AFM Restore: Alien Invasion

(Topic ID: 116708)

AFM Restore: Alien Invasion


By Skins

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 170 posts
  • 41 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Skins
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

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There are 170 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
13
#1 4 years ago

So I'm winding up my Flash Gordon restore so I figured I would start working on my AFM restore while I wait for my FG parts back from mike chestnut.

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Corner separation:

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Starting the gluing and bracing:

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Started sanding. It actually sanded off easily.
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Filthy pig inside.

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Boards are all packed up and ready to ship off to Clive.

#2 4 years ago

nice project

#3 4 years ago

Can't wait to see how it progresses!

#4 4 years ago

That's a perfect restoration candidate.
--
Chris Hibler - ARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#5 4 years ago

Cabinet filled, bondo and sanded. 1st coat of poly on the bottom. Sand and one more coat.image-444.jpgimage.jpg High build primer up next.

#7 4 years ago

Looks like a fun project!

-1
#8 4 years ago

Favorited!

#9 4 years ago

Thanks guys. I made a tough call last night. The bottom edge of plywood that extends past the mdf bottom was chewed up pretty bad at the front and rear. It was either, leave them chipped and gouged or fill them to make the edges nice and straight. The down side is the filler will never match the plywood in color or texture. So, that means the black paint will have to run up and around the lip to the exterior of the mdf bottom. Not optimal, but it will look like undamaged plywood when I'm done. I don't think I took before pictures but I will snap a few of filled and then of shaped and sanded.

I believe (time dependent) I'm going to chrome nearly everything bottom side so I need to get the cabinet squared away so I can get the parts off to mike chestnut.

#10 4 years ago

My dad did something similar with his Batman Forever. He then reinforced the bottom inside edge with strips of plywood screwed to the bottom. Filled it and painted it. I think it turned out well.

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#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

My dad did something similar with his Batman Forever. He then reinforced the bottom inside edge with strips of plywood screwed to the bottom. Filled it and painted it. I think it turned out well.

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Quoted from Skins:

Thanks guys. I made a tough call last night. The bottom edge of plywood that extends past the mdf bottom was chewed up pretty bad at the front and rear. It was either, leave them chipped and gouged or fill them to make the edges nice and straight. The down side is the filler will never match the plywood in color or texture. So, that means the black paint will have to run up and around the lip to the exterior of the mdf bottom. Not optimal, but it will look like undamaged plywood when I'm done. I don't think I took before pictures but I will snap a few of filled and then of shaped and sanded.

I've had to do that on each of my routed restorations. It's a pain and time consuming but looks so much better. Nice work, good luck with the rest of the restore.

1 week later
#12 4 years ago

Some more progress. Custom cut, nice new oak cleats.

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Everything primed with a high build primer.

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Tomorrow everything will be sanded baby butt smooth, then the black. Next weekend decals. Guess I need to get to finding a new playfield soon.

#13 4 years ago

Like a mirror. Smoothest cab I have ever done. Maybe 3-4 small defects I could correct but it's not worth it. The pictures are after the paint has tacked up and been drying about 2 hrs. Off tomorrow for the weather. Hopefully it's dry enough to decal tomorrow.

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#14 4 years ago

Nice work! I hope to resore one of these someday.

#15 4 years ago

ouch that looks rough at the start, know you will restore it to its former glory

#16 4 years ago

Decals on. Couple quick pics. I will get some better ones after I plow the driveway. Still need to touch up the white edges with a paint pen.

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image-82.jpgSmoothOther side smooth too
Very happy how the outside corners turned out. It will look close to factory once the white edges are touched up.
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#17 4 years ago

Wow. Wish I had the skillset to do something like that.

#18 4 years ago

Silkscreen and a few shop out decals in place. I have a few pics from my dslr but I need to download them.

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#19 4 years ago

Very nice. What are you using for paint and how are you applying it?

#20 4 years ago

Beautiful work!

#21 4 years ago

Thanks guys. It's a modified aliphatic urethane applied by a conventional hvlp

#22 4 years ago

I love seeing more and more people doing these levels of restos. glad to see people are not scared anymore. AWESOME WORK!

#23 4 years ago

Thank you.

Some high res pics. The game is dusty. Some of the pictures look like swirl marks but that was me lightly wiping it down. It need to be blown off so it doesn't scratch the finish but it's so cold outside I can't open the garage door to vent the dust out. My garage/workshop is not the best and black attracts the dust like a magnet. The cab interior needs blown out too.

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#24 4 years ago

I was going to plate everything but it's looking like a 2-3 month turn around so I started buffing some of the lesser cabinet parts. Didn't go crazy, just got rid of the dull finish. I could have kept going but I think it's good enough for what I'm looking for. image-666.jpgimage-63.jpg

#25 4 years ago

More buffed parts.

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With the plates loosely set in place, nice and shiny.

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#26 4 years ago

Beautiful work on the cabinet. I had missed the start of this thread and I am really looking forward to follow your progress. Thanks for taking the time to document it.

#27 4 years ago

Couple more buffing pics. I need to touch up the service box inside 90's but im out of dremel pads. My plan was to chrome plate all these items but nearly every plater is slammed for spring car show season and its 2-3 months turn around time. There are some gouges and pitting but all in all they shined up nicely.

Before:
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After:
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Forgot to take a before of the transformer plate.

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#28 4 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Beautiful work on the cabinet. I had missed the start of this thread and I am really looking forward to follow your progress. Thanks for taking the time to document it.

Thank you for saying so.

#29 4 years ago

Snow day = more parts buffing

Prop bar before:

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After:

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#30 4 years ago

Daaammmmnnnnn....That looks Fiiinnnnneeeeeeeee.....

