I had enough for a Deadpool LE.....
But, my wifes' grail is Aerosmith.
Off to P1 tomorrow for the showroom pro.
Enough left to order Heavy Metal....
First world pinball problems.
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I had enough for a Deadpool LE.....
But, my wifes' grail is Aerosmith.
Off to P1 tomorrow for the showroom pro.
Enough left to order Heavy Metal....
First world pinball problems.
I had enough left to put 5k down on another pin.
Plus, toybox airballs scare the shit out of me.
One of the wifes favourite pins.
Let her slowly destroy a Pro
My new build we be along in a few months.
I went all in on Heavy Metal.
Love the magazine.
Came home today.
1st game was scary out of level.
Fixed it up.
Played a 2 player, set the high score.
Left her new toy for her to enjoy.
Signed up for overtime.
Mine is currently level bubble in the middle of the top line.
Will adjusting to centre make the airballs any better?
I do enjoy the speed.
I have had the odd not fully powering up issue.
I checked and adjusted the node boards from the latest SB as I figured if it was prepped before pickup that was done.
Came on fine.
Hopefully solved.
Which adj turns off match entirely???
Waste of time at home.
Otherwise, got my first 6 ball multi today.
How often does the shaker motor trigger?
Debating it as mod #2
Just don't know how often it will come on.
Elvis was one mode and a bit after that after that mode was done.
I spoke with P1 today.
Star Trek had a similar issue with the monitor not booting up on startup.
Software issue.
Looks like I need a code fix already, came with the latest code last week....
Ordered a spare toy box for down the road.
I noticed 2 big ball traps. Crank it up can hold 2 balls.
Lock with 2 balls is downright airball city.
Look out left wireform ramp.
What are people doing, if anything?
1st downtime today.
Wire broke off the elevator switch right at the switch.
Down until I can get another switch.
Couldn't get the elevator off from the bottom.
I can't seem to find a socket that fits the 2 elevator nuts.
Damn, switches.
I may just get a few.
Not too good at soldering on arm switches.
Also had a 3/4 length pin fall out from somewhere..
Looks like a regular sewing pin with a silver round head..
I am watching the led lighted ramos mod on ebay.
Says you get 2 ramps.
Anyone out there have this mod?
Looks neat but a little too repetitive...
Anyone have a schematic of Node 8
Vip is not lighting on the outlane.
No power going to the led.
Power up the line.
Looks like the place to begin.
Had 5 in the Toy Box and hit elevator multiball.
Very rewarding.
Took the 6 in the toybox after reloading a few.
My lamp is either the board pins or the wiring to the lamp.
Lamp (led board) is good.
Not a front burner issue at the moment.
I may just keep an eye out for a cheap spare node 8 and swap it out.
One you start de-clipping the harness the spegattification starts.....
All my buds all gravitated to Alien Poker.
That's the game our local arcade had.
Sure they like the rest.
But the memories.....
Pick up a few spare scoop switches.
A few sets of balls.
Plastic protectors.
I keep mine middle level.
Still get many airballs off the magnet.
I planned long term ownership and bought a spare toybox lid, inner liner and jacky.
The head on spring is available from stern.
Pinball life (I think)....
Pretty sure it is around $100
I went for 3 ball TB multi to try to finish more modes during multiball
Had a few locked in after TB multi on ball 2 so I went for 4 ball on.last ball.
Got rewarded with the new Champion.
Still a long way to a tour.....
What's your go to starting mode?
Currently: Same Old (super targets)
I try to leave Last Child until late. Takes a while to get the feel for loops.
I am getting the odd lock where it does not release the ball from the trough.
Looks for the ball,
Empties the toybox first.
Weird. Only happens on lock. Suspect it is not optos more code.
I was just considering the ulek protectors.
The more I play the more I see the magnet throwing the ball everywhere.
Best to get the uppers and lowers.
Trying to master the skill shot(s)
Still looking for a Stern Topper
I ordered the Ulek store protectors for the slingshots and thumper bumpers.
Still have to get a shaker motor, quiet fan.
