That's a 20 pin 0.156" connector - here it is on GPE:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp

Part Number CS156-20-LR

Also, you'll need pins and a crimper...

08-52-0125 (part number for trifurcon pins)

1028-CT (this is one crimper)

W-HT-1919 (this is an alternate)

Something I'm not certain of on the crimpers - I use one similar to the 1028-CT, and it doesn't list the exact trifurcon p/n as compatible, but I've been pretty successful with it, it took a few tries until I got the technique down - anyone have a preferred tool for crimping those pins?

So oldschoolbob what pin configurations of the headers do you typically keep on hand? Say QTY 10 .156 8 pin, QTY 10 .156 12 pin, etc...?

What about sockets/receptacle connectors? What is best to keep on hand? .100 as well as .156 ?

Thanks!!

You can figure it out easy enough. Look at your boards where the connectors are. Each connector will have 2 numbers beside it. There will be a #1 and there will be another number. Say #17. That tells you there are 17 pins in that connector. But it might be #18. Or #19. Or #12.

Keep track of the size of the pins as you count them up. The .100 pins are usually in the salmon colored connectors. The .156 larger size pins will usually be in the white connector wafers.

Just count them up and add them together on your calculator. Order some extras. They are cheap, so don't cheap out. Get some extras. Odds are you will destroy a few when performing your installations.

Order some extra keyway blocker pins in both sizes. I can't tell you how many times I have come upon connectors with no blocking pins installed. Those blocker pins keep you from plugging things in incorrectly and frying your pin.

Thanks - I understand how to count pins and whatnot - but wondered if there were any 'typical' sizes I needed to have on hand when I were working on Bally, Stern early SS games. There are just so many damned types, didn't want to order too much of what I didn't need.

So, typically, the .156 connectors (the ones that take the most juice) are the ones that are typically cooked? The ones on the rectifier boards?

This ratcheting tool does both crimps at the same time and is very precise, unlike eyeballing it with an old fashioned crimping tool. Works for both .10" and .156".
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01

I would order the .10" headers from Great Plains, but you can get 50 strips of 40 pin .156" headers for $6.75 on Amazon and qualifies for free shipping with an order over $25:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8CV8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

I have bought all different sizes over the years, and ended up with a bunch I have no use for - any more I just get a bunch of 40 pin connectors and cut them to size. A dremel or knife works fine.

bluespin those are .100 headers. 2.54mm = .100", I ordered them when you posted that link the other day. They're much shorter than the originals too, roughly .250 compared to .315". I went ahead and ordered about a hundred bucks worth of connector components from Great Plains to replace them all.

Yep, I pay a lot more to have the custom 0.315" headers made (same length as Molex 22-28-4361).
The ones linked are normally 0.236" to 0.240" long. These shorter connectors cost far less but they're actually a bit too short and the connectors sometimes don't hold on too well.

I'm thinking for the newbie, or someone not versed in electronics, that electronics detail parts all look the same and price becomes the determining factor. I try to buy local whenever I can; Until 6-7 months ago, we had a small independent electronics supply store that had been here since the 60s. I bought my .062 crimp contact sockets and pins from this shop. The shop closed; For good. So, I bought a quantity of these parts from G-P-E.

I thought these crimp contracts were all the same. Quality of manufacture had not entered my mind. I found out different. The crimps I got from G-P-E have a longer crimp area where the wire gets crimped. The extra length make them much easier to do a proper crimp.

But how do you know? My local shop did not come out saying, " Hey, these crimps have a shorter crimp area than others you can buy." And G-P-E's website does not call out that its crimps have a longer crimp area. Price was not even a consideration on these low-priced crimps. I just was buying local.

Unless you know what to look for and what questions to ask, you are going to look at price---until you get burned.
===============

Re-flowing: To do what you are suggesting--and I am not disagreeing--and remove solder and replace headers, to avoid exercises in futility one really needs a de-solder gun. Everybody says Hakko is the one to have; Dig deep for the $300.00. I did and I have never regretted it. But for many, three yards for a de-solder gun is a bridge too far. Yeah, Yeah. You can use the copper braid but for reflowing it is a poor substitute. So, reflowing floats to the top as the go-to option.

I wanted to apologize. I was just repeating what I was told without trying the product out. I’ll be buying the headers from Great Plains going forward

You're talking about 2 different problems, a cold (cracked) solder joint and a corroded/dirty header. If your header is bad, replace it.

If you have one cold solder joint and the header is ok, most people will add some new solder and re-flow. Time and skill/experience would probably be factors in the decision.

Of course, on a new SS purchase lots of guys will pull the boards and re-flow all the headers real quick just as a matter of course.

Total overkill IMO unless you're reworking boards day in and day out. One of these with some good quality wick and flux is all most folks would need. I do more board work than most (just not on pins) and I find these far more convenient... it's cordless!

MJnPnVZm (resized).jpg

What exactly makes old solder 'bad' that reflowing it and adding a bit of solder doesn't fix?

A few reasons... You probably end up adding too much solder and lose the surface tension in the joint making it weaker. It's also been collecting corrosion or dirt for as long as it's been there, and you end up mixing all that in with the new stuff, contaminating the 'new' connection. You're also mixing solder types, with possibly different melting and curing points that would lead to a poor joint. Probably other reasons too but any one of those is a good enough reason on it's own IMO.

