(Topic ID: 258282)

Advice please: decal removal?


By Johncare07

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 86 days ago by northstar-
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 2 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    72B0462F-7DDC-4A38-9640-22EA35AD4564 (resized).png
    6810C487-3867-4AE4-9B0E-05124B00CE76 (resized).png

    #1 3 months ago

    I’m embarking on my first restore. It is IJ pinball adventure. I’ve spent considerable time researching the best approach for removing cabinet decals and am curious.

    Since Methylene Chloride was banned in the USA, what is the best way to remove the decals?

    I see how a heat gun works, but when compared to the videos I’ve watched using Adhesive remover with Methylene Chloride as an ingredient, its night and day difference as far as time commitment.

    Would love to hear your opinion and advice. Thanks in advance.

    6810C487-3867-4AE4-9B0E-05124B00CE76 (resized).png
    #2 3 months ago

    Just went thru this. Remove rails with high heat gun and scraping underneath. PAIN in the ass. Then, for decals:

    Use a heat gun and scrape. No easy way around it. I had to use one on high heat. Expect a ton of elbow grease. Takes a lot of time.

    Afterwards, there will be a TON of glue residue. Use GOOF OFF (the original formula) and dump it on in puddles, allowing it to set in for like 15 mins. Then scrape. Gotta do this many many times to get it all off.

    #3 3 months ago

    This chemical he is using in the video is incredible. Check out 4:00.

    72B0462F-7DDC-4A38-9640-22EA35AD4564 (resized).png
    #4 3 months ago

    I don’t understand the need for chemicals at all. I have done several cabinets with an orbital sander, and each main cabinet side takes about 30-45 minutes and the head about 20 minutes.

    I use 80 grit on the initial pass and go through about 15 discs for the whole cabinet.

    No adhesive to remove afterwards.

    #5 3 months ago

    Thanks Ralph. So it sounds to me like the sander isn’t as messy as the heat gun? The sander doesn’t gum up when the sand paper grit starts hitting the adhesive?

    #6 3 months ago

    Sanding is the way I mostly do it as well.

    #7 3 months ago
    Quoted from Johncare07:

    Thanks Ralph. So it sounds to me like the sander isn’t as messy as the heat gun? The sander doesn’t gum up when the sand paper grit starts hitting the adhesive?

    It’s hard to explain, it is sort of a feel thing. Let the sander do the work, and when it stops removing art without force from the operator, it’s time to change the paper. The paper shouldn’t be all gummed up, unless you are putting too much force into it.

    As far as mess goes, I use a cheap craftsmen Orbital with a shop vac Attached to it. Zero mess at all.

    #8 3 months ago

    following

    #9 3 months ago

    Aerosol paint stripper. Spray on heavy, give it 20 minutes, scrapes off easily.
    Remove residual glue with xylene (get it at Home Depot paint Dept). Brush it on, use razor blade to pull/scrape off.

    #10 3 months ago

    The EPA mandated all paint strippers remove the main chemical, (https://www.live5news.com/2019/03/19/epa-bans-sale-chemical-paint-stripper-which-killed-north-charleston-man/ ) Methyl Chloride that was the workhorse to strip the decals/paint. As far as I can tell, all the paint strippers that remain on the market are sub optimal. Has anyone used the new strippers since the mandate?

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from ralphwiggum:

    I don’t understand the need for chemicals at all. I have done several cabinets with an orbital sander, and each main cabinet side takes about 30-45 minutes and the head about 20 minutes.
    I use 80 grit on the initial pass and go through about 15 discs for the whole cabinet.
    No adhesive to remove afterwards.

    Just to clarify, you sand off the decal and adhesive and do no peeling? Or do you first remove the decal and then sand?

    Sorry for the dumb question.

    #12 3 months ago

    Sanding with an orbital sander. Connect to your shop vac for the dust. Not easy peasy but still easy.

    #13 3 months ago
    Quoted from gearheaddropping:

    Just to clarify, you sand off the decal and adhesive and do no peeling? Or do you first remove the decal and then sand?
    Sorry for the dumb question.

    Sand everything, decal, glue, etc.

    #14 3 months ago
    Quoted from Rondogg:

    Sand everything, decal, glue, etc.

    Yep... sand everything... the glue is not an issue at all if you let the sander do the work.

    If you did this as a job, I would say get a festool setup and call it done. That setup is incredible.

