(Topic ID: 117362)

Adding a powered sub- The right way?

By rcbrown316

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 86 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Mattyk
  • Topic is favorited by 33 Pinsiders

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    #52 9 years ago
    Quoted from rcbrown316:

    whats the difference between a home amp and this pin amp on the component or properties level that would make me do something different?
    what does rolling off the signal mean?
    what does maximizing the high-pass filter mean?
    Just to be clear as to why I want to keep the cabinet speaker in play:
    1. this is a full range speaker
    2. more is better

    No, you don't need to do anything different, really. You are tapping off your speaker level (amplified) right at the speaker without disconnecting it and sending the same signal to the compatable speaker level input which has the necessary matching components to work correctly without damage. The difference between a home audio system as compared to a pinball audio system is mostly what sound information is present in the low frequency ranges. The average subwoofer is going to only "see" frequency information below a maximum of something around 200 hz. There's probably going to be less going on down in that frequency range in a lot of games, as compared to what you might see going on in a commercial recording that you would play on a home audio system. That's the only difference, but the theory of operation is pretty much the same.

    I've got a sub hooked up exactly this way on my F-14 Tomcat, which I chose specifically because it has some nice low frequency explosion sounds. You are going to need to keep your existing speakers to reproduce the higher frequency sounds.

    #64 9 years ago
    Quoted from cscmtp:

    So I could have 2 pinballs at the same time working on one sub? awesome. Now what would I need to get the wire connected? I think I have pretty thick gauge wire right now, what size do I need for the pinball and any connectors or parts needed?

    You don't need a really thick wire gauge for a short run with the sub close to the game, it would be desirable to increase the wire size for a longer run to reduce loss. The pinball amp is comparably low powered. I use a quality 16 AWG speaker and I think that is overkill.

    #66 9 years ago

    If you have a lot of cash or spare audio equipment, you could even try this. I think it is kind of a waste to dedicate a whole mixing console, but if you have extra lying around, why not?
    http://www.rjbaudio.com/BlackKnight/bkextreme2.html

    2 years later
    #72 6 years ago
    Quoted from manadams:

    So question for all the speaker experts. I bought a BIC D-1010R for $20 off of Craigslist taking a low risk chance that it would work. It has receiver speaker wire inputs but they are not labeled "high level" inputs. I have positive and negative leads alligator clipped to cabinet speaker going to sub. It works for about 10-20 seconds and stops. Are receiver inputs not "high level" and that's why it's not working right or do I have a defective sub?

    This speaker has active amplification and is expecting to amplify a line level input. You are sending amplified power into it by clipping to the speaker leads! Discontinue using or there may be permanent damage caused.

    #74 6 years ago
    Quoted from manadams:

    Will do, so it guess it has to say "high level" inputs in any case.

    Another option is to add an interface to what you have. Google "speaker to line level converter"

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