(Topic ID: 97211)

Added a Zizzle to the collection today.

By blondetall

10 years ago

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    There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 10 years ago

    I had an idea to mount a electromagnet over the right inlane and connecting it to a button on the side for a ghetto Magna-Save(tm). I'd run it off the 12v power supply that I'm using for the LED lighting, any idea of what I could use? I was thinking the coil from a speaker. Think it would work? Any precautions I should take hooking up a coil like this?

    #52 10 years ago

    for that (pretty fun!) idea I'd think theyed want an iron core-post, might be bass speaker or subwoofer crossover coil are better candidate(s) for that.. or experiment with some magnet wire pirated from large wall-wart transformers.
    the only precautions would be enough coil wraps it works without behaving like a short circuit, and dont hold it ON so long it'd begin to heat up and fail.

    the ideas I'm cooking up (revealing secrets now dammit!) is a randomly active kicker in the left outlane to sometimes mirror the action of the ball launcher.. surprise! and a wire diverter gate for the right outlane to inlane that can be "earned" (without involving the zizzle controller board) which will only take a little cutting-bending-drilling to make a spot for that happening. I have a toy RC motorcycle steering unit that can run it from underside of the pf ez enuf.
    all thats really needed to make them happen "randomly" is a few very light action SPDT switches added into various rollovers existent already. the gate would be obvious (you can see it open) and close after use, but the solenoid for a ball kicker without any indicator "did I roll over the 2-3 rollover switches successfully for it to be armed?" or "was one of those switches rolled over twice to disarm the mofo?".. THAT would keep it somewhat mysterious-exciting.
    the right side gate could also be connected to the end of ball switch to automatically close it upon draining. open or closed could also (helped to) be triggered with the 2 standup targets, so if rollover were ready if could still need a hit to a standup target to arm it, or a rollover or standup "by mistake" making the thing close back up.. oops!
    they can both happen with pretty simple switch wiring, and pretty standard pinball machine features too.

    #53 10 years ago

    Maybe I could make a simple circuit where the magnasave was on a timer so you power on the magnet and an LED light up letting you know that magnasave is ready, when you push the button the magnet activates for 5 seconds and then waits 30 seconds for it to be available again. Doesn't seem like it would be that hard, but I know next to nothing about creating a circuit that would do it.

    #54 10 years ago

    had some basic electronics schooling but still a rookie too.. sounds like something a large capacitor and a current limiting resistor could do. cap acting as battery, resistor to control discharge rate, and a small (100ma 12v?) wall wart taking its time to recharge the cap. it'd take some calculating for time active and time recharging, and simple circuit to the LED for a "ready" indicator.. very-very much like a camera flash unit, except its not blowing its whole load in an instant, and a camera flash likely hitting with much higher voltage. no need for a timer if the math for values are worked out right, it'd behave as planned. be a little careful playing with capacitors, they can discharge all at once to zap ya pretty hard.

    #55 10 years ago

    You don't think 12v at 1 or 2 amps would be enough for the magnet to hold the ball? I was just thinking of having it on a timer with a MOFSET or relay or something.

    The timer would be more for gameplay purposes so you couldn't just sit there and hold the button to keep the ball from draining. I could even have the LED flash when the magnet is active.

    This will be a future add on because I need to get this thing done by Sunday night, His birthday is Monday.

    I've actually put a few of the more cosmetic mods off so him and I can work on them together after I give it to him. He's always interested when I remove the glass on the BK2K and is always peeking inside the coin door to get a look at the underside of the playfield.

    Oh damn, I just remembered I have an old coin mech from a project long ago, lol, I should make the Zizzle into a piggy bank haha

    Didn't get much done last night, mostly fitting the flipper buttons and testing some lights, Tonight and tomorrow should be when all the work gets done.

    Think this thread should be in the Mods forum?