    #15 3 months ago

    Yes I do this all the time just use a heat gun with a scraper they come off easy they after use a sander 80 or 100 grit then go too 150 grit let the sander do the work and then go too 240 or higher too finsh off good too go

    -1
    #16 3 months ago
    Quoted from Williampinball:

    Yes I do this all the time just use a heat gun with a scraper they come off easy they after use a sander 80 or 100 grit then go too 150 grit let the sander do the work and then go too 240 or higher too finsh off good too go

    This is my go to method.

    #17 3 months ago

    If you have a few bucks laying around, Festool will become your best friend.

    #18 3 months ago
    Quoted from ralphwiggum:

    If you have a few bucks laying around, Festool will become your best friend.

    Here's one of my favorite Festool decal removal videos - less than 4 minutes to remove one side on the cabinet - no dust, no gummed up paper.

    #19 3 months ago

    Another recommendation for sander. I never even considered scraping adhesive off as an option...

    #20 3 months ago

    That Festool is incredible. It sells for $600! Is there anywhere you can rent them?

    #21 3 months ago
    Quoted from Johncare07:

    That Festool is incredible. It sells for $600! Is there anywhere you can rent them?

    The sander alone is $600. You'll also need need the dust extractor at $700+ depending on the model.

    Maybe there's a Pinsider in your area with a Festool that would sand your cabinet for a small fee.

    #22 3 months ago
    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    Just went thru this. Remove rails with high heat gun and scraping underneath. PAIN in the ass. Then, for decals:
    Use a heat gun and scrape. No easy way around it. I had to use one on high heat. Expect a ton of elbow grease. Takes a lot of time.
    Afterwards, there will be a TON of glue residue. Use GOOF OFF (the original formula) and dump it on in puddles, allowing it to set in for like 15 mins. Then scrape. Gotta do this many many times to get it all off.

    Totally agree- as I recently did this myself. Just be aware that temperature of heat and speed of hot air will impact how quick the job is. If too slow, the metal scraper will leave scratches in the wood that you will need to Bondo and sand. If don't then it will be visible after decals applied.

    Also, I would reccomend that you use a product called rapid-tack and the wet method of adhering decals. Generally the dry method is only recommended for people who have done this many times

    #23 3 months ago

    The Festool is nice but way over the top for just home owner crap. I've used many of them but only in High end restorations of homes and building cabinets or bars.

    #24 3 months ago
    Quoted from Williampinball:

    Yes I do this all the time just use a heat gun with a scraper they come off easy they after use a sander 80 or 100 grit then go too 150 grit let the sander do the work and then go too 240 or higher too finsh off good too go

    Way way cheaper this way always works very well

    #25 3 months ago

    williampinball why not just sand it all at once?

    #26 3 months ago
    Quoted from Johncare07:

    williampinball why not just sand it all at once?

    Because it would just clogged up the sand paper fast and go though a lot , I find its easyer too use a heat gun with a scraper then sand put its up too u

    #27 3 months ago
    Quoted from Stuieb84:

    Also, I would reccomend that you use a product called rapid-tack and the wet method of adhering decals.

    100% agree.

    Made things way easier and less nerve wracking for sure.

    I can’t ever think of not using rapid tac.

    1 week later
    #28 86 days ago

    I also use the festool but on some decals I like to leave the white part of the decal on, this
    is a great foundation for the new decals.
    If the decal comes off easiley I'll take it down to the wood.

    I was wondering do any of you guys seal the wood after sanding?

    My answer is I don't I sand it smooth enough and had no troubles with the decal adhering to the wood.

    Like to putty by the legs since most of the time they are dented in these areas.
    I like to use Bondo wood filler a two part putty resin that sands out better than the car putty which some others preferred.
    and lay a few coats down by the legs and than sand out,this levels these areas out.

    the Festool has two settings one for a direct drive orbital for faster stock removal and the other setting like a vibrator for finner sanding to finish up.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 39.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 35.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Pinball Haus
    $ 229.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 29.95
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Pinball Photos
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop
    $ 29.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 109.99
    From: $ 19.95
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 3.00
    Cabinet Parts
    BK Pinball
    $ 25.00
    Boards
    German-Pinball-Modular
    $ 54.99
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    £ 49.00
    Playfield - Other
    PinballToys
    $ 96.77
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Pinball-Mods.com
    $ 7,599.00
    Pinball Machine
    Little Shop Of Games
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 85.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lermods
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 149.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Sparky Pinball
    $ 74.00
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    Id Rather Play Pinball
    From: $ 209.99
    Lighting - Led
    Comet Pinball
    From: $ 50.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Pinball Art Prints
    $ 7,599.00
    Pinball Machine
    Operation Pinball
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside