(Topic ID: 200482)

Advice on 3d printing/fabrication

By Oldgoat

6 years ago


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  • 37 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Oldgoat
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    #1 6 years ago

    I purchased an old Gotlieb 3-way strength tester off e-bay. When I opened it up, I discovered that one of the pieces was broken into four pieces. It is made of pot metal. I've purchased some muggy weld, which is supposed to work on pot metal. However, upon closer inspection and looking at working machines, I can see that another piece broke off and is missing. I thought about fabricating a replacement part from metal; however, given the complexity of the shape, it seems like 3d printing would be my best option. Added incentive is another project, which will require fabricating a couple of parts.

    Here is my criteria...I'd like minimum bed size of 8x8x4 I will need to use a filament that will produce a part that is strong and stiff (recommendations), I also need easy to use software to draw parts. I would like it to be able to create prototype parts fairly quickly, but don't care how long a finished product takes to produce. Getting a kit is fine, assuming it doesn't require a mechanical engineer to put together properly. Now the biggest constraint. I want to be under $300 for the printer + software (I'm fine with free software...more money for the printer)

    Thoughts?

    #2 6 years ago

    There was recently a "vid" thread where a kit was on sale cheap. There were several others discussed in the thread also.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-desktop-printer-139-free-shipping

    #3 6 years ago
    Quoted from Travish:

    There was recently a "vid" thread where a kit was on sale cheap. There were several others discussed in the thread also.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-desktop-printer-139-free-shipping

    Yeah, I saw that thread and, in fact was thinking about posting in it instead of starting a new thread. However, it seemed like there were the $139 options and the $599 Prusa (boy,,,,does that seem nice). I didn't see much of anything recommended between those two. Now it could well be a case of market stratification where you have your $150 price point and your $600 point, with the $300 ones no better than the $150 options.

    #4 6 years ago
    Quoted from Oldgoat:

    I didn't see much of anything recommended between those two.

    Check out the Monoprice Maker Select v2. It's what I have, and it definitely falls between the $139 and $599 options in terms of features as well as price. I'd love to have a Prusa, but I'd have a hard time paying twice as much for it.
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsZHPBRClARIsAC-VMPDfRwW6sct_d2ariZVEMe6enleMz7Pe1tJW5guWe2OPg3ZYq2ghOf0aAgieEALw_wcB

    #5 6 years ago
    Quoted from herg:

    Check out the Monoprice Maker Select v2. It's what I have, and it definitely falls between the $139 and $599 options in terms of features as well as price. I'd love to have a Prusa, but I'd have a hard time paying twice as much for it.
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsZHPBRClARIsAC-VMPDfRwW6sct_d2ariZVEMe6enleMz7Pe1tJW5guWe2OPg3ZYq2ghOf0aAgieEALw_wcB

    Hmm, looks very interesting, especially since you have experience with it. Software?
    Do they ever run a special on it or any discounts?
    Thanks

    #6 6 years ago

    If metal parts are breaking, you may have problems getting printed plastic that's strong enough.

    Maybe get the software, draw up the part and have shapeways or someone print in different materials to see what works before investing in a printer.

    #7 6 years ago

    https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_628789.html

    These are cheap. Takes some tweaking to get it printing nice though.

    #8 6 years ago
    Quoted from AbeVigoda:

    If metal parts are breaking, you may have problems getting printed plastic that's strong enough.
    Maybe get the software, draw up the part and have shapeways or someone print in different materials to see what works before investing in a printer.

    It's hard to say what caused this, but it is broken in four pieces, plus a couple of pieces broke off of it, that were not included when it was shipped to me. I'm thinking it was jammed and someone got real frustrated with it. It is also pot metal, which can be pretty darn brittle. However, I am concerned about how strong it will be (and, to be honest, unsure of strong it needs to be.) My concern with using a shapeways type service is that I am going to have to do a little trial and error for the main missing piece, which is why I wanted faster speeds for prototyping. I may try to take a pic and see what people think

    #9 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mfsrc791:

    https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_628789.html
    These are cheap. Takes some tweaking to get it printing nice though.

    Do you have one of these? How much tweaking is needed?

