(Topic ID: 148371)

How to Add LED Flashers to System 11 Games


By mrgregb123

3 years ago



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  • 97 posts
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  • Latest reply 26 days ago by kbliznick
  • Topic is favorited by 55 Pinsiders

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sof2 (resized).PNG
schematic.jpg
System 11 Flasher fix board only (resized).jpg
S11_AUX_WORKING.JPG
S11_AUX_POPULATED.JPG
S11_AUX.JPG
sys11_d3467_diodes_(resized).jpg
rg_hold_flipper_after_(resized).png
rg_25v_after_(resized).png
rg_25v_before_(resized).png
rg_50v_after_(resized).png
rg_50v_before_(resized).png
201407030656022303_(resized).jpg
aux_driver_(resized).png
61cF0F83bCL._SY355__(resized).jpg
diode_(resized).jpg

There are 97 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago

Yes. It was meant to be 5J12-11/12 the YEL/VIO wire supplying +50V to the "A" side.

I think I finally got it. It'll probably look like a hack but hopefully a more clean looking hack. I'm trying to avoid a coil diode for the very reason stated that any potential future owner who may not have good electrical knowledge (such as myself) may get confused and remove the coil diodes as they are not standard.

One final question ... if I apply this modification (remove D3, D4, D6 and D7 and put the equivalent of coil diodes in place) ... will regular incandescent bulbs still work? I'm thinking they should with the modification in place.

Thanks for all the answers. I only did very elementary electronics in high school. I only got as far as "V = IR".

#52 3 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

will regular incandescent bulbs still work? I'm thinking they should with the modification in place.

Yes they will.

#53 3 years ago

Thanks for all the help from everyone more electrically competent than me!

This weekend (yesterday evening) I confirmed that this works. There are 8 flashers in the BK2K backbox (as well as playfield flashers but the backbox ones were good to see the results) that flash with flipper power strokes. 4 sets of 2 flashers for 3C, 4C, 6C and 7C. This modification fixed all the flashing with flipper power strokes. Here is what I did:

1) Cut one (the non-banded) side of diodes D3, D4, D6 and D7 and lifted the cut side off the board to prevent accidental contact. Ideally I guess the entire diode should be removed or the cut leg insulated.

2) Built two custom connectors (seen in the photograph below). Both of these are pass-through connectors for the actual wires with the ability to "tap into" that portion of the circuit. It is also possible to do this with IDC "Z" connectors but I don't have any of those as I prefer to use the trifurcon crimp connectors. These are used on 5J4 and 5J12 but 5J12 is strictly not required (see below).

3) Connected an additional wire to 5J12-12. It's +50V and continuous with 5J12-11. This is an unused wire in the IDC so you could just put the wire into the IDC. I don't have IDC tools. Connected this wire (yellow for YEL-VIO) to the banded side of 4x 1N4004 diodes. Connected the non-banded side of each of the 1N4004 diodes to the appopriate VIO-*** wire that is the drive wire for the 3A, 4A, 6A and 7A that was "tapped into" the 5J4 connector.

Fired up the game and the flipper power stroke flashing was gone. On BK2K it was particularly annoying as the return lane has flashers that were problematic.

Hope this helps. I attached a photograph of the "hack". I have my flame retarding jacket on. For those that wish to flame ... FLAME ON! The only invasive part is the cutting of the diodes D3, D4, D6 and D7 on the auxiliary power driver board. That's why I was asking if it's required. Unfortunately it is required. Otherwise there's no other board wires connected. Only the 1x wire from 5J12-12 split to 4x diodes to 4x wires on 5J4.

Guess I'll be building these for my Whirlwind and Rollergames as well.

Again ... thanks to everyone for the help. I'd noticed this a few years ago when I put LED flashers in my Whirlwind but never understood why. At that time I just put incandescent flashers back in and it has remained that way since then. Not any more!!!

sys11_d3467_diodes_(resized).jpg

#54 3 years ago

Good job. Glad I could help.

