(Topic ID: 67453)

Adventures in Budget Restoration: 1978 Bally PARAGON

By nedreud

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

I got my project 1978 Bally Paragon on Good Friday 2013 for the princely sum of £150. It was sold as seen and a known non-worker. But the very nice "Dave" who helped with the sale does pin repair in his spare time and he checked over a few bits: the power supply was ok, as was the voltage regulator and displays. Just the MPU (motherboard) appeared to be lifeless but had the usual battery corrosion.

Here she is the day she arrived:

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I've been tinkering ever since and have managed to rebuild the power supply and bring the MPU back from the dead! Now that I'm really getting stuck in I wanted to record my progress for posterity and hopefully help (and get help from) the pinball community. As I wrote in my intro, I'm not a rich man but I'm capable, persistent and a perfectionist, so there will probably be some very odd things happening with this pin. Could be worth watching...

Fingers crossed I'll be able to do right by this pin and live up to its name.

Post edited by nedreud : Fixed error in purchase price (£150 not £100)

#7 10 years ago

Before

For reference, here are a few pics of what I started with back in May 2013:

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Paragon: overview by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: cabinet front by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: middle playfield by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Power supply board by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: MPU corrosion by staticboy, on Flickr

#13 10 years ago

Thank you, everyone! I've been at this since March 2013 so I've got quite a lot of updates to come. Expect a bit of a flurry over the next few days...

#14 10 years ago

The next few post are going to be a bit of a retrospective from my point of view and will make it look like I'm working really fast.

April-May 2013
Rebuild and Upgrade AS-2518-18 RECTIFIER BOARD ASSEMBLY

It all looked a bit dodgy to me; missing fuse, hard-wired connector hack, strange auxiliary power feed using automotive crimp connectors, burnt pins, singed components and general grot:

farm9.staticflickr.com_8403_8669550614_22ca3d569b_c[1].jpgfarm9.staticflickr.com_8403_8669550614_22ca3d569b_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Transformer module by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Hack wiring by staticboy, on Flickr

Stripped everything off except the fuse holders as I thought they didn't look too bad and would see how they cleaned up. Labelled each wire carefully as I removed it from the underside:

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Paragon: Labelling wires by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Rectifier underside by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Rectifier topside by staticboy, on Flickr

Large bag of replacement parts from MOUSER UK:

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Paragon: Electronic goodies from Mouser by staticboy, on Flickr

Pulling off components and removing as much old solder as possible with a manual pump:

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Paragon: Rectifier clean-up by staticboy, on Flickr

All the grot left over:

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Paragon: Old rectifier parts by staticboy, on Flickr

End result of removing all the components. Many of the stand-alone copper tracks lifted off the board, especially on the underside where the totally inadequate 8A bridge rectifiers were mounted:

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Paragon: Rectifier board underside by staticboy, on Flickr

After a good clean-up with fibreglass pencil and some Dremel work with a brass brush on the fuse holders I started to test fit the new uprated 400V 35A bridge rectifiers. Due to their size these are now mounted on the top-side and will each get their own heatsinks:

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Paragon: Test fitting rectifiers by staticboy, on Flickr

Improvements are repairs to the track-work both top and bottom. The upgrades help improve the conductive areas for the ground lines:

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Paragon: PSU repairs and upgrades by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: 0.156" header pins by staticboy, on Flickr

Re-fitting new components. Because of the new bridge rectifiers I "floated" the power resistors and kept them proud of the PCB surface to improve airflow and cooling:

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Paragon: Rectifier board by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Bridges + heatsinks by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: PSU Heatsinks by staticboy, on Flickr

I then did a lot of work with increasing grades of wet'n'dry paper and AUTOSOL to polish the A2 POWER TRANSFORMER MODULE mounting plate:

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Paragon: PSU bracket #7 by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Final polish on PSU by staticboy, on Flickr

And I polished up the transformer and it's brackets too:

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Paragon: Final polish on PSU by staticboy, on Flickr

So glad I numbered those wires!!!

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Paragon: Re-wiring the PSU by staticboy, on Flickr

And this is the end result: one clean, shiny but most importantly sufficiently rated A2 POWER TRANSFORMER MODULE (which got rid of quite a lot of hum):

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Paragon: PSU Assembled by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: PSU finished by staticboy, on Flickr

Time to put in all the correctly rated fuses:

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Paragon: New fuses by staticboy, on Flickr

And put it back where it belongs. And yes, I did replace all the burnt Molex connectors!

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Paragon: PSU re-fitted into backbox by staticboy, on Flickr

#15 10 years ago

April-May 2013
Resurrect the AS-2518-35 MPU MODULE

The one thing I knew for certain when I bought Paragon was that the MPU wasn't working. Dave2084 reassured me it was nearly always possible to fix these boards and that this one didn't look too bad. As I now know it's almost de facto in this era of machines for the MPU to suffer from battery corrosion damage. This one got away fairly lightly because I think the back-box had been stored on its side. The damage is along the bottom edge as usual but mostly to the right-hand corner and up the right-hand side. In the back-box the corrosion was on the right-hand mounting bracket and further over to the right towards the voltage regulator board.

