Adjust Failure on Dr. Dude - Replaced Batteries Still Happens

I just started getting the Adjust Failure error on my Dr. Dude. After some searching around it seems that replacing the batteries usually clears this up. Here's where I'm at right now:

- Adjust Failure error popped up. Went through menu to reset factory and then everything worked fine
- When you power off the machine and then come back to it after a few hours, the Adjust Failure error is present again.
- No corrosion on old batteries or battery holder, everything is very clean.
- Replaced with 3 fresh AA batteries but the problem is still there.
- When you power on, it'll say adjust failure but then you can reset the factory settings and play as normal.
- If I power off the machine for 5 seconds and then turn it back on you can play as normal. If you wait 20 seconds or so, the Adjust Failure message pops up and you need to reset factory settings in order to play.

Any ideas?

#2 8 years ago

AMS

barakandl

With batteries installed, power off. DMM check pin 28 of the sram. Or probe for vdc on each side of the blocking diode between the battery and and the SRAM.

#3 8 years ago

DAD

fish1975tx

Pinside member

Houston, TX

12y 55,050 505 25

The battery holder terminals may not be making good contact with one of the batteries.

#4 8 years ago

NGP

Gnatty

Pinside member

East Aurora, NY

11y 80,100 2,307 2 12

What they said!

#5 8 years ago

Blackbeard

Pinside member

12y 106K 12,104 6 20

Quoted from barakandl:
With batteries installed, power off. DMM check pin 24 of the sram. Or probe for vdc on each side of the blocking diode between the battery and and the SRAM.

You should elaborate a bit on this.

What's he testing? Etc.

#6 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

10y 95,050 8,699

The blocking doide keeps the batteries from being charged but allows the batteries to power the ram. Voltage on both sides of the diode means that the diode is good.

#7 8 years ago

AMS

barakandl

Quoted from Blackbeard:
You should elaborate a bit on this.
What's he testing? Etc.

Three AA batteries in series adds up to 4.5vdc. Check for 4.5vdc at the non banded end of the blocking diode and then check for about 4.2v past the blocking diode, like at the SRAM p28.

Most likely cause. your batteries are not making good contact or installed in the correct orientation.
less likely cause. the blocking diode is open
less likely cause the the sram has failed

#8 8 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

Good advice given so far.
Here's a bit more info.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_.22Adjust_Failure.22_and_.22Factory_Setting.22
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
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#9 8 years ago

MMM

nerdygrrl

Pinside member

Northampton, MA

11y 82,950 2,093 4

Don't you have to restore or reboot it back to factory on some system 11's for the Adjust Failure to reset?

#10 8 years ago

AMS

barakandl

Quoted from nerdygrrl:
Don't you have to restore or reboot it back to factory on some system 11's for the Adjust Failure to reset?

coin door needs to be open... you get adjust failure (RAM check value(s) not what software expected it to be), next boot up will be factory settings message, then the you are good to go.

#11 8 years ago

DJT

Taxman

In Memoriam

11y 90,950 6,228 34 30

Quoted from nerdygrrl:
Don't you have to restore or reboot it back to factory on some system 11's for the Adjust Failure to reset?

Good call Nerdy. Even after replacing the batteries some games (I know High Speed is one) require you to go into the setting and do a save and exit. So go in, set for Free Play, save, exit. If it loses the Free Play setting it is power to the ram. If it saves the Free Play but still gives an adjustment failure there is something else that needs to be set or tested in the menu.

#12 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Quoted from Taxman:
Good call Nerdy. Even after replacing the batteries some games (I know High Speed is one) require you to go into the setting and do a save and exit. So go in, set for Free Play, save, exit. If it loses the Free Play setting it is power to the ram. If it saves the Free Play but still gives an adjustment failure there is something else that needs to be set or tested in the menu.

When I power up the machine and it says "adjust failure," I navigate through the menus to "Free Play" and set it to "Yes." I then scroll all the way through the menu til it resets. I can now start a game in free play mode. When I power the machine off and then come back to it later, I have to go through that process again. Is there a step that I'm missing when you talk about a save and exit? Thanks.

#13 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

10y 95,050 8,699

OP
Quoted from halomojo:
Is there a step that I'm missing

No your doing this correct, but since it's still loosing the settings your battery holder is bad or the ram is bad or the blocking diode is burnt open. You need to check these items with a voltmeter as barakandl suggested in post #2.

#14 8 years ago

UUG

minnesota13

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 61,650 1,474

You appear to be setting up for free play just fine. If you don't have a voltmeter or have one and need specifics on how to apply it to measure the voltages as specified by barakanl post let us know.

Get up on a chair or step stool, remove the batteries w/ power off. Use flash light and look very closely at the battery contacts, top and bottom. There is a good chance there is corrosion on contacts or one contact that is preventing battery power from reaching the SRAM.

3 weeks later

#15 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Checked all the battery contacts and they look very clean with no corrosion.

3 weeks later

#16 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

I've been trying to track this problem down and haven't made any progress. The battery connections look very clean and I've tried other batteries to make sure they weren't duds.

