(Topic ID: 148809)

Adding an external 5v power supply for mods


By jsa

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 36 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by toyotaboy
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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Egon_GB1_(resized).jpg
DSC00935_(resized).jpg
SWITCHEDOUTLET_(resized).jpg
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#1 3 years ago

Hey all, looking for some advice. I have a ToM, and I'm thinking of adding an external 5V power supply for mods (rather than take the power off my WPC-89 power driver board). It takes line power 120v in and in theory, outputs 5V appropriate for various things. My question is, has anyone done this, and if so, any thoughts on what would be the most elegant way to grab power, in terms of being properly fused?

One thought I had was using the maintenance outlet to the back box, or a second power cord. Here's what I'm thinking of installing:

IMG_0655_(resized).JPG

Thanks all!

#2 3 years ago

I would also like to have an external power supply for mods. If I could separate mods from my pins that would be even better since I don't want too many mods draining juice with a risk of damaging.

Also sometimes I like to play 1 pin but like to have the game room with toppers or lights on without having to have to turn on all my pins

All my pin have :

http://www.pinballlife.com/images/products/preview/fts-8.jpg

and some of them are almost at full capacity

#3 3 years ago

HAPP arcade supplies are great for this. Adjustable logic power, several voltages available, and high current capability. Relatively cheap at around $35, they can't be beat for external mods in my book.

s-l1600_(resized).jpg

#4 3 years ago

The p/s you have there is fine but the suzo wayout ^^^^ has is better because of the 12 volt section can be used for leds strips and other 12 volt mods. I rewire the service outlet on my pins so that the outlet turns on with the power switch.

#5 3 years ago

If I need to draw separate power for things like a ColorDMD or other mods I use one of these power bricks from a USB hard drive kit for $10-12 shipped off ebay.

ebay.com link

I plug it into the game's service outlet which works perfect for me because I use remotes to turn my games on/off. So whenever I turn a game off it also cuts power to the game's service outlet too. I think there is a way to wire your game's service outlet to only get power when you flip the main switch on too.

You can see how I used the power adapter brick in the following roadshow topper mod and STTNG ColorDMD install.

http://pinballrevolution.com/threads/red-teds-roadshow-interactive-dual-beacon-topper.4002/
http://pinballrevolution.com/threads/sttng-colordmd.800/

1-8-2016_12-24-19_PM_(resized).png

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The p/s you have there is fine but the suzo wayout ^^^^ has is better because of the 12 volt section can be used for leds strips and other 12 volt mods. I rewire the service outlet on my pins so that the outlet turns on with the power switch.

Can you link to the Suzo PS you're referring to? I can't find any reference to it.

Also, you mention re-wiring the power supply to turn on with the power switch. Any tips before attempting that myself?

#7 3 years ago

Search "happ power" on ebay....many there. I just pick one that is close to my geographical location for cheap shipping and make sure they have a clean track record for Ebay sales.

Rewire basically like diagram below. You can use an AC plug into the service outlet for a temporary mod or hard wire it for something more permanent. Some games might not have a three prong outlet for the service outlet, or even a three prong AC power cord. For safety, adding the third condutor (green) is highly recommended.

SWITCHEDOUTLET_(resized).jpg

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Search "happ power" on ebay....many there. I just pick one that is close to my geographical location for cheap shipping and make sure they have a clean track record for Ebay sales.
Rewire basically like diagram below. You can use an AC plug into the service outlet for a temporary mod or hard wire it for something more permanent. Some games might not have a three prong outlet for the service outlet, or even a three prong AC power cord. For safety, adding the third condutor (green) is highly recommended.

That's perfect, thank you!

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

For safety, adding the third condutor (green) is highly recommended.

If the power supply delivers 5V/5A, and a mod (like in my case, the Tiger Saw motor mod for Theatre of Magic) requires far less current, does that mean I should install a current-limiting resistor? I'm a little backwards on electronics.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

If the power supply delivers 5V/5A, and a mod (like in my case, the Tiger Saw motor mod for Theatre of Magic) requires far less current, does that mean I should install a current-limiting resistor? I'm a little backwards on electronics.

No. The mod will take what it needs.

#12 3 years ago

That means you can add many more mods.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

No. The mod will take what it needs.

Quoted from wayout440:

...or hard wire it for something more permanent.

Do you guys recommend wiring the power supply after the fuse?

#14 3 years ago

Either way it wont matter. I you like I can take a pic of how I rewired my No Fear service outlet to be on only when the game is on. It will have to be later as I'm still at work.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Either way it wont matter. I you like I can take a pic of how I rewired my No Fear service outlet to be on only when the game is on. It will have to be later as I'm still at work.

Couldn't hurt, but don't work too hard on it, I think I'm ready to go!

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Do you guys recommend wiring the power supply after the fuse?

It probably has an internal fuse, if you see one under that yellow sticker you really wont need to fuse it ... myself personally, I fuse everything. If I was installing this I would just get an old 3 wire power cord, cut the female end off it connect it all up with an inline fuse; then just plug it into the convenience outlet. The size of the fuse will depend on how much load you are going to put on the power supply. This is not really elegant, but its easy to do and easily reversible.

#17 3 years ago

The Happs have their own internal fuse, an external fuse is not necessary. You can optionally add a 5A SB fuse to the input if you want to for extra protection

#18 3 years ago

How about a computer power supply. I use them for my mods. You get three voltages: 3.3V, 5V, and 12V.
They are usually free. Use an inline fuse.
Here is a version I did for a bench power supply, but for a pinball cabinet PS you can just wire directly to the voltage you need.