    #10 6 years ago

    here's a pic of the broken part. It is now in four pieces, which makes me think this is not the result of the part wearing out. My guess, the machine was jammed, the entire inside of the machine was coated with what appeared to be Liquid wrench or something similar...I mean must have used a half can of the stuff. When that did not work, they used a persuader (hammer) to unjam it and the whole thing shattered. They got mad and tossed it in a box in the corner where some of the pieces fell out. (I've penciled in one piece that is missing...a cross brace and circled two other places where a triangle shaped piece should be.

    brokenpiece_LI (resized).jpgbrokenpiece_LI (resized).jpg

    #11 6 years ago
    Quoted from Oldgoat:

    Do you have one of these? How much tweaking is needed?

    Yes I do. Not alot. It took a little bit of time to put together. Had to print a spool holder. Also, you can print brackets that will help stiffen everything. Just leveling the bed took a few tries and figuring out the temperatures to print at too. Also, had to print a fan bracket to help with cooling. It's fun but more work than spending 500 dollars on a completed printer.

    #12 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mfsrc791:

    Yes I do. Not alot. It took a little bit of time to put together. Had to print a spool holder. Also, you can print brackets that will help stiffen everything. Just leveling the bed took a few tries and figuring out the temperatures to print at too. Also, had to print a fan bracket to help with cooling. It's fun but more work than spending 500 dollars on a completed printer.

    Sounds like a fair amount of tweaks are needed...were the files for the addons readily available? Also, what software do you use?

    #13 6 years ago

    Yes lots of premade parts for the printer are easily downloadable. I use Cura as a slicer. (I'm a noob at this so take my advice with a grain of salt)

    #14 6 years ago

    are these cheapies worth it? I'm thinking of getting one for my son to make little crappy figues and learn about 3D modeling in the process. Wouls also be cool to print some old models i made in Blender years ago. In other words, justification to buy one for myself via "learning" with my son.

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from thedefog:

    are these cheapies worth it? I'm thinking of getting one for my son to make little crappy figues and learn about 3D modeling in the process. Wouls also be cool to print some old models i made in Blender years ago. In other words, justification to buy one for myself via "learning" with my son.

    Learning with your son is priceless. Imagine if he became an engineer because he enjoyed makeing things in cad? It's worth the 200 dollars.

    The cheap DIY printers are decent but more work. If he like building it should be fun. Lots of little nuts and bolts so it can be a little tedious to build but satisfying when you get your first print.

    #16 6 years ago

    My son was the only one using the 3D printer at high school and he really showed an interest in the whole design process. He asked me to get this Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2 printer for him last year:

    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860

    Best thing I have ever purchased! The nice thing about thid printer is that it requires very little assembly unlike some others. He did add some extra bracing by printing parts from 3D models already available.

    He has recently done some work for a friend who is doing a custom pinball, I'll see if I can post some pics.

    Be prepared to do a lot of tweaking with the print files and setup of the printer. Temperature, humidity and level will effect the final print outcome.

    Having said that this is a great printer one of the connectors on the main board melted (common problem amongst low cost printers apparently) so be aware of that.

    He is now in his 2nd year at Uni studying mech eng ... he even told me recently that he was glad I got that printer for him and encouraged him ( and he rarely gives me credit for anything lol).

    I suggested he should get a portfolio of his creations and advertise custom pinball parts for Pinsiders in order to to pay for his tuition fees

    #17 6 years ago
    Quoted from woz:

    My son was the only one using the 3D printer at high school and he really showed an interest in the whole design process. He asked me to get this Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2 printer for him last year:
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860
    Best thing I have ever purchased! The nice thing about thid printer is that it requires very little assembly unlike some others. He did add some extra bracing by printing parts from 3D models already available.
    He has recently done some work for a friend who is doing a custom pinball, I'll see if I can post some pics.
    Be prepared to do a lot of tweaking with the print files and setup of the printer. Temperature, humidity and level will effect the final print outcome.
    Having said that this is a great printer one of the connectors on the main board melted (common problem amongst low cost printers apparently) so be aware of that.
    He is now in his 2nd year at Uni studying mech eng ... he even told me recently that he was glad I got that printer for him and encouraged him ( and he rarely gives me credit for anything lol).
    I suggested he should get a portfolio of his creations and advertise custom pinball parts for Pinsiders in order to to pay for his tuition fees

    That maker select looks nice. Is it as clean looking in real life as the picture? My tevo tarantula looks like a mess of wires right now lol

    #18 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mfsrc791:

    Learning with your son is priceless. Imagine if he became an engineer because he enjoyed makeing things in cad? It's worth the 200 dollars.

