(Topic ID: 250415)

AFM Mirco Playfield (gone over by Kruzman) Swap


By dmacy

18 days ago



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D54DDACD-CBD2-432E-BA04-FB24DE696BB7 (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
FDE29A60-56AB-4A2F-A65F-DE7AB2A97F68 (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
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E9074FF8-EECE-485D-AF0A-96DFFD5B52B2 (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
61B85765-D980-45D0-BEBE-A11AD10873E9 (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
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E3E170D0-6BC3-4E6B-BFF9-C52793861E5C (resized).jpeg (© Nutty 5.0)
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#1 18 days ago

Documenting my first back to back of the same title: AFM. It’s another Mirco but this one has been gone over by kruzman I’ve shared in other posts about my TAF having an IPB playfield he did that I swapped in years back. It still is holding up great.

On this swap, I will use his install kit and plan to document using the kit. It’s a no brainer if you’re going to swap any clearcoated playfield. Mars and you knead this! I’m confident with the dimples being correct after swapping the other Mirco AFM playfield: almost all were dead on.

It will get the usual treatment with all the wear parts replaced with new: plastics, scoop weldment, ramps, sleeves, coil wrappers, etc. This is a clean playfield so we aren’t expecting surprises. LED’s, Bill Ung mod, and some other tasteful mods are in the parts pile to go on.
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#2 17 days ago

Tear down part #1. This is the normal stuff to get the playfield on the rotisserie.

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#3 17 days ago

Topside tear down #2:

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#4 17 days ago

Top side tear down pics #3:

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#5 17 days ago

Top side tear down #4:
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#6 17 days ago

Top side tear down #5:
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#7 17 days ago

Top side tear down #6:

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#8 17 days ago

Top side tear down #7:

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#9 17 days ago

Top side final tear down pics #8. Peek-a-boo LED found hiding in trough.

Playfield post heights measured.

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#10 17 days ago

Top side stripped. Few of the hex posts showing their locations.

Date stamps of the playfield.

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#11 17 days ago

Here is the new parts pile.

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#12 17 days ago

Bottom side tear down part #1. Maria did the flip test. Hopefully she wasn’t the one to put the coils in backwards and missed the diode.
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#13 17 days ago

Bottom side tear down part #2:

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#14 17 days ago

Bottom side tear down part #3:

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#15 17 days ago

Bottom side tear down part #4:

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#16 17 days ago

Bottom side tear down final part #5:

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#17 16 days ago

New playfield strapped in. Clean and a coat of wax. It’s a beaut Clark. Pictures so do not do it justice.

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There’s 6 8-32 T nuts on the top side. Here’s the locations.
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#18 16 days ago

That is a damn sexy playfield.

Subscribed!

#19 16 days ago

Did an AFM swap 2x now. Second one was with a Mirco PF and had zero issues. Still looks amazing.

GL on the swap! If you've done TAF, AFM is a figurative walk in the park.

#20 14 days ago

Starting the prep on some top side hardware. Using kruzman kit. These are the 2 bits I’ve been using the most but you may find better ones he includes to suit your needs.

I like the pin point one to start the hole and follow up with the eggplant (this is my technical term!) one until you get the opening larger than the screw threads. I try and go larger so there’s room for the glue to take up space.

This one needs opened up further before I drop some glue in.

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#21 14 days ago

Once the hole is opened up enough, you move to the drill bit. Ron includes a nice drill gauge set. It comes in handy for much more than his kit. I have plastic ones but this one is metal and much better.

Once the bit is selected, I run the drill backwards. It’s more prevention to avoid picking up part of the clear (and chipping) but if you went larger and gave the glue time to dry, it shouldn’t be an issue. On this one, it’s already predrilled so I’m not needing to do much other making sure I’m drilling just until the wood starts. I’d use a drill stop normally, but running the bit backwards doesn’t really “drill”. Just trying to prep the hole so it can accept a screw without worry of lifting clearcoat.

Blow the dust out with whatever you like. I use canned air (yeah it has bitterant so no whipped cream canister whippet fun here) to clear each hole out but compressed air or whatever other method works for you is just fine.