I know I'm supposed to test this:

Quoted from barakandl:
Three AA batteries in series adds up to 4.5vdc. Check for 4.5vdc at the non banded end of the blocking diode and then check for about 4.2v past the blocking diode, like at the SRAM p28.
Most likely cause. your batteries are not making good contact or installed in the correct orientation.
less likely cause. the blocking diode is open
less likely cause the the sram has failed

Not sure which is the blocking diode or P28. Any advice? Thanks.

Screen_Shot_2016-02-26_at_1.21.24_PM_(resized).png

#17 8 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

SRAM P28 means the static RAM at U25, pin 28. U25 is the memory that must be retained to NOT see the adjust failure message. Measure...

Game off
DMM set to DC Volts
Black on backbox ground
Red on U25 pin 28

What does that measure?
--
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#18 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Quoted from ChrisHibler:
SRAM P28 means the static RAM at U25, pin 28. U25 is the memory that must be retained to NOT see the adjust failure message. Measure...
Game off
DMM set to DC Volts
Black on backbox ground
Red on U25 pin 28
What does that measure?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Gave this a shot but I wasn't able to get a reading. I might have been doing something wrong though because I wasn't sure which pin was pin 28. I only saw 24 pins on the chip. I also had the DMM on the 200V setting, but I tried the different settings to see if a different tolerance would make a difference. Took a few photos while I was at it. Any further advice. Thanks so much for your help!

IMG_0810_(resized).jpg
IMG_0812_(resized).jpg
IMG_0813_(resized).jpg
IMG_0814_(resized).jpg
IMG_0815_(resized).jpg
IMG_0816_(resized).jpg

#19 8 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,462

Set your meter to 20 DCV range and measure pin 24 (first pin on the left of the top row) with the game powered off.

pasted_image_(resized).png

#20 8 years ago

ECB

erak

Pinside member

Grimsby, ON

15y 122K 3,749 5 86

Put your DMM on 20v dc. Do the steps others have posted. That solider joint on - of B2 of the battery holder board connection looks not so good.

The solider joints may also have cracked on the back of the board. The only way to be sure is to remove the board and check the back too.

Good luck. It can only be 3 things.
1. (Most common) Bad battery solider joints cracked or bad holder connection.
2. Failed diode (not too common but possible)
3. RAM failure. (Not likely unless acid damage) but possible.

You can also measure across the +/- solider pads on the board of each battery holder and see of the holders are actually conducting across the batteries.

#21 8 years ago

ECB

erak

Pinside member

Grimsby, ON

15y 122K 3,749 5 86

Not related, but plug 1j22 above the batteries is not plugged in all the way

#22 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Quoted from erak:
Put your DMM on 20v dc. Do the steps others have posted. That solider joint on - of B2 of the battery holder board connection looks not so good.
The solider joints may also have cracked on the back of the board. The only way to be sure is to remove the board and check the back too.
Good luck. It can only be 3 things.
1. (Most common) Bad battery solider joints cracked or bad holder connection.
2. Failed diode (not too common but possible)
3. RAM failure. (Not likely unless acid damage) but possible.
You can also measure across the +/- solider pads on the board of each battery holder and see of the holders are actually conducting across the batteries.

Tried touching up the solder on the B2 battery prong, but no change. Still giving me the Adjust Failure error after running the factory reset. I can play the game, but after the machine has powered off and then is powered on again, Adjust Failure comes back. Thanks!

#23 8 years ago

RobertWinter

Pinside+ Frequent

OP
Quoted from halomojo:
Tried touching up the solder on the B2 battery prong, but no change. Still giving me the Adjust Failure error after running the factory reset. I can play the game, but after the machine has powered off and then is powered on again, Adjust Failure comes back. Which pin is pin28 on U25? Thanks.

You have a 6116 SRAM at U25. Voltage should be at pin 24 of that chip.

#24 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Quoted from RobertWinter:
You have a 6116 SRAM at U25. Voltage should be at pin 24 of that chip.

Gotcha, thanks. I'll give it another shot this evening and report back. When I checked before I was getting 0.00V so hopefully I was just doing something wrong.

#25 8 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,462

OP
Quoted from halomojo:
When I checked before I was getting 0.00V so hopefully I was just doing something wrong.

That would certainly explain the problem, that chip holds all the settings, high scores, etc. and if it doesn't have voltage to it at all times you'll get the adjust failure on power up.

#26 8 years ago

ROB

rcbrown316

Pinside+ Addict

Webster, NY

9y 81,300 3,688 22 10

replace the battery holder if you havent done so already. I am not going to ready the thread because i have replaced a gazillion of those things and it worked every time. if you have, please disregard

#27 8 years ago

ROB

rcbrown316

Pinside+ Addict

Webster, NY

9y 81,300 3,688 22 10

ok I just read upward a bit. replace the battery holder...

#28 8 years ago

RobertWinter

Pinside+ Frequent

I agree with changing the battery holder. But a couple of last things to check.

