(Topic ID: 94118)

Twilight Zone solenoids 8, 16, and 24 not working - Solved

By mot

9 years ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by mot
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

My Twilight Zone recently developed a problem where coils 8,16, and 24 stopped working. I reseated the ribbon cable and other connectors but this didn't help.

In test mode, these coils work intermittently when applying pressure to various parts of the power driver board, suggesting a bad trace or connection on the board. I've spent some time studying the power driver board schematics, but still haven't figured out the most likely trouble spot. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?

More info:
Solenoid 8: Outhole kicker (high power)
Solenoid 16: Shooter diverter (low power)
Solenoid 24: Gumball motor (flasher circuit*)

#2 9 years ago

The best thing to do in this case is to not assume that these may be all related problems, and treat them as individual problems, break out a meter and start logically troubleshooting as if you have one coil problem. If they are related, whatever you find is the problem may also be the cause of the others.

Troubleshooting coil problem basics for WPC based games starting point - I recommend reading section "Checking transistors and coils" @ http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#trans

#3 9 years ago

I'd highly suspect a bad trace that would carry the D7 signal, somewhere between the ribbon connector (J113) and the solenoid latches (U2 - U5). It wouldn't be at the ribbon connector itself or it would cause flashers, lamp matrix, etc. to have problems.

#4 9 years ago

Are these all on the same circuit? My buddies did the same thing and it was a wire that had come loose under the playfield and was causing several coils to lose power. Inspect every coil and reflow the solder on them.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I'd highly suspect a bad trace that would carry the D7 signal, somewhere between the ribbon connector (J113) and the solenoid latches (U2 - U5). It wouldn't be at the ribbon connector itself or it would cause flashers, lamp matrix, etc. to have problems.

D7 is what I keep looking at on the power driver board schematic. It's good to hear it from someone who sounds like they know what they're talking about. I'll have to get the board out, give it a closer visual inspection, and buzz around. Thanks!

#6 9 years ago

One quick test you could do without pulling the board would be to put a DMM on continuity and check between the ribbon header and the pins of the ICs. If it's not obvious, do this with the power OFF.

Assuming the solenoids are failing as consistently as you say, it should be pretty easy to identify an open circuit. If you have mini-grabber clips available, you could also hook onto those locations and do your "pressing on the PCB" test to see if you can get your DMM to beep intermittently.

2 weeks later
#7 9 years ago

The trace carrying the D7 signal was broken coming off of U1. I needed to add a little solder to the topside of the board, and that fixed it!

Thanks so much, herg! You solved my problem, and now I have a little bit of understanding about how those signals work.

Can you find the broken trace in the photo below?
IMAG0773.jpgIMAG0773.jpg

#8 9 years ago

I see it!!! Nice find and thanks for posting Now it's searchable and will no doubt help others.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from mot:

The trace carrying the D7 signal was broken coming off of U1.

That chip has been replaced and someone did a pretty poor job of it. All of those pins could stand to be resoldered. I'm glad it's working, though.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from herg:

That chip has been replaced and someone did a pretty poor job of it.

Ouch! My ego!

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from mot:

Ouch! My ego!

Nothing to be ashamed of. It takes practice, and everyone tells you not to use too much heat, so most newbies don't use enough heat. Your goal is a shiny, smooth curve from the board to the pin.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Nothing to be ashamed of. It takes practice, and everyone tells you not to use too much heat, so most newbies don't use enough heat. Your goal is a shiny, smooth curve from the board to the pin.

I fixed two problems last night that I had created.

This was the first. I caused it when I replaced U1 trying to fix my GI even though I didn't need to and made things a bit worse. Grrr....

The other problem - the original problem - was a broken trace at the GI header pins from when I repinned them. A little stitch in the through-hole fixed that!

Now my Twilight Zone is back to 100%, and I learned a thing or two.

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