(Topic ID: 111006)

Adding switch-activated LEDs?

By sethbenjamin

9 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

I just got bit by the LED bug, and have been thinking up new ways to dress up my games. The big idea that I dreamed up yesterday is this: On Pinbot, there is a spiral ramp which you shoot from the plunger. both at the beginning of the ball and later as well. I would like to add color changer LEDs to the ramp WHICH COME ON WHEN THE BALL IS ON THE SHOOTER SWITCH. To make matters more complicated, the lights should stay on until the ball has cleared the ramp. There are 3 possible scoring switches, so how to get the lights to turn off at the right time is a bit of a challenge. The "off" relay would have to either be tied to all 3 switches, or be on a timer from when the ball leaves the shooter lane. Is this do-able?

#2 9 years ago

Anything is "do-able" it's just at what cost and effort. You can't use any of the existing switches that are a part of the switch matrix. I think the easiest solution would be to add a secondary switches there. The only immediate challenge I see is finding a places to fit them in. You might be able to stash a reed switches somewhere with a little clever ingenuity.
After you engineer in all the switches for your mod, you would need to design an operational circuit to read all the switches and control the additional circuitry for the LEDs. In a nutshell, this could be accomplished by someone with advanced electronics knowledge. If you got it - go for it.

#3 9 years ago

Hmm...I'm still trying to understand how to test things with the multimeter. So, I guess not...

But if I ever meet somebody like that and can get them over here, by God...

I can *imagine* a second switch at the ball trough, one activated by the existing switch arm. Probably easier to put the light on a timer. But also WAY easier to theorize about it than to actually do it.

#4 9 years ago

you have yourself a neat idea. but color changer for under a dark red plastic ramp?? i would think just a white to light it up. Also when you start to customize and mod stuff you need to think of where the accessibility is. i almost can not imagine a harder location to work on than the top corner of the PF. You would have to rip apart your PF to see where things would go. install temp and maybe have to redo several times till you get it right and what you like.

If you have LED bug keep it simple and do say under cabinet lighting. Something that does not interact with the game. Keep you undercab power supply separate so you don't damage your machine.

If you want to go crazy get programmable LED strips, learn micro controllers and how to program and you can do some really cool stuff. like sound activated or switch based events. Not real easy but it will give you something to learn and can be worked on without tying up your machines at all.

#5 9 years ago

This is pretty simple. Just add a switch and run it to a programmable relay. You can either time it for a set time or have two switches and have the second self-interrupt the first.

#6 9 years ago

Check out my tomcat it is pretty much the same thing. Think of the jet as the LED.

http://m.youtube.com/?rdm=1c6anr22l&client=mv-google#/watch?v=ZhFI0VFZwLo

#7 9 years ago

Where can we purchase these devices to do a relay type mod?

#8 9 years ago

You can find simple timed relays everywhere. You can delay, and set the duration of a routine for simple things. These can work with most applications.

If you want them to be more advanced (like my tomcat) self-interrupt or even programmable then you need a controller and program software to create and save a "routine". I have a self-interrupt switch in the shooter lane and a program running the solid LED to flashing on the back of the jet.

#9 9 years ago

nice what you did on your f14 tomcat.

yes thats a nice way of doing it.

#10 9 years ago

Ha, that's pretty cool - love the takeoff jet, the LED afterburners are great.
On Pinbot you would either figure out how to connect the shutoff switch to the gate at the bottom of the vortex ramp, or just have it on a timer. Maybe not quite as slick as a 2nd switch but easier?

Quoted from CNKay:

you have yourself a neat idea. but color changer for under a dark red plastic ramp?? i would think just a white to light it up.

I mostly want it for the strobing effect. I have RGB quick changers under the slingshot plastics and it's very dramatic. Was thinking of using the kind that have longer, positionable leads, so as to get the light closer to the holes. Ideally, these would only be lit when you're about to shoot the ramp. The rest of the time I would just have a couple of bright red static LEDs in the existing GI sockets.

As for the positioning being a PITA, believe me I've had this game stripped down a couple of times. I can practically re-assemble it blindfolded!

#11 9 years ago

Not familar with Pinbot. What kind of area do you have off this exit ramp for the second switch? I can brainstorm an idea.

#12 9 years ago

It looks like this. It's a unique little Devo hat of a thing, basically a skill shot obstacle more than a ramp. You're shooting for the middle hole (100K) but if you overshoot you get 20K, undershoot and you get 5K. No matter which hole you drop the ball through, it exits the bottom of the ramp, into the pop bumpers. (Hard to see here as it is obscured by the gate, which is there to keep the ball from re-entering the ramp.) There is some space inside the Devo hat, and my first thought for a second switch position was to use an optical sensor just inside the exit hole. Seems easier than trying to engineer something to the exit gate? There is already a rollover at the exit, I would have to go look at the game again to tell you what its function is.

vortexramp.jpgvortexramp.jpg
#13 9 years ago

Yes, I would remove the Devo hat or work from it from the underside. Putting an opto may be the best thing, or a simple microswitch would work. I don't know how much room you have to work with. You can also set the relay to NC (Normally Closed) so when the ball launches from the shooter lane the LED goes off until it hits the interrupt. Would the LED be on that long? Seems like a short amount of time between the shooter and the exit.

#14 9 years ago

Yeah, it would be pretty quick. There are 2 GI bulbs in there already which light it up red. I'd be adding the color changers (or strobes or whatever) which would only be active at the beginning of the ball or when the ball returns to the plunger during a turn. Just a little visual interest. My half-formed idea on how this would work is: Switch #1 is a leaf switch; don't know whether it should be closed or open. This would somehow have to work with the existing trough switch, but that *seems* like it should be relatively easy. The relay would then keep current going to the (new) bulb outlets until the ball crosses the optical sensor at the exit hole. Assuming what I just described is a thing that can actually happen. The other option is to have switch #1 trigger a timer in the relay, but I realize I'm just imagining that and don't know if it is a thing that actually exists.

I need some specific pointers...I know I can order an opto from PinLife or Marco or wherever, but not sure what type of relay I'd be looking for, or how this would patch into existing power?
Can a standard switch such as comes with flipper rebuild kits be used for the first switch?

Too bad you're all the way in Buffalo, if you were closer by I'd say come over and I'll feed you beer until we work it out.

#15 9 years ago

Is the shooter switch a micro or a leaf? If its a leaf it can have an additional leaf added to it. Both woth together but electrially seperate.

#17 9 years ago

Use a SW-1A-150 lane change switch stacked on the bottom.

#18 9 years ago

Not sure if that's an option, though. Lane change switches have the *oomph* of a solenoid making sure they get good contact. Can you really count on the weight of the ball on that delicate rocker arm to establish that?

#19 9 years ago

It won't be a problem, and you can use any other switch if you put fish paper between them.

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