Ron includes syringes to put the glue into the lip/holes. They work great and gives a precise control. I have a bunch of these cheap plastic pipettes I like using but you have to be really careful using them. Just a drop to make the white turn clear on the edge. Repeat if you can’t get it on one drop.

It will look clear when the glue is there. Again be careful and be prepared in advance to clean up extra glue!

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#22 12 days ago

Mechanism assemblies Part 1. Sling wear parts getting replaced. They’re not horrible but not worth slapping in sloppy parts. Once armature is pretty scarred and being replaced.

Pop bumpers have some random replacement parts.

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#23 12 days ago

Mechanism assemblies Part 2. Scoop has been repaired, welded, and cracked again. New scoop being installed.

73F76169-A86C-4284-BCAD-86FB4A2F6FF3 (resized).jpeg1EE662D9-1653-4B50-84A0-FC90BD07504E (resized).jpeg47C41B60-7B56-4A2F-B4CA-C08C50BDCD91 (resized).jpegA84E8EB8-E486-4C1B-9CEA-123EB136314E (resized).jpeg3D9412CF-DB41-4F0E-8E4D-EF0E6BA72C99 (resized).jpegDE2EBB56-BE81-4116-B3DA-0B60C20F15C7 (resized).jpeg8FEE454D-A245-4983-82DD-AB3D2F117B1C (resized).jpeg8E113A63-C845-41B4-A51C-70DF97979841 (resized).jpeg9AA947C3-D836-4BDA-B4F7-BB0F5EADB41F (resized).jpeg9F15B8D1-8C10-4934-986D-E0671A73F314 (resized).jpeg57B03643-3505-469A-8D66-0CBAAC049B1E (resized).jpegF67E637C-C7B5-4841-9C5C-0217F173D0D3 (resized).jpeg
#24 12 days ago

Lawdy be! Seeing a Kruzman playfield gives me stirrings in my nether regions!

#25 12 days ago

I just found this thread this morning. I would like to link it to people to it when i try to explain my install kit.
If you have used the kit, I am interested in feedback in which bits you liked and used the most, and which you didnt. Much has to do with different pfs and different eras tend to use. Since I am not a pro at pf swaps (I hope to be in the near future) the info and feedback I get from others helps me very much.

I want to thank the poster for being so thorough with the explanation in this thread. I have wanted to install t nuts for my customers after I clear a pf, and now I know what size to use on the top side of the afm. The other thing customers voice a lot of concern with it the pop bumper lug nail screws that the thread poster did perfectly. That alone was the biggest reason for making the kit for my customers. Its really easy to screw up if those are full of clear (I get a lot of stock pfs here to clear and the roll over stars and the pop bumper lug holes are clogged with clear). On the MB pf there are 4 holes in the center right side that are similar. Before the kit I was having a real problem not only getting them in without breaking up the clear, but also getting them to sit flush

I dont know if you keep track, but could you estimate how many hours a pf swap takes you? or how long past projects have taken? How many have you done? Are you still learning better ways to do it (better results, faster, more efficient). I am going to do a pf swap this winter (I have a girlfriend who is a great mechanical mind, and helper) I have the choice of amazing spiderman, or bally playboy. The problem with spiderman is the gottleib pfs are so dang big (Though that may make so part of the job easier, its hard on my back)

So, I realize it takes a bunch of time to post all of your pics and explanations, but people really learn from it. Hopefully you look at it as a contribution to society. A very positive thing. Good charity. cheers, rk

