I’d cut them and put spade connectors on them, easier in the future should you ever need to replace it again.

Nobody was. We sat at a table or work bench and learned to flow solder, then moved onto expensive things.

Youtube is littered with short how to videos like this :

Or this -

or search for one you like.

LTG : )

I believe you want 0.187"

Most common in my parts is Quarter Inch---1/4.... = .250 Male and Female slide connectors-( Non politically correct nowadays is spade connectors)

.250 Male and Female (resized).jpg

Yes, cut the wires and crimp on spade connectors for future ease of replacement (I am also fairly sure 0.187” is what you want - DumbAss is, in fact, NOT a dumbass).

Follow LTG’s advice for learning to solder. I’d further recommend that you invest in a decent quality temp-controlled soldering station (if you can swing $100, the Hakko FX-888 is highly recommended and might be all you ever need) and a selection of 3-4 tip sizes (0.8mm, 1.2mm, 2.4mm, and 3.2mm chisel tips are sufficient for most any pinball repairs other than SMT reworking). Start with a temp setting of 325C (resist the temptation to set the temp too low because it will take longer to make the connection and is actually a higher risk to damage the component being soldered than a higher temp for shorter duration).

Get some QUALITY 0.032” 63/37 Sn/Pb rosin-core solder (Kester “44” is about all I ever use). Rosin is derived from pine sap and contains abiatic acid which undergoes a heat-catalyzed reducing reaction with surface oxides, cleaning them from the metal and allowing the solder to wet/alloy with the parts being joined. I recommend against water-soluble fluxes because they MUST be thoroughly cleaned from the joints after soldering. I also advise against learning with Pb-free alloys as they require a higher temp and are more difficult to work with and achieve a solid connection. 63/37 is a little easier and quicker to flow than 60/40 because it is a eutectic alloy (has a specific melting point rather than melting range); the only disadvantage is that the connections are slightly less physically robust than with 60/40, but I’ve never encountered this as a problem in my games/other stuff.

Watch a video or two, then go to town practicing on junk circuit boards, wire scraps, etc. When you get a little confidence, assemble a reasonably simple kit or two, and if you are successful you can then feel confident about working on your games. (I recommend Elenco and Velleman kits, as they have excellent build instructions and PCB quality and a wide selection of kits); a couple of specific selections which will be useful finished products:

Bench Power Supply (https://www.electronickits.com/bench-acdc-power-supply-kit) - will give good experience with both point-to-point and PCB soldering, as well as skills like heatsink prep and assembly, and works well as a bench PS.

Digital Multimeter (https://www.electronickits.com/digital-multimeter-kit-training-course) - great educational build manual, and everyone needs a decent meter with the functions this one has.

Cant tell exactly from the photo but it doesn't appear the wire nor the coil wire (red) was actually broken. Looks like only the plastic corner was broke off with wires in tact. Only a question Not a suggestion but couldn't he simply super glue the plastic corner back on as long as the wires are good?

Yes. Don't know if it will last with the pounding of the plunger.

LTG : )

I used a dab of hot glue in the past, has about the same colour and holds pretty good.

I think the game is now ruined and you should throw it away. Lol.

It’s got a busted coil.... totally useless

Get a new coil. It will do two things. Fix your problem, and teach you to solder.

Well now where is the fun in that ?

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ Ed has all you need. Find crimpers there for every price range.

LTG : )

Neither. You don’t need interconnects. The coil wiring will still fail the same...

Please forgive me for pointing this out. The time you spend researching this. Figuring what you need. Ordering parts. etc. etc.

You could have sat at a table for 5 minutes and learned to solder better. Heat joint, touch solder to joint, watch it flow. Done.

LTG : )

No matter how cheap your iron is. If it heats up, it will work for this job.

That is what files are for. Retin the tip after you file it.

Quicker than learning crimping, if you had the tool and connector.

LTG : )

No, don't ask for forgiveness. This is pure truth. If you're going to own pinball machines, you need to know how to solder. It's like playing basketball without knowing how to dribble or shoot.

Bite the bullet, practice some, and learn a basic skill of this hobby. As stated, at least hundreds of videos on this. Get some "solder flux" to help you at first, and with time, you'll get the hang of it, and it will become second nature.

No. Tin the wire (put solder on it), then attach the wire to the lug. It doesn’t need to go through the tab holes. But there are holes in those tabs.

Yep. You can see the indentations if you look close. Heat that up and it will reveal the hole.

All this solder talk is making me want to solder something

Or go to SS Billiards and get trained by the best.

Could always strip the wire, tie and solder extra wire to that one (for more slack), and then place shrink tubing over the exposed wire part! Then just solder the now longer wire you have to the new lug. Good luck, dude