(Topic ID: 278686)

Added two way switch for High Tap

By srcdube

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 16 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by xsvtoys
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#1 3 years ago

Read a lot about leveraging High Tap, and wanted to try it in my recently acquired Target Alpha. I didn’t want it to be permanent, nor a pita to change back and forth (cause soldering in the bottom of a cabinet sux).

I installed a regular two way house light switch to swap between the two. Works great. Haven’t used high tap a lot yet, trying to focus more on cleaning switches and other things in the circuit paths to get more power to poppers and bumpers.

Will use the high tap on special occasions .

Attached some photos if anyone is interested. Pretty easy to install.

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#2 3 years ago

Btw... if you are unsure about how these switches work get someone to show you. If hooked up wrong you could accidently connect the std to high tap lugs together... can’t be good! I buzzed the switch out to be sure I knew exactly which one was the common point and which screw was connected to which end of the switch.

#3 3 years ago

That is interesting. I have never moved a game from High to Low or visa versa but I understand why someone might.
I am guilty of buying stronger flipper coils for an em which amounts to the same thing.

Similar; I usually install a jumper on the EOS on the credit unit. It has a male / female staycon in it. All of my games are coin op but if I sell it, the new owner can easily switch it one way or the other without "bending" the switch.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

That is interesting. I have never moved a game from High to Low or visa versa but I understand why someone might.

I did once, and didn't see any difference on a Williams Granada.

#5 3 years ago

I’m not sure why you would want to do this on machines 30-40 or more years old! In my humble opinion, I think it’s more important to properly use a volt meter to measure and understand your line and secondary voltages before doing anything.

#6 3 years ago

Well whoever you sell this to will surely post it in the worst hack you ever saw thread.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Well whoever you sell this to will surely post it in the worst hack you ever saw thread.

Awful harsh.
It is his thread and his machine.

#8 3 years ago

I just sold a game someone had done this too. Handy.

Not a fan of the light switch though, a bit big. I'd like to find some little, panel mount switch somewhere I can use for this. Often I need to high tap my games when bringing them to shows or tournaments since the voltage is worse there, but then switch it back to normal when they get back home, and it can be a pain

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Not a fan of the light switch though, a bit big.

... from a real estate pov? Or do you think there’s too much resistance through them and losing some of what I’ve gained? I measured before using them and seems to be little resistance. Voltages then same past them as on the lugs... all static measurements though... may be different when currents flow quickly to coils.

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Well whoever you sell this to will surely post it in the worst hack you ever saw thread.

Mine are all keepers... probably won’t resell. Easy to remove before I do though if I sell. Buyer would see two screw holes where the switch was mounted and go “wtf!!!”

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Or do you think there’s too much resistance through them and losing some of what I’ve gained?

I doubt that, if it's permanent though maybe mount it in a box to look better.

Special occasion=when I want to beat the high score
Normal=everyone else

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

if it's permanent though maybe mount it in a box to look better.

Yeah... that would take up even more space though (if I used a house wiring switch box). I screwed it down with nylon standoffs cut to the height of the switch... it ain’t moving. I could find something more “electronic” and compact/cosmetic ... but for $3.19 in the back of the bottom Of the box and available today with no shipping costs... I went for the easy hack.

#13 3 years ago

My Chicago Coin Hula-Hula actually has a jumper for the high tap. One of many such adjustments which also includes a jumper to turn on and off the scoring bells.

CC games from this era were really ahead of their time.

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#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Well whoever you sell this to will surely post it in the worst hack you ever saw thread.

Curiosity killed the cat... And because I’m a sucker for punishment and also want to protect future hackers from the wrath of pinside, whaterya think makes it a “worst hack”.

Enquiring minds want to know.

#15 3 years ago

Don’t take it too seriously.

That thread is full of funny and usually completely unnecessary hacks, just like this one.

Most of them involve doorbells, rubber bands, or extra screws or nails. Some of them were creative op hacks to keep a machine earning.

Your project was a creative solution looking for a problem. It takes 10 seconds to move the wire to high tap and really never needs to be changed back.

But it’s your machine and time, so have fun. But whoever ends up with the machine after you will get a good chuckle out if it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/worst-hackrepair-you-ever-saw

1 week later
#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Gotemwill:

My Chicago Coin Hula-Hula actually has a jumper for the high tap. One of many such adjustments which also includes a jumper to turn on and off the scoring bells.
CC games from this era were really ahead of their time. [quoted image][quoted image]

That’s really pretty interesting. I’d like to see the schematic to see how that is wired up. It looks like the fuse block is in play there also, there is a fuse for Normal Line and a fuse for Low Line (which has no fuse in it).

I think it would be nice to have a quick change arrangement so you could go back and forth for a bit while playing to get a feel for the difference.

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