#26 12 days ago

Subscribed. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

#27 11 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

I just found this thread this morning. I would like to link it to people to it when i try to explain my install kit.
If you have used the kit, I am interested in feedback in which bits you liked and used the most, and which you didnt. Much has to do with different pfs and different eras tend to use. Since I am not a pro at pf swaps (I hope to be in the near future) the info and feedback I get from others helps me very much.
I want to thank the poster for being so thorough with the explanation in this thread. I have wanted to install t nuts for my customers after I clear a pf, and now I know what size to use on the top side of the afm. The other thing customers voice a lot of concern with it the pop bumper lug nail screws that the thread poster did perfectly. That alone was the biggest reason for making the kit for my customers. Its really easy to screw up if those are full of clear (I get a lot of stock pfs here to clear and the roll over stars and the pop bumper lug holes are clogged with clear). On the MB pf there are 4 holes in the center right side that are similar. Before the kit I was having a real problem not only getting them in without breaking up the clear, but also getting them to sit flush
I dont know if you keep track, but could you estimate how many hours a pf swap takes you? or how long past projects have taken? How many have you done? Are you still learning better ways to do it (better results, faster, more efficient). I am going to do a pf swap this winter (I have a girlfriend who is a great mechanical mind, and helper) I have the choice of amazing spiderman, or bally playboy. The problem with spiderman is the gottleib pfs are so dang big (Though that may make so part of the job easier, its hard on my back)
So, I realize it takes a bunch of time to post all of your pics and explanations, but people really learn from it. Hopefully you look at it as a contribution to society. A very positive thing. Good charity. cheers, rk

Thanks Ron and it really looks great! I don’t spend near as much time up close and personal with a playfield like you do, but I’ve seen enough for many hours in a swap to see there’s a big difference in what comes from “factory” vs “aftermarket” and it’s much like a quality show paint job vs a nice factory job. Most people probably won’t notice, but if you look it’s night and day.

The kit works great and I have my favorite bits. Attached the three I use 95% of the time and you can see I sharpen them every few holes so it gets used.

Good call about the pop studs. I didn’t cover it much on how I do them on this one but yes you’re dead on that’s pretty critical as the brackets get snugged down, if you don’t prep the holes, there’s a high chance of lifting clear there. I know I have seen factory playfields that have those studs buried 1/4 of the way into the playfield. Maybe the workers used 1/2” impacts on some?!

About the swaps I’ve done: about 15 full swaps and time has varied on all. I’m much more efficient this past year. I’ve done enough now that I’m prepping for a few moves ahead. I’m still learning from everyone here and RGP past and present. The part I hate and put off is soldering. Time spent is usually 120-160 hours. But this will be shorter if you can dedicate time in large chunks which I can’t. If your GF is good mechanically, let her eat. I’m not super familiar with those titles to know the details, but let her have a go. Worst case is you find she’s really got a talent and enjoys it (I do and it’s a solace from my day job. I used to be a blue collar working guy but not do much so I love this stuff to keep me feeling like i used to: hands on. I miss wrenching on cars so much so this is the next best.). I hope this rant is of some value. You know the drill: pics, label, take your time.

Helping out others is a huge deal. I’ve learned so much from locals, here, RGP, @bryan_kelly , @beelzeboob, Clay @cfh Lloyd @ltg , @high_end_pins , etc I’m losing track. Heck, I’m listening to TOPCASTS on my shitty commutes home. How did I miss them over the years? Thanks @mbaumle for recommending. I’m at #19. It’s interesting after 10-12 years after these interviews. The Tradeau interview was odd in light of recent events. Thank you all here

Updated pics show the diverter and how I prepped this early. See my last one Atilla here:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attilla-from-mars-another-afm-playfield-swap#post-5129564
Same method but some pics showing my steps. Locked it in with Ron’s kit at the end. Ready to go.

84C88954-AD1C-457E-8AAB-7860D03488CF (resized).jpeg43BFF5BA-94A3-476B-AE83-96E3BEE4F0FA (resized).jpeg5C1A4EB0-409E-4A4F-9C24-FD5C7DB3D67D (resized).jpeg736C8ED6-EBA5-43F6-BF27-34F3F503EEA9 (resized).jpeg8FD20050-5B1C-43A3-B5CF-C948A251E524 (resized).jpegEAFBEECE-899A-4745-B048-4154606D2979 (resized).jpegD3DBC0E8-18B2-4464-BE53-58D92044BE23 (resized).jpeg0195BCBE-075B-4F80-B8C8-2549D18CEBED (resized).jpeg76A9C518-4DF9-4254-84D9-BFA1E3E437D6 (resized).jpeg98EB9F2F-2D04-4BFE-B7AD-649AA2F2B432 (resized).jpeg42341210-E3DF-44B1-8071-35AD0BD7E885 (resized).jpeg
#28 11 days ago

Posts (metal and plastic) are tumbled and installed. This one gets the Pinbits yellow fluorescent plastic protectors. Rubbers installed from titan_pinball

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#29 11 days ago

Ha! in the last pic I see you have a fat lazy helper.