Keep thinking about the powder coated returns, but with 1 pin downtime is not an option.
Looks like my other pin doesn't ship until November to Canada.
Broke down and had P1 ship all my Aerosmith spare parts.
Added a shaker motor for my pro.
Should I just drill through the center of the existing mounts from the underside?
Will have to do a dry fit 1st before starting. Especially to be sure I have enough wire to reach the spot.
Parts are a few days out.
I just don't open it up much.
Now that I have art blades I have to be really careful opening and closing, try to keep it to a minimum.
If I do drill them out it would be with a very small bit. Have to leave some meat to grab to.
I have a nice pin vice from my days painting minis.
Installed.
Shook like crazy
Unplugged
Node board 1 not found
I did have to drill.
Plugged into bottom of the board like the utube video.
Holes were drilled 9/10 of the way from the cab bottom.
Player 1 said they have had this problem with other customers.
Claim the motor may be defective.
Warranty will cover node 1
The nuts were there.
The holes were not complete from the cab bottom.
Wondering if it may have been that extra piece in the kit the capacitor spacer.
I drilled them out with a tiny bit and went up to the right size after pilot holes.
As the holes were over half done. I just has to drill a little.
I am way more concerned as to how a plug and play shaker goes all crazy shakey on start-up and cooks node #1
While down for the shaker problem.
I have been installing the Ulek protector set(s).
Hopefully, this will mitigate any problems from the magnet throwing the ball around
Slingshot protectors did need some adjusting to get mounted correctly as the opening for the lcd light board was too small.
Waiting to tackle the plastic to the left of the toybox last. If I have to take it off just to adjust around the lamp post it is going to really suck.
Can someone with a pro with a shaker post a pic of node board 1.
Kit states to use CN14 which is currently used.
Game did not boot up correctly when I 'followed the instructions provided'.
At least it didn't blow the node.
Pretty sure I know where I am going wrong.
Just want to be doubly sure.
Working fine now.
Not sure if I like it.
Game already shook at the start of multiball a little...
Thanks.
Capacitor kit for c14 is a pain to 'dress' correctly and not be flapping out everywhere.
Otherwise fine.
Now lets get that next pin built and in the house...
The shaker is more of an afterthought.
Go for the art blades and a shitload of plastic protectors.
Still thinking about stern glass, cut some reflection down.
Weird that the shaker capacitor is just for spike 2 games, looks like spike 1 is ok.
Stern warrantied the node board no problem. So plus plus to them. I just had the down time waiting for it to arrive.
Yeah all those misses and balls in the face had me invest in a replacement toy box (3 main bits).
I have a feeling they may become scarce down the road.
If the game doesn't have all 3 balls it gets the third from the toybox.
I guess it is hidden, just like playing 4 player and loading up the box on the early players to take 3 ball + any extras with the late players.
Are the weird start up issues a Spike thing?
I had to power up 4 times yesterday until it was more than a glow behind the backglass.
It's like the monitor just won't boot up and nothing happens (besides the internal node leds). It started as once in a while, seems a while is becoming more often, too often...
How was the side armour install???
I have been wondering about that one.
Looks like a pain to drill out all the rivets.
Extra side and button protection would be nice.
Game started resetting the PC mid game.
I left it off and it seems well with a short teat game.
It not like I score 100 mill a game....
Does anyone know if the quiet fan is the same strength or stronger than stock???
Anyone know of any changes done during build?
I have seen in an AC DC forum that some of the cabs had changes late in the run.
Don't know unless you ask...
Had mine just die out while counting up the bonus on ball one.
Restarted itself and it was fine.
Still have to figure out the source of ball into toybox no new ball launched.
Not all the time, but annoying.
I have been getting a bit of screen freeze, table goes dark. Flippers still work. Usually just a few seconds now and then.
Looks like its time to reseat more connections.
Otherwise, working on trying to get majors in some of the harder modes (for me).
Still no medley or loop champ.
Going on 6 months of ownership.
If I don't like it can I just default back to the old videos?
Or do I need to save all that data somewhere just in case.