    #56 10 years ago

    naah.. theres not a lot of zizzle in forum search, people looking for zizzley stuff oughtta stumble into it easy enough.

    thing about low current capacitor charging, the resistor can determine its current flow when discharging, how long active by cap's capacity, and how fast a recharge by its little power supply. it could be set up to run the magnet 1.5 seconds and take a full minute to be ready again or try too soon and see it be wimpy-limpy (cue nelson laugh).

    as far as what current needed, depends on coil windings and field strength, likely it'll require a hole drilled through the pf for its steel core post to be at level and exposed. couple these might do ya, cheep enuf too:

    #57 10 years ago

    My BK2K doesn't come through the playfield, though I wish it did, the ball does a number on the playfield and has worn a hold in the magnasave decal.

    I don't have a problem drilling thru the playfield.

    Hey, when you removed the post by the bumpers, what did you use to fill in the hole in the playfield?

    #58 10 years ago

    I'd removed the post just above skillshot area, 3rd one up on left, to put between flippers. used a 6v battery's cap for the spring-terminal and lots of hot glue to lock it between the rails. I left the triangle near popcaps intact and put a black flipper band there instead of stock rubber, thicker-bouncier and helps keep ball in popcap area.

    with 11 lbs of pull might not need to drill for those, wont know till you try tho.

    #59 10 years ago

    I removed the right most post in that triangle in front of the pop bumpers, the shot seemed to narrow for a kids game. Almost looks like the plug from the end of a Bic pen would fit in the hole. I'll likely make a wooden dowel and glue it in the old hole.

    I looked at the underside and it appears that the flippers could me moved closer together but that will take a bunch of work so I'm just going to use the peg I took out.

    I didn't think 11lbs would be enough so I got the 55lb one

    I can always put a resistor inline to adjust the pull if it's pulling the ball from the other side of the playfield along with all the screws lol.

    I'm going to do some tests with the 12 power to see if it gets warm or anything if it's left on, If there aren't any power or heat issues I'm just going to connect it to a button on the side.

    #60 10 years ago

    couldda got 110lb ones cheaper (lmao) http://www.amazon.com/Sucked-Electric-Lifting-Electromagnet-50x27mm/dp/B00CFR1TX8/ref=pd_sim_hi_4

    turn the thing into the black hole.. could pull some pretty crazy pranks with those too if you think about it (uh-oh).

    #61 10 years ago

    The good thing about Zizzle pins is that if you don't like the theme its an easy retheme project

    #62 9 years ago

    Happy Birthday lil guy

    I didn't get all the stuff done that I wanted to before giving it to him, but it works out OK because he's into working on it with me, we added a couple things last night. The game played great all evening but then the slings started firing over and over, I think it's just some bounceback, might need to adjust a switch.

    He loved it, he even cleaned his room so we could put it in there, he said he wants to start a collection lol.

    Here's some pics I took, hard to see with the "glass" on. I need to move some of the lights around, but all and all, a pretty good pin for under $100 if you're willing to put the work into it. I'd never pay more than $50 for a used one though, they really are a mess out of the box, I don't understand why you would make a pinball machine intended for kids so damn hard to play out of the box. The flippers are way to far apart, especially with the smaller pinball.

    Up next, MagnaSave!


    #63 9 years ago

    thats the rubberband fix I'd mentioned some darn place.. not elegant but works really well! from inside underneath loop a couple rubberbands together, end at bottom of ball kicker arm, anchored to the box sides so they very lightly slightly pull the arms (left and right sides both). jackhammering oughtta be stopped. it doesnt need but about a gram or so worth of pull, just enough to barely make the slings bands push out 1/16-ish.

    #64 9 years ago

    I was able to fix it with the rubberbands, it works pretty good as a temporary fix. I think the problem is there needs to be a small spacer between the actuating arms and the 'hammer' (not sure what the part is called that pushes the sling out). I was thinking some heat shrink around end might do the trick. The next time I get in there I'll try it and let you know.