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Paragon: MPU A4 AS-2518-35 by staticboy, on Flickr

To make testing nice and easy I realised it would be best to get it out of the cabinet and onto the bench. To do this I needed a stand-alone power supply and I didn't really want to use the one out of the machine itself - too many high voltages, uncovered live wires, etc. Then I came across this site:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/

It's in Dutch (which you can translate in-line if you use the Google Chrome web browser) but if you dig around you'll find a truly awesome repository of information in English about fixing old Bally SS machines:

Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985

One nugget of info from there is to use an old ATX computer power supply to supply the +5V and +12V required to power the MPU. Computers are my living so I've got plenty of these lying around. This one was pulled from a slimline Dell desktop:

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Paragon: Spare Dell ATX PSU
by staticboy, on Flickr

I then snipped off one of the floppy-drive power connectors and used a choccy block to connect three test leads with spring-loaded clips (Black = Ground, Red = +5V, Yellow = +12V):

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Paragon: +5V, +12V and GND by staticboy, on Flickr

To switch an ATX PSU on you need to take Pin 14 (Green) low, i.e., to Ground. To make this easy I stuffed a long-tailed toggled switch between Pins 14 and 15. This is on the older 20-pin Molex connector. If you have a more recent 24-pin connector just bridge Pins 16 and 17. Pinout info on Wikipedia.

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Paragon: On-Off Switch on Pins 14-15 of 20-pin ATX PSU by staticboy, on Flickr

Test fixture ready to go... Black (Ground) clips onto TP4, Red (+5V) clips on TP5 and Yellow (+12V) clips onto TP2 (not TP3 right next to it which is part of the circuit to detect the +43V solenoid power):

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Paragon: MPU Test Setup by staticboy, on Flickr

Switch it on and... just a constant green light on the CR8 test LED:

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Paragon: Test LED by staticboy, on Flickr

It was at this point I pulled all the chips from their sockets and reseated them. Still the same. So then I simply spent a long time using the digital multimeter to check the continuity between ground and anywhere I knew it should be by consulting the circuit diagram, e.g., Pin 1 of chips U10 and U11. Oh... BINGO! Dead track caused by corrosion right underneath where the battery was located:

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Paragon: Broken Track by staticboy, on Flickr

Fixed this by bridging with some tinned copper wire and plenty of solder. Switched it back on and... WOOHOO! [B]TWO FLASHES!!![/B]

Two flashes tells you something is wrong with chip U8, the 5101 static RAM (used for storing game settings, high scores, etc.) I replaced with a new one from Pinball Mania and after a false start bending one of the pins and missing its socket I progressed to THREE FLASHES!!!

Here's the new chip (Philips PCD5101P) in a new turned-pin socket and you can see my repair to the ground line in the lower-right:

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Paragon: New U8 5101P by staticboy, on Flickr

The next two test flashes relate to chips U10 and U10 the 6820 PIA (Peripheral Interface Adapters). These guys allow the processor U9, a classic Motorola 6800 CPU, to communicate with the outside world (in the case of pinballs this means lamps, switches and solenoids). I tried swapping U10 and U11 over but no change so time for a pair of new chips. I got some 6821s - these are functional equivalents for the 6820 but have some extra TTL "stuff" that isn't used. Once fitted SIX FLASHES ahoy! Final seventh flash should show when the +43VDC for the solenoids is connected (this has to come from the main power supply in the pinball machine itself).

Of course, this meant that I was tantalisingly close to proving that I have fully working MPU! Temptation was too great. It simply had to go back in the machine:

FIRST SWITCH ON!

This is the first time I switched the machine on and let it run. I then opened the coin door and pressed the test button to first flash the switched illumination, then cycle the displays (not shown), then test the solenoids and finally run the sound. And it ALL WORKS! Well... got quite a few missing lamps and one of my pop bumbers has no ring...

Lots of lights!

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Paragon: Playfield GI by staticboy, on Flickr

Which of course inevitably led to playing my first game and getting my first high score:

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Paragon: MY FIRST HIGH SCORE! by staticboy, on Flickr

HAPPY DAYS!

#17 10 years ago

May 2013
Bits'n'Bobs

Along with the replacement 5101 chip I ordered some other bits. Most important of all, my first pinball:

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Paragon: New pinball! by staticboy, on Flickr

Along with new back-box bolts:

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Paragon: Backbox bolts by staticboy, on Flickr

And therein lies a tale...

Whilst fitting the new bolts I found the rear-left one wouldn't tighten all the way down by about 2mm.

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Paragon: Bolting on the backbox by staticboy, on Flickr

Turns out I had two pairs of different bolts:

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Paragon: Mis-matched bolts by staticboy, on Flickr

The very slight difference in thread length and overall length meant that one type wouldn't quite tighten down when used in the rear holes.

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Paragon: Mis-matched bolts by staticboy, on Flickr

Both types are marked "307A" but there were two of each marked "HKT" and "CYI" which I guessed are manufacturer codes (both Chinese bolt makers as it turns out). One type had slightly longer threading (~2mm) and was about 1mm longer. Basically, the same bolt from different manufactures that are identical within fairly loose tolerances. Found out that the code 307A on a bolt head indicates that the fastener properties conform to the ASTM A307 Grade A Standard. Whatever. Just one of the many gotchas you'd never think of until it happens.

#18 10 years ago

May 2013
Power Supply Safety Guard

Inside the back-box there is a simple wire mesh that covers the high voltage terminals on the transformer to protect operators from accidental electrocution. As with most parts in this pin it had developed a fine surface rust. But nothing that 20 minutes with a 3" wire brush in a standard electric drill can't fix. After a good clean-up and rinse with isopropyl alcohol I primed with black plasti-kote SUPER PRIMERP and then hit it with 3 or 4 very light coats of Halfords Satin Black:

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Paragon: Black spray paint by staticboy, on Flickr

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image by staticboy, on Flickr

And I'm very pleased with the result!

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Paragon: Transformer safety guard by staticboy, on Flickr

#19 10 years ago

June-September 2013
Research & Development: Playfield Restoration

My plan for the playfield doesn't involve a paint brush! Actually, I'm okay with a paint brush for detail work as I'm quite into Warhammer 40K and railway modelling.