1 week later
#55 3 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

UPDATE: I am posting an "idiot's guide" on how to do this at the end of this post. It certainly works for Dr. Dude and -should- work for other System 11c games too.
---------
When I hit the flippers on my Dr. Dude, about 5 of the flashers in the game pulse dimly for a brief moment. Not all the flashers, just 5 of them. All flashers in the game are LED.
I read that this is a known issue in System 11 games. The solution I found was to remove 4 diodes from the aux power board and add diodes to a few coils. I just need some clarification before I do this....
1) These diodes are the ones located on the power supply (top right) with the big heat sink, correct?
2) Does it matter if I clip them off or desolder them?
3) Are the diodes I removed from the power board the same ones I'm adding to the coils?
4) Does anyone know where the diodes go and on which coils on Dr. Dude? I found instructions for Whirlwind but obvious using different coils here.
Thanks guys!
EDIT:
OK - here's the idiot's guide to getting LED flashers to work properly on Dr. Dude and other System 11c games.......
1. Purchase 1N400x diodes on Amzn. The "x" can be any number. I used 1N4001 but the others work too. You can get 50 of these for $3 shipped. Good to have on hand.
2. Find the aux power board in the backbox. It's located near the middle of the right side, BELOW the power supply (power supply has large heatsink). Find the diodes labeled D3, D4, D6, and D7 (diode = small wire with the black thing in the middle) on the aux power board. They are all next to each other vertically. Use a wire cutter to completely remove those four diodes I just mentioned.
3. Now find coils 3, 4, 6, and 7 under your playfield. If you have no clue which those are, grab the manual for your game and find the solenoid table, usually found towards the beginning. In the table, you will see the Solenoid # (i.e. the coil #) and then the function describes what it is so you can identify it. In Dr. Dude, you want the Ray coil, Gab coil, drop target coil, and knocker coil (you can skip that one if you disconnected it).
4. Solder a 1N400x diode to each of the above coils, with the gray banded side of the diode attaching to the power wire lug (power wire is the thicker wire of the two attached) and the non-banded side attaching to the other lug.
5. Install your LED flashers, start a game, hit the flippers. No flashers should fire. There you go!

Just started this mod on my Rollergames. I have cut off the 4 diodes on the aux power board to discover there is no 3A coil

I assume the D3 diode has to be replaced in this case?

#56 3 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

Just started this mod on my Rollergames. I have cut off the 4 diodes on the aux power board to discover there is no 3A coil
I assume the D3 diode has to be replaced in this case?

Solenoid (coil) 3 is not used in Rollergames (see the manual, which confirms this). So you're fine having cut it. No harm, no foul.

1 week later
#57 3 years ago

Man was I reluctant to try this, but in the end, appreciation is owed! This worked like a charm on my Whirlwind & Earthshaker! Thank you MRGREGB123 and everyone who contributed to this fix!

2 years later
#58 8 months ago

Cautionary tale:
A few days ago I tried this procedure on my Cyclone - cut D3, D4, D6, D7 diodes off aux board, attached diodes to 3 (skillshot ball shooter), 4 (boomerang kicker), 7 (backbox knocker) coils. There is no 6A coil in Cyclone. I was extremely careful with removing the aux board diodes and adding diodes to the coils in the correct orientation.

The first few minutes of test, it worked perfectly and I was on cloud nine. Then things started to deteriorate... first the flashers on the 4C circuit started to light constantly... then after a few more minutes and a power cycle, the game now refuses to even boot to attract. So yeah, I kinda killed my machine, and I have no clue what I may have done wrong. I've tried replacing all of the fuses on the power supply and aux boards with no luck.

Side note - I've got 2 other system 11 games, Big Guns and BK2K and both exhibit the same momentary flasher flicker when activating the flippers - so it seems that this is a general behavior for all system 11s - and the flickering didn't start happening until about 6 months after I put in the LEDs.

#59 8 months ago

IMO, there's a lot of variables to convert these games that were designed to operate with incandescent flasher lamps. There's differences between the games themselves, different flasher types (89,1251,etc...). Different wire schemes, sometimes grouping more than one flasher in a circuit. Then you go and install LEDs in there which operate fundamentally differently than an incandescent. What works for some is not going to work for others. There is no constant current LED driver design for the flasher circuit in a 30+ year old game, which helps avoid violating the maximum current specified for the LEDs, therefore avoiding burnout/thermal runaway.