    #65 9 years ago

    idk, I see what youre meaning but heatshrink might add friction, and might not last well.
    those angled plastics do some sliding too at the points circled in pics.
    the switches need to be close enough to react-trigger, but recoil triggering glitchy looking not good either. very light springs and fishing line would replace long thin rubberbands that are going to eventually fail, could be a long time before they do and easy cheap to replace anyhow. same rubberbandy idea from the topside under the plastics could work with one band between the two posts of the sling's face to be pulling the sling arm forward (same way), but then its removing the screws underneath to put them in, more hassle I'd think. not really much way of adjusting the switches positions there with how the plastics are molded.. so I'm ok with the simple rubberbands from the underside. IF the solenoid could be moved a teeny bit it could solve it easy enough too but... (toys, lol arrgghh).

    #66 9 years ago

    Glad I found this forum . Picked up a pirates of the Caribbean last week for $40 . Changed out the flipper switches , works great . added a few skulls a ship wheel and added a ramp for the ball to plunge to the top . took 2 post out up top by the bumpers and put 1 of them where the ball use to go on to the play field. Here is 2 pics of the ramp .. I painted it black so I put a piece of paper over it so you can see what I did ..Works great .....Would like to add a larger lcd display not sure if this can be done. Has anyone done this .ramp.jpgramp.jpgramp3.jpgramp3.jpg

    #67 9 years ago

    That looks great, I like the ramp, where does the ball come out? Can you post a pic of the upper right corner? I was "toying" with the idea of moving the spinner forward and having the ball launch to the top.

    That's the fun thing about these pins, they are so cheap you can mod the crap out of them and not worry about losing your investment.

    You can also move the ball guide above cannibal isle to be in front of the post, you just drill a small hole for it.
    EDIT: Sorry for the crappy pic, you can see the ball guide to the top right. EDIT2: Added close up view



    #68 9 years ago

    Depends on how hard u pull the plunger. It will go all the way around to the othe side on a full pull or drop down in the spin lane with a light pull. Will take pic later tonite

    #69 9 years ago

    sometimes a full pull stock can go up the left orbit, likely more often with a little creative shaving or filling to the ball launch lane's curve. fun when this happens, extra ball and a top rollthru twice by way of a popcap hitting it up-in.

    #70 9 years ago

    Found a cork board and sword at a garage sale today for $2 . Cut it down to size so it fits inside the topper added some rope. Not sure if I will keep the sword on top . Still trying to figure out if I can replace the lcd display with a larger one ...topper.jpgtopper.jpgtopper2.jpgtopper2.jpg

    #71 9 years ago

    just did the blue-thing-ring around the inside of the chest's pedestal with 4 LED's all aimed up (from outside-under it) about 30 degrees. it doesnt light the ramps much with the white 12v LED strip (and 2 blue) from the apron end, oh well. the single red LED from the side (inside box) aimed at the bottom cover right under the target indicators giving them a nice low red glow when theyre not lit blue. kinda neat when they're blinking dim red (solid) and bright blue.
    more stuff to do to it yet, teach me to think anything is ever done...

    #72 9 years ago

    The "magnasave" appears to be a flop. The magnet doesn't have enough power to have any effect on the ball through the playfield but it does have enough power to randomly trigger switches all over the playfield when you activate it. Back to the drawing board.

    #73 9 years ago

    arrrrg! zizzles can be sensitive. one EL-wire inverter was 1khz noise through the speakers, a different one is now silent. figured out what light colors I like best for 12v LED strips at the apron, 1 blue 1 white 1 yellow.. nice!
    white brightening it all (1 200ohm resistor to tame it), blue having its reach further back, yellow helping the artwork of the lower really pop, the bronze medallion look more gold, and brightens up the copper plated ball too. hadnt got to wire diverter right and kicker left yet.. busier with other projects (boat!).

    3 months later
    #74 9 years ago

    Did anyone find replacement slingshot rubbers? I need these to stop the constant hammering.

    #75 9 years ago

    It's not the rubbers, it's the switches bouncing back

    If you remove the bottom you can take a skinny rubber band and loop one end around the switch and tack the other end to the side of the game with a thumbtack, just enough to keep a little tension on it and it will stop doing it. Both of those slings are operated by the same coil through a Rube Goldberg designed linkage. Once you pull the bottom off and see how it works you'll understand.