Already have a buddy setting up one of his spare USBs with the data.
Could be fun to try over the holidays.
I will be sure to have 2 USBs.
My wife is not a huge fan of the run dmc WTW. One of her regular modes (dude is the other).
I have had the game locking up on me a bit lately. A code reinstall could be good in either case.
Question
I see translights for sale on sales sites.
My pro has a small reflective 30 over the Stern logo in the right bottom corner. The ones I am seeing online, much like the one I got and framed before getting my pro do not have the 30
One year only (anniversary)???
I read somewhere it was 1st verse... Sure the internet wouldn't lie...
..
I only really like the premium art
Same with deadpool....
Center thing reminds me of ringmaster, iron monger.
Hopefully it will have good fluid play.
Anyone out there have the modfather colour changing strip topper?
I don't have the space for it, but still want A topper.
Looks better than the other aftermarket (imo).
Would like some feedback before I buy.
My wife and I play whatever mode comes up to begin.
Take multiball if you have plenty of mode time.
Easier to finish a mode with 3+ balls trying to hit the required spot.
The risk of 6 ball is well worth it.
None of my high scores were done without it.
Lock and lost ball can be your friend as it empties the toy box to look.
Toybox lock launches the ball and then won't load another ball.
Releases from the box.
I re-seated my connections today.
Anyone else have or had this issue?
I took off the trough optos and cleaned them.
Seems to have my issue with the toy box not loading after lock fixed.
Thanks for the input and help.
Trough optos only fixed the toybox not spitting put a ball after lock for one or two games.
Then back to not responding and dumping the box.
Game is on the fast track to be going in for service now.
I would have totally checked the vuk plunger tip.
Wouldn't be surprised if there was some funky uneven wear or worn down.
It does get used quite a bit.
Had a wear issue on high speed kickback return back in the day.
Taking Aero in for my toy box issue.
I have a minor issue with VIP not lighting. May as well have a pro install the quiet fan kit.
The back trough board is a SOB to get at.
I have dropped the screws down the back of the playfield way too many times.
Debating just undoing the 6 screws and taking the whole trough off next time.
Elvis had way smaller trough optos that were 100% easier to get at.
I have the P3 Aeroforce one.
Looks nice, doesn't turn over all the time from being front Heavy.
Still nice and easy for the skill shot.
I had it at P1 last week getting serviced.
There have been rumors of accessory re-runs. I have been waiting 3 months for an opto. Parts at Sterns volume are hard to get. Need revenue...
I bought all the plastic protectors available.
Lock 2 at once during multiball and you can easily get to the left wireform.
I was in for at least 5 years of ownership. (Elvis lasted that long). So I sprung for a spare Jacky, toybox lid and inner lip.
2 sets of balls.
I just added the magnet speaker cover.
I bought those ones that go under the plastics.
No broken ones yet. Heck, I bought ever plastic protector out there with those flying balls
My guess is the elevator will be the first to chip and Crack with all the action it gets and the vuk lockouts.
I more trouble with the spotlight to the left of the toy box coming loose.
Nothing a little locktite didn't fix.
Mine has done this for a while. I takes a few tries but will eventually boot up.
When I took it in for service, it never happened once when they had it.
No new code installed.
Has anyone just put the pinballs in the oven?
I guess 175 degrees will remove magnetism.
Cheaper than a degaussing wand.
1.50 ×6 + shipping to butt-chuck nowhere
Or 20 mins in the oven and back to playing....
Seems like a no Brainer...
I finally got around to having my quiet fan kit installed.
A few big blobs of adhesive holding the cord.
Of well, I saved the old fan from my other Stern that wasn't full of glue.
At least I have a spare if something were to go south.
My Aero like to reboot.
Maybe I need to leave it on longer to 'warm up'.
Using the last code as I don't use inside connect.
Anyone else getting weird re boots
Looking for a root cause.
Get the shaker motor and art blades.
Set up 4 paint cans and set up your playfield stand. Use two people, I found a plastic drywall smoother helped with the application.
Went on pretty easily.