#60 8 months ago

Follow up on my cautionary tale (issues solved)
the cyclone is alive again, here were the sources of my issues:
1. flashers always-on: shorted transistors Q1 and Q7 on aux driver board, replaced them
2. game not booting to attract: random coincidence that 5V fuse holder came loose, re set it

anyway - everything works perfect now, including the flickering flashers symptom is now gone.

5 months later
#61 87 days ago

Just a bump on this thread, and results. I did the cut and solder to the coils on my Riverboat Gambler, and it fixed the issue for me as well. Coils for Riverboat Gambler are: Both 5 Card drop targets, the Slot Machine kicker, and the Special Knocker in the backbox. Good Luck!

#62 81 days ago

3 years later ... I implemented the steps using a completely different solution. No additional solenoid diodes required with this solution.

100% over-kill and over-engineering. It sure was a fun learning experience though.

S11_AUX.JPG
#63 81 days ago

WOOOOW!!! Are you going to sell some?

#64 81 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

WOOOOW!!! Are you going to sell some?

Not sure if there's really any "mystery" surrounding this subject anymore with these products available.
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=31
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=23

I just installed these into a WPC89 game and they are fantastic.

#65 81 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

WOOOOW!!! Are you going to sell some?

I only had 5 boards made as I didn't think there would be any demand for this (I did it more for myself and as a learning experience) and I have at least 3 games where I intend to use this solution (replacing the previous "hack" that I had implemented).

If you are interested in acquiring some feel free to PM me.

#66 81 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Not sure if there's really any "mystery" surrounding this subject anymore with these products available.
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=31
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=23
I just installed these into a WPC89 game and they are fantastic.

Herg's products are great.

Those are for the general illumination and controlled lamp matrix not the flashers.

#67 77 days ago

I'm not the fastest at doing things. I got my first board populated and I'll be trying it out tomorrow to see (after I bench the basics tomorrow) if it works in a machine.

Note new features on this board are:

- LEDs for each of the DC output and AC input (DC post rectification). Visual feedback for a blown fuse.
- LED for A/C relay enabled or disabled. Visual feedback for A/C relay functionality.
- 1x2 2.54mm jumpers to disable all LED output (if you don't like the LEDs) and just the LED for the A/C relay.
- Discrete diodes instead of bridge rectifiers for 25VDC and 50VDC full wave rectification.
- Test points for the DC output voltages.
- "Keyhole" mounting holes to back box instead of circular mounting holes.
- Silkscreen with fuse information (obtained from the manuals - so if incorrect blame the manuals).
- Aforementioned diode between solenoids 3A/4A/6A/7A and the 50VDC power line.

I'll be keeping my hand on the power switch when I turn it on. Hopefully I won't release the magic smoke.

S11_AUX_POPULATED.JPG
#68 77 days ago

The only thing I would change is the zero ohm resistors. Just put in a cut off lead from one of the larger diodes. Nice work!!!

#69 76 days ago

Working in my Rollergames!

I don't think I've written software that worked the first time I tried it - let alone made hardware.

I have some other boards that aren't related to this thread so I think it's time to start a different thread.

I hope I haven't over-stayed my welcome in this thread.

S11_AUX_WORKING.JPG
#70 76 days ago

dumbass, Do you think you're going to sell these? Or maybe provide the design so we can have one printed ourselves?

#71 76 days ago
Quoted from mskoenen:

dumbass, Do you think you're going to sell these? Or maybe provide the design so we can have one printed ourselves?

I haven't had much demand for them (the Aux Power Driver doesn't go bad too often) but I think if I started a separate thread with other boards that I have been working on that there might be more demand.

I will state publicly that I'm not in the business of selling fully populated reproduction boards like Rottendog because I'm not a business and I can't warrant the products. There are people out there who will "buy" a product, "test" it in their machine (for diagnostic purposes) and then return it - i.e. too much fraud. Then there are those that buy a replacement board thinking it will fix their problems when they haven't root-caused the problem only to destroy the new board and then ask for it to be replaced under warranty. Sorry. I don't want to deal with that BS.

