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Has anyone noticed that less and less of the .156 molex crimp contacts don't have an equal "wing" on each side of the top to slide into the housing? I have been tossing out around 28% of them these days. You can 'get away' with them being a little off but a lot of them will not seat properly at all. You would think a company like Molex would be all over that, but I guess not.
I like trifurcon contacts also. They only need to be used on a few of the high traffic wires though. I just got in another Bally -35 game where some hero used them on all of the rectifier housings. I almost took to chaining it up to a four wheel drive truck to get the bastard apart. Bad bridge.
Hi all, Clearly needing more testing I took it upon myself to do some more testing. Using Remington 20 AWG hook up wire with a 10/30 strand and a wire diameter of 0.0320" and an overall diameter of 0.0700" I took approximately 1 foot of that and crimped a bifurcated Arcadeshop contact to one end and a regular Molex 08-52-0072 to the other end. I put them both in my bench vice being careful not to involve the crimped part itself and pulled upward. I tried this twice and John was right, the gold flashed one gave up before the Molex one did. Okay, -but- I was very close to lifting a very heavy work bench off the floor doing so, that is a non issue IMHO. Dis-simular metals can have an adverse reaction to each other. https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm Doesn't seem to apply to gold but I don't have a thousand years to see if that is true or not. I simulated putting a connector on and off of a circuit board and found the gold flashed type to be superior, they are a bit more rigid but are not breakable. The Molex version lost it flexibility way to soon. If there were a choice today I would only buy the gold flashed type. Very truly yours. It's Monday.
Sort of what I was saying. You can make a lot of them work but like the one you pictured, if it's that bad it is dumpster bait.
Quoted from G-P-E:The ones in the picture that I posted were genuine Molex contacts -- 08-52-0125.
The ones in the picture that Mombo posted were also genuine Molex contacts -- 08-52-0072 (kind of, see below).
I know both of these two for a fact.
Molex didn't think I had a big enough volume to buy direct so they setup an account with their master distributor -- Waldom.
I buy presealed bags of 100 of the 08-52-0072 contacts from Waldom. These Waldom provided contacts originate from 08-52-0071 contacts. 08-52-0071 and 08-52-0072 contacts are identical except for one thing: 08-52-0071 comes on reels of 7000, 08-52-0072 come in boxes of 7000 (loose piece).
Waldom only buys full reels from Molex and has their own de-spooler for redistribution of contacts rather than buying loose piece from Molex.
I'll check my stock Monday and see what I have. If I have any like the photo posted by Mombo then I need to have a serious talk with Waldom (again).
John, the ones in your photo are 08-05-0301 Chinese "wannabees" intended for use with the double sided edge connectors as used by Gottlieb. They are not gold plated but are gold "flashed" --> very thin gold plating. For most uses that require gold, gold flash is good enough but against Gottlieb tin plated edge connectors - gold flash is not desired. I had a few of these contacts sent to me for evaluation. In a pinch, they will work but I wouldn't expect them to last as long as the originals. These wannabees have a softer base metal and tend to bend too easily. I believe I found the source for these... a Chinese company, of course. They have practically the entire Molex catalog on their website. I wouldn't trust Chinese contacts for anything as the base metal is never quite right -- either too flexible (bendable) or too rigid (breakable).
So, in the long run (wondering how this may have happened) I would suppose the de-reeler is a noise making machine. I would figure the guys a Waldom didn't want to listen to that all day and cranked it up to top speed. One hiccup and we would have fudge ups galore. Then being they are sold by weight when your moving 100's or 1000's at a time nobody noticed until a guy using them had to start tossing out loosers. I must have got one of the second types of bags you had opened. I don't think half are bad, but I don't know, it will be awhile before I get through all them...I hope (sic of doing connectors, who ain't?). Do you use an ohaus 2610? And yes, just to put it in writing, I know you wouldn't send these out if you knew about them. I'm going to quite writing about Molex stuff altogether, it always causes a sh!t storm. P.S. Ed, please leave the baseball bat at home if you go over there today.
Quoted from slochar:That's some bad QC.... you have a right to be pissed. No way are those going into the housings and staying correctly.
I'm sure they are packed by weight, the only QC would be what the gram scale says.
I'm not pissed, found it surprising if anything. I have been a Great Plains customer for 20 years or so. Ed is always the first choice for pinball electronic repair stuff. I don't know what the Mouser catalog is like these days, but you use to need a BA in Greek to figure it out the last time I looked at it. Digikey (a Minnesota company about 85 miles from me) can't seem to find their ass with both hands, it takes them 3 weeks to change their mind (or used to).
Quoted from 76brian:Hey folks... I'm having a hell of a time with my Black Jack. It boots and plays, but after being on for 10 mins it will randomly add credits and points during a game and random controlled lights will get stuck on. Then after a while longer, it will just reset over and over with either 3 flashes then nothing, or one or two flashes with the LED stuck on, sometimes no flashes at all and no LED, sometimes the LED is stuck on as soon as power is on... etc etc.
If I leave it off for a while, it works again but the cycle repeats... it happens both on the bench and in the game. Boots fine at first, then it goes screwy after it's on a few mins.
There's no corrosion on the board at all, it's very clean, but I've rebuilt the reset section anyways. I've also replaced the U6, U7, U8, U9, U10, U11 IC sockets. I removed the RAM/battery and added barakandl's NVRAM. I replaced U11 and U10 (with new W65C21N). I replaced U14 (with new CD4049UBE). Nothing's changed. I have +5v everywhere that needs it, and pretty sure there's pulses where there should be but I just get lost after a while of checking.
Since the board starts up and plays fine after it's been off for a while, I'm thinking it's a bad IC... something heating up internally and failing. I think have every part on hand to replace everything on the board (except a 6800 and a 6810 unfortunately... and those are the only 2 IC's getting slightly warm).
I dunno where to go from here. Could someone give me an idea what to check to confirm which IC is bad? ...or any other ideas what could be wrong? Thanks!
After it messes up I would do a switch test. It sound like one or more stuck switches.
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Shoreview, MN