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I can do airbrushing too, and I've read several blogs about restoring playfields using a "mask & spray" technique but almost without exception the playfields being restored have relatively simple geometric or straight-edged designs with block colours. There's an excellent guide to exactly this sort of restoration on pinside.com.

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

Vid1900 is very opinionated but seems to know what he's talking about. The topic starts up with info about replacing inserts, the details about airbrushing start about halfway down page 2. It's worth reading through at least once, it's stuffed full of good tips.

This simply isn't the case with Paragon which has some of the most detailed 10-colour screen-printed images to adorn a playfield (Paragon is probably most famous for it's beautiful artwork and many consider it one of the most beautiful pins ever made). Any attempt to hand re-paint it would be obvious. And I think that even with a water-slide decal of the top black screen layer it would still be too difficult to recreate the other 9 colours convincingly. The screen process creates a myriad of edge effects as the different colours overlap. My playfield simply has too much wear and the planking is so bad you can scratch the paint off down to bare wood with a finger nail. Where I gained on the underside (the hardware is in superb condition) I lost out on the topside. I can't complain - I got a working classic pinball machine for £150! Makes me smile every time I look at it

The chances of getting a NOS or A1 replacement are practically nil, and the last NOS that sold on eBay went for around $1,400 (nearly £900). That's probably double what I'm going to spend on this entire project! There is rumour that CPR (http://classicplayfields.com/) might be working on Paragon as they've done both plastics and backglass previously but again that's a lot of wonga and likely a very long wait.

So, the only other choice as I see it is an overlay. My take on it is that the original playfield is totally b*ggered and is beyond saving. If I use it as the base for an overlay and it works then at least it's mostly original. I can hear the cries of "Blasphemy!" already! But seriously, how else am I supposed to fix this:

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Paragon: playfield centre - bonus score by staticboy, on Flickr

But how to make an overlay? It's just a giant sticker, right? I just need a image of the playfield and someone with a big printer. After some Googling and conversation on http://pinside.com/ I managed to obtain a hi-res scan of a NOS playfield:

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Super Hi-Res Scan of Paragon Playfield by staticboy, on Flickr

That's got to be the hard part, right? From this image the first thing I did was knock out the best print my £20 Canon inkjet printer could manage on standard copier paper, making sure it was scaled at exactly 100% without reducing resolution:

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Paragon: Test overlay by staticboy, on Flickr

Now come on! That's pretty impressive for a £20 printer from Asda! The scale is perfect. The aqua blue is spot on and the blacks dark. The yellow is a bit pale and the brown is way off, but not bad for a first test. Next, I tried the same experiment but this time using my Dad's colour laser printer on full glossy photo card stock. Unfortunately the stupid printer scaled the image to fit the A4 paper edge-to-edge so it's about 5% over-scaled:

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Paragon: High quality test overlay by staticboy, on Flickr

Look at that! I can easily imagine that's the final finish, shiny clear coat and all:

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Paragon: High quality test overlay by staticboy, on Flickr

I have to admit I was seriously impressed with the print quality. Really crisp, no pixelation or dithering at all, and the colours are much better. With the two simple tests I decided it was time to go pro and order some test decals from an on-line service. I decided to try http://www.diginate.com/ first as you can order stickers/decals of any size or quantity, even singles.

First test, white vinyl with glossy (top) and matte (bottom) finish:

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Paragon: Test overlay vinyl stickers by staticboy, on Flickr

Admittedly, I wasn't too impressed with the result. There was even a little printer striping in the red. But I pressed on and experimented with clear-coating these samples to see how they would come out. Big improvement! Each sticker was also done with a different image. The top decal on glossy was done with a JPEG image and you can see in the image below there's slight dithering. The bottom decal on matte used a vectorised version of the image saved as a PNG. Vectorising the image attempts to turn areas into a solid block of a single colour thus minimising the dither of compressed image formats such as JPEG and keeping edges sharp. It also makes the images totally scalable without loss of resolution. I won't go into the technical details of vector images - I'm you're all half asleep at this point already.

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Paragon: Clear coat testing by staticboy, on Flickr

The colours look better and the gloss from the clear-coat! Ooh! Next test: clear vinyl. I realised that one disadvantage of using white vinyl is that although it's a good base to get vivid rich colours I'd have to cut holes for the inserts, re-level the inserts and re-decal the insert lettering. With clear vinyl there's no need to do any of this. Diginate.com allow you provide a [I]masking layer[/I] in your artwork to control where they first print a white layer before applying any colour.

And here it is:

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Paragon: Clear vinyl overlay test by staticboy, on Flickr

The colour is even better than the white vinyl and the transparent areas for the inserts have come out really well. Annoyingly I don't seem to have taken a photo of this decal in situ on the playfield, but it did look really good. The colours are a near perfect match even though they'd been reduced from RGB to CMYK (another technical detail concerning print reproductions). I recently stuck it on an off-cut of white Conti board and gave it a few coats of clear. It does look good! Will try to get a photo tomorrow in daylight.

So that's my plan. Get a ruddy huge clear vinyl sticker made to completely overlay the entire playfield in a single piece and then get it clear-coated (possibly professionally). Final cost of the decal from diginate.com will be around £50 delivered.

#22 10 years ago

Very minor disaster. After having a little clear-out of my home office and workshop it appears that I have accidentally binned the off-cut of white Conti board onto which I'd stuck and clear-coated the clear vinyl sticker.

Nuts...