You are really making short work of this job. It reminds me that afm is a pretty simple design relative to the other stuff of the times (although the ramps make it much deeper). I worked at a bar when this game came out, and it didn't take long for people who were too cool for pinball to start playing. Starting at 9 to 10 pm that game was being played with quarters lined up till close at 2. I was never there in the day to see what the gross take was, but I was so addicted that I would go to my place of employment on my day off to play that game. That's a bold statement.

Pinball is so different when you have to put your hard earned quarters in, even when you play terrible. I know now that alcohol made a big difference, but when I had a great game it was super exciting. To this day when I think of the game AFM, I automatically think of cold miller high life in a bottle. Its not there when I see just a pf, but when I see that game I want a beer!
Totally off subject, but I think there may be one other pinhead who has had issues.

I am enjoying watching the progress. Everything looks flawless! keep up the great work.

#30 11 days ago

Thanks for documenting this! AFM is the one and only machine I have done a playfield swap on. In one of your tear down pics you can see that the small metal guide under the Cow ramp is on backwards. That little metal guide is important to help bridge the gap between the ramp and the wireform. I'm sure you already know this. Just pointing out for anyone newer who wants to tackle this immense job.

#31 11 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Thanks for documenting this! AFM is the one and only machine I have done a playfield swap on. In one of your tear down pics you can see that the small metal guide under the Cow ramp is on backwards. That little metal guide is important to help bridge the gap between the ramp and the wireform. I'm sure you already know this. Just pointing out for anyone newer who wants to tackle this immense job.

Actually, that is a huge help. I need to check which one and make sure I don't repeat it!

#32 10 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Thanks for documenting this! AFM is the one and only machine I have done a playfield swap on. In one of your tear down pics you can see that the small metal guide under the Cow ramp is on backwards. That little metal guide is important to help bridge the gap between the ramp and the wireform. I'm sure you already know this. Just pointing out for anyone newer who wants to tackle this immense job.

Is this the one that is backwards? I’m finding different orientations online. Trying to find what’s correct.

FFC6908C-F2A3-4ACE-BCAD-093DB1830374 (resized).jpeg
#33 10 days ago

No, it's the little guide that attaches to the exit of the Cow Ramp. Here is a picture of mine.

20190907_101140 (resized).jpg
#34 10 days ago

Thank you! It was flat out missing on the other one I swapped.

#35 10 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Thanks Ron and it really looks great! I don’t spend near as much time up close and personal with a playfield like you do, but I’ve seen enough for many hours in a swap to see there’s a big difference in what comes from “factory” vs “aftermarket” and it’s much like a quality show paint job vs a nice factory job. Most people probably won’t notice, but if you look it’s night and day.
The kit works great and I have my favorite bits. Attached the three I use 95% of the time and you can see I sharpen them every few holes so it gets used.
Good call about the pop studs. I didn’t cover it much on how I do them on this one but yes you’re dead on that’s pretty critical as the brackets get snugged down, if you don’t prep the holes, there’s a high chance of lifting clear there. I know I have seen factory playfields that have those studs buried 1/4 of the way into the playfield. Maybe the workers used 1/2” impacts on some?!
About the swaps I’ve done: about 15 full swaps and time has varied on all. I’m much more efficient this past year. I’ve done enough now that I’m prepping for a few moves ahead. I’m still learning from everyone here and RGP past and present. The part I hate and put off is soldering. Time spent is usually 120-160 hours. But this will be shorter if you can dedicate time in large chunks which I can’t. If your GF is good mechanically, let her eat. I’m not super familiar with those titles to know the details, but let her have a go. Worst case is you find she’s really got a talent and enjoys it (I do and it’s a solace from my day job. I used to be a blue collar working guy but not do much so I love this stuff to keep me feeling like i used to: hands on. I miss wrenching on cars so much so this is the next best.). I hope this rant is of some value. You know the drill: pics, label, take your time.
Helping out others is a huge deal. I’ve learned so much from locals, here, RGP, @bryan_kelly , @beelzeboob, Clay @cfh Lloyd @ltg , @high_end_pins , etc I’m losing track. Heck, I’m listening to TOPCASTS on my shitty commutes home. How did I miss them over the years? Thanks @mbaumle for recommending. I’m at #19. It’s interesting after 10-12 years after these interviews. The Tradeau interview was odd in light of recent events. Thank you all here
Updated pics show the diverter and how I prepped this early. See my last one Atilla here:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attilla-from-mars-another-afm-playfield-swap#post-5129564
Same method but some pics showing my steps. Locked it in with Ron’s kit at the end. Ready to go.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So how do you use that orange hand tool? Do you just stick it in the hole - - that appears to be too small - - and ream it out? Hand twisting?

