top rollthru lanes, left ramp, right ramp, center standup, right standup.. is the 5 major targets to hit 3x each, changes to battle mode. hitting center standup about 10x gets you to wizard mode knock down red arrows repeatedly on ramps and orbits. rollover in upper left orbit gives up to 2 extra balls.
after starting machine chimes, hold right flipper button press start, changes from 3 ball per game to 5 is "classic mode", theres extra bell ringing sounds etc in classic mode.
definitely wax the pf 2-3x and the ball too, I get even better ball speed with a thin coat of armorall's "tire gel" over the wax (wipe away all excess and buff clean). you might get a similar "waxing the wax" action from a small amount of vaseline instead of tire gel, it sure works wonders on electric guitar bodies believe it or not.
test that all switches are working properly when the plexi is off the pf, a friends Heroes vs Villians had a couple sticky reed switches needed adjusting before modes would advance.
the stock flipper buttons are notoriously flimsy, arcade units are great but it may be possible to get better quality monemtary switches to solder in replacing them. I'd gone arcade buttons requires some careful drilling to install them and the stock button springs used to replace the flipper solenoid return springs, theyre lighter springs giving a little more forward hit and theyre smoother-quieter than what they replaced.
even after the centerpost and bumper pins ahead of the in-out lane wires, I'll get "battle mode" about 1/4 the time and wizard mode about half that much, I dont think its blatant cheating, it just makes it more playable (thats in 5 ball classic mode with earning the 2 extra balls! need it tougher play 3 with maybe 2 extra).

1.5" (diameter) x 3/8" width flipper bands are lighter than 1/2" ones, works good on a zizzle. stock they ARE drain monsters, halfway up on the left is a post to use between flippers, replace it with something else is easy enough. mini posts about 1/2" ahead of the in-out lane wires and a post below-between flippers, only makes it more fair.
regular flipper band (1.5 x 1/2") replaces rubber on triangle between dr doom and popcaps to help keep ball up there to maybe get the two top rollthru's 3x.

leg levellers was real easy just lots of drilling, 1-3/8 x 1-3/8 x 6" hardwood blocks, T-nuts and gliding furniture leg levellers.. raised my PotC about 1-3/4" overall, can adjust pf angle and left-right levelling at whim now, lots nicer.
isnt a lot of audio power but wiring a 6-8" speaker into the bottom cover (in series to the stock one not parallel) sure helps a ziz have better sound if ya got an efficient old speaker layin around to pop in where it wont interfere with mechanisms etc. TOY yes, but can be pretty fun both playing and modding.

btw, got slingshot graphics for H-vs-V you can print-mount-cover if you want em (PM). someplace at zizzlepinball.blogspot I'd commented and listed some mods, they sure dont cost much of anything to do.

pretty long list but yeah, and its all pretty straightforward simple stuff geared at game playability, some was repair necessity created fixes-mods too, maybe a couple to do's coming up idk.

I'm still using stock flipper coils here, replace those BAD stock flipper buttons with arcade buttons and slick the heck out of the playfield with 2-3 coats wax then armorall, or armorall tire gel, or maybe tiny amount of vaseline polishing away all excess. mentioned above using the old flipper button springs as replacements for the flipper solenoid returns, weaker springs lets them hit a little harder. its far more the stock flipper buttons than the solenoids themselves.. OH AND.. the stock flipper coils are single wound with a resistor inline, if you hold the ball much at all the resistors warm up and steal power away from the flipper coils, they'll be wimpy as hell for 1-2 minutes at least.

next up about trying to make the ramps.. if the ball bounces when rolling from the inlane wire and onto the flipper it's gonna lose some swat power, so take the plexi off and roll it through a bunch adjusting the wire to get rid of bounce. the pf isnt tough stuff, so when you get the bounce out re-lock the wire tight with a drop of crazyglue. getting ball bounce out of that transition from wire to flipper makes a big difference in shooting power predictability accuracy.

when you're replacing stock solenoid springs with the old flipper button springs, unscrew the flipper crank arms and flip their bushings upside down (in through the topside) and put the plastic washers on top. that'll get you about a mm higher off the pf so the flippers cant drag, the pins will just reach the solenoid tips with a little slack too when you put the plungers back into the solenoids with their new weaker springs. it oughtta get you a little better hits.

there ya go Syco, all my little flipper tweeks

no expert here! got this thing just before Christmas outta CL and started tinkering-fixing-modding it. lots was straight from the blogspot guy's inspiration, one difference being leaving the bumper triangle intact. the old flipper springs was about a happy accident, same for flipping the flipper post bushings and other little things I saw making sense.

my friends heroes vs villians had the wire lane to flipper bounce problem, made the venom ramp near impossible!
(his basement floor not level making the pf angle much too steep didnt help either.) all the tweeks combined got the ramp doable, your timing and aim gotta be ON because its still set up kinda steep, makes it a challenge.