But in an almost impossibly improbable twist of fate a good condition Paragon playfield based in the UK has appeared on ebay.co.uk!

Now I'm in a real quandary because I was rather excited about my idea but a very good condition original playfield that only requires minor touch-ups would surely be the better thing to do?

Decisions, decisions...

Well, I've set a budget to bid on the playfield, so now it's fate. If someone else wants it more than me then so be it. Either way it'll cost me that same for a better playfield.

Roll on Sunday.

2 weeks later
#23 10 years ago

In the end I decided not to bid on the Paragon playfield that was listed on eBay UK. The opening price of £95 wasn't far off what I paid for my Paragon altogether and once I saw the hi-res images it wasn't in excellent condition. It was good, but not A+ and would have needed lots of minor touch-ups. So onwards with my plan to do my own overlay...

#25 10 years ago

Thanks for the help and advice. I'll definitely being doing a full-size 1 print on paper first to check for overall accuracy. The small decal samples were really just to test the feasibility and quality of the vinyl printing, and to make sure it didn't do anything nasty like dissolve when sprayed with clear-coat!

Quoted from Pafasa:

I don't think you are actually starting with a flat scan, but rather a corrected photo.

The image is definitely a scan of a NOS playfield and not a corrected photograph. It was done using the now discontinued HP ScanJet 4600 See-Thru Flat-Bed scanner, like this: http://amzn.com/B0000C9ZJR. Admittedly it had to be scanned in multiple A4-size passes that were then stitched together using Photoshop, but if you can find the joins in the image you're welcome to find a better image for me to start with!

An overlay is never going to be a perfect replica of the original. There is one way to achieve a perfect replica: re-create the 10 silk-screens and inks as used originally, and print a new playfield (and have a few beers whilst doing it to make sure each colour is just slightly off-register!) That just isn't going to happen on my budget! The only other perfect replacement would be a NOS playfield. Again, on my budget, that isn't going to happen either! But for the cost vs. quality ratio I'm confident my idea will come out pretty good for all but the closest scrutiny.

#26 10 years ago

May-June 2013
BITS'N'BOBS

Another little jumbled selection of things!

A little international eBay purchase from the USA: a pair of brand-new reproduction old-school mini-flippers. Total cost just under £13 ($21). I only need one left-hand "FLIPPER" which sits half way up the playfield by the entrance to the VALLEY OF DEMONS:

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Paragon: New mini-flippers by staticboy, on Flickr

On my machine this had been replaced with an incorrect transparent red mini-flipper:

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Paragon: New mini-flippers by staticboy, on Flickr

A member of the ukpinball Yahoo Group contacted me to see if I needed any Paragon spares, but I already had what he was offering. But after a chat he ended up giving me the remnants of a very rotten Paragon playfield which had been stored and left to rot in a shipping container for years. Such a sad sight as it had been in better condition than my playfield but thought there would be a few salvageable parts as it was was still fully-populated on the underside:

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Paragon: Donor playfield (topside) by staticboy, on Flickr

He also gave me a big bag of star posts and a bunch of parts to fix my missing pop bumper:

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Paragon: Spare star posts by staticboy, on Flickr

One of the other small temporary jobs I did was to fit a lock onto the coin door. I was going to leave this last as a sort of ceremonial final act of completion but I got fed up with the door always swinging open!

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Paragon: New coin door lock by staticboy, on Flickr

I also borrowed a polishing tumbler from a friend (a Lyman Turbo PRO 1200). Here's the result of tumbling a random selection of fairly grotty parts:

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Paragon: Tumbler test batch by staticboy, on Flickr

Some parts better than others. The lamp holder from a pop bumper just ended up caked in red rouge as did most of the screws - they'll be easier to buff on the polishing wheel. But parts like the pop bumper rings, tilt ball and springs all showed a massive improvement. I'll definitely be borrowing it again!

#27 10 years ago

September 2013
PLAYFIELD STRIPDOWN

I didn't get much done during July, August and most of September (school holiday and birthdays, etc.) but late September I started to strip the playfield.

I started with the topside with the playfield still inside the cabinet. After taking off the obvious top layer of accessories, such as plastics and bumper caps, I set about taking dozens of reference photos so I know how it all goes back together. I took apart each area/feature one at a time, taking lots of photos and keeping all the parts, nuts, bolts, screws, posts and gates in clearly labelled zip-bags:

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Paragon: Playfield Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

A few interesting things turned up. Paragon seems to make use of quite a few nails here and there, such as these in the slingshots:

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Paragon: Strip-down reference photos by staticboy, on Flickr

Measuring the height of wire guides:

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Paragon: Strip-down reference photos by staticboy, on Flickr

Some restoration guides note that wire guides can have crimped or knurled ends which can split the wood when removed. I can confirm this is not the case on PARAGON. In fact, the wire guides were easily removed pulling by hand so no concerns denting the surface using a lever (not that the surface of my playfield is worth protecting):

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Paragon: Playfield Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

The trade-mark Greg Kmiec solid-red post supporting the spinner arch. See http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/redpost/redpost.html for what this is all about!

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Paragon: Playfield Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

The troublesome plastic deflector and metal deadening plate for the TREASURE CHAMBER saucer. Again, another interesting little tale for all you design nerds out there: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1755/Bally_1979_Paragon_Greg_Kmiec_Discusses_Treasure_Chamber_Design.pdf

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Paragon: Playfield Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

Registration marks for the various screen print colours showing just how far out some of the layers can be. That pink is off by nearly 3mm both horizontally and vertically. This is what leads to some interesting edge effects where the different colours overlap by a noticeable amount when they shouldn't.