    EDIT: Here's a pic of the mechanism.

    The parts you need to attach the rubber band to are on the top of the playfield under the slingshot plastics but the rubber band will run under the playfield and attach to the wood on the side that the bottom panel screws into.

    // Error: Image 263492 not found //

    Helpfull tip, when you are removing the bottom, set the pin on a table on it's back with the legs on, then when you remove the bottom panel, you can fold it down and it will rest between the back legs and makes working under the playfield easier.

    // Error: Image 263492 not found //

    Zizzlemeplease suggested the rubber bands a while back and I've been using it fine with no problems.

    #76 9 years ago

    Thanks for the info! Wish I would have checked this a little sooner. I ended up just pushing the plastic housings holding the contacts slightly further away from the slingshot connector. It takes a little more force to activate them, but they only go once. If I have any more issues I will definitely give your advice a try, it sounds like it would work great. It's ironic that I had a rubber band around them, and was looking for something to attach it to. Never even thought about using a tack! Thanks again!

    #77 9 years ago

    I myself just used a screw from one of the components, when I told zizzlemeplease he mentioned the tac idea, since there is almost no tension, the tac should work fine. Glad you got it working, they are fun little machines, I wish they had kept refining and producing one, there wasn't a great market for them when they came out, but now I think they would be a good seller. I like the smaller form factor.

    #78 9 years ago

    shame they didnt use arcade flipper buttons would have been easier, cheaper, LOTS more reliable too.
    I'd only heard mark2 machines were a little improved.. then they quit! IMHO the flipper buttons are what knocked them out first, followed by popcap solenoid glitch-burn, then lack of parts and support.

    #79 9 years ago

    I had a POTC zizzle, traded it for a gumball machine.

    2 weeks later
    #80 9 years ago

    cool lookin:
    ebay.com link: PIRATES CARIBBEAN JACK SPARROW Logo Model Display Decor Ornament A379
    mine has random blinking yellow LED's in its eyeball sockets.

    #81 9 years ago

    That's pretty cool.Did you put it on the playfield or as a topper?

    #82 9 years ago

    as topper, skull is almost 3" wide 4" tall, with 6" swords crossed behind it. the yellow LED's I'd put in the eye sockets catch power from the slow-fast color changing LED's I'd put in the popcaps, with another 30-60 ohms resistance, so they only blink-flash randomly with peak pulses. the top 3 clear rollthru dividers also yellow LED'd parallel to the popcaps only very mildly dim-blink.

    same extra wall wart feeding LED's is also trigger to the DC-DC relay powering the popcap solenoid that had glitched and burnt (board section too ouch). mentioned before only difference is no million points for every popcap hit, but not working didnt help for advancing modes-gameplay.

    for playfield same seller has a small skull-sword dangle charm, just fits under skull ramp. have it dim backlit pink-blue and hooded white LED as spotlight. waiting on a little amplifier to add inline to the 8" speaker added in bottom, then filter some highs out for little kabooms, easy stuff.

    2 weeks later
    #83 9 years ago

    more little zizzley fun, dropped in (ebay, 2 bucks) a TDA2030A mono amplifier (and 220uF 16v cap to cut highs from it) to the 8" 8-ohm 2w speaker I'd put into its bottom cover last year. it's pretty boomin' now! there is room for a 6-8" speaker just ahead of the standup target if the speaker isnt too thick. input for the amp taken directly off the back of the stock speaker then adjust the (tiny) amp's gain pot (with it fully turned up of course) for a good sound balance after soldering the capacitor across the speakers terminals. once set, the stock volume knob up front controls it all.

    the power comes from a 12v 2A wall wart running all the added LED's, LED strips, EL-wire etc.
    the TDA2030 -claims- 15w, but honest-clean is more like 4-5w before heating and distorting.
    fully cranked up (maybe 2.5 or 3w as set) is just enough to start the glass rattling (yeah replaced the plexi with 1/8" glass here), not bad for 2 bucks an old speaker and a little time spent doing.

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