lol ok, you've seen me post these things before maybe? its also a possible that the coils insulation epoxy stuff is about half baked and THAT wouldnt be fun but can be dealt with by getting a spool of the same diameter magnet wire, counting how many turns when unwinding the little monsters and hand rewinding them with maybe an extra 50 turns on them too, a very tedious operation! had to hand rewind my popcap solenoid that'd burnt-baked-done.
finding appropriate flipper coils for these might be harder than rewinding by hand (with a drill motor slowly).

same Q as real machines, how does the (integrated agghh!) coil sleeve look? if you do go with different coils they'll have to fit the plungers (or change everything over?) and the new cant be drawing more power than the old stock ones, might suck the guts out of the driver transistors and more..ouch! seriously look into everything first.

I'm really thinking to add EOS switches and resistors to the flippers to drop power away from the coils when holding the ball, it might help prevent a burnout and it wouldnt be a tough to do.

semi-scary? maybe driver transistors are partially broken down not feeding current to the coils like they oughtta?
fairchild transistor bipolar BJT, npn, Mouser number 512-KSD882YS ... ummm.. I think...
if the coils are really ok, that'd be something to look at, how much voltage and current are they getting?
I might be wrong but the power wires TO the solenoids look pretty wimpy-small to me, but are working allright.

stock zizzle power supply claims 2.5A 24v, but only saw 20v with my meter. picked up a 24v (max) universal power supply thats a real 24v at 3.75A for mine, that by itself might be doing some good things too here, was maybe 12 bucks. the plug fit and polarity was correct, no need for any of the output plug adapters it came with. it was one of the first things I did, might be some of why no complaints about wimpy flippers idk.

couple pics if I can get em to load here lol..

lol yup Mocean, thats the solenoid driver transistor suitable cross reference, but if the pre is out its the SMT type that'd require micro-surgery. got half dozen of em here btw, typed the number straight off the packing slip is how.
they werent spendy so its worthwhile swapping them in to see if it'll function or not.

the 28mm arcade buttons are a good-perfect fit in the funny P-shaped housings but you have to drill a 1-1/8 hole through the cab-box for them to fit through, and a couple smaller holes for their wires.
these guys: http://www.amazon.com/250V-Momentary-Button-Orange-Arcade/dp/B008MU2THC/ref=sr_1_cc_2

if orange not available, whatever other color will function at least. its nice they have solder lugs not really intrusive to the inside of the cabinet. Homebrew.. yeah its those shoddy stock flipper button switches..

my slingshots were recoil hammering, at first I thought it a glitch but it was physical, fixed the issue with a couple chained rubberbands to barely and very lightly pull the bottoms of the arms outward to the cabinets sides, might sound like a cheez-azz fix but the slings work perfectly ever since.

Nexto.. it sure COULD be a physical thing with trigger skirts snagging edges of their holes, but wouldnt think so for being on the phone when it arbitrarily spit its coil plunger onto the floor (I had the bottom cover off). my friends H-vs-V came with the power wires to that solenoid cut, he'd bought it at a factory-seconds-salvage-bargain shop so it may have been a playing display unit or a returned item idk. seen 2, heard of many others had same issue soooo..
yeah i think them fuggerz can glitch!

the popcaps are easy enough to remove from the pf, 2 pairs of wires to cut, power and scoring-triggering are very obvious. the screws that hold the unit to the pf are in half inch deep holes, easy to spot once you know that. disassembly fairly straightforward, screws for pin keepers, toggles to the solenoid button, one spring for all of it topside and the return spring on the solenoid itself. theres JUST room for a 5mm LED between the popcap cores and the thumper sleeve so be careful where drilling wire size holes for the LED legs to go through, lock them down and in with crazyglue. when reassembling look for trigger switch wires and gobs of hot glue inside the unit that might interfere with popcap action, I found that in friends H-vs-V and it worked lots better after clearing those things.
(pinsider MoSeS might have installed the fast-slow-fade-blink multicolor LED's I mailed him already lol, just maybe he's taken some how-to snapshots of the process?)

if they DO glitch and burn, I used a DC-DC optical (solid state) relay to make it glitchproof. (11 bucks at amazon)
3-4v LED power going to the trigger side, 24v direct from zizzle power plug with a 4-ohm 10w resistor inline to the high power side so it cant drain everything away from zizzle mainboard. downside is no more million points for every popcap hit, upside being it wont glitch and theyre active to help get the top rollthru targets to advance game mode.
I used magnet wire from a big 15v wall wart to hand rewind the popcap solenoid that'd burnt.. "stuff" happens.