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Paragon: Playfield Details by staticboy, on Flickr

Oops! I guess I need to update the title of my Shop Log:

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Paragon: Playfield Details by staticboy, on Flickr

#28 10 years ago

October 2013
BACKBOX STRIPDOWN

Time to start taking this bad-boy apart:

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Paragon: Backbox Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

Again, clear labelling and lots of reference photos as I take things apart, this time unsoldering the wiring loom for the GI and indicator lamps:

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Paragon: Backbox Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Backbox Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

Next, time to pick off the wiring and lamp holders. This was a slow process as everything is just stapled onto the board! My preference will be to keep the existing wiring:

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Paragon: Backbox Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

Then a quick repair using a liberal application of EVO-STIK Wood PVA to this small piece which I think is a light shield for the "MATCH" indicator on the backglass but makes a very handy handle when opening and closing the inner door (which is probably why it snapped off):

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Paragon: Backbox Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Backbox Stripdown by staticboy, on Flickr

Then onto the sanding. For this I hit it with my evil belt sander fitted with 180 grit. Took all of 2-3 minutes to cut the original paint/primer back to the wood (it took a lot longer to do all the holes and fiddly bits in between by hand):

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Paragon: Illumination board sanding by staticboy, on Flickr

After sanding there were several areas where the surface layer of ply had come away (caused by the rather rough and forceful drilling of holes). These areas were filled with Polycell Polyfilla Trade One Fill. I love this stuff. It's sold as a "trade" product and is so easy to use. Has the consistency of cream cheese but light as a feather. Dries very quickly when thin, even over-paintable in 15 minutes! And pretty tough too. I wouldn't use it to rebuild cabinet corners but it's fine everywhere else:

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Paragon: Illumination Board Filler by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Illumination Board Filler by staticboy, on Flickr

After more sanding with finer grit and a wipe down with tack rag and alcohol it was time to put on the first coat of combination primer/undercoat. I'll do 3 to 4 coats with a light sand between each followed by 2 coats of pure satin white for maximum reflectivity:

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Paragon: Illumination board primed by staticboy, on Flickr

#34 10 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

So. OP, would you consider sharing the final adjusted file you use to print the overlay?

I didn't do the scan myself. It was given to me by another Pinside member. I'd better check that they're happy for me to share their work before I post a download link.

#36 10 years ago

October 2013
BACKBOX STRIPDOWN cont.

One of the more tedious jobs on my list... cleaning the lamp holders for the backbox GI. For some reason they all look like this, covered in a white powdery oxidation:

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Paragon: Backbox GI chain by staticboy, on Flickr

As this is a budget restoration I can't possibly justify spending £1.20 (~$1.90) replacing each holder when there are 40 of them in the backbox alone (grand total £48.00 (~$77)). If any are unserviceable then I'll replace them. It's another hot potato of debate on various pinball boards with good arguments on both sides of the restore or replace camps.

One common problem seems to be getting a good contact between the spring and the brass rivet at the bottom. One suggestion is to permanently fix the spring in place with solder. And re-oxidation after cleaning can cause issues but I'm sure some switch cleaner will help with that as it prevents as well as removes oxidation. Only time will tell but I ain't rushing to blow half a ton on ruddy bulb holders just yet!

Each holder takes about 2-3 minutes work with my copy Dremel mini-tool, first with a steel brass brush for the outside and then a sanding drum for the inside. By fitting the sanding drum proud of the holder the hollow end clears the spring on the inside so I can clean right down inside and not fudge the spring:

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Paragon: Backbox GI chain by staticboy, on Flickr

Here you can clearly see the bottom of the contact spring sitting in its brass rivet. The sockets cleaned up really nice! I bet the current flow to the bulbs has been significantly improved after removing all the crud!

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Paragon: Backbox GI chain by staticboy, on Flickr

Only another 35 to go... [YAWN]

Post edited by nedreud : Changed from steel to brass brush!

#37 10 years ago
Quoted from nedreud:

...spending £1.20 (~$1.90) replacing each holder...

Interesting to note the HUGE difference in price between US and UK parts suppliers. I know it's not surprising really as pinball is a very US-centric creation and industry, but it is a bit wearisome.

For example, the price of £1.20 GBP I listed for the backbox lamp holders was from the UK-based seller http://www.pinballmania.co.uk/ and at current exchange rates that's about $1.90 USD. By contrast the same parts are available from http://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html for just $0.66. That's a third of the price.

#39 10 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

You could dunk the entire wire/holder assembly in a solution of CLR and then rinse with water and dry with compressed air. You wouldn't get the shiny results you have with the dremel, but electrically it will do the same job and the oxidation will be handled very well.

Sounds interesting... but what's CLR?

#46 10 years ago

I incorrectly stated in my post that I used a steel brush, when in fact I was using a brass one. This is less aggressive than steel and (fingers crossed) less likely to remove the zinc/nickel coating. I used a very gentle action on the slowest speed my drill (EVERISE 18V Mini Grinder Set from Maplin (N14BG)) has at ~8,000 RPM.

To prevent/slow further oxidation I will give a quick wipe over with some switch cleaner (Maplin Switch Cleaner 200ml (N62AN)) although I have been looking into an interesting product specifically designed to both prevent oxidation, lubricate and improve electrical conductivity: NO-OX-ID. This stuff is yonks old has a seemingly impressive history. It seems a little goes a long way: one application is to prevent oxidation on model railway tracks (another hobby of mine that I do know something about!) and the blurb reckons 1/4 teaspoon will treat 500 feet of rails!

You gotta love the retro website too...!