I would definitely consider selling them as someone who is "self-(cough-UN-cough)-employed" and gets nervous seeing the bank account balance always going in the DOWN direction. Initially I would only consider selling the blank board with a BOM list (although the silkscreen on the board has the BOM information).

#72 76 days ago

If it also works with a Swords of Fury I'm all in for one!
Don't mind doing the soldering myself; only shitty stuff would be to get the BOM as electronic stores over here only sell to professionals.
But with patience and ebay it can be obtained.

Don't hesitate to PM me if you sell some, no return (that'd cost me more than the board anyway from here ) and no testing

#73 76 days ago

Will this work in my Diner, system 11c

If so, count me in on a blank board with the BOM.

#74 76 days ago

The board should work in any System 11B/C game that uses it. I say should because I only have access to the System 11B games that I have.

There are two revisions of this board (http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Auxiliary_Power_Driver_Board).

The first is used in Big Guns, Space Station and Cyclone. The second is used in all the other System 11B games. The essential difference in the design is that the first revision (D-11583) has one F2 fuse that fuses the 25V input to the A/C relay whereas the second revision (D-12247) has two fuses (F2A/F2C) that fuse the 25V outputs from the A/C relay.

This board supports the first revision by duplicating the fuse specification for F2 to F2A and F2C.

#75 76 days ago

Ill look and see what I have.

Flippers have been moved to my aux driver board on system 11c, on diner.
Its different than 11b?

Im wading through this a bit now...

I really like the pc board idea but, Its no trouble to cut diodes and install them inline to the flashers also.

But, the new board sure is a slick concept!

#76 76 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Flippers have been moved to my aux driver board on system 11c, on diner.
Its different than 11b?

Rollergames is System 11C. The main (only?) difference between System 11B and System 11C is the sound being completely moved off the main CPU (MPU) board to the sound board. The top left corner of the CPU board is not populated from the factory. Power and solenoids (the auxiliary power driver board) remained the same.

#77 76 days ago
Quoted from herg:

They're actually new diodes, but you could also move them if the leads were long enough. Basically, they are not placed correctly to work as flyback diodes. Here's a marked up schematic to show what I moved.
[quoted image]

Be aware, though, this did not fix the errant flashing on my game.

Relooking at the schematic I see what I did wrong with suggesting this alternate method. Moving the diode to the other side of the resistor mimics the placement of the board mounted flyback diode on the 25V circuits. But as you found out that didn't work to stop the errant flashing. To actually mimic the placement of the adding the flyback diodes directly onto the A side coils at 3,4,6 and 7 you would have to cut and move the non banded legs of the D3, D4, D6 and D7 diodes to the non banded sides of diodes D33, D35, D39 and D41. This positions it so the flyback diode is isolated from the flasher circuits by the diodes that keep the A and C circuits apart.

This is more work than necessary to fix the issue, but does allow for a following owner or tech further down the line to not make the mistake of reverting a 3,4,6 or 7 coil with a diode for one without a diode.

System 11 Flasher fix board only (resized).jpg
#78 76 days ago

If you want to make this thread the "master thread to how to add LED flashers to system 11 games" Here are the 4 different issues you can run into.

1. Games Big Guns and Later (system 11B-11C) Do the diode mod as described here

______________________________________
2. Games from system 4 Flash up to System 11A Fire. Remove the 330 ohm warming resistors from each circuit otherwise LED's will stay locked on. You can still switch back to incandescent as later games worked this way no issue.
________________________________________
3. On games with 6V #63 flash lamps (High Speed, Road Kings, Sorcerer) . These are wired in series pairs to a 12 v source (6V + 6V =12V) If one incandescent goes out they both go out. Simply change these sockets so that they are wired parallel to the 12V source. (wire the voltage and signal wires to the 2 lugs on a single flashlamp socket, then jumper each lug to the lugs on the second socket) Then you can use two 12 Volt flashers. You can switch back to 12V incandescent no issue.
________________________________________
4. On games with 24 Volt #1251 flashlamps (Pinbot, Cyclone...) These are usually wired 3 sockets parallel to each other. Change the sockets so that the bulbs are wired in series instead (daisy chain them) Technically they will be just at 8-12V each on the flashers but they are still very bright, Then you can use three 12V flashers. Note that when doing this make sure that the 24V enters the first socket at the nipple and exits though the body and then enters the next socket through the nipple and exits the body and same for the third. This is important in case the LED's you are using are polarized as polarized lamps won't light when powered backwards (incandescents don't care which way the current flows) . Note that with the series connection one bulb out of the circuit or broken will cause the other 2 bulbs not to light. I don't think this method will switch back to 12V incandescent very well as the voltage per bulb might be too low, but I haven't tried.