HAD 3 deep blue LED strips at the apron until last night here, replaced one of them with a white and it was WAY too bright, it only took one current limiting resistor inline to drop it down to a good level not completely washing out the blue ones. I can see to play in a darkened room now, much nicer!

for H-vs-V just one 12v 30mm blue LED strip at the apron end looks GREAT (my friends machine), a used replacement mainboard had whisper quiet audio so I wired in (input mono) a cheepo Lepai 808 amp and a 6.5" speaker in the cab bottom cover, so when the sound is up the blue LED strip dims with the sound effects etc to make everything visually pop. much lighter-brighter pf doesnt need as much as very dark PotC. the popcap LED's, amp, and LED strip all powered by a 400ma wall-wart, lot less than the little amp might want but its very loud anyway, and its why the LED strip does the nice simple dimming-blinking action. it could be done with a good working stock zizzle but would probably need a line level pot or resistors before run into the amplifiers inputs.
the sound is actually pretty impressive, I'm really thinking to do it for my PotC.

his machine also got six 2" tall zizzlinger figurines, venom and mystique over their ramps mounted on Z-bent stainless wire for 1/8" ball clearance, and other marvel heroes outside orbits etc.. thinking to print city skyline graphics for inside walls instead of black will help the blue light bounce around in there better and look kinda appropriate too. if someone beats me to please share!

blondetall.. if you want slingshot graphics for H-vs-V (and the 3rd small island above right) I have em already. pick the ones you want, scale them up to 108% size, print-adhere, then cover with 2" mylar packaging tape. theyre various charachters on black backgrounds (took me hours lol), can e-mail the jpg files (or anyone else wanting em).

for that (pretty fun!) idea I'd think theyed want an iron core-post, might be bass speaker or subwoofer crossover coil are better candidate(s) for that.. or experiment with some magnet wire pirated from large wall-wart transformers.
the only precautions would be enough coil wraps it works without behaving like a short circuit, and dont hold it ON so long it'd begin to heat up and fail.

the ideas I'm cooking up (revealing secrets now dammit!) is a randomly active kicker in the left outlane to sometimes mirror the action of the ball launcher.. surprise! and a wire diverter gate for the right outlane to inlane that can be "earned" (without involving the zizzle controller board) which will only take a little cutting-bending-drilling to make a spot for that happening. I have a toy RC motorcycle steering unit that can run it from underside of the pf ez enuf.
all thats really needed to make them happen "randomly" is a few very light action SPDT switches added into various rollovers existent already. the gate would be obvious (you can see it open) and close after use, but the solenoid for a ball kicker without any indicator "did I roll over the 2-3 rollover switches successfully for it to be armed?" or "was one of those switches rolled over twice to disarm the mofo?".. THAT would keep it somewhat mysterious-exciting.
the right side gate could also be connected to the end of ball switch to automatically close it upon draining. open or closed could also (helped to) be triggered with the 2 standup targets, so if rollover were ready if could still need a hit to a standup target to arm it, or a rollover or standup "by mistake" making the thing close back up.. oops!
they can both happen with pretty simple switch wiring, and pretty standard pinball machine features too.

had some basic electronics schooling but still a rookie too.. sounds like something a large capacitor and a current limiting resistor could do. cap acting as battery, resistor to control discharge rate, and a small (100ma 12v?) wall wart taking its time to recharge the cap. it'd take some calculating for time active and time recharging, and simple circuit to the LED for a "ready" indicator.. very-very much like a camera flash unit, except its not blowing its whole load in an instant, and a camera flash likely hitting with much higher voltage. no need for a timer if the math for values are worked out right, it'd behave as planned. be a little careful playing with capacitors, they can discharge all at once to zap ya pretty hard.

naah.. theres not a lot of zizzle in forum search, people looking for zizzley stuff oughtta stumble into it easy enough.

thing about low current capacitor charging, the resistor can determine its current flow when discharging, how long active by cap's capacity, and how fast a recharge by its little power supply. it could be set up to run the magnet 1.5 seconds and take a full minute to be ready again or try too soon and see it be wimpy-limpy (cue nelson laugh).

as far as what current needed, depends on coil windings and field strength, likely it'll require a hole drilled through the pf for its steel core post to be at level and exposed. couple these might do ya, cheep enuf too:
http://www.amazon.com/Electromagnet-Solenoid-Electric-Mechanical-Experimental/dp/B00ENGU0/ref=sr_1_cc_2

I'd removed the post just above skillshot area, 3rd one up on left, to put between flippers. used a 6v battery's cap for the spring-terminal and lots of hot glue to lock it between the rails. I left the triangle near popcaps intact and put a black flipper band there instead of stock rubber, thicker-bouncier and helps keep ball in popcap area.

with 11 lbs of pull might not need to drill for those, wont know till you try tho.