Shaker is the capacitor kit and the shaker plugs into the node board in the bottom right.
I bought the full spectrum of plastic protectors after seeing the flying balls.
Mine seems to self correct after the first miss or two.
If it's happening all the time I would look at the plunger on that coil and check it for wear.
Had that on High Speed kickback coil...
Looking for some input
Intermittent issue
Sometimes the Blackbox glows on start and nothing else happens.
Sometimes, game will freeze during play, sometimes it catches up, some times it powers down and resets.
Is this the power supply issue that I need to turn up? (Seen I'm another spike thread)
I keep the machines in the basement.
But, I have left the machine on for an hour and then try it and it will still do the freeze reset.
Last time I took it for Stern service it didn't act up while they had it.
UPDATE on my game freezing, reseting issue (sporatic).
Before replacing the whole cpu card $$$
Stern service has suggested I re-write the cpu SD card.
Then I had to call a few computer places to find someone with an SD card writer.
I found an old local BBS guy that can do it for me.
New SD by the weekend.
Quoted from mbwalker:We have a minty Mando Pro up for sale, but wouldn't mind getting a AS Pro is someone wants to do a local trade. Owned a clean Pro a few years ago, got rid of it in a deal w/a BM66. But out of all the pins we got rid of, AS was one we always toyed around w/getting it back.
Anyone interested?
Not that I would trade away my wifes baby,
(She has seen the Vegas show twice)
But you have no location.
Could hurt a trade.
New SD card did not fix my Pros issues.
It is intermittent, but always at the wrong time.
I just bought a new CPU and hopefully, I can get the old one fixed later.
New CPU card showed up today, it looked a little different than the one I removed.
So far so good, working 100% issue free thus far.
I made sure to wear some surgical gloves to have an insulator layer.
I will keep the old cpu in case they can get fixed down the road.
Anyone have a set of Purple side armor?
Black is still available, but my wife prefers the purple.
I bought a Pro so I could mod it.
My issues were sporadic.
Without a test jig it will probably be on the self a while.
But I will look into it.
You have to stay in the bubble.
I had to lower mine.
Otherwise you will have to start messing with the coils strength settings.
2 in lock during multiball usually ends up with one on the left wireform.
This pin damn near destroys itself with flying balls (especially jacked).
They are just from one year of the entire run. Nothing different.
Just have that little extra marking.
I am having the odd ball to the TB for lock that doesn't seem to register.
Anyone had this?
I took the cover plate off, the things that look like 3 lights on each side need some isopropyl?
That's my best guess.
I went all out on mods.
Plastic protectors 1st.
Carbon steel balls 2nd.
Get a feel for the skill shot while you look for a rod. I went with a P3 aeroforce one.
I don't seem to have optos at the front toybox holes.
I put my finger in the box by the back holes and it moves the floor up.
Front holes, I get nothing.
Explains why sometimes lock does not complete the cycle as it thinks it missed.
Anyone had this?
I will have to dive in and see if I can find where they plug into re seat the connection before going overboard buying parts.
That seems to have fixed my problem.
Re seating.
Finger test was good.
Need a few locks now to be doubly sure.
The game does has a ton of plays. 7k+
Surprised it was not worse.
It dumped the TB between locks on the 3rd game for P1.
Will need a few more test games.
Great Lineup
Don't underestimate the king,
Elvis is a great Spike 1
Sometimes, "Can I play with madness" gets annoying.
Many of the retailers have node boards.
Nitro here in Canada has some.
I recently got a CPU for Aerosmith, quick and easy.
Node boards are made to be disposable, there should be supplies of them.
If you want BS, order parts for a boutique or private label Stern. It takes weeks, and then you open a second ticket to remind them that they have done nothing.
I have the magnetic panel and it matched the pro quite well
Only bothered because Heavy Metal as a panel
Had to get speaker panels for HM to catch up.
The lid and a spare jester head were parts that came home from the showroom with the pin.
Maybe you can turn it into a shooter rod, now that it's broken and all...
Jester head assembly (515-9965-00) $90 in 2020
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