#79 76 days ago

I am always careful with flashers...they can be BLINDING

#80 76 days ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

This is more work than necessary to fix the issue, but does allow for a following owner or tech further down the line to not make the mistake of reverting a 3,4,6 or 7 coil with a diode for one without a diode.

I did say it was 100% over-kill and over-engineering. It was a learning experience for me. I'm not an EE or anything near that. I trained in the medical field. I did indeed want a solution that did not require someone to know that the diode on a coil is necessary when it's not standard for a System 11B/C game. I live by the principle "if someone can make the mistake then someone WILL make the mistake".

Here's the schematic modification I made. Exactly as you described.

schematic.jpg
#81 76 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I did say it was 100% over-kill and over-engineering. It was a learning experience for me. I'm not an EE or anything near that. I trained in the medical field. I did indeed want a solution that did not require someone to know that the diode on a coil is necessary when it's not standard for a System 11B/C game. I live by the principle "if someone can make the mistake then someone WILL make the mistake".
Here's the schematic modification I made. Exactly as you described.
[quoted image]

Nice. Glad to see this integrated into a board. I described this fix to another board manufacturer who was planning on making this board and never saw it made. This LED fix alone would probably present more demand than just the availability as a stock replacement as this board rarely goes bad (usually bad relays)

#82 75 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Rollergames is System 11C. The main (only?) difference between System 11B and System 11C is the sound being completely moved off the main CPU (MPU) board to the sound board. The top left corner of the CPU board is not populated from the factory. Power and solenoids (the auxiliary power driver board) remained the same.

Nice!

I'm in.

I think it would be fun to build and see it running in my game.

#83 75 days ago

I'm in too. Just need BOM and board!
Adding to my Jokerz
Very nice work

2 weeks later
#84 57 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I'm not the fastest at doing things. I got my first board populated and I'll be trying it out tomorrow to see (after I bench the basics tomorrow) if it works in a machine.
Note new features on this board are:
- LEDs for each of the DC output and AC input (DC post rectification). Visual feedback for a blown fuse.
- LED for A/C relay enabled or disabled. Visual feedback for A/C relay functionality.
- 1x2 2.54mm jumpers to disable all LED output (if you don't like the LEDs) and just the LED for the A/C relay.
- Discrete diodes instead of bridge rectifiers for 25VDC and 50VDC full wave rectification.
- Test points for the DC output voltages.
- "Keyhole" mounting holes to back box instead of circular mounting holes.
- Silkscreen with fuse information (obtained from the manuals - so if incorrect blame the manuals).
- Aforementioned diode between solenoids 3A/4A/6A/7A and the 50VDC power line.
I'll be keeping my hand on the power switch when I turn it on. Hopefully I won't release the magic smoke.
[quoted image]

Excellent work! Looks great!
Would you ever consider sharing the original CAD project such as KiCAD or the gerbers on something like GitHub?

#85 57 days ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Excellent work! Looks great!
Would you ever consider sharing the original CAD project such as KiCAD or the gerbers on something like GitHub?

I had no plans on doing this as i don't know what GitHub is. I would assume most people don't care about how it's put together as they just want built (or manufactured) boards that work.

I am working on a more easily readable form of the BOM for those that have expressed interest in the blank board and intend to provide a schematic as well (although the schematic is essentially the same as the Williams manual with the specified additions).

#86 57 days ago

About the BOM, depending on countries some parts might prove difficult to find.
Getting electronics parts in Switzerland is annoying (minimum size orders, only selling to professionals...).