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#31 4 years ago

Last of the day. I tried buffing up the metal vent screens but they weren't having any of it. Looked like shined shit. I resorted to cleaning them up and painting them a metallic nickel.

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#32 4 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Daaammmmnnnnn....That looks Fiiinnnnneeeeeeeee.....

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#33 4 years ago

Transformer brackets before:
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After:
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Transformer before:

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After:

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#34 4 years ago

Great work, thanks for sharing your pics. It's the small details like the transformer brackets which make all the difference to the end product. Yours is going to be one very nice AFM once its finished.

#35 4 years ago

Did you do all this with a Dremel?
Post a pic of the Dremel tool and wheel. Thats impressive. I'll need to copy your method.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#36 4 years ago

I use the dremel to get into places the 6" bench buffer can't. I find the 6" is more practical for most of the smaller pinball parts. I have an 8" but rarely use it.

Backbox mounting board. Nice and shiny!

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#37 4 years ago

Cabinet coming back together. Ground braid in. I still need to solder the lugs to them. Leg plates, service box and transformer installed. Couple more shop out decals applied too. More hardware tomorrow.

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#38 4 years ago

It's coming along nicely. Keep up the good work

#39 4 years ago

Thanks Mike. That coming from you means a lot. Your restore threads inspired the buffing stuff.

#40 4 years ago

Today's work has started. Nice, brand-spanking new coin door.

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#41 4 years ago

Speaking of buffing...

Before and after pivot bushings

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Prop bar holder

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Cash box hasp

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#42 4 years ago

How'd that cigar + naptha combo work out?

What compound are you using on the metal? I use this stuff called Artisan Metal Polish from Restomotive Labs (same guys that make POR-15) but I don't think they make it anymore.

Game looks fantastic by the way! Keep it coming...

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from bjsilverballs:

How'd that cigar + naptha combo work out?
What compound are you using on the metal? I use this stuff called Artisan Metal Polish from Restomotive Labs (same guys that make POR-15) but I don't think they make it anymore.
Game looks fantastic by the way! Keep it coming...

Ha! My 3 vises, pins, cigars and huffing solvents, lol.

I use Sears black to cut and green to polish.

Cash box bracket before:

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After:
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#44 4 years ago

Today's progress. Done for the day.

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I went with a red start button. I never understood the green factory one.

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#45 4 years ago

Did you try to buff your thumb? ouch

I bought a good set of mechanic glove and full face shield for buffing.Scary process.

AFM looks great!

#46 4 years ago

Haha all in the name of restoration.

...and the buffing continues. Buffed the backbox mounting board.

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I also picked up a very important part. A Ron Kruzeman cleared mirco playfield.

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#47 4 years ago

Looking great love that kruzman pf

#48 4 years ago

Everything looks stunning. A mounting board like this I have never seen before!

#49 4 years ago

Small update. Got some shiny powder coated parts back. Hopefully I can get the put on this weekend.

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3 weeks later
#50 3 years ago

Just got word from Clive that my boards are done. It's amazing what's wrong with a working game. Clive's report:

Your Williams/Bally Attack from Mars boards have now been repaired, updated and are 100% functional.

Work performed (all new parts):

WPC-95 Power Driver board: Removed burning P600D rectifier diodes and installed 8x zero ohm resistors in General Ilumination circuit. Fuses removed and checked, -- 2x 4 amp (F107, F114) and 6.3 amp (F108) slow blow fuses due to incorrect ratings. Capacitors measured. Replaced leaky capacitors; -- 2x 100uf/50v/105c (C1, C40) and 2x 100uf.100v (C22, C23). Remaining filter capacitors measured and tested fine. ULN2803A IC(U3) and 18-pin socket replaced as standard due to high failure rate. J101, J103, J104, J105 and J106 headers upgraded to high temperature. Capacitors, fuse holders and various areas around board had solder reflowed to fix suspect solder joints. All transistors curve-trace. Board cleaned-up. Two-tier full functional testing:

WPC-95 CPU board, Attack from Mars (software version 1.0)): All socketed ICs removed and checked. Upgraded game ROM version 1.0 (4 M-bit 27c040) to version 1.13 (8 M-bit NOS 27C080). Removed battery holder and installed 3AA remote battery pack system. J210 upgraded to high temperature. C73 (47uf/63v/105c) and C31 (100uf/25v/105c) upgraded to 105 degree parts). Various areas around board had solder reflowed to fix suspect solder joints. Two-tier full functional testing:

WPC-95 Audio Visual board, Attack from Mars (S2 software version 1.0). Capacitors out of tolerance. Prior repairs): Sound ROMs removed and internal data verified (Vcc +'/- 0.25v). S2 Sound ROM upgraded to version 1.1 software (NOS 27C080 EPROM). S3 and S4 ROMs cleaned and labeled. Replaced corroding TL084 Quad Op-Amp IC at U1 and installed 14-pin machined IC socket. 2x 2n4742a zener diodes (D3, D5). 4x 47k 1/2 watt resistors (R25, R26, R27, R29). 3x 22uf/50v/105c capacitors (C48, C52, C73). 2x 150uf/160v/105c capacitors (C28, C42). 100uf/25v/105c capacitor (C35). 4x 1uf/50v capacitors (C38, C39, C43, C44). 4.7uf/63v/105c (C18) and 2x 10,000uf/35v (C36, C37) capacitors. Reflow Static RAM ICs and Sound ROM sockets. Reinforced 3x traces in high voltage section. Checked ASIC and DSP solder integrity. Board cleaned-up. Two-tier full functional testing:

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