assembly off the underside of the playfield to see if it was trying to fire and the springs were bad, but I saw no movement at all.

Should I be replacing the relay coil? ... I feel like that's never the answer ... so before I order one, what else should I be testing/checking?

Thanks!

EDIT: Solved--the issue was the wire connection between the right gate coil and the left gate coil had broken off the left gate coil.

#2 3 years ago

Q 84 on the driver board controls the right gate . Check the relay to see if the very fine windings broke off of the solder lugs.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from chad:

Q 84 on the driver board controls the right gate . Check the relay to see if the very fine windings broke off of the solder lugs.

Thanks—Windings look ok. But the transistor readings are way low compared to the rest. Replace the transistor? Coil too?

#4 3 years ago

I would try the transistor first.

#5 3 years ago

You need to use a meter to troubleshoot this. Check the resistance of the coil. You should see a low ohm reading. If the coil is good, measure for dc voltage at the coil. If the coil is good and there is voltage at the coil, you should be able to ground the tab on the transistor and the coil should fire.

Also, these type coils do not have a plunger, they just pull in a plate. If the plate is too far away from the magnet, it may not pull in. I'm sure you checked for the obvious like the linkage from the solenoid to the gate being disconnected?

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

You need to use a meter to troubleshoot this. Check the resistance of the coil. You should see a low ohm reading. If the coil is good, measure for dc voltage at the coil. If the coil is good and there is voltage at the coil, you should be able to ground the tab on the transistor and the coil should fire.
Also, these type coils do not have a plunger, they just pull in a plate. If the plate is too far away from the magnet, it may not pull in. I'm sure you checked for the obvious like the linkage from the solenoid to the gate being disconnected?

I’ll try grounding the transistor—does that entail just stretching a jumper from the tab to a ground braid?

The springs on the actuator seem fine, and the coil is getting voltage with readings similar to the left gate coil.

Thanks!

#7 3 years ago

Yes, attach a jumper to the ground braid. Then just quickly touch the other end to the tab. If you see a small spark don't be alarmed, it's normal.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Yes, attach a jumper to the ground braid. Then just quickly touch the other end to the tab. If you see a small spark don't be alarmed, it's normal.

Grounding it gave no result.

#9 3 years ago

That tells you the wiring to the coil is bad or the coil itself is. Those mini relay coils can take a bit more than a momentary touch (they are made to be on for a little bit, just like EM coils).

It's pretty common due to vibration for a wire on the coil itself to come off, it's 36 gauge wire - you can reattach. This happened to mine on a new coil after not many plays, just had to sand the enamel off and resolder it on The old coil broke a corner of the frame or I'd have just re-used that one. The spring came off a lot as well since it's pretty much slack at rest so I took a couple of spirals off it to make it taut at rest instead.

Real PITA to lean over into the cab to do this even with the PF all the way up and extended since it all sits at the tippy top of the PF.

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

That tells you the wiring to the coil is bad or the coil itself is. Those mini relay coils can take a bit more than a momentary touch (they are made to be on for a little bit, just like EM coils).
It's pretty common due to vibration for a wire on the coil itself to come off, it's 36 gauge wire - you can reattach. This happened to mine on a new coil after not many plays, just had to sand the enamel off and resolder it on The old coil broke a corner of the frame or I'd have just re-used that one. The spring came off a lot as well since it's pretty much slack at rest so I took a couple of spirals off it to make it taut at rest instead.
Real PITA to lean over into the cab to do this even with the PF all the way up and extended since it all sits at the tippy top of the PF.

Thanks--I've gone ahead and ordered a new coil to be safe. It's a $12 part and I had some other stuff I needed so it's not exactly breaking the bank. I'll check for continuity in the wiring between the board and the coil too (that'll be a tricker fix).

#11 3 years ago

Solved! And it looks like I'm going to have some spare parts on hand. Culprit was a broken solder joint on the LEFT gate coil.

I was checking continuity between the coil lugs and the board on the right gate coil. Yellow-Violet checked out OK, but my probe came up dark on Red-Violet. (Ugh--am I going to have to restring a wire?) I got lucky though and found a gnarled Red-Violet dangling not too far away from the left coil. I checked the manual and saw Red-Violet also is supposed to make its way through the left coil on its way to the board. So apparently this loose end broke off the left coil. I clipped it on, and everything tested OK for the first time.

Now it's soldered on, tests came out great, and after a few rounds (where I finally got to a mode where the right gate is supposed to be open), the credit dot is cleared!

No clue why the transistor was wonky. I'm not super comfortable with boards yet. And I'll gladly pay for the transistor and coil to have on hand as spares if it means I don't need to pull the board and fix!

Thanks for the help everyone!

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Solved! And it looks like I'm going to have some spare parts on hand. Culprit was a broken solder joint on the LEFT gate coil.
I was checking continuity between the coil lugs and the board on the right gate coil. Yellow-Violet checked out OK, but my probe came up dark on Red-Violet. (Ugh--am I going to have to restring a wire?) I got lucky though and found a gnarled Red-Violet dangling not too far away from the left coil. I checked the manual and saw Red-Violet also is supposed to make its way through the left coil on its way to the board. So apparently this loose end broke off the left coil. I clipped it on, and everything tested OK for the first time.
Now it's soldered on, tests came out great, and after a few rounds (where I finally got to a mode where the right gate is supposed to be open), the credit dot is cleared!
No clue why the transistor was wonky. I'm not super comfortable with boards yet. And I'll gladly pay for the transistor and coil to have on hand as spares if it means I don't need to pull the board and fix!
Thanks for the help everyone!

It will be the coil at the lug. check the small winding wire there as it breaks off .... Very common

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