Alan

DSC00935_(resized).jpg

#19 3 years ago

Computer supplies are ok, but some advantages of the Happy supplies are: Screw terminals already provided. No fan - which means more reliable and no noise, and larger current ratings for juicy mods.

#20 3 years ago

Here's a real electronic stupid question: If your mod takes on/off signal from the power driver board, and you're using an external power supply, what do you do with the negative lead off the power supply, wire to ground?

#21 3 years ago

Tie the grounds together. NEVER connect the various power signals (e.g. +5V and +12V) to internal power, keep them isolated.

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Tie the grounds together. NEVER connect the various power signals (e.g. +5V and +12V) to internal power, keep them isolated.

I'm not sure I understand. Tie which grounds together? The power supply is grounded to the same ground the machine's power unit uses. I'm trying to figure out how to complete the circuit. Normally, this mod I'm using takes the red lead to 5V on the power driver board and the black lead to one of the pins reserved for the control signal on the machine. Now, since I'm using external power, my red lead comes from the positive on the power supply, and the black lead still goes to the control signal. I need to wire the negative lead of the power supply...somewhere, to complete the circuit, correct?

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Here's a real electronic stupid question

Not a stupid question.

Quoted from jsa:wire to ground?

Yes.

Quoted from jsa:

If your mod takes on/off signal from the power driver board

Do you mean a negative signal and positive from your new power supply? If yes then good to go.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you mean a negative signal and positive from your new power supply? If yes then good to go.

The mod works by interrupting the black/negative from the mod to the power driver board. If I connected the negative lead directly to the new power supply, it would be always on. I assume, therefore, I should wire the power supply's negative lead to ground...?

#25 3 years ago

I have a ton of mods on my games. I used the DK pinball power tap. Works just fine.

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

The mod works by interrupting the black/negative from the mod to the power driver board. If I connected the negative lead directly to the new power supply, it would be always on. I assume, therefore, I should wire the power supply's negative lead to ground...?

If I am understanding, you are trying to use the games control signal/driver to turn on the mod? If so, you should use a relay to turn on the mod. You will tie the ground from the mod supply to the game ground, but this is a safety ground only. you can't tie a negative voltage from your mod power supply back into your game supply.

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

If I am understanding, you are trying to use the games control signal/driver to turn on the mod? If so, you should use a relay to turn on the mod. You will tie the ground from the mod supply to the game ground, but this is a safety ground only. you can't tie a negative voltage from your mod power supply back into your game supply.

Ok, my apologies, I don't think I'm explaining this right.

The mod in question is a motor that turns when the software in the game tells it to. Unlike typical mods, this one was a feature of the game that was originally cut from production because of costs, and they re-added it later. The actual game software tells the motor to spin at certain times, using one of the previously unused pins on the power driver board

For this to work, the mod typically gets it's power from the game's internal 5v power, and the negative (black) wire is tied back to the game's power driver board on a specific pin that completes the circuit when the game software tells the motor to run.

Since I'm moving this to an external power supply, my 5v (red) positive lead is coming from the new power supply. I still need the mod's negative lead to tie back to the game power driver board because the game still tells the mod when to spin. Therefore, the mod's black wire is run to J125 pin 3 on this WPC 89 power driver board (ToM).

However, that leaves me without running the negative (Black) lead from the power supply to anywhere. I assumed I should run it to ground, because if I don't run it, the circuit isn't complete and the mod won't spin, at least I think so.

I ran it to ground and it works, I'm just wondering if this is the right way to do it?

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I should wire the power supply's negative lead to ground...?

Yes, tie to the ground braid in the cabinet. Also make sure lower cabinet ground braid is connected to the ground in the back box.

Quoted from G-P-E:NEVER connect the various power signals (e.g. +5V and +12V) to internal power, keep them isolated.

He wants to make sure your you don't put the positives voltages together. Like connecting new power supply 5 volts to the game 5 volts on the driver board. This is bad!

#29 3 years ago

Following, just in case I decide to do this

#30 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

He wants to make sure your you don't put the positives voltages together. Like connecting new power supply 5 volts to the game 5 volts on the driver board. This is bad!

Awesome, thanks.

Got it, don't cross the streams. Right. That's bad. Okay. All right. Important safety tip. Thanks, Egon.

Egon_GB1_(resized).jpg

#31 3 years ago

Egon knows his shit.

#32 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

jsa said:
I should wire the power supply's negative lead to ground...?
Yes, tie to the ground braid in the cabinet. Also make sure lower cabinet ground braid is connected to the ground in the back box.

The simplest way to do this with the power supply you plan on using for your mods is to jumper the v- and ground together right on your power supply terminals they are even right next to each on this power supply.

If your power supply came with clips like these: amazon.com link »
that's what they are for.

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The simplest way to do this with the power supply you plan on using for your mods is to jumper the v- and ground together right on your power supply terminals

True, but only if he uses a three prong cord. I sure hope he does uses a grounded cord for safety.

#34 3 years ago

I took that as a given ... but yes that's very important

#35 3 years ago

I did use a grounded cord. I'm a little obsessive so I probably over-did it, but that's just me. It's all working quite nicely now. Thanks everyone!

#36 3 years ago

If anyone wires a plug directly to their switch, be sure to have the machine unplugged if you're using an outlet on the same circuit. Touching the switch with the soldering iron will connect ground and you'll get a nice spark.

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