With the active cooling of the Tibetan Breeze kit you ordered, you should be good to go - it will eliminate the fade. I would not recommend changing out the coils. I would instead look at optimizing your current setup to correct the coil performance:

1. Check EOS isn't triggering before flipper is at peak (use switch test and manually move flipper slowly and note when EOS triggers - adjust if it's before the flipper is at peak)
2. Check coil stop (REMOVE it and try to move the middle - visual inspection sometimes looks good when it's not)
3. Check coil sleeve for free movement.
4. Wax the playfield with a carnuba wax like P21S. Buff with lambswool pad.
5. Check that flipper switch blades at the flipper buttons are making solid contact when the button is depressed (both levels if there are 2 flippers on a side) instead of BARELY making contact which can cause the coils to flutter power and feel weak.
6. Check coil resistance with a multimeter (ohms setting) to make sure you don't have a bad or out of spec coil robbing you of power.
7. Check power settings in system menu for coils. With active cooling, you can afford to turn this up to give more power. (you did this, but for posterity's sake of other people with the same idea, adding to the checklist).

Here's a Stern coil strength chart, most to least (part, resistance in ohms, windings, wire gauge):
090-5020 3.4 900 22
090-5032 4.3 1080 22
090-5030 5.1 1100 23
090-5025 9.5 1570 24

For your vertical ramp, slo-mo it with a cell phone video and see if there's something about the ball entry that's robbing it of power.

Do this instead of changing out coils. Too-strong coils break stuff faster. Not a good idea, especially since you now have the active cooling covered to keep the performance consistent once you get it dialed in.

DONT DO IT

Indeed! AIQ's game/note code was designed based around the stock flippers. Swapping out the coils for more powerful ones could blow a node or the coil.

If you want faster play, then wax your playfield. That will get the ball zooming faster than you'll ever imagine.

I think it's very unlikely to blow a node or coil (they don't customize node boards per machine, and this node is in other machines with bigger coils), but it CAN break stuff on your playfield with stronger shots than it was designed to handle.

Wax is a great suggestion I forgot. Too obvious. D'oh.

I think it is generally ill-advised to deviate from OEM specs in most situations (I assume the professionals who designed the circuit are smarter than I, a marginally capable hobbyist).

The original coils were carefully selected in order to achieve the gameplay desired by the designer, and as PinMonk stated when you go in and simply dial everything up to “11” you’ll put unnecessary strain on a variety of parts and things will start breaking prematurely, and you can also conceivably screw up other aspects of gameplay in ways you might not be able to anticipate.

If the flipper as originally specified isn’t performing adequately, the first thing to do is to check everything PinMonk suggested, and given your pattern of playing definitely consider adding forced cooling. You also might consider simply doing a full flipper rebuild; your game is old enough that there is probably sufficient overall wear to reduce performance, and replacing all the consumable parts en masse (cheap and not difficult) will yield a noticeable improvement that will almost definitely feel like an “upgrade”.

Just wanted to amen PinMonk post, especially the EOS switch adjustment. You can get a lot of extra oomph by getting those right.

The damage to playfield components from too-strong coils doesn't happen immediately, but over time. If you turned the power down, that's good, but using the stock coils and doing the stuff on the list probably would have achieved the same result with less wear and tear on the machine over time.

But it's your machine for YOUR amusement to do with as you wish.

Makes post asking should I do this? Dozens say NO! Next post, I did it!

I agree with him---it's not a problem --just have to cut diodes. That being said I have the cooling fans and keep it waxed and it's good. I can see the advantage of changing coils though--the shots are are all at the back of the game. Also the CM shot would be more consistent. May try eventually.

Are you Tempa Tec on YouTube? Enjoy your vids

Your game, your rules

Although it is worth noting by using a stronger coil, ie one with a lower resistance, it will heat up faster and more quickly fade than the stock coil. So the active cooling is definitely a must with the stronger coil. (I wonder how long till people start to liquid cool their coils. Only half joking)

lately my upper left flipper seems to have no strength to go up the loop and the right ramp....has this happened to anyone else? how can it be solved? I already uploaded the force to the maximum in the menu but it seems that it does not solve anything... greetings....

Replace the coil stop. Stern's coil stops are so cheaply made that then can easily deform.

Yes....this IS the problem...

IMG_20221018_140448 (resized).jpg

How are things doing now, 11 months later?

I bought a Godzilla Premium NIB and from the start I felt the flippers are weak (right from the start, before coils get hot so not flipper fade). Done most of the steps on Pinmonks list without result. I hade a TMNT Pro before and the flippers were so snappy and nice, really miss that. I find your solution very appealing as it makes sense that it´s all about the coils. (I also have a weird feeling that Stern Pro´s have more snappy flippers than the Premiums.)

Godzilla uses a mix of coil strengths, where TMNT uses the same coil size for both flippers. That may be where your perception of comparative weakness is coming from. It's also good to check the resistance of your coils when they're dead cold to make sure you don't have a defective coil for the strong one on GZ and the weaker stock coil on for the other side, giving you the perception of two weak coils.

Also, look carefully at your flipper switches inside the cabinet by the button. If that contact point (looks like a dot on the end of the switch blades) is uneven, it won't make good contact (poor/not full surface area), even if the blades are close enough for it to touch properly, and will make the flippers feel weak.

Thanks for the tip Pinmonk! Just out of curiosity, why are there different coils in Pro vs Premium? And what do the diods do?

I'm not aware of flipper coil differences in Pro and Premium trim levels, just differences between actual different machine models (i.e. GZ to AIQ, Maiden to RUSH). It's up to the designer which coils he feels the machine needs.

The diode (either physically one the coil or on the board that drives the coil) is just to make sure that current only flows TO the coil and doesn't surge back up the line and damage the components it's connected to.