any reason this would be a stupid idea, using .093 pins?
Figured it's better then actual quick connects at the terminals that might vibrate off eventually.
any reason this would be a stupid idea, using .093 pins?
Figured it's better then actual quick connects at the terminals that might vibrate off eventually.
Well what's the worst that happens when they vibrate off? You just reconnect it.
Not stupid, but pointless maybe? But hey what isn't these days.
How often do you switch out your flipper coil? maybe if game is on location and you have spare ones ready to swap in solder free it would make sense. Not so sure on home collection though? But its your game do what you want
Quoted from heme:any reason this would be a stupid idea, using .093 pins?
Figured it's better then actual quick connects at the terminals that might vibrate off eventually.
HEP does it on all his builds. I’ve been adding connectors for coils and switches anytime I need to service something. Makes it easier to work on at the bench and to reinstall later. Haven’t had one vibrate apart yet
I put quick connects on all the machines I've restored, rebuilt or shopped. Then those machines go to the Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show for an entire weekend of play (many of them have been back multiple years now).
I've only had one incident where a quick connect has come loose. I tightened the contact and re-inserted it onto the coil lug and it's never come off since.
I've also had one coil burn up during the show (same machine I think) and replacing that coil on the show floor was super easy.
I suck at soldering at a machine when the playfield is vertical. On a bench (or table) I can solder just fine.
I like rebuilding flipper mechs on the bench too. You can position it where you want it and get that nice solder job your looking for. No risk of a solder glob getting on something on the PF somewhere else. EOS switches and caps can be put on more easily and neatly on the bench too. (For me anyway) I Molex most everything these days. Many different crimping tools work fine most likely, but I got one of these and it makes factory quality crimps every time. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3132-CT&cat=89
awesome, thanks for the info everyone. I'd assumed it was ok, but you never know what experiences others might of had.
I like putting connectors on the various assemblies. Makes it so much easier to simply unplug the assembly and take it over to the bench to work on it. This is especially helpful to do on Williams drop target units.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Anyone have a part number for the connectors needed.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=46 Plugs and Receptacles can vary depending on how many wires you need to Molex. Male and Female pins are needed and found here too. I like the 18-22AWG pins for most pinball needs, except when doing a double wire. Then the 14-20AWG work better. I know it is a bit spendy, but grab this Sargent crimper Part Number3132-CT and you will be glad you did.
From Canada I order from Digikey, but I think many folks use Great Plains Electronics, similar part numbers. I am including digikey part numbers in brackets.
For 18 gauge wire on the coils, I use .093 diameter contacts, Molex part numbers:
0003092022 (digikey number WM1324-ND) 2 position plug
0003092032 (digikey number WM1325-ND) 3 position plug
0003091022 (WM1331-ND) 2 position receptacle
0003091032 (WM1332-ND) 3 position receptacle
Contacts are:
0002092103 (WM1100-ND) pin 14-20 gauge
0002091104 (WM1101-ND) socket 14-20 gauge
I think you can also use 18-22 gauge contacts
You will need contact extraction tool 0011030006 (WM9930-ND)
For 22 gauge wire on switches, targets, etc I use .062 diameter contacts, Molex part numbers:
0003062023 (WM1220-ND) 2 position plug
0003062032 (WM1221-ND) 3 position plug
0003061023 (WM1230-ND) 2 position receptacle
0003061032 (WM1231-ND) 3 position receptacle
Contacts are:
0002062103 (WM1100-ND) pin 18-24 gauge
0002061103 (WM1001-ND) socket 18-24 gauge
contact extraction tool 0011030002 (WM9929-ND)
Flippers I'm not keen on adding connectors, they are easily accessible in machine (with the exception of some third position flippers) and so rarely fail I fail to see the point.
Drop target assemblies? Hell yes, considering how complex the mech is and the ease of target replacement is on the bench. When I built my Seawitch I also added Molex connectors for servicing on the pops. Switch adjustment or coil replacement is a snap. Popper coils do tend to fail at a much higher rate in my experience due to locked on drivers.
I lost a brand new coil 10 minutes after my Seawitch was fired up for the first time, driver on the SDB decided it was time to check out and I didn't catch it during gameplay till it was too late.
Dick move SDB! Dick move!
Quoted from gdonovan:Flippers I'm not keen on adding connectors, they are easily accessible in machine (with the exception of some third position flippers) and so rarely fail I fail to see the point.
Drop target assemblies? Hell yes, considering how complex the mech is and the ease of target replacement is on the bench. When I built my Seawitch I also added Molex connectors for servicing on the pops. Switch adjustment or coil replacement is a snap. Popper coils do tend to fail at a much higher rate in my experience due to locked on drivers.
I lost a brand new coil 10 minutes after my Seawitch was fired up for the first time, driver on the SDB decided it was time to check out and I didn't catch it during gameplay till it was too late.
Dick move SDB! Dick move!
Main reason. My soldering skills suck with the machine PF vertical. Too lazy to remove it. Adding all New new style Mechs to my Gorgar. This is a buddies. Copying his work. Wish me luck!
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