I had one of those and gave it away. I also have one of those squeeze bulbs. bought the Hakko and have never been sorry.

I've never really found a use for the squeeze bulb type, certainly not to suck up solder. I have the hakko for chips or if I'm doing a lot at once but otherwise the solder sucker tube or braid works fine.

For people with the hakko.... if you can desolder sideways it makes it a lot easier since you're not overcoming gravity. At a buddy's once I had to replace a 40 pin PIA on a system 11 board he went upstairs for a couple minutes to get a beer and when he came back down I was done with the desoldering AND the installation of a new socket.... he couldn't believe it.

Of course, major advantage when you're cutting OUT the chip and just have to remove the pins. But still.... less than 10 minutes.

Get extra filters and change them occasionally to keep the pump in good shape.

Are you referring to the spring loaded solder tube? I have one like that and it's pretty easy to use and works well.

The best advice I can give is to add liquid flux, a lot of it too, for any of the methods. I even add it to braid because the braid often dries out when opened and often has insufficient flux on it to begin with. When using an auto pump desolderer, make sure you are using the proper size tip to fit the via pad to get the best results. The third suggestion is to keep your tools clean and change traps and filters often.

Yeah, I have a couple of old radioshack ones that work fine. Sometimes the pin that pushes the solder out gets misaligned but other than that it's good.

RadioShack is where mine came from as well.

I have a little larger one - and also a desoldering tool - and I completely prefer the old school 'Solda-Pull-It' (?) that I got from Jameco, including the extra tips. The desoldering tool is a PITA to clean out. The Solda-pull-it is not.

https://www.jameco.com/z/HB-017-High-Vacuum-Manual-Desolder-Pump-with-PTFE-Tip_1942139.html?CID=MERCH

This is great info, but for a newbie who has never done this before, some of it is going over my head. I just want to do the job right the first time. Is there a youtube video or pinball link that shows the proper steps for replacing the pins & headers?

Another thing you can do is get some electronics education at a local trade school or college. Then you won't be a newbie anymore!

The most important thing to know, in my opinion, is controlling heat. The shorter the duration of heat applied to the components leads to less potential damage.

And the most important thing to have when starting a solder/de-solder job is a steady hand. I usually cut back to four cups of coffee from my usual sixteen when I know I'm going to be soldering that day.

When I'm soldering or de-soldering I 'jump on' the item I'm soldering/de-soldering as quick as I can. I typically use 650 degrees farenheit for most things I'm soldering/de-soldering.

Keep a sharp eye on when the component heats up enough for the solder to flow, it will look like liquid mercury when it's liquid, and more like tin or zinc or lead when it's no longer liquid.

Make sure all sides of the item you're soldering are covered in with a proper amount of solder, and there are no gaps.

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/making-a-good-solder-joint

https://www.howcast.com/videos/504729-how-to-create-a-good-joint-soldering

https://www.howcast.com/videos/504735-how-to-remove-solder-soldering

What do you mean on this one?

28% is an interesting number, Why n0t 25%? 0r 30% ? H0w many t0tai c0unt have y0u t0ssed? 50? 100? 200? M0re? iess?

This one really has my curiosity up.
See attached mugshot of a Molex 08-52-0125 -- 0.156" trifurcon style for 22-26AWG wire.
Can you indicate what would be off with those. Do keep in mind that Molex, being the penny pinching company they are, has closed US plants this past year and started shipping contacts made in India this year. So far, I haven't seen issues with contacts but have seen lots of broken and deformed headers coming out of India this year. The 08-52-0125 contact in this photo came from India.

08520125_Mugshots (resized).jpg

And while I'm playing with my camera. Attached is a completely related photo. This is from the bottom of my paper cup from a Disney World hotel. I was amazed that their soft drink dispensers were keeping track of refills with *paper* cups. Here's a photo of what was on the bottom.

DisneyWorldChippedCup (resized).jpg

Huh? S0 yu0 are teiiing us that Disney is keeping track wh0 is pigging 0ut 0n refiiis? 0r at ieast keeping track 0f h0w many refiiis are being made?

Yep, just shadows. The 'brown' colors is from the light reflecting off the brown cabinets next to me.
Nobody else makes trifurcons other than Chinese knockoffs which I wouldn't touch based on the pot metal they use.
AMP makes a 0.156" series of very similar connectors. I plan on looking into those when I get a chance.

S0meb0dy needs t0 teii The Prez, Keep these j0bs at h0me

Yep. But the thing that amazes me is the amount of cost they went through to count the number of refills that cost them next to nothing. Cost to design the sensors for the cups (that was the cheap part), cost to design the sensors built into the bottom of the dispensor machines, cost for software to keep track, etc. Gotta be much more than it cost for the refills. All I can figure is this guarantees they can keep continue charging $8 (or what ever it was) for their drinks.

At the bar?

The dispensers at Disney will keep you from filling a cup you bought last year or filling a cup more than once within a certain time period.

At least they haven’t installed the sensors on the coffee pots yet!

N0, at h0me, ciean and s0ber,

With a h0sed up keyb0ard

And retired----when my j0b went t0 Mexic0, It is never c0ming back,

0K I see, If I were a Disney reguiar, at $8 per drink I w0uid be keeping the cup I b0ught iast year, t00 ! G0d f0rbid if yu0 0pen the d00r 0n an inr00m fridge and t0uch s0mething,

H0w much is a hamburger ?