2 months later
#51 10 years ago

January 2014
FLIPPERS

After a thoroughly wet and miserable winter I have finally emerged from my hibernation and ventured back out to the summerhouse/home-office. Time to dust off my tools and get restoring again. The backbox is still in progress along several lines. The displays are done as are most of the lamp holders. I removed the earth braid, circuit board brackets, various fixings and carefully un-stapled the foil shield. I'll do a separate write-up on the details as things start to come together.

But to really get back into the swing of things I decided to "treat" myself to some real pinball renovation: FLIPPERS.

I started by removing the lower right-hand flipper from the underside of the playfield. First I took several reference photos of the wiring and then unsoldered the coil connections. Next an Allen key was required to undo the 2 grub screws (Set Screw M-1369) that lock the flipper shaft into the lever arm (A-3711-3). Pull the flipper out from the topside, then undo four retaining screws that hold the entire assembly A-1587-102 to the playfield:

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

And the underside. Yuck!

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Undo the two screws holding the coil bracket (P-108-53) and slide out the plunger & link assembly (A-3714-1). Note the coil he has slipped sideways because there was only one lose screw holding in the coil stop!

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Coil (AQ-25-500 34-4500) looks good!

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

End of the plunger and coil stop could be better but not particularly mushroomed. I'll see how they go for now.

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Bearing (C-649-53) wasn't cracked but seen better days, and I'd already picked up some new ones at UK Pinball Party 2013:

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Double switch assembly prior to removal (Paragon has double flippers so extra NO EOS switch to activate upper flipper):

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Flipper stop (P-6665-444):

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Coil bracket (P-108-53) and spring washer (P-1158-6):

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Complete plunger & link assembly (A-3714-1):

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

All the original parts laid out roughly in the position they fit to the bracket:

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Mounting bracket top and bottom (P-6264-134):

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Mounting bracket after a little Autosol:

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

And then after a little work with my metal polishing kit (a kit of 3 wheels/mops that fit onto a standard electric drill):

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

Next I moved on to the leaf switches. Here are the parts "exploded" in assembly order for ASW-A10-45 (the NO part of the EOS):

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

And then after a little TLC with some Autosol and sandpaper:

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

At this point I started putting the flipper assembly back together by mounting the brand new bearing (C-649-53) with screws (SFPP-00832-1106) that I buffed to mirror finish. Also polished and refitted is the switch bracket P-126-718:

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Paragon: Flipper rebuild by staticboy, on Flickr

That's all I got for now. I did take the buffing wheel to everything else but haven't taken any photos yet. More to come in FLIPPERS PT.2!

#52 10 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Is the machine finished?

I wish!

It's been a bit slow over the winter. My pinball is in a wooden summerhouse and although it's insulated it still costs a small fortune to heat with an electric fan heater. I did wonder if it was the best environment for a pinball machine (not that I've got anywhere else for it to go) but it seems perfectly happy. Dry as bone. Snug as a bug in a rug.

#53 10 years ago
Quoted from ChadTower:

Are those sanded off metal parts just going to corrode again fairly quickly? That's what always happens when I sand off exposed metal and leave it bare.

It's a possibility, but it depends how hard you go at them. I used a brass brush very gently on a slow speed, basically just a buff and polish. No metal grinding! Although the zinc/nickel electro-plating is very thin it's reasonably durable.

Quoted from ChadTower:

That's what I'm thinking. What are they originally coated with? Obviously that sort of corrosion takes either years or a beach type environment. They have to be coated with something from the factory.

Quoted from Pafasa:

Zinc or Nickel coatings from the factory. Sanding removes that coating and exposes the metal to oxygen. The CLR will be less harsh in this situation.

The whole point of the zinc/nickel coating to is stop the steel underneath rusting. It's far less susceptible to oxidation (it's taken 35 years to reach the current state they're in). Yes, it will eventually oxidise but this effectively forms a stable barrier. But it's rather ugly and causes conductivity problems in itself, hence why I'm cleaning them all up! I haven't as yet treated the clean holders with anything and they look exactly the same as when I did them 4 months ago! I have ordered some NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade, which is a conductive grease and electrical lubricant. You apply a tiny amount over the surface to prevent corrosion and improve conductivity. It's awesome stuff.

This CLR sounds like interesting stuff. Will have to track some down in the UK...

Quoted from ChadTower:

I suppose if you were to stuff a paper towel in there and spray everything else it might work. Only the spring needs to move. The rest may as well be an insulated connection. By the time you sand it and do that, though, you're bordering on a level of effort that might just make more sense to replace all of the sockets.
Especially given that these are Bally sockets and are probably going to be wonky no matter what.

The old time vs. effort conundrum! I have plenty of time but money is limited, hence the budget restoration. It would be nice to replace the holders but prices for spares are 3 to 4 times higher in the UK. And given their flaky reputation the new ones would probably be just as dodgy as the originals!

2 months later
#56 9 years ago
Quoted from Spybryon:

Any chance someone can point me to the high resolution Paragon scan? A newly acquired Paragon badly needs a waterslide decal to be printed for the center area.

In my Dropbox: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5142417/ParagonCompleteStitch150DPICropFix.jpg

2 weeks later
#59 9 years ago

February 2014
A8 SOUND MODULE UPGRADE

I hope this isn't going to be a case of "Don't fix what ain't broke" but using the parts listed in Big Daddy's Bally AS-2518-50 Sound Module Capacitor Kit as a guide I've done a little maintenance and upgrading on the sound board. The sound always worked after I got Paragon working again but very occasionally it would fire a "squeaky fart" instead of convincing ping, so maybe it's got a duff component. Electrolytic capacitors are known for not lasting forever (especially those made 35 + years ago) and are cheap (the 6 I replaced cost £2.51).