Check the voltage coming out of the battery holder. Should be 4.5 vdc. See picture. If you have good voltage there, then check it at the chip, picture 2.

chip_(resized).png

battery_(resized).png

#29 8 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

Kill two birds with one stone.
Replace the battery holder AND get the batteries off that pristine MPU.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Relocating_the_battery_from_the_System_11_MPU_board
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#30 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Quoted from RobertWinter:
I agree with changing the battery holder. But a couple of last things to check.
Check the voltage coming out of the battery holder. Should be 4.5 vdc. See picture. If you have good voltage there, then check it at the chip, picture 2.

chip_(resized).pngbattery_(resized).png

Thanks everyone for the super helpful posts. Just gave this a shot. I am not getting any voltage when I check the negative terminal of B3 to the positive terminal of B1. Seems like the battery holder is bad. When I checked - B3 to + B3 I was getting a good reading. Same with - B3 to + B2. But not at B1. Seems like the issue lies with B1. I'll take a look at the replacement holder that Chris mentioned.

#31 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Any recommendations on battery box kits. I've been doing some research and see that there are a few different styles. Thanks!

#32 8 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,462

Get rid of the batteries all together and put NVRAM on the board, never have to worry about batteries again and since you're soldering on the board anyway, why not? Just make sure you get the proper one for your game which (I believe) uses 6116 memory. I just installed a couple from here: http://nvram.weebly.com/ with sockets from Great Planes Electronics, piece of cake.

#33 8 years ago

RobertWinter

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from bobukcat:
Get rid of the batteries all together and put NVRAM on the board

^^ This. ^^

Personally, I use these - http://lockwhenlit.com/anyPin.htm

#34 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Quoted from RobertWinter:
^^ This. ^^
Personally, I use these - http://lockwhenlit.com/anyPin.htm

Awesome, thanks for the tip. That looks like what I need. I'm trying to understand the instructions. I know I'll need to set it to 6116 SRAM. But I'm confused on the bit about actually soldering it into the machine. It looks like I add two 10k Ohm Resisters to the underside of the AnyPin VRAM. Do I then unsolder the existing U25 Ram that is on the board now and replace it with this?

#35 8 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

If you don't have the skill and tools to remove the RAM, send it to a pro. No sense in hacking a pristine board. You can send it to me if you'd like.

Desoldering without damaging the board is not trivial. Since that is the case and assuming you still want to "do it yourself", a remote holder or SuperCap may be the way to go.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#36 8 years ago

UUG

minnesota13

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 61,650 1,474

Quoted from ChrisHibler:
Desoldering without damaging the board is not trivial. Since that is the case and assuming you still want to "do it yourself", a remote holder or SuperCap may be the way to go.

This is an important statement. Removing the ram chip is indeed an operation that requires skill acquired through experience.

#37 8 years ago

RobertWinter

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from ChrisHibler:
If you don't have the skill and tools to remove the RAM, send it to a pro. No sense in hacking a pristine board. You can send it to me if you'd like.
Desoldering without damaging the board is not trivial. Since that is the case and assuming you still want to "do it yourself", a remote holder or SuperCap may be the way to go.

#38 8 years ago

AMS

barakandl

OP
Quoted from halomojo:
Awesome, thanks for the tip. That looks like what I need. I'm trying to understand the instructions. I know I'll need to set it to 6116 SRAM. But I'm confused on the bit about actually soldering it into the machine. It looks like I add two 10k Ohm Resisters to the underside of the AnyPin VRAM. Do I then unsolder the existing U25 Ram that is on the board now and replace it with this?

or just by mine for $15 that doesnt need any dip setting.

Actually if you want... $10 you can proto a new working 6116 design i have that uses a different nvRAM than the ones i am selling now.

1 week later

#39 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Would this process of relocating the battery box solve my problem?

Thinking this battery box would do the trick. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBH073

#40 8 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

Only if the problem is caused by the battery holder connection to the MPU board or the battery holder itself.
Naturally, if the root cause is off the battery holder, a new battery holder won't help.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#41 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

Quoted from ChrisHibler:
Only if the problem is caused by the battery holder connection to the MPU board or the battery holder itself.
Naturally, if the root cause is off the battery holder, a new battery holder won't help.

Gotcha. When I did this test earlier:

"I am not getting any voltage when I check the negative terminal of B3 to the positive terminal of B1. Seems like the battery holder is bad. When I checked - B3 to + B3 I was getting a good reading. Same with - B3 to + B2. But not at B1. Seems like the issue lies with B1."

That leads me to believe the issue lies with the battery box. Again, thanks so much for your help!

#42 8 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

Ok. Correct. Press on.
--
We
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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#43 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member

The problem has been solved. Bad battery box. Followed this procedure:

Thanks a bunch for all your help!

#44 8 years ago

ROB

rcbrown316

Pinside+ Addict

Webster, NY

9y 81,300 3,688 22 10

i love to say I told you so lol...

battery_(resized).JPG

#45 8 years ago

???

halomojo

Inactive member