couldda got 110lb ones cheaper (lmao) http://www.amazon.com/Sucked-Electric-Lifting-Electromagnet-50x27mm/dp/B00CFR1TX8/ref=pd_sim_hi_4

turn the thing into the black hole.. could pull some pretty crazy pranks with those too if you think about it (uh-oh).

thats the rubberband fix I'd mentioned some darn place.. not elegant but works really well! from inside underneath loop a couple rubberbands together, end at bottom of ball kicker arm, anchored to the box sides so they very lightly slightly pull the arms (left and right sides both). jackhammering oughtta be stopped. it doesnt need but about a gram or so worth of pull, just enough to barely make the slings bands push out 1/16-ish.

idk, I see what youre meaning but heatshrink might add friction, and might not last well.
those angled plastics do some sliding too at the points circled in pics.
the switches need to be close enough to react-trigger, but recoil triggering glitchy looking not good either. very light springs and fishing line would replace long thin rubberbands that are going to eventually fail, could be a long time before they do and easy cheap to replace anyhow. same rubberbandy idea from the topside under the plastics could work with one band between the two posts of the sling's face to be pulling the sling arm forward (same way), but then its removing the screws underneath to put them in, more hassle I'd think. not really much way of adjusting the switches positions there with how the plastics are molded.. so I'm ok with the simple rubberbands from the underside. IF the solenoid could be moved a teeny bit it could solve it easy enough too but... (toys, lol arrgghh).

sometimes a full pull stock can go up the left orbit, likely more often with a little creative shaving or filling to the ball launch lane's curve. fun when this happens, extra ball and a top rollthru twice by way of a popcap hitting it up-in.

just did the blue-thing-ring around the inside of the chest's pedestal with 4 LED's all aimed up (from outside-under it) about 30 degrees. it doesnt light the ramps much with the white 12v LED strip (and 2 blue) from the apron end, oh well. the single red LED from the side (inside box) aimed at the bottom cover right under the target indicators giving them a nice low red glow when theyre not lit blue. kinda neat when they're blinking dim red (solid) and bright blue.
more stuff to do to it yet, teach me to think anything is ever done...

arrrrg! zizzles can be sensitive. one EL-wire inverter was 1khz noise through the speakers, a different one is now silent. figured out what light colors I like best for 12v LED strips at the apron, 1 blue 1 white 1 yellow.. nice!
white brightening it all (1 200ohm resistor to tame it), blue having its reach further back, yellow helping the artwork of the lower really pop, the bronze medallion look more gold, and brightens up the copper plated ball too. hadnt got to wire diverter right and kicker left yet.. busier with other projects (boat!).

shame they didnt use arcade flipper buttons would have been easier, cheaper, LOTS more reliable too.
I'd only heard mark2 machines were a little improved.. then they quit! IMHO the flipper buttons are what knocked them out first, followed by popcap solenoid glitch-burn, then lack of parts and support.

cool lookin:
ebay.com link: PIRATES CARIBBEAN JACK SPARROW Logo Model Display Decor Ornament A379
mine has random blinking yellow LED's in its eyeball sockets.

as topper, skull is almost 3" wide 4" tall, with 6" swords crossed behind it. the yellow LED's I'd put in the eye sockets catch power from the slow-fast color changing LED's I'd put in the popcaps, with another 30-60 ohms resistance, so they only blink-flash randomly with peak pulses. the top 3 clear rollthru dividers also yellow LED'd parallel to the popcaps only very mildly dim-blink.

same extra wall wart feeding LED's is also trigger to the DC-DC relay powering the popcap solenoid that had glitched and burnt (board section too ouch). mentioned before only difference is no million points for every popcap hit, but not working didnt help for advancing modes-gameplay.

for playfield same seller has a small skull-sword dangle charm, just fits under skull ramp. have it dim backlit pink-blue and hooded white LED as spotlight. waiting on a little amplifier to add inline to the 8" speaker added in bottom, then filter some highs out for little kabooms, easy stuff.

more little zizzley fun, dropped in (ebay, 2 bucks) a TDA2030A mono amplifier (and 220uF 16v cap to cut highs from it) to the 8" 8-ohm 2w speaker I'd put into its bottom cover last year. it's pretty boomin' now! there is room for a 6-8" speaker just ahead of the standup target if the speaker isnt too thick. input for the amp taken directly off the back of the stock speaker then adjust the (tiny) amp's gain pot (with it fully turned up of course) for a good sound balance after soldering the capacitor across the speakers terminals. once set, the stock volume knob up front controls it all.

the power comes from a 12v 2A wall wart running all the added LED's, LED strips, EL-wire etc.
the TDA2030 -claims- 15w, but honest-clean is more like 4-5w before heating and distorting.
fully cranked up (maybe 2.5 or 3w as set) is just enough to start the glass rattling (yeah replaced the plexi with 1/8" glass here), not bad for 2 bucks an old speaker and a little time spent doing.