First up was to reflow the solder on the pins of the Molex connectors J1 and J2. I should have taken a "before" photo as there were tell-tale signs of dry joints on pin 1 to 3 (hairline dark ring where solder meets board):

ycpi_farm4.staticflickr.com_3747_12589577153_0931a67694_c[1].jpgycpi_farm4.staticflickr.com_3747_12589577153_0931a67694_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

The following electrolytic capacitors were then replaced being careful to get the (+/-) polarity correct!

  • C17 100uF 100V
  • C13 100uF 25V
  • C8, C11, C23 1uF 50V
  • C6 2.2uF 50V

farm4.staticflickr.com_3755_12589552653_2ae4216d71_c[1].jpgfarm4.staticflickr.com_3755_12589552653_2ae4216d71_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

farm8.staticflickr.com_7460_12589869504_7eaf6923ed_c[1].jpgfarm8.staticflickr.com_7460_12589869504_7eaf6923ed_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

farm6.staticflickr.com_5503_12589420025_ddd6d7c043_c[1].jpgfarm6.staticflickr.com_5503_12589420025_ddd6d7c043_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

farm3.staticflickr.com_2848_12589843164_33e619649b_c[1].jpgfarm3.staticflickr.com_2848_12589843164_33e619649b_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

farm3.staticflickr.com_2876_12589501093_226038fa2d_c[1].jpgfarm3.staticflickr.com_2876_12589501093_226038fa2d_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

On the underside of the board two of the mounting holes have exposed plated areas that make electrical contact with the mounting brackets and therefore with the grounding plane. It makes sense to give these a thorough clean, here using my trusty "fibreglass pencil" - like this from Maplin but you can get them cheaper elsewhere. I also used it to polish the connector pins, which are in perfectly serviceable order.

farm4.staticflickr.com_3821_12589442333_447d783c51_c[1].jpgfarm4.staticflickr.com_3821_12589442333_447d783c51_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

I've labelled the board and connectors using my trusty Dymo LetraTag 2000, then back in it's little box for the time being:

farm4.staticflickr.com_3720_12589431303_98c87639ab_c[1].jpgfarm4.staticflickr.com_3720_12589431303_98c87639ab_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Sound Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

Post edited by nedreud: Accidentally duplicated an existing post!

#60 9 years ago

February 2014
A3 SOLENOID DRIVER / VOLTAGE REGULATOR UPGRADE

After giving the sound module a prod I turned my attention to AS-2518-22: the A3 SOLENOID DRIVER & VOLTAGE REGULATOR MODULE. Here's what it looked like when it arrived, not too shabby and tested as giving out the right voltages (thanks @Dave2084):

ycpi_farm9.staticflickr.com_8404_8668440071_f291510fc1_c[1].jpgycpi_farm9.staticflickr.com_8404_8668440071_f291510fc1_c[1].jpg
Paragon: A3 AS-2518-23 Solenoid Driver & Voltage Regulator Module by staticboy, on Flickr

But time to get rid of this:

farm8.staticflickr.com_7326_12589839853_707e06d005_c[1].jpgfarm8.staticflickr.com_7326_12589839853_707e06d005_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

And this:

farm4.staticflickr.com_3748_12590178344_799762e7c9_c[1].jpgfarm4.staticflickr.com_3748_12590178344_799762e7c9_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

And make a few other improvements as recommended in Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985, Part One: 2c. Before Turning the Game On: Upgrading the Voltage Regulator/Solenoid Driver Board.
And make a few other improvements as recommended in Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985, Part One: 2c. Before Turning the Game On: Upgrading the Voltage Regulator/Solenoid Driver Board.

New regulator capacitors were ordered from Mouser Electronics UK:

And I also got a replacement for C24, 2.2uF 25V Tantalum £0.99 (now £0.93). This is part of the 5 volt regulator section and is included in the Bally 5-volt Regulator Kit from Big Daddy.

Snip the wires and cable ties, and out comes C23:

farm8.staticflickr.com_7407_12590137184_0ebb9f64d9_c[1].jpgfarm8.staticflickr.com_7407_12590137184_0ebb9f64d9_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

Unsoldered the old wires for C23 and the connections for C26, then cleaned up the solder pads. At this point I noticed that the 8AG 3/16A Fast Blow F1 fuse for the high voltage section was cracked. After removal it just fell apart:

farm8.staticflickr.com_7444_12589801003_24d2aeab21_c[1].jpgfarm8.staticflickr.com_7444_12589801003_24d2aeab21_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

With C23 out of the way I worked one of the recommended upgrade: tying the (-) negative side of C23 to ground. This alleviates strain on J3 pin 10. The instructions said to drop a link on the solder-side from the (-) negative side of C23 straight down to the track below, but I decided to drill a pair of 1mm holes and put in a proper wire link on the component side (the new solder points are the pair right in the midde of this photo):

farm4.staticflickr.com_3790_12590113424_2d3d178699_c[1].jpgfarm4.staticflickr.com_3790_12590113424_2d3d178699_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

And this is the link on the topside:

v4s.yimg.com_sk_3722_12590077884_2fbe975db0_c[1].jpgv4s.yimg.com_sk_3722_12590077884_2fbe975db0_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

New capacitor looks good with coloured wires and shiny cable ties:

ycpi_farm4.staticflickr.com_3822_12590104704_f6fcc0393a_c[1].jpgycpi_farm4.staticflickr.com_3822_12590104704_f6fcc0393a_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