    He's only 5. He has great spacial perception though, he's been playing Minecraft with me since he was 3. I think it took him like 2 days to learn how to use a xbox 360 controller and play the game, so it is second nature to manipulate 3d objects now. We do far less video games these days, and more hands-on stuff together like legos and whatnot, so I thought this would be a cool way to integrate computer graphics with the physical world.

    #19 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mfsrc791:

    That maker select looks nice. Is it as clean looking in real life as the picture? My tevo tarantula looks like a mess of wires right now lol

    Yes, it is as good as it looks...a nicely assembled unit.

    #20 6 years ago

    I have a 3D printer I bought as a kit from a local maker group, nova-labs. I use tinkercad, which is an online free cad that is really easy to work with, and slic3r, also freeware, for converting the stl file from tinkercad to the gcode file for the printer. Works pretty seamlessly.

    #21 6 years ago

    3D parts will eventually break. Your best bet is to print the part, make a mold, then cast a new one out of more durable materials. You could even cast a new one out of aluminum if you're feeling ambitious.

    #22 6 years ago

    I have an Anet A8, DIY Kit. Usually onsale for 150 bucks. I purchased an upgraded PSU and a MOSFET to handle the higher current of the heated bed. (recommended safety upgrades from the community)

    I eventually built a stand for it out of ikea lack tables, upgraded to a glass/PEI bed, and hooked it to a raspberry pi for wireless printing.

    I've been very impressed with the quality of the prints ive been printing. However it does require frequent tweaking and dialing in to get the prints right. By no means a professional printer, but it has a very large community for help and troubleshooting, and most of the mods to improve it are able to be printed by the printer itself.

    There are some safety concerns about the cheap circuit board connectors melting, and thermal runaway of the extruder nozzle most of which can be googled and fixed with MOSFETs and firmware upgrades. Ive pretty much been printing non-stop with it since I got it 4 months ago with no issues. I would not leave it printing if I was not home though. YMMV

    20171017_211219 (resized).jpg20171017_211219 (resized).jpg

    #23 6 years ago
    Quoted from Renouart:

    I have a 3D printer I bought as a kit from a local maker group, nova-labs. I use tinkercad, which is an online free cad that is really easy to work with, and slic3r, also freeware, for converting the stl file from tinkercad to the gcode file for the printer. Works pretty seamlessly.

    Good info, I just setup an account on tinkercad...thanks

    #24 6 years ago
    Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

    3D parts will eventually break. Your best bet is to print the part, make a mold, then cast a new one out of more durable materials. You could even cast a new one out of aluminum if you're feeling ambitious.

    I was thinking if I could get the part designed, I would have several options...for example one of the on-line services that can print in metal or, as you note, making a mold to cast myself...not sure I'm that ambitious

    #25 6 years ago

    The Monoprice select v2 is currently on sale for $255 with the code 3DSELECT if you are thinking about one. It would be nice to have one at home for initial trials and just have the final part printed in metal online.

    https://slickdeals.net/f/10670792-monoprice-maker-select-3d-v2-printer-254-99

    #26 6 years ago
    Quoted from Oldgoat:

    Sounds like a fair amount of tweaks are needed...were the files for the addons readily available? Also, what software do you use?

    This is typical tweaking and the need to print parts to make the printer better that exists sub $1500. If you want turn key you have to go into that range. I like my printer ($350 one) but using it and keeping it printing high quality parts is it's own hobby. Totally agree that before having shapeways print you a metal one (which will probably be a $100+ print job) you want to iterate some.

    Other options:
    - maybe there's a maker space / fab lab in your community?
    - our public library here now has 3d printers.

    1 week later
    #27 6 years ago

    Well, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Prusa Kit. Should arrive today. I went back and forth on what to get and how much to spend. Read a lot of reviews and this seems to be far and away the best sub $1000 printer. Looks like assembly will take a bit of time; however, there seems to be consensus that assembly is a good thing in that it forces you to understand the machine better so troubleshooting is easier. Anyhow, I ended up spending twice ($600) my budget so hopefully it is worth it.

    Anyhow, I appreciate all the input.

    #28 6 years ago

    You will love the Prusa—just a solid printer.

    #29 6 years ago
    Quoted from pintechev:

    You will love the Prusa—just a solid printer.