Was that orange tool part of Kruzman's kit?

I did a Funhouse PF swap and some of the post holes were a tad too small. So very interested in this step.

Thanks, great thread.

#36 10 days ago

Also, what is the function of the super glue? Is it cosmetic because you are grinding away a small amount of clearcoat?

Once you screw the hex screw into the hole (where you have super glued) won't the super glue be "voided" by the screw?

#37 10 days ago
Quoted from Elicash:

So how do you use that orange hand tool? Do you just stick it in the hole - - that appears to be too small - - and ream it out? Hand twisting?
Was that orange tool part of Kruzman's kit?
I did a Funhouse PF swap and some of the post holes were a tad too small. So very interested in this step.
Thanks, great thread.

The orange tool is a hand countersink tool. I like it because it goes pretty slow compared to a drill. It’s likely not that handy for most people, but it works for me. Yes, just hand twist. And no, it’s not in Kruzman’s kit. I did went rogue lol. FH is why I started using this tool for the same reasons. All the holes were two small on the ones I’ve done. I’d run this tool through first and then drill. You can run drill bits backwards too for a similar effect, but I’ve still chipped up clear on occasion this way.

Quoted from Elicash:

Also, what is the function of the super glue? Is it cosmetic because you are grinding away a small amount of clearcoat?
Once you screw the hex screw into the hole (where you have super glued) won't the super glue be "voided" by the screw?

Ron or others can explain better but the glue holds down the clear after you open a hole up. Otherwise a screw threading in will actually take the clear up in a sheet-like way and can make a big mess especially if it’s a wire guide that’s not covered by a post. It gets in under the clear. You’re right that the glue isn’t really voided but it’s not to fill the hole but to get the at the edges of the hole “holding” down the clear.

#38 10 days ago

Metals are cleaned, grained and installed. Huge thanks to @kstairmantis to shipping out his AFM parts so fast. Ordered Wednesday and at my house today/Saturday. We installed his scoops, trough, protectors, and support rails.

23FC4B20-925A-4B82-ACC5-627CA0B62608 (resized).jpeg9E396DCE-9A90-4B05-A65C-A98E470A2B7C (resized).jpeg6A5B9CE2-BFDD-4C99-9FC8-C2CB7E7DDC19 (resized).jpeg344A3801-5066-4B9B-9528-419D4BDCECDC (resized).jpeg0B59567A-3892-495F-8EBA-AD3565C4A45D (resized).jpeg3BFF9E35-A256-40EA-9922-217AFBAB09DE (resized).jpeg8AFC61CD-C910-4408-A6CA-EA32DF3ADD0F (resized).jpeg54F18EE8-23ED-4315-B69D-D767274CF172 (resized).jpeg49254984-4EA2-4C8F-A7B4-6259D6FD8501 (resized).jpegB783CE11-64E6-4664-9A24-53D22D1A2961 (resized).jpeg
#39 10 days ago

Here’s the trough and why it was replaced. Mantis are stainless steel. You will need to swap over your one way wire form gate.

Underside progress: light boards, opto board and motor board.