A similar job was done on C26 except because I purchased a cheaper radial cap but the original was axial I had to run a wire to one of the holes:

farm4.staticflickr.com_3771_12589656715_a26569b621_c[1].jpgfarm4.staticflickr.com_3771_12589656715_a26569b621_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

Both capacitors and new link in place:

farm8.staticflickr.com_7346_12589650155_89217af825_c[1].jpgfarm8.staticflickr.com_7346_12589650155_89217af825_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

The other modification is improve a connection that is made between pins 13 and 25 on connector J3. This was done by soldering a wire on the underside between test points TP1 and TP3. Here's the schematic and added in red are the two mods I've made:

ycpi_farm6.staticflickr.com_5501_12634301424_9074dd947b_c[1].jpgycpi_farm6.staticflickr.com_5501_12634301424_9074dd947b_c[1].jpg
A8 Mods by staticboy, on Flickr

Here's the wire:

farm3.staticflickr.com_2876_12590069744_a283c1544b_c[1].jpgfarm3.staticflickr.com_2876_12590069744_a283c1544b_c[1].jpg
Paragon: Solenoid/Regulator Module Upgrade by staticboy, on Flickr

Post edited by nedreud: Duplicate photos and in wrong order!

#62 9 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Geez, it's almost like you know what you're doing! This machine is obviously going to turn out beautiful with the work you're putting into it. Very impressed!

Thank you, very kind of you to say so! I have to come clean that although it's my first pinball machine and first restoration, I'm a dab hand with electronics and have worked in computers/computing both hardware and software all my life. A lot of stuff is just common sense, like using the right tool for the job, and always take your time, never rush.

Coming from the UK most of my tools are metric with a few British Imperial sizes here and there. With pinball being a US creation everything is in inches so I recently treated myself to several sets of American Standard tools: a ball-ended Allen/Hex-Key set, some SAE hex bits and a 1/4-inch drive Deep Socket Set:

SAE Tools 001 Small.pngSAE Tools 001 Small.png

But I've found the pinball community itself is the most useful tool! It's an excellent source of knowledge and information that only comes from years of experience. A few minutes on Google is usually enough to find the answer to most problems and it's amazing how often it leads right back here to pinside.com! Or posting on a forum usually results in lots of great advice.

#63 9 years ago

May 2014
PROGRESS REPORT: PLAYFIELD OVERLAY DECAL

Progress has been a bit slow but I have an excuse: I've been side-tracked a little by playing some actual real pinball on my new machine: VECTOR.

But what I've also been doing is progressing my ideas for having a complete playfield overlay decal made. So, after following the excellent F-14 Tomcat Shop Log by @Snux on the UK-based PinballInfo.com I enquired who did the custom cabinet decals: turns out they were done by Jim Cousins at absolutecontrol.co.uk aka @ABSOLUTE CONTROL.

So... I get in touch... we chat... I send Jim my hi-res NOS playfield scan and he "fiddles" with it a bit for a couple of weeks, then says he's popped a sample and colour test in the post. Imagine my utter, jaw-dropping surprise when this arrives a couple of days later:

Paragon Playfield Test Decal by ABSOLUTE CONTROL 004.JPGParagon Playfield Test Decal by ABSOLUTE CONTROL 004.JPG

I am still in ABSOLUTE shock. This thing is so beautiful. The quality in terms of resolution, colour and feel is unbelievable. It's 100% full-scale print of the entire playfield on thick, clear laminated quality vinyl. I am itching to get this thing fitted to my Paragon!

And here it is side-by-side with the extra spare rotten playfield I have just for an initial comparison. The colours are a superb match (digital indoor photogrpahy is a bit misleading). Brighter, richer, but very much in keeping with the original NOS:

Paragon PF Compare 003.JPGParagon PF Compare 003.JPG

So, my deepest thanks to Jim and I can't wait to get the final master after a couple of very minor adjustments and double-checking it's exactly the right size to overlay the inserts (they're all white on the decal because they're see-through!)

3 months later
#70 9 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

any updates on this project....really looking forward to seeing it progess

Sorry, long time, no post, but I have been busy! Still haven't done the overlay as after stripping the playfield completely bare I got stuck into restoring all the mechanisms (flippers, drop-targets, slingshots, etc.) back to AAA+ condition:

14904218065_8dc09e9a99_c[1].jpg14904218065_8dc09e9a99_c[1].jpg

14608305875_30eeeb77a9_c[1].jpg14608305875_30eeeb77a9_c[1].jpg

14498467767_4afc8eb96e_c[1].jpg14498467767_4afc8eb96e_c[1].jpg

I also built my own super-budget rotisserie that sits on top of the main cabinet because I don't have room for it anywhere else:

14904221285_44160cdc8c_c[1].jpg14904221285_44160cdc8c_c[1].jpg

Quoted from flecom:

wow that overlay is awesome! can't wait to see how this progresses!

I did however do some testing with the trial overlay I have for size and scale, and it's good!

14321226351_3f0925233b_c[1].jpg14321226351_3f0925233b_c[1].jpg

I put a 500W floodlight under the playfield to check the alignment of the inserts. Tolerance was very good to within about 1mm:

14324564805_3cce9b0022_c[1].jpg14324564805_3cce9b0022_c[1].jpg

Quoted from beatmaster:

i'm very curious to see how the playfield corner was fix.

I won't be fixing the playfield with the broken corner. It's an old rotten one I was given. It's utterly beyond saving but have managed to pull a few spares as it was fully populated, e.g., coils, switches, nuts, bolts, etc.

If you want to see more I have a Shop Log over on the UK site PinballInfo.com but I'll try to get more updates on here too:

http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/adventures-in-budget-restoration-1978-bally-paragon.6519/

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