If you have a few full BOM, and sell them along with the board (like what the Lisy creator is doing for example), even with a premium, that'd be interesting for some people, including me

#87 56 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I had no plans on doing this as i don't know what GitHub is. I would assume most people don't care about how it's put together as they just want built (or manufactured) boards that work.
I am working on a more easily readable form of the BOM for those that have expressed interest in the blank board and intend to provide a schematic as well (although the schematic is essentially the same as the Williams manual with the specified additions).

GitHub is just a site where you can upload open source code and designs.
If you ever decide to share your original project files, I'd be interested in them.

#88 55 days ago
Quoted from steve1515:

GitHub is just a site where you can upload open source code and designs.
If you ever decide to share your original project files, I'd be interested in them.

Me too!

#89 55 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I had no plans on doing this as i don't know what GitHub is. I would assume most people don't care about how it's put together as they just want built (or manufactured) boards that work.
I am working on a more easily readable form of the BOM for those that have expressed interest in the blank board and intend to provide a schematic as well (although the schematic is essentially the same as the Williams manual with the specified additions).

Take my money !

3 weeks later
#90 34 days ago

My SoF has a horrifically hacked-up aux board, and I would like to install LEDs. I would definitely be interested in a new blank!

(Might even consider buying a few blanks as I have multiple System 11 games and will probably end up converting them all.)

1 week later
#91 27 days ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

4. On games with 24 Volt #1251 flashlamps (Pinbot, Cyclone...) These are usually wired 3 sockets parallel to each other. Change the sockets so that the bulbs are wired in series instead (daisy chain them) Technically they will be just at 8-12V each on the flashers but they are still very bright, Then you can use three 12V flashers. Note that when doing this make sure that the 24V enters the first socket at the nipple and exits though the body and then enters the next socket through the nipple and exits the body and same for the third. This is important in case the LED's you are using are polarized as polarized lamps won't light when powered backwards (incandescents don't care which way the current flows) . Note that with the series connection one bulb out of the circuit or broken will cause the other 2 bulbs not to light. I don't think this method will switch back to 12V incandescent very well as the voltage per bulb might be too low, but I haven't tried.

Thanks for the details on the 24v flahsers.
How does this work with SoF? It seems to only have one #1251 flash lamp?

#92 27 days ago
Quoted from Beebl:

Thanks for the details on the 24v flahsers.
How does this work with SoF? It seems to only have one #1251 flash lamp?

hmmmm. Guess it doesn't then. You'd have to add a resistor in series to drop the voltage. I think an 11 ohm 5 watt maybe. This game has the interconnect board that had different valued resistors depending on how many lamps were in each circuit. Are they using just a zero ohm jumper on that spot? If so then the 11 ohm should work.

#93 27 days ago
Quoted from Beebl:

It seems to only have one #1251 flash lamp?

WOW... so, in one sentence, you just solved the mystery as to why my mini-playfield flasher keeps burning out.

#94 26 days ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

WOW... so, in one sentence, you just solved the mystery as to why my mini-playfield flasher keeps burning out.

Ha! Mystery solved -- If you plan to convert it to a standard 89 let me know. I'm still scratching my head over where this resistor is kbliznick is talking about in the schematic.. I'm ordering parts from PL then i'll dig into it next week...

#95 26 days ago
Quoted from Beebl:

I'm still scratching my head over where this resistor is kbliznick is talking about in the schematic..

On the inner connect board the manual shows R-1 as a resistor or a jumper. In your machine it will be a jumper, remove it and install the resistor in its place. Then you can run #89 bulbs or 12 volt Leds.

sof2 (resized).PNG
#96 26 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then you can run #89 bulbs or 12 volt Leds.

Definitely going to do that when I give my Lionman a much-needed backbox wiring overhaul.

#97 26 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

On the inner connect board the manual shows R-1 as a resistor or a jumper. In your machine it will be a jumper, remove it and install the resistor in its place. Then you can run #89 bulbs or 12 volt Leds.[quoted image]

Yup, that's the spot. Remove the W1 or R1 jumper and install an 11 ohm 5 watt power resistor, or something within about 25% of that.

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