B006ABB2-B18B-4044-A87B-C21822CA7B31 (resized).jpeg7DA4F4C3-EEF4-4733-A44B-90C77644EE92 (resized).jpeg9EC857C5-4A9A-4304-B87C-A741BC6BC1CE (resized).jpeg3FE1223B-8247-4B5A-A251-53DC156164CB (resized).jpeg
#40 9 days ago

Here’s the short post locations (9 total) that this one came with.

0EC6DD1F-5C6B-4B75-876A-027C22DD27B7 (resized).jpeg
#41 8 days ago

Mother ship disassembly. Mostly just a cleaning and rebuild as it's in good condition with new board already installed. The strobe clear plastic will be new.
IMG_8915 (resized).JPGIMG_8916 (resized).JPGIMG_8917 (resized).JPG

#42 8 days ago

Flipper mechs are apart for cleaning and rebuild. Wire management has been cleaned and re-assembled. Just need correctly installed. I did straighten out a few bent ones.

IMG_8964 (resized).JPGIMG_8987 (resized).JPG
#43 7 days ago

Wire management installed. All new sling parts installed. New Martian targets installed.
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#44 7 days ago

Installed new shooter lane ramp flap. Drilled out the old rivets first. Then regrained, then riveted on new flap.

1/8” rivet with backup washer. Mylar under support of the shooter lane. Another was out under where the ramp flap contacts the playfield.

5BFEEE0C-92DF-4E29-812D-1DCA83AFC573 (resized).jpeg4DD63AFE-5123-46C7-81DD-5FEEE12095D7 (resized).jpeg84BF888E-10BC-4A1D-97FA-82A9BE6B6D14 (resized).jpeg8F1DE236-F3DD-4EEB-994D-D5B8BE0BECD3 (resized).jpegBB5D41A3-D096-41C4-B1D4-66400E8C91A3 (resized).jpeg1578FF99-AB4F-40C1-AA40-8275BD1E41B7 (resized).jpeg2C598DB7-D5B1-46F7-9912-2CA68B222856 (resized).jpegB0594696-58B3-43BD-A06A-2830B3120ED9 (resized).jpegFD8C67FB-B5B8-48CE-8ABF-01B338C62CD5 (resized).jpeg
#45 6 days ago

I saw this in person last night and I have to say the pictures don't quite do it justice. This thing looks great. dmacy does incredible work and kruzman PF is insane.

#46 5 days ago

Thanks. I’m just a dumb hack that likes to screw brackets to playfields. Anyone can screw parts to a playfield but guys like kruzman are the ones that make them nice.

#47 5 days ago

Using customer supplied upgraded troughs. These are pretty cool using a slider that will keep balls from falling when lifting playfield.
9544DE48-64B7-4C01-8FFE-2D7A1BB7F9BC (resized).jpegB9249E0D-6412-4014-A4F1-C7547648E21F (resized).jpeg

#48 23 hours ago

Back at it. I made some changes regarding lane guide screws and t nuts. The 6 (3 per side) are 8-32 originally. This title doesn’t use 6-32’s. Decided to change to 6-32 for these to allow for a little more adjustment for flipper alignment. It should give adjustment to the yellow plastic for better alignment too. New guides and plastics used.

Swapped in the supplied UFO Pinball mothership brackets.

1B763A71-B3D7-4739-BADD-1CFB7BB22A32 (resized).jpeg8B699A25-AD7F-4313-A04E-0FD50611D4C4 (resized).jpeg11CDACB8-3E39-457B-BFFE-D79EDA1049E7 (resized).jpeg8D0B05A7-D4C1-463B-9D53-E65FA42CBA3B (resized).jpegF9C81CCF-0B6B-4896-B8EE-A33F8157B182 (resized).jpegE3E170D0-6BC3-4E6B-BFF9-C52793861E5C (resized).jpeg2753F23F-F2D9-4DC2-9584-2CA3CDEF73DA (resized).jpeg6B799832-F23F-41C7-9221-669B967D8876 (resized).jpeg
#49 23 hours ago

Ramp teardown. Before pics. They were due for replacement. New ramps and entry guides will be installed. Hardware looks pretty nasty. If they don’t clean up they’ll get new. Obviously new switches on ramps and throughout.
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