    I sure do hope so....actually I just hope I can get together without too much spitting and cussing
    Do you have one?

    #30 6 years ago
    Quoted from Oldgoat:

    I sure do hope so....actually I just hope I can get together without too much spitting and cussing
    Do you have one?

    No, but a number of my friends do and they're all very happy with it. I have a few parts they printed for me and they came out great. If I were to buy one, I would get the Prusa.

    1 week later
    #31 6 years ago

    you will have fun with it and great for proofing a idea / design.

    since the original part was possibly pot metal (die cast zinc) it doesn't have a great tensile strength so depending on the density of a plastic print it might do but you can always take your design (proof of concept) and upload to Shapeways and print in stainless steel though there are some size limits.

    https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=pinball&sort=newest

    out of interest how big the actual part.

    #32 6 years ago

    Here is a picture of the part I created and what a good one looks like It's about 5 1/2 by 3 with the arm sticking out another 1 1/2 or so. Yes the original is pot metal. It doesn't appear to me that the part itself takes on that much stress. As you can see, I made the supports solid (with a hole for the grip of course), which seems to be a better design as it reduces the potential stress on the far bracket of the original design. My guess is that they did not do this originally due to the difficulty of molding the pieces with a hole going through the full length. Since the spring is in the middle and sits against the housing, the plastic doesn't really take a lot of stress. The other area that breaks on the original part is where the arm mounts. Although it is hard to tell if that is due to the stress on the arm or the grip at that point of the bracket. I suspect it is the later; although I did make the arm pretty robust

    gottlieb piece complete (resized).jpggottlieb piece complete (resized).jpg

    IMG_3872 (resized).JPGIMG_3872 (resized).JPG

    3 weeks later
    #33 6 years ago

    PSA: do some research into preventing your printer from catching fire... seriously!

    I don't know if there are issues with the Prusa but my son's Monoprice had a meltdown and it took out a few connectors. Problem is due to high currents, cheap connectors, poor PCB layout and inadequate protection built into the firmware.

    https://hackaday.com/2016/12/07/dont-leave-3d-printers-unattended-they-can-catch-fire/

    The printer is out of warranty but I will still contact Monoprice and see what they say.

    #34 6 years ago

    Simplify 3D is the best 3d printer software hands down. Love it! Matched with a Flashforge Pro dual printing carbon fiber works like magic. Love this technology.

    #35 6 years ago
    Quoted from woz:

    PSA: do some research into preventing your printer from catching fire... seriously!
    I don't know if there are issues with the Prusa but my son's Monoprice had a meltdown and it took out a few connectors. Problem is due to high currents, cheap connectors, poor PCB layout and inadequate protection built into the firmware.
    https://hackaday.com/2016/12/07/dont-leave-3d-printers-unattended-they-can-catch-fire/
    The printer is out of warranty but I will still contact Monoprice and see what they say.

    My first printer was a Monoprice i3 clone (select V2). I eventually had an electric burning smell and shutdown issue with the printer. I opened it up and did some direct soldering to replace bad connections and adjusted the voltage (plenty of people online with this issue to help troubleshoot). Been running flawless since, but there is absolutely a problem with these machines that could lead to a fire (my reading on this would lend me to believe that if there isn't a problem with it, there will be... [if you don't want to open one up and do some soldering, then avoid Monoprice]). As many prints can fail, it's often necessary to monitor a 3D printer regardless.

    I'm currently using a CR-10 as my main printer, and after some modding to the print bed, I'm very happy with how much better it performs over the Monoprice (and size advantage). The Monoprice can do great prints, but it has been way more finicky with certain detailed prints and not as great a range for printing temperatures (have to get the temp just right to succeed and seems to have greater issue switching filament brands/colors compared to CR-10). For example, the fence portion on my JD tower prototypes wouldn't come out right on the Monoprice (despite every other detail coming out great), but the CR-10 did it all as desired.

    #36 6 years ago

    My next printer will be the CR-10... Creality makes a great reasonably priced printer and my Ender-2 is working perfect right now. Did a ton of mods for it but from what I have read the connecters are alway the big question mark.

    #37 6 years ago

    So far, I've been very happy with the Prusa. I may take a look at Simplify 3d; although the software that comes with the Prusa seems to work well. On the other hand, I might look into a better solution than Tinkercad